Fall Bay Buttress, King Wall, Giants Cave, Devils

Climbs 98 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features

A collection of buttresses spread over some distance - the OS ref is a guide. Routes up to 45m including (in Giants Cave) The Divine Guiding Light, a huge roof traverse exiting a blowhole - soft E7? More accessible are Osiris (VS 4c) and Seth (sandbag E1 5b). Some loose rock: choose routes with care. Generally a wonderful venue; often busy.

Approach notes

Tidal in some parts, depending on the buttress.

From Rhossili car park (SS 415 881). About 20 minutes' walk.

Access notes

Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August. 2015. The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged!  The routes affected are also pretty poor!

All other routes on the butress are unaffected.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Gower Rock (2012), Gower & SE Wales (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2NiordS 19
3SkadiS 8
4LlethridHS 4a 15
5FriggVS 4b *64
6BolderVS 4b *17
7BeowulfVS 4b 33
8Beowulf's little mistressE1 5c 2
9RagnarokHS 4a **169
10Trying LinesVS 4c 8
11SweynHS 4b 47
12GefionHS 4b 6
13King RouteS 108
14FreyaHS 4a 38
15ValkyrieVS 5a 33
16VikHS 4b 30
17Cleft cornerS 4a 54
18Great CleftD 124
19WulstS 9
20VanirVS 4c 54
21BalderVS 5a 113
22LokiHS 29
23TyrS 4a 18
24FafnirS 4a 242
25AmbleVD 154
26PyttS 42
27VorderS 4a 60
28ThorS 4a 39
29OdinVS 4b 32
30ValhallaHVS 4c 17
31Needle CrackVS 4b **110
32Joe Says It's Cool (King Wall)E2 5c *9
33NimbusS 4c 20
34GenesisHD 23
35VarusM 8
36King Wall GirdleVS 4c 3
38Fall Bay GirdleVS 4c, 4b **11
39BucketHVS 5b 1
40KetHVS 5a 16
41MandrakeHVS 5b 5
42EclipseE1 5c 1
43SeketE1 5b 17
44Monkey See And Monkey DoE4 6a *4
45Reptiles And SamuraiE4 6a *6
46Welsh WitchE3 6a 2
47IsisHVS 5a ***293
48HorusHVS 5a *39
49RheaHVS 5a **87
50Lazy Sunday AfternoonE2 5b ***51
51Frantic Sunday MorningE2 5c 3
52OsirisVS 4c ***488
53SethE1 5c ***86
54Seth / Lazy Sunday Afternoon CombinationE2 5c ***10
55HorsisHVS 5a *66
56RaHVS 5a 8
57FalloutVS 4b 8
58South East DiedreHVS 5a 15
59Continuity CornerHVS 5a 1
60GstelliS 76
61GethsemaneS 4a **460
62EdenVS 4c 246
63The BottleVS 4b *198
64The Bottle (Direct Start Variant)HVS 5b 18
65Cave CracksE2 5c *7
66Cave Cracks DirectE3 5c 3
67Age before beautyE1 5a 1
68South West DiedreHVS 5a **167
69South West Diedre VariantVS 4c 70
70InstigatorHVS 5a 52
71CombinationVS **62
72South East AreteE3 5c *3
73RhyddHVS 4c 3
74JT Where Is HeHVS 5a 1
76Flake CornerVD 6
77SlightHVS 4c 6
78Red AdmiralE3 6a *2
79ErrantE2 5c 15
80ThrillerE4 6a **2
81The Divine Guiding LightE6 6b ***1
82Charlie Don't SurfE4 6a *18
83Madame ButterflyE5 6b **8
84Nick'dE2 5b *2
85ShannaraHS 4a 18
86EaseM 2
87Undercut AreteV2 5b/5c *1
88FlakeHS 2
90LytelS 44
91LeggeS 4a 46
92The NoseHS 4a *84
93NervusVS 4c 26
94TransitHS 4b 31
95AschenHVS 4c *22
96Gull CornerVS 4b 21
97White LimeD 23
98The RazorD 10
99High ChimneyS 4a 6
100Right South WallS 4
102South-East PillarHVS 5a **3
103Massive AttackVS 4b **2
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Someone needs to take this crag off the database. Its covered under fall bay butress
chris wyatt - 12/Mar/07
Have to agree with comments on the looseness of Combination - says he, nursing a broken ankle!
gbuchanan - 05/Jul/06
Great climbing on this excellent crag, but I took a fall off of Combination (VS 4b)where there was a large amount of very big and very loose rock. Standing on top of the buttress near the base, my (sober) friend said the whole thing was shifting under my weight! I either went well off route, or someone needs to look at this route and judge how safe & solid the rock is.
nickle - 18/Jul/05
A great climbing experience if you geta chance do osiris it must be one of the best routes on the crag a treverse below the overhang to finish just passed. give it a bash if your there worth while
will.s - 11/Dec/03
we got a group to ab off fall bay buttress and they loved as you can see from above and i really enjoyed watching them do we got some great snaps which i will put on. well done all for doing it
will - 11/Dec/03
We abseiled down Fall bay butress last week, it was scary but i did it and it was only my second time out. It looked higher to me cos im tiny. There was birds flying underneath us. The surfers looked like dots your a whimp if you dont do it!
terri - 16/Oct/03
Best crag on the Gower at the VS - E2 grade, no tides!
phil leng - 08/Sep/03