Fall Bay Buttress, King Wall, Giants Cave, Devils

Climbs 98 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude Tidal – Faces S

Crag features
A collection of buttresses spread over some distance - the OS ref is a guide. Routes up to 45m including (in Giants Cave) The Divine Guiding Light, a huge roof traverse exiting a blowhole - soft E7? More accessible are Osiris (VS 4c) and Seth (sandbag E1 5b). Some loose rock: choose routes with care. Generally a wonderful venue; often busy.

Access notes
Tidal in some parts, depending on the buttress.

From Rhossili car park (SS 415 881). About 20 minutes' walk.

Guidebooks
Gower Rock (2012), Gower & SE Wales (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 KING WALL  
2NiordS 17
3SkadiS 6
4LlethridHS 4a 13
5FriggVS 4b *57
6BolderVS 4b *16
7BeowulfVS 4b 32
8RagnarokHS 4a **156
9Trying LinesVS 4c 7
10SweynHS 4b 40
11GefionHS 4b 5
12King RouteS 89
13FreyaHS 4a 35
14ValkyrieVS 5a 31
15VikHS 4b 29
16Cleft cornerS 4a 53
17Great CleftD 106
18WulstS 9
19VanirVS 4c 51
20BalderVS 5a 97
21LokiHS 27
22TyrS 4a 18
23FafnirS 4a 213
24AmbleVD 132
25PyttS 32
26VorderS 4a 54
27ThorS 4a 38
28OdinVS 4b 31
29ValhallaHVS 4c 16
30Needle CrackVS 4b **101
31Joe Says It's Cool (King Wall)E2 5c *9
32NimbusS 4c 18
33GenesisHD 23
34VarusM 8
35King Wall GirdleVS 4c 3
 LEWES CASTLE (A.K.A. FALL BAY BUTRESS)  
37Fall Bay GirdleVS 4c, 4b **11
38BucketHVS 5b 1
39KetHVS 5a 16
40MandrakeHVS 5b 5
41EclipseE1 5c 1
42SeketE1 5b 16
43Monkey See And Monkey DoE4 6a *4
44Reptiles And SamuraiE4 6a *6
45Welsh WitchE3 6a 2
46IsisHVS 5a ***268
47HorusHVS 5a *32
48RheaHVS 5a **81
49Lazy Sunday AfternoonE2 5b ***45
50Frantic Sunday MorningE2 5c 3
51OsirisVS 4c ***434
52SethE1 5c ***77
53Seth / Lazy Sunday Afternoon CombinationE2 5c ***9
54HorsisHVS 5a *53
55RaHVS 5a 8
56FalloutVS 4b 8
57South East DiedreHVS 5a 14
58Continuity CornerHVS 5a 1
59GstelliS 73
60GethsemaneS 4a **415
61EdenVS 4c 212
62The BottleVS 4b *172
63The Bottle (Direct Start Variant)HVS 5b 18
64Cave CracksE2 5c *4
65Cave Cracks DirectE3 5c 3
66Age before beautyE1 5a 1
67South West DiedreHVS 5a **141
68South West Diedre VariantVS 4c 66
69InstigatorHVS 5a 35
70CombinationVS **57
71South East AreteE3 5c *3
72RhyddHVS 4c 3
73JT Where Is HeHVS 5a 1
 GIANT'S CAVE  
75Flake CornerVD 6
76SlightHVS 4c 6
77Red AdmiralE3 6a *2
78ErrantE2 5c 12
79ThrillerE4 6a **2
80The Divine Guiding LightE6 6b ***1
81Charlie Don't SurfE4 6a *18
82Madame ButterflyE5 6b **8
83Nick'dE2 5b *1
84ShannaraHS 4a 11
85EaseM 1
86Undercut AreteV2 5b/5c *1
87FlakeHS 1
 DEVIL'S TRUCK AREA  
89LytelS 42
90LeggeS 4a 43
91The NoseHS 4a *80
92NervusVS 4c 23
93TransitHS 4b 31
94AschenHVS 4c *20
95Gull CornerVS 4b 21
96White LimeD 22
97The RazorD 9
98High ChimneyS 4a 6
99Right South WallS 4
 OBSOLETE LINES  
101South-East PillarHVS 5a **3
102Massive Attack *VS 4b **2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer iang28

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Someone needs to take this crag off the database. Its covered under fall bay butress
chris wyatt - 12/Mar/07
Have to agree with comments on the looseness of Combination - says he, nursing a broken ankle!
gbuchanan - 05/Jul/06
Great climbing on this excellent crag, but I took a fall off of Combination (VS 4b)where there was a large amount of very big and very loose rock. Standing on top of the buttress near the base, my (sober) friend said the whole thing was shifting under my weight! I either went well off route, or someone needs to look at this route and judge how safe & solid the rock is.
nickle - 18/Jul/05
A great climbing experience if you geta chance do osiris it must be one of the best routes on the crag a treverse below the overhang to finish just passed. give it a bash if your there worth while
will.s - 11/Dec/03
we got a group to ab off fall bay buttress and they loved as you can see from above and i really enjoyed watching them do we got some great snaps which i will put on. well done all for doing it
will - 11/Dec/03
We abseiled down Fall bay butress last week, it was scary but i did it and it was only my second time out. It looked higher to me cos im tiny. There was birds flying underneath us. The surfers looked like dots your a whimp if you dont do it!
terri - 16/Oct/03
Best crag on the Gower at the VS - E2 grade, no tides!
phil leng - 08/Sep/03
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These details were last updated on 03/May/2013
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