Fall Bay Buttress, King Wall, Giants Cave, Devils

Climbs 98 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude Tidal – Faces S

Crag features
A collection of buttresses spread over some distance - the OS ref is a guide. Routes up to 45m including (in Giants Cave) The Divine Guiding Light, a huge roof traverse exiting a blowhole - soft E7? More accessible are Osiris (VS 4c) and Seth (sandbag E1 5b). Some loose rock: choose routes with care. Generally a wonderful venue; often busy.

Access notes
Tidal in some parts, depending on the buttress.

From Rhossili car park (SS 415 881). About 20 minutes' walk.

Guidebooks
Gower Rock (2012), Gower & SE Wales (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 KING WALL 
2NiordS
3SkadiS
4LlethridHS 4a
5FriggVS 4b *
6BolderVS 4b *
7BeowulfVS 4b
8RagnarokHS 4a **
9Trying LinesVS 4c
10SweynHS 4b
11GefionHS 4b
12King RouteS
13FreyaHS 4a
14ValkyrieVS 5a
15VikHS 4b
16Cleft cornerS 4a
17Great CleftD
18WulstS
19VanirVS 4c
20BalderVS 5a
21LokiHS
22TyrS 4a
23FafnirS 4a
24AmbleVD
25PyttS
26VorderS 4a
27ThorS 4a
28OdinVS 4b
29ValhallaHVS 4c
30Needle CrackVS 4b **
31Joe Says It's Cool (King Wall)E2 5c *
32NimbusS 4c
33GenesisHD
34VarusM
35King Wall GirdleVS 4c
 LEWES CASTLE (A.K.A. FALL BAY BUTRESS) 
37Fall Bay GirdleVS 4c, 4b **
38BucketHVS 5b
39KetHVS 5a
40MandrakeHVS 5b
41EclipseE1 5c
42SeketE1 5b
43Monkey See And Monkey DoE4 6a *
44Reptiles And SamuraiE4 6a *
45Welsh WitchE3 6a
46IsisHVS 5a ***
47HorusHVS 5a *
48RheaHVS 5a **
49Lazy Sunday AfternoonE2 5b ***
50Frantic Sunday MorningE2 5c
51OsirisVS 4c ***
52SethE1 5c ***
53Seth / Lazy Sunday Afternoon CombinationE2 5c ***
54HorsisHVS 5a *
55RaHVS 5a
56FalloutVS 4b
57South East DiedreHVS 5a
58Continuity CornerHVS 5a
59GstelliS
60GethsemaneS 4a **
61EdenVS 4c
62The BottleVS 4b *
63The Bottle (Direct Start Variant)HVS 5b
64Cave CracksE2 5c *
65Cave Cracks DirectE3 5c
66Age before beautyE1 5a
67South West DiedreHVS 5a **
68South West Diedre VariantVS 4c
69InstigatorHVS 5a
70CombinationVS **
71South East AreteE3 5c *
72RhyddHVS 4c
73JT Where Is HeHVS 5a
 GIANT'S CAVE 
75Flake CornerVD
76SlightHVS 4c
77Red AdmiralE3 6a *
78ErrantE2 5c
79ThrillerE4 6a **
80The Divine Guiding LightE6 6b ***
81Charlie Don't SurfE4 6a *
82Madame ButterflyE5 6b **
83Nick'dE2 5b *
84ShannaraHS 4a
85EaseM
86Undercut AreteV2 5b/5c *
87FlakeHS
 DEVIL'S TRUCK AREA 
89LytelS
90LeggeS 4a
91The NoseHS 4a *
92NervusVS 4c
93TransitHS 4b
94AschenHVS 4c *
95Gull CornerVS 4b
96White LimeD
97The RazorD
98High ChimneyS 4a
99Right South WallS
 OBSOLETE LINES 
101South-East PillarHVS 5a **
102Massive Attack *VS 4b **
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer iang28

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Someone needs to take this crag off the database. Its covered under fall bay butress
chris wyatt - 12/Mar/07
Have to agree with comments on the looseness of Combination - says he, nursing a broken ankle!
gbuchanan - 05/Jul/06
Great climbing on this excellent crag, but I took a fall off of Combination (VS 4b)where there was a large amount of very big and very loose rock. Standing on top of the buttress near the base, my (sober) friend said the whole thing was shifting under my weight! I either went well off route, or someone needs to look at this route and judge how safe & solid the rock is.
nickle - 18/Jul/05
A great climbing experience if you geta chance do osiris it must be one of the best routes on the crag a treverse below the overhang to finish just passed. give it a bash if your there worth while
will.s - 11/Dec/03
we got a group to ab off fall bay buttress and they loved as you can see from above and i really enjoyed watching them do we got some great snaps which i will put on. well done all for doing it
will - 11/Dec/03
We abseiled down Fall bay butress last week, it was scary but i did it and it was only my second time out. It looked higher to me cos im tiny. There was birds flying underneath us. The surfers looked like dots your a whimp if you dont do it!
terri - 16/Oct/03
Best crag on the Gower at the VS - E2 grade, no tides!
phil leng - 08/Sep/03
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 03/May/2013
ads.ukclimbing.com

Photo Gallery

Directory

Find Listings near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Cardiff, CARDIFF
Dedicated centre.
"2,000 square meters of climbing walls. Over 100 lead climbing lines. Dedicated bouldering area, including bouldering cave. Instruction and climbing activities for all ages and..."
bouldersuk.com