Burbage South Edge

Climbs 368 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 398m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Two imposing quarries and a natural edge, all good quality grit, if a little green following Winter. Best visited in the evening, but remember the midge spray on balmy nights! Lots of superb routes, though few easy (Byne's Crack and Fox House Flake (both VS 4b). Better, but harder are Millwheel Wall (E1 5b), Zeus (E2 5b), Silent Spring (E4 5c, 5c), Pebble Mill (E5 6b), Braille Trail (E7 6c), and of course the best route on grit (?) Parthian Shot (E9 7a). And don't forget Equilibrium (E10 7a) on the Yoghurt Arete - currently the state of the art.

Access notes
Footpaths lead from below (NW of)The Fox House Inn (SK 267803) on the A625 Sheffield to Hathersage Road. Limited parking, but well-served by buses.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Eastern Grit (2015), Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006) (2006), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Froggatt (1991),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 EARL AREA  
2The Flat CapV7 6b * 
3The WhippetV5 6b *2
4What a Way to Spend EasterV5 6b 12
5Dirty RascalV6 *1
6Dizzie RascalV1 5c 1
7The Little RascalE4 6c *4
8Rascal GrooveV5 6b 14
9Rascal Groove (top out)E1 6b 2
10Rascal Groove sit startV10 7a  
11Ronnie's Ribf7A * 
12Flake 'n' Blobf4 20
13The Housebrick ChimneyV0 5
14The HousebrickV2 6a 11
15Standup Aretef6B **21
16Kodak Lightweight Service SectorV5 *11
17Fuji Heavy IndustriesV7 6c *11
18Rail thingf5+ *31
19Pocket Wall sit start LHf7A *3
20Pocket Wallf6B *21
21Pocket Wall (right-hand sit start)V8  
22Pebble CrackHVS 5a *13
23Flat Wall DynoV6 6b 12
24Footy Ribf5+ 5
25Intensef8A 7a *4
26I'm TenseV8 6c *4
27Basketball BulgeV3 6a 9
28Black AreteV3 6a 13
29Left AreteV0 5a 13
30Snitchf6A+ *8
31Prow CrackS 4b *35
32The Ribf7B+ *22
33Fat Man's MiseryS 3c *38
34Biscuits in my BeardHVS 5a 1
35Fat Man's Misery AreteV3 6a 5
36Brap Scallionf6C ***8
37Impossible Groove? *** 
38Desparetef7B ***23
39No Name CrackVD 4a *77
40No Name WallV1 5c 7
41Clark's Routef5 15
42Sublime Indifferencef6A *6
43Big Bad WolfE5 6b *2
44Home Cookingf7A *4
45Eating Out/Home Cooking SlabV6 6b *15
46Chockstone LaybackHVD 4a 39
47Green S-Groovef6A 5
48Left Edge Dangerous SlabV1 5b 3
49Left EdgeV3 6a 15
50Triangle Wall sit startV5 6b 7
51Triangle WallV5 6b *32
52Triangle Wall LaybackV4 6b 11
53Triangle Ribf6A 7
54Sweet AreteV3 6a 9
55Sweet Arete ChimneyVD 3
56Sweet Arete OffwidthS 4b 1
57The WrestleV4 6b 3
58Little Pig (Main Crag)S 4b 16
59The Alliancef7A ***61
60The Alliance Sit Startf7B **2
61The Alliance BoulderV4 6b 1
62Friar's Wallf3+ 64
63DominicanHVD 4b 56
64Guppy LeftV1 5c 33
65Guppy Aretef5+ *12
66Classic Arete Problemf6C **40
67Guppy SitdownV6 6b 6
68SlantsideM 34
69Renobulous BongetlE5 6a 4
70Short CrackHVD 4a 33
71BreathlessHVS 5b 19
72Breathless StartV2 6a 6
73Lens CrackS 4a 49
74Lens AreteV2 5c 9
75Wagger's WiggleD 18
76Flip, Flop, FlyVS 5a 3
 SPLIT NOSE  
78Split Nose LeftVS 4c 2
79Split NoseHVS 5a *20
80The GnatE1 5c *7
81MidgeE2 6a *8
82KlegHVS 5b 5
83Every Man's MiseryVS 5a *47
84TriglyphVS 4c *56
85The Notorious BLGE7 6c *2
86Abu SimbelD 47
87Heidi BooE2 5c 5
88This LifeVD 8
89Bobby DazzlerE4 6a 2
90The ConnectionHVD 4a 13
91The Thistle FunnelVD 4a 65
 ROOF ROUTE  
93Chimney RouteVD 26
94Simbas PrideE8 6b ***9
95StampedeE8 6c *2
96Black OutE9 6c *** 
97Roof RouteVS 4c **346
98Daz UltraE4 6a 6
99Gable RouteVS 4c **185
100Rombald's StaircaseM *68
101The GutterHVS 5b 15
102Press OnE2 6a 7
 THE BOGGART AND BYNE'S CRACK  
104Mad Llehctimf6C *17
105Lethargic AreteS 4a *69
106Charlie's CrackHVS 5b **106
107Life AssuranceE6 6b **64
108Tower ClimbHS 4c *90
109Tower CrackHVS 5a **72
110Balance It IsE7 6c ***11
111Boggart Left-handE4 6a *49
112BoggartE2 6b **53
113Ridikulusf6C 6b 1
114YoghurtE3 6b 5
115EquilibriumE10 7a ***4
116Tower ChimneyVD *57
 THE KEEP  
118Byne's FlakeVD 7
119Dynamics Of ChangeE9 7a ** 
120Braille TrailE7 6c ***7
121Grandad's SlabE7 6c *** 
122Blinded by ScienceE4 6a 4
123Child's PlayE7 6c 2
124Parthian Shot (pre Nov 13)E9 6c ***4
125Parthian ShotE10 6c *** 
126Brooks' CrackHVS 5a ***148
127Combined HeroesE2 5c 5
128Byne's CrackVS 4b ***391
129Easy TraverseHVS 5b 4
130The KurskV5 5b 8
131The SearingE3 6a *3
132Back Down UnderE6 6c *2
133The KnockE4 6a ***149
134Ron, Ring Home!E5 6c *2
135Keep CrackHVS 5a *13
136Keep RibV0+ 5b 6
137Who's There? Titan's GrandmaE3 6b 3
138Wow!E4 6b 2
139Fallen Block SloperV8 6c 2
 DOWEL CRACK  
141Captain SensibleE1 5b *34
142Bath House PinkE4 6c 4
143Fast Ledgef6B  
144Slow LedgeVS 4c 12
145MagogHVS 5b 4
146GogHS 4c *15
147Gog Aretef4+ 38
148Ladder Rib LeftV0 5a 14
149Ladder Ribf6A+ *32
150Ladder GullyD 74
151Connolly's VariationD 27
152Recurring NightmareE5 6b *12
153Macleod's CrackHVD 4a 86
154Lapwing VariationS 4a  
155CrikeyE5 6a *5
156Fade AwayE1 6a 8
157Dowel CrackHVS 5a *38
158The Iron HandS 4b 73
159VulcanHVD 4a 36
160PolluxHS 4c 10
161CastorHS 4b 9
162Movie StarE1 5b *19
163SurpriseS 4a 24
164PythagorasHS 4b 17
165Shooting StarHVS 5b 4
166Pie and ChipsE1 6a 3
167Pigs make nestsV9 6c **1
168Rock BottomV4 6b 26
169Definitive 5.11f6B+ *12
170The GrazerV6 6b 14
171Iain's roof (strict)f7A *14
172Sitting DuckV4 6a 71
173Little Earf3+ 2
174Solsticef5 2
175Painting Pebbledash is a Pain in the Assf6B *3
176Index ArêteS 2
177The Big DipperS 4a 20
 NOSFERATU AREA  
179SorbE2 5c **90
180NosferatuE6 6b ***123
181ReginaldVS 4b *72
182Bad Attitudef6C *62
183The Attitude Inspectorf7A **127
184NathanielHVS 5b *19
185The Neckf7B * 
186The KnackE1 5c *70
187Old MacDonaldV6 6b 5
188Nick Knack PaddywackE2 6b 12
189Knick Knack Paddywhack Sit Startf7A 4
190Bright EyesV7 6c ***4
191Less BentS 4a 74
192Less Bent (direct finish)VS 2
193Zig-zagVS 4c *51
194No ZagE1 5b *149
195Gib's Ribf7A **8
196Unfinished SymphonyHVS 5b *11
197Ribbed CornerD 88
198Left BannisterHS 4a 50
199The StaircaseS 4a *389
200Confidence of YouthE3 6a 9
201The DrainpipeHS 4b **274
202Booby PrizeE3 6b 1
203Parson's CrackHS 4b *45
204Electrical Stormf7A+ **53
205Walker's PulpitHVD 4a 58
 OAK GROVE BOULDERS  
207Scratcher SitdownV4 6b 17
208Little ArtlessV7 6b 7
209Birch Tree AreteV4 6a 25
210Right WallV0+ 5b 9
211Big Block WallV4 6a 20
212Jason's MantelV7 6b *8
213Your Basic MantelV6 6b 29
214Curving CrimpsV3 6a 35
215Oak Tree AreteV3 6a 32
216Block LaybackV0 4c 32
2177 BallV5 6b *126
218Middle WallV0 5a 50
219Corner PocketV4 6b 30
220Corner Pocket (low start)V5 6b 6
221Gentle SlabVB 22
222Gentle RibV0 4c 64
223Gentle Rib sit startV1 5b 37
224The ReachV5 6b 9
225Matterhorn Left Aretef4 8
226Matterhorn LeftV1 5b 82
227Central Groove ThingV2 5c 88
228Right MatterhornV0- 4b 86
229Green AreteV0 5a 22
230Dark Hole CrackV3 5c 8
 PEBBLE MILL  
232Rockfax Fax09 P29V0- 4c 5
233Little LimmockV3 6a 16
234Broddle's BabyV6 6b 6
235Trapped In Crows' Crawsf7A+ * 
236DoddleM 5
237BroddleVS 4c 115
238LimmockHVS 5b *103
239LinoHVS 5a 16
240The Birth of Liquid DesiresHVS 5a 18
241WazzockS 4a *128
242Playing DangerousE7 7a 2
243Pebble MillE5 6b ***93
244Pepper Millf6C+ *19
245Pebble Mill Traversef7A+ *31
246Pepper LinkupV9 6c 3
247We Ain't Gonna Pay No TollE5 6b **9
248We Ain't Gonna Pay No Toll startV4 6b 2
249Midget TartE5 6b 3
250Micro MillV0+ 5a 7
251Dork ChildE1 5c *29
252Dork Child StartV2 5b 7
253Dork WalkV2 2
254Dork SlabV1 4
255The DorkV1 3
256GoblinD 18
257The Disappearing Bust of VoltaireVS 5a 8
258Voltaire CornerS 4
 DAVID AND GOLIATH  
260Above and Beyond the Kinaesthetic BarrierE4 6b **13
261Samsonf8A *2
262GoliathE4 6a ***56
263Goliath TraverseV4 6a 3
264DavidHVS 4c ***181
265David Traversef7A *18
266Sling Shot (Burbage South)HVS 5b *19
267MessiahE7 6c ***4
268Messiah Traversef7A *13
269Rollerwallf7C 8
270SaulVS 5b *106
 UNKNOWN ROUTES AND PROBLEMS  
272Quarry Gully D 2
273The flake corner start VD 2
 ROUTES ADDED FROM ROCKFAX BOOK  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There are no comments from visitors to this crag.