Burbage South Edge

Climbs 368 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 398m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Two imposing quarries and a natural edge, all good quality grit, if a little green following Winter. Best visited in the evening, but remember the midge spray on balmy nights! Lots of superb routes, though few easy (Byne's Crack and Fox House Flake (both VS 4b). Better, but harder are Millwheel Wall (E1 5b), Zeus (E2 5b), Silent Spring (E4 5c, 5c), Pebble Mill (E5 6b), Braille Trail (E7 6c), and of course the best route on grit (?) Parthian Shot (E9 7a). And don't forget Equilibrium (E10 7a) on the Yoghurt Arete - currently the state of the art.

Access notes
Footpaths lead from below (NW of)The Fox House Inn (SK 267803) on the A625 Sheffield to Hathersage Road. Limited parking, but well-served by buses.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Froggatt (1991),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 BURBAGE EARL 
2The Flat CapV7 6b *
3The WhippetV5 6b *
4What a Way to Spend EasterV5 6b
5Dirty RascalV6 *
6Dizzie RascalV1 5c
7The Little RascalE4 6b *
8Rascal GrooveV5 6b
9Rascal Groove (top out)E1 6b
10Rascal Groove sit startV10 7a
11Flake 'n' BlobV0 4c
12The Housebrick ChimneyV0
13The HousebrickV2 6a
14Standup AreteV4 6a
15Kodak Lightweight Service SectorV5 *
16Fuji Heavy IndustriesV7 6c *
17Rail thingV2 5c
18Pocket Wall sit start LHf7A *
19Pocket WallV3 6a
20Pocket Wall (right-hand sit start)V8
21Pebble CrackHVS 5a
22Flat Wall DynoV6 6b
23Footy RibV2 5c
24IntenseV11 7a *
25I'm TenseV8 6c *
26Basketball BulgeV3 6a
27Black AreteV3 6a
28Left AreteV0 5a
29SnitchV3 6a
30Prow CrackS 4a
31The RibV8 6c *
32Fat Man's MiseryHS 4b
33Biscuits in my BeardHVS 5a
34Fat Man's Misery AreteV3 6a
35Brap Scallionf6C **
36DespareteV8 6c *
37No Name CrackS 4a
38No Name WallV1 5c
39Clark's RouteV1 5b
40Sublime IndifferenceV2 6a
41Big Bad WolfE5 6b
42Home CookingV5 6b *
43Eating Out/Home Cooking SlabV6 6b *
44Chockstone LaybackHVD 4a
45Green S-GrooveV2 6a
46Left Edge Dangerous SlabV1 5b
47Left EdgeV3 6a
48Triangle Wall sit startV5 6b
49Triangle WallV5 6b *
50Triangle Wall LaybackV4 6b
51Triangle Ribf6A
52Sweet AreteV3 6a
53Sweet Arete ChimneyVD
54Sweet Arete OffwidthS 4b
55The WrestleV4 6b
56Little Pig (Main Crag)V0 4c
57The AllianceV6 6b **
58The Alliance Sit Startf7B **
59The Alliance BoulderV4 6b
60Friar's WallV0- 4c
61DominicanV0- 4b
62Guppy LeftV1 5c
63Guppy AreteV2 5c
64Classic Arete Problemf7A+ **
65Guppy SitdownV6 6b
66SlantsideM
67Renobulous BonggetlE5 6a
68Short CrackVD 4a
69BreathlessHVS 5c
70Breathless StartV2 6a
71Lens CrackS 4a
72Lens AreteV2 5c
73Wagger's WiggleD
74Flip, Flop, FlyVS 5a
 THE LEFT END 
76Split Nose LeftVS 4c
77Split NoseVS 5a *
78The GnatE1 5c *
79MidgeE2 6a *
80KlegHVS 5b
81Every Man's MiseryVS 5a *
82TriglyphVS 5a
83The Notorious BLGE7 6c
84Abu SimbelM *
85Heidi BooE2 5c
86This LifeVD
87Bobby DazzlerE4 6a
88The ConnectionVD
89The Thistle FunnelS
90Chimney RouteHVD 4a
91Simbas PrideE8 6b
92StampedeE8 6c *
93Black OutE9 6c
94Roof RouteVS 4c **
95Daz UltraE4 6a
96Gable RouteHVS 4c *
97Rombald's StaircaseM
98The GutterHVS 5a
99Press OnE2 6a
 THE TOWER 
101Mad LlehctimE3 6b
102Lethargic AreteS 4a *
103Charlie's CrackHVS 5b *
104Life AssuranceE6 6b *
105Tower ClimbHS 4b
106Tower CrackHVS 5a *
107Balance It IsE7 6c ***
108Boggart Left-handE3 6a *
109BoggartE2 6b **
110Ridikulusf6C 6b
111YoghurtE3 6b
112EquilibriumE10 7a ***
113Tower ChimneyM *
 THE KEEP 
115Byne's FlakeVD
116Dynamics Of ChangeE9 7a ***
117Braille TrailE7 6c ***
118Blinded by ScienceE4 6a
119Child's PlayE7 6c
120Parthian ShotE9 6c ***
121Parthian Shot (+Nov 2013)E9 7a ***
122Brooks' CrackHVS 5a ***
123Combined HeroesE2 5c
124Byne's CrackVS 4b ***
125Easy TraverseHVS 5b
126The KurskV5 5b
127The SearingE3 6b *
128Back Down UnderE6 6c *
129The KnockE4 5c ***
130Ron, Ring Home!E5 6c *
131Keep CrackVS 5a *
132Keep RibV0+ 5b
133Who's There? Titan's GrandmaE3 6b
134Wow!E4 6b
135Fallen Block SloperV8 6c
 NOSFERATU AREA 
137Captain SensibleE1 5b *
138Bath House PinkE4 6c
139Slow LedgeVS 5a
140MagogHVS 5b
141GogHS 4c
142Gog AreteV0 5a
143Ladder Rib LeftV0 5a
144Ladder RibV3 6a
145Ladder GullyM
146Connolly's VariationD *
147Recurring NightmareE5 6b
148Macleod's CrackVD
149CrikeyE5 6a
150Fade AwayE1 6a *
151Dowel CrackVS 4c
152The Iron HandS 4a
153VulcanVD 4a
154PolluxHS 4b
155CastorVS 4b
156Movie StarHVS 5a
157SurpriseS 4b
158PythagorasHS 4b
159Shooting StarHVS 5b
160Pie and ChipsE1 6a
161Pigs make nestsV9 6c **
162Rock BottomV4 6b
163Definitive 5.11f6B+ *
164The GrazerV6 6b
165Iain's roof (strict)f7A *
166Sitting DuckV4 6a
167Little Earf3+
168Solsticef5
169Painting Pebbledash is a Pain in the Assf6B *
170Index ArêteS
171The Big DipperS
172SorbE2 5c *
173NosferatuE6 6b ***
174ReginaldVS 4b *
175Bad AttitudeV5 6b
176The Attitude InspectorV6 6b *
177NathanielHVS 5b
178The KnackE1 5c *
179Old MacDonaldV6 6b
180Nick Knack PaddywackE2 6b
181Knick Knack Paddywhack Sit Startf7A
182Bright EyesV7 6c ***
183Less BentS 4a
184Less Bent (direct finish)VS
185Zig-zagVS 4c *
186No ZagHVS 5b *
187Gib's Ribf7A **
188Unfinished SymphonyHVS 5b
189Ribbed CornerM
190Left BannisterHS 4a
191The StaircaseHS 4b *
192Confidence of YouthE3 6a
193The DrainpipeHS 4b **
194Booby PrizeE3 6b
195Parson's CrackS 4b
196Electrical StormV8 *
197Walker's PulpitS 4a
 OAK GROVE BOULDERS 
199Scratcher SitdownV4 6b
200Little ArtlessV7 6b
201Birch Tree AreteV4 6a
202Right WallV0+ 5b
203Big Block WallV4 6a
204Jason's MantelV7 6b *
205Your Basic MantelV6 6b
206Curving CrimpsV3 6a
207Oak Tree AreteV3 6a
208Block LaybackV0 4c
2097 BallV5 6b *
210Middle WallV0 5a
211Corner PocketV4 6b
212Corner Pocket (low start)V5 6b
213Gentle SlabVB
214Gentle RibV0 4c
215Gentle Rib sit startV1 5b
216The ReachV5 6b
217Matterhorn Left Aretef4
218Matterhorn LeftV1 5b
219Central Groove ThingV2 5c
220Right MatterhornV0- 4b
221Green AreteV0 5a
222Dark Hole CrackV3 5c
 PEBBLE MILL AREA 
224Rockfax Fax09 P29V0- 4c
225Little LimmockV3 6a
226Broddle's BabyV6 6b
227Trapped In Crows' Crawsf7A+ *
228DoddleM
229BroddleVS 4c
230LimmockHVS 5b *
231LinoHVS 5c
232The Birth of Liquid DesiresHVS 5a
233WazzockHS 4b *
234Playing DangerousE7 7a
235Pebble MillE5 6b ***
236Pepper MillV5 6b
237Pebble Mill TraverseV7 6c *
238Pepper LinkupV9 6c
239We Ain't Gonna Pay No TollE5 6b
240We Ain't Gonna Pay No Toll startV4 6b
241Midget TartE5 6b
242Micro MillV0+ 5a
243Dork ChildE1 5c *
244Dork Child StartV2 5b
245Dork WalkV2
246Dork SlabV1
247The DorkV1
248GoblinD
249The Disappearing Bust of VoltaireVS 5a
250Voltaire CornerS
251Above and Beyond the Kinaesthetic BarrierE4 6b **
252SamsonE6 7a *
253GoliathE4 5c ***
254Goliath TraverseV4 6a
255DavidHVS 4c ***
256David Traversef7A *
257Sling Shot (Burbage South)HVS 5b
258MessiahE6 6c ***
259Messiah TraverseV6 6b
260RollerwallV9
261SaulVS 5b *
 UNKNOWN ROUTES AND PROBLEMS 
263Quarry Gully D
264The flake corner start VD
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond

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