Fall Bay Buttress, King Wall, Giants Cave, Devils

Climbs 98 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude Tidal – Faces S

Crag features
A collection of buttresses spread over some distance - the OS ref is a guide. Routes up to 45m including (in Giants Cave) The Divine Guiding Light, a huge roof traverse exiting a blowhole - soft E7? More accessible are Osiris (VS 4c) and Seth (sandbag E1 5b). Some loose rock: choose routes with care. Generally a wonderful venue; often busy.

Access notes
Tidal in some parts, depending on the buttress.

From Rhossili car park (SS 415 881). About 20 minutes' walk.

Guidebooks
Gower Rock (2012), Gower & SE Wales (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 KING WALL  
2NiordS 17
3SkadiS 6
4LlethridHS 4a 14
5FriggVS 4b *59
6BolderVS 4b *17
7BeowulfVS 4b 33
8Beowulf's little mistressE1 5c 2
9RagnarokHS 4a **164
10Trying LinesVS 4c 8
11SweynHS 4b 43
12GefionHS 4b 5
13King RouteS 100
14FreyaHS 4a 37
15ValkyrieVS 5a 32
16VikHS 4b 29
17Cleft cornerS 4a 53
18Great CleftD 116
19WulstS 9
20VanirVS 4c 54
21BalderVS 5a 102
22LokiHS 27
23TyrS 4a 18
24FafnirS 4a 231
25AmbleVD 143
26PyttS 38
27VorderS 4a 57
28ThorS 4a 39
29OdinVS 4b 32
30ValhallaHVS 4c 17
31Needle CrackVS 4b **102
32Joe Says It's Cool (King Wall)E2 5c *9
33NimbusS 4c 20
34GenesisHD 23
35VarusM 8
36King Wall GirdleVS 4c 3
 LEWES CASTLE (A.K.A. FALL BAY BUTRESS)  
38Fall Bay GirdleVS 4c, 4b **11
39BucketHVS 5b 1
40KetHVS 5a 16
41MandrakeHVS 5b 5
42EclipseE1 5c 1
43SeketE1 5b 16
44Monkey See And Monkey DoE4 6a *4
45Reptiles And SamuraiE4 6a *6
46Welsh WitchE3 6a 2
47IsisHVS 5a ***271
48HorusHVS 5a *36
49RheaHVS 5a **84
50Lazy Sunday AfternoonE2 5b ***48
51Frantic Sunday MorningE2 5c 3
52OsirisVS 4c ***446
53SethE1 5c ***82
54Seth / Lazy Sunday Afternoon CombinationE2 5c ***9
55HorsisHVS 5a *58
56RaHVS 5a 8
57FalloutVS 4b 8
58South East DiedreHVS 5a 15
59Continuity CornerHVS 5a 1
60GstelliS 75
61GethsemaneS 4a **435
62EdenVS 4c 226
63The BottleVS 4b *179
64The Bottle (Direct Start Variant)HVS 5b 18
65Cave CracksE2 5c *7
66Cave Cracks DirectE3 5c 3
67Age before beautyE1 5a 1
68South West DiedreHVS 5a **152
69South West Diedre VariantVS 4c 67
70InstigatorHVS 5a 41
71CombinationVS **57
72South East AreteE3 5c *3
73RhyddHVS 4c 3
74JT Where Is HeHVS 5a 1
 GIANT'S CAVE  
76Flake CornerVD 6
77SlightHVS 4c 6
78Red AdmiralE3 6a *2
79ErrantE2 5c 14
80ThrillerE4 6a **2
81The Divine Guiding LightE6 6b ***1
82Charlie Don't SurfE4 6a *18
83Madame ButterflyE5 6b **8
84Nick'dE2 5b *1
85ShannaraHS 4a 13
86EaseM 1
87Undercut AreteV2 5b/5c *1
88FlakeHS 1
 DEVIL'S TRUCK AREA  
90LytelS 42
91LeggeS 4a 43
92The NoseHS 4a *81
93NervusVS 4c 23
94TransitHS 4b 31
95AschenHVS 4c *20
96Gull CornerVS 4b 21
97White LimeD 22
98The RazorD 9
99High ChimneyS 4a 6
100Right South WallS 4
 OBSOLETE LINES  
102South-East PillarHVS 5a **3
103Massive Attack *VS 4b **2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer iang28

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Someone needs to take this crag off the database. Its covered under fall bay butress
chris wyatt - 12/Mar/07
Have to agree with comments on the looseness of Combination - says he, nursing a broken ankle!
gbuchanan - 05/Jul/06
Great climbing on this excellent crag, but I took a fall off of Combination (VS 4b)where there was a large amount of very big and very loose rock. Standing on top of the buttress near the base, my (sober) friend said the whole thing was shifting under my weight! I either went well off route, or someone needs to look at this route and judge how safe & solid the rock is.
nickle - 18/Jul/05
A great climbing experience if you geta chance do osiris it must be one of the best routes on the crag a treverse below the overhang to finish just passed. give it a bash if your there worth while
will.s - 11/Dec/03
we got a group to ab off fall bay buttress and they loved as you can see from above and i really enjoyed watching them do we got some great snaps which i will put on. well done all for doing it
will - 11/Dec/03
We abseiled down Fall bay butress last week, it was scary but i did it and it was only my second time out. It looked higher to me cos im tiny. There was birds flying underneath us. The surfers looked like dots your a whimp if you dont do it!
terri - 16/Oct/03
Best crag on the Gower at the VS - E2 grade, no tides!
phil leng - 08/Sep/03