Climbs 368
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 398m a.s.l
Faces NW

Kevin Jorgeson on his way to the first ground-up ascent of Parthian Shot, E9 © Adam Long

Crag features

Two imposing quarries and a natural edge, all good quality grit, if a little green following Winter. Best visited in the evening, but remember the midge spray on balmy nights! Lots of superb routes, though few easy (Byne's Crack and Fox House Flake (both VS 4b). Better, but harder are Millwheel Wall (E1 5b), Zeus (E2 5b), Silent Spring (E4 5c, 5c), Pebble Mill (E5 6b), Braille Trail (E7 6c), and of course the best route on grit (?) Parthian Shot (E9 7a). And don't forget Equilibrium (E10 7a) on the Yoghurt Arete - currently the state of the art.

Approach notes

Footpaths lead from below (NW of)The Fox House Inn (SK 267803) on the A625 Sheffield to Hathersage Road. Limited parking, but well-served by buses.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Earl Area 
2The Flat Cap
-
V7 * 
3The Whippet
-
V5 * 
4What a Way to Spend Easter
-
V5 14
5Dirty RascalV6 *1
6Dizzie RascalV1 5
7The Little RascalE4 6c *2
8Rascal Groove
-
V5 15
9Rascal Groove (top out)
-
E1 6b 2
10Rascal Groove sit start
-
V10  
11Ronnie's Ribf7A * 
12Flake 'n' Blobf4 25
13The Housebrick ChimneyV0 5
14The Housebrick
-
V2 14
15Standup Aretef6B **23
16Kodak Lightweight Service SectorV5 *15
17Fuji Heavy IndustriesV7 *10
18Rail thingf5+ *37
19Pocket Wall sit start LHf7A *5
20Pocket Wallf6B *22
21Pocket Wall (right-hand sit start)
-
V8  
22Pebble CrackHVS 5a *12
23Flat Wall Dyno
-
V6 11
24Footy Ribf5+ 6
25Intensef8A 7a *2
26I'm Tense
-
V8 *3
27Basketball Bulge
-
V3 9
28Black Arete
-
V3 11
29Left Arete
-
V0 13
30Snitchf6A+ *10
31Prow CrackS 4b *35
32The Ribf7B+ *22
33Fat Man's MiseryS 3c *41
34Biscuits in my BeardHVS 5a 1
35Fat Man's Misery AreteV3 5
36Brap Scallionf6C ***12
37Impossible Groove? *** 
38Desparetef7B ***42
39No Name CrackVD 4a *84
40No Name WallV1 8
41Clark's Routef5 15
42Sublime Indifferencef6A *4
43Big Bad WolfE5 6b * 
44Home Cookingf7A *1
45Eating Out/Home Cooking SlabV6 *14
46Chockstone LaybackHVD 4a 46
47Green S-Groovef6A 5
48Left Edge Dangerous Slab
-
V1 3
49Left Edge
-
V3 16
50Triangle Wall sit start
-
V5 8
51Triangle WallV5 *30
52Triangle Wall Layback
-
V4 17
53Triangle Ribf6A 16
54Sweet Arete
-
V3 8
55Sweet Arete Chimney
-
VD 3
56Sweet Arete Offwidth
-
S 4b 1
57The Wrestle
-
V4 1
58Little Pig (Main Crag)S 4b 15
59The Alliancef7A ***82
60The Alliance Sit Start
-
f7B **2
61The Alliance Boulder
-
V4 1
62Friar's Wallf3+ 71
63DominicanHVD 4b 58
64Guppy Left
-
V1 34
65Guppy Aretef5+ *10
66Classic Arete Problemf6C **44
67Guppy Sitdown
-
V6 4
68SlantsideM 40
69Renobulous BongetlE5 6a 3
70Short CrackHVD 4a 36
71BreathlessHVS 5b 19
72Breathless Start
-
V2 4
73Lens CrackS 4a 52
74Lens Arete
-
V2 7
75Wagger's Wiggle
-
D 17
76Flip, Flop, Fly
-
VS 5a 1
 Split Nose 
78Split Nose LeftVS 4c 2
79Split NoseHVS 5a *21
80The GnatE1 5c *5
81MidgeE2 6a *6
82KlegHVS 5b 4
83Every Man's MiseryVS 5a *50
84TriglyphVS 4c *59
85The Notorious BLGE7 6c *2
86Abu SimbelD 47
87Heidi BooE2 5c 3
88This LifeVD 7
89Bobby DazzlerE4 6a  
90The ConnectionHVD 4a 11
91The Thistle FunnelVD 4a 65
 Roof Route 
93Chimney RouteVD 26
94StampedeE8 6c * 
95Simbas PrideE8 6b ***8
96Black OutE9 6c *** 
97Roof RouteVS 4c **373
98Daz UltraE4 6a 5
99Gable RouteVS 4c **197
100Rombald's StaircaseM *71
101The GutterHVS 5b 14
102Press OnE2 6a 5
 The Boggart and Byne's Crack 
104Mad Llehctimf6C *20
105Lethargic AreteS 4a *74
106Charlie's CrackHVS 5b **119
107Life AssuranceE6 6b **75
108Tower ClimbHS 4c *93
109Tower CrackHVS 5a **79
110Balance It IsE7 6c ***10
111Boggart Left-handE4 6a *49
112BoggartE2 6b **74
113Ridikulusf6C 1
114Yoghurt
-
E3 6b 3
115EquilibriumE10 7a ***2
116Tower ChimneyVD *59
 The keep 
118Byne's FlakeVD 5
119Dynamics Of ChangeE9 7a ** 
120Braille TrailE7 6c ***5
121Grandad's SlabE7 6c *** 
122Blinded by Science
-
E4 6a 2
123Child's Play
-
E7 6c  
124Parthian Shot (pre Nov 13)
-
E9 6c ***2
125Parthian ShotE10 6c *** 
126Brooks' CrackHVS 5a ***163
127Combined Heroes
-
E2 5c 3
128Byne's CrackVS 4b ***467
129Easy Traverse
-
HVS 5b 2
130The Kursk
-
V5 7
131The SearingE3 6a *2
132Back Down UnderE6 6c * 
133Ron, Ring Home!E5 6c * 
134The KnockE4 6a ***233
135Keep CrackHVS 5a *11
136Keep Rib
-
V0+ 4
137Who's There? Titan's GrandmaE3 6b 1
138Wow!E4 6b  
139Fallen Block Sloper
-
V8  
 Dowel Crack 
141Captain SensibleE1 5b *40
142Bath House PinkE4 6c 2
143Fast Ledgef6B 1
144Slow LedgeVS 4c 12
145MagogHVS 5b 2
146GogHS 4c *13
147Gog Aretef4+ 39
148Ladder Ribf6A+ *19
149Ladder Rib Right
-
f6A+ 35
150Ladder GullyD 83
151Connolly's VariationD 25
152Recurring NightmareE5 6b *12
153Macleod's CrackHVD 4a 92
154Lapwing VariationS 4a 1
155CrikeyE5 6a *3
156Fade AwayE1 6a 7
157Dowel CrackHVS 5a *40
158The Iron HandS 4b 80
159VulcanHVD 4a 42
160PolluxHS 4c 8
161CastorHS 4b 8
162Movie StarE1 5b *20
163SurpriseS 4a 22
164PythagorasHS 4b 17
165Shooting StarHVS 5b 2
166Pie and Chips
-
E1 6a 1
167Pigs make nestsV9 **1
168Rock Bottom
-
V4 27
169Definitive 5.11
-
f6B+ *11
170The Grazer
-
V6 14
171Iain's roof (strict)f7A *16
172Sitting Duck
-
V4 86
173Little Earf3+ 2
174Solsticef5 2
175Painting Pebbledash is a Pain in the Assf6B *3
176Index ArÍteS 2
177The Big DipperS 4a 20
 Nosferatu area 
179SorbE2 5c **109
180NosferatuE6 6b ***211
181ReginaldVS 4b *79
182Bad Attitudef6C *77
183The Attitude Inspectorf7A **164
184NathanielHVS 5b *22
185The Neckf7B * 
186The KnackE1 5c *82
187Old MacDonaldV6 3
188Nick Knack PaddywackE2 6b 10
189Knick Knack Paddywhack Sit Startf7A 6
190Bright EyesV7 ***2
191Less BentS 4a 75
192Less Bent (direct finish)
-
VS 2
193Zig-zagVS 4c *58
194No ZagE1 5b *164
195Gib's Ribf7A **13
196Unfinished SymphonyHVS 5b *9
197Ribbed CornerD 93
198Left BannisterHS 4a 57
199The StaircaseS 4a *425
200Confidence of YouthE3 6a 7
201The DrainpipeHS 4b **301
202Booby PrizeE3 6b 1
203Parson's CrackHS 4b *46
204Electrical Stormf7A+ **95
205Walker's PulpitHVD 4a 62
 oak grove boulders 
207Scratcher Sitdown
-
V4 16
208Little Artless
-
V7 5
209Birch Tree Arete
-
V4 29
210Right Wall
-
V0+ 8
211Big Block Wall
-
V4 16
212Jason's Mantel
-
V7 *6
213Your Basic Mantel
-
V6 33
214Curving Crimps
-
V3 38
215Oak Tree Arete
-
V3 37
216Block Layback
-
V0 33
2177 Ball
-
V5 *167
218Middle Wall
-
V0 61
219Corner Pocket
-
V4 30
220Corner Pocket (low start)
-
V5 8
221Gentle SlabVB 29
222Gentle Rib
-
V0 74
223Gentle Rib sit start
-
V1 45
224The Reach
-
V5 9
225Matterhorn Left Aretef4 21
226Matterhorn LeftV1 95
227Central Groove Thing
-
V2 103
228Right Matterhorn
-
V0- 103
229Green Arete
-
V0 24
230Dark Hole Crack
-
V3 6
 Pebble Mill 
232Rockfax Fax09 P29V0- 5
233Little Limmock
-
V3 17
234Broddle's Baby
-
V6 4
235Trapped In Crows' Crawsf7A+ * 
236DoddleM 5
237BroddleVS 4c 124
238LimmockHVS 5b *117
239LinoHVS 5a 18
240The Birth of Liquid DesiresHVS 5a 18
241WazzockS 4a *135
242Playing Dangerous
-
E7 7a  
243Pebble MillE5 6b ***148
244Pepper Millf6C+ *24
245Pebble Mill Traversef7A+ *42
246Pepper Linkup
-
V9 1
247We Ain't Gonna Pay No TollE5 6b **7
248We Ain't Gonna Pay No Toll start
-
V4 2
249Midget Tart
-
E5 6b 1
250Micro MillV0+ 9
251Dork ChildE1 5c *32
252Dork Child StartV2 9
253Dork WalkV2 3
254Dork SlabV1 6
255The DorkV1 4
256Goblin
-
D 16
257The Disappearing Bust of Voltaire
-
VS 5a 6
258Voltaire CornerS 4
 David and Goliath 
260Above and Beyond the Kinaesthetic BarrierE4 6b **23
261Samsonf8A *1
262GoliathE4 6a ***61
263Goliath Traverse
-
V4 2
264DavidHVS 4c ***196
265David Traverse
-
f7A *16
266Sling Shot (Burbage South)HVS 5b *18
267MessiahE7 6c ***2
268Messiah Traversef7A *11
269Rollerwallf7C 15
270SaulVS 5b *117
 Unknown Routes and Problems 
272Quarry GullyD 2
273The flake corner start
-
VD 2
274Matterhorn SlabV0- 4
 Routes Added from Rockfax Book 

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