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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SS 414873 (OS Landranger #159)

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These details were last updated on 03/May/2013

Fall Bay Buttress, King Wall, Giants Cave, Devils

Swansea, WALES

Climbs 98 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude Tidal – Faces S

Crag features
A collection of buttresses spread over some distance - the OS ref is a guide. Routes up to 45m including (in Giants Cave) The Divine Guiding Light, a huge roof traverse exiting a blowhole - soft E7? More accessible are Osiris (VS 4c) and Seth (sandbag E1 5b). Some loose rock: choose routes with care. Generally a wonderful venue; often busy.

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Guidebooks
Gower Rock (2012), Gower & SE Wales (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 KING WALL  
2NiordS 15
3SkadiS 6
4LlethridHS 4a 9
5FriggVS 4b *44
6BolderVS 4b *13
7BeowulfVS 4b 30
8RagnarokHS 4a **119
9Trying LinesVS 4c 7
10SweynHS 4b 25
11King RouteS 57
12FreyaHS 4a 30
13ValkyrieVS 5a 25
14VikHS 4b 24
15Cleft cornerS 4a 47
16Great CleftD 86
17WulstS 9
18VanirVS 4c 45
19BalderVS 5a 75
20LokiHS 18
21TyrS 4a 15
22FafnirS 4a 176
23AmbleVD 103
24PyttS 21
25VorderS 4a 51
26thorS 4a 35
27OdinVS 4b 23
28ValhallaHVS 4c 11
29Needle CrackVS 4b **77
30Joe Says It's Cool (King Wall)E2 5c *7
31NimbusS 4c 16
32GenesisHD 21
33VarusM 7
34King Wall GirdleVS 4c 3
 LEWES CASTLE (A.K.A. FALL BAY BUTRESS)  
36Fall Bay GirdleVS 4c, 4b **9
37BucketHVS 5b 1
38KetHVS 5a 12
39MandrakeHVS 5b 5
40SeketE1 5b 15
41Monkey See And Monkey DoE4 6a *4
42Reptiles And SamuraiE4 6a *5
43Welsh WitchE3 6a 2
44IsisHVS 5a ***233
45HorusHVS 5a *18
46RheaHVS 5a **67
47Lazy Sunday AfternoonE2 5b ***42
48Frantic Sunday MorningE2 5c 3
49OsirisVS 4c ***358
50SethE1 5c ***67
51Seth / Lazy Sunday Afternoon CombinationE2 5c ***9
52HorsisHVS 5a *43
 Climb nameGradex
53RaHVS 5a 6
54FalloutVS 4b 7
55South East DiedreHVS 5a 14
56Continuity CornerHVS 5a 1
57GstelliS 64
58GethesemaneS 4a **320
59EdenVS 4c 162
60The BottleVS 4b *135
61The Bottle (Direct Start Variant)HVS 5b 18
62Cave CracksE2 5c *1
63Cave Cracks DirectE3 5c 2
64South West DiedreHVS 5a **115
65South West Diedre VariantVS 4c 56
66InstigatorHVS 5a 28
67CombinationVS **50
68RhyddHVS 4c 2
69JT Where Is HeHVS 5a 1
 GIANT'S CAVE  
71Flake CornerVD 6
72SlightHVS 4c 5
73Red AdmiralE3 6a *1
74ErrantE2 5c 9
75ThrillerE4 6a **1
76Charlie Don't SurfE4 6a *9
77ShannaraHS 4a 2
78Undercut AreteV2 5b/5c *1
 DEVIL'S TRUCK AREA  
80LytelS 35
81LeggeS 4a 37
82The NoseHS 4a *69
83NervusVS 4c 20
84TransitHS 4b 25
85AschenHVS 4c *17
86Gull CornerVS 4b 19
87White LimeD 19
88The RazorD 7
89High ChimneyS 4a 6
90Right South WallS 4
 OBSOLETE LINES  
92South-East PillarHVS 5a **1
93GefionHS 4b 3
94Crack 1: Box canyon *S  
95Crack 2: Box canyon *S  
96Gethsemane *S 4a **25
97The Divine Guiding Light *E7  
98Eclipse *E1 5c 1
99Betst *D 1
100Flake *HS  
101Massive Attack *VS 4b **1
102Divider *VD 1
103South East Arete *E3 5c *2

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Tidal in some parts, depending on the buttress.

From Rhossili car park (SS 415 881). About 20 minutes' walk.

Classifieds
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer iang28 ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Someone needs to take this crag off the database. Its covered under fall bay butress
chris wyatt - 12/Mar/07

Have to agree with comments on the looseness of Combination - says he, nursing a broken ankle!
gbuchanan - 05/Jul/06

Great climbing on this excellent crag, but I took a fall off of Combination (VS 4b)where there was a large amount of very big and very loose rock. Standing on top of the buttress near the base, my (sober) friend said the whole thing was shifting under my weight! I either went well off route, or someone needs to look at this route and judge how safe & solid the rock is.
nickle - 18/Jul/05

A great climbing experience if you geta chance do osiris it must be one of the best routes on the crag a treverse below the overhang to finish just passed. give it a bash if your there worth while
will.s - 11/Dec/03

we got a group to ab off fall bay buttress and they loved as you can see from above and i really enjoyed watching them do we got some great snaps which i will put on. well done all for doing it
will - 11/Dec/03

We abseiled down Fall bay butress last week, it was scary but i did it and it was only my second time out. It looked higher to me cos im tiny. There was birds flying underneath us. The surfers looked like dots your a whimp if you dont do it!
terri - 16/Oct/03

Best crag on the Gower at the VS - E2 grade, no tides!
phil leng - 08/Sep/03