Burbage South Edge

Climbs 368 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 398m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Two imposing quarries and a natural edge, all good quality grit, if a little green following Winter. Best visited in the evening, but remember the midge spray on balmy nights! Lots of superb routes, though few easy (Byne's Crack and Fox House Flake (both VS 4b). Better, but harder are Millwheel Wall (E1 5b), Zeus (E2 5b), Silent Spring (E4 5c, 5c), Pebble Mill (E5 6b), Braille Trail (E7 6c), and of course the best route on grit (?) Parthian Shot (E9 7a). And don't forget Equilibrium (E10 7a) on the Yoghurt Arete - currently the state of the art.

Access notes
Footpaths lead from below (NW of)The Fox House Inn (SK 267803) on the A625 Sheffield to Hathersage Road. Limited parking, but well-served by buses.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Froggatt (1991),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 BURBAGE EARL  
2The Flat CapV7 6b * 
3The WhippetV5 6b *2
4What a Way to Spend EasterV5 6b 12
5Dirty RascalV6 *1
6Dizzie RascalV1 5c 1
7The Little RascalE4 6b *4
8Rascal GrooveV5 6b 14
9Rascal Groove (top out)E1 6b 2
10Rascal Groove sit startV10 7a  
11Flake 'n' BlobV0 4c 20
12The Housebrick ChimneyV0 5
13The HousebrickV2 6a 11
14Standup AreteV4 6a 20
15Kodak Lightweight Service SectorV5 *11
16Fuji Heavy IndustriesV7 6c *11
17Rail thingV2 5c 29
18Pocket Wall sit start LHf7A *3
19Pocket WallV3 6a 21
20Pocket Wall (right-hand sit start)V8  
21Pebble CrackHVS 5a *13
22Flat Wall DynoV6 6b 12
23Footy RibV2 5c 5
24IntenseV11 7a *4
25I'm TenseV8 6c *4
26Basketball BulgeV3 6a 9
27Black AreteV3 6a 13
28Left AreteV0 5a 13
29SnitchV3 6a 8
30Prow CrackS 4b 35
31The RibV8+ 6c *22
32Fat Man's MiseryS 3c 37
33Biscuits in my BeardHVS 5a 1
34Fat Man's Misery AreteV3 6a 5
35Brap Scallionf6C **7
36DespareteV8+ 6c *21
37No Name CrackVD 4a 77
38No Name WallV1 5c 7
39Clark's RouteV1 5b 15
40Sublime IndifferenceV2 6a *6
41Big Bad WolfE5 6b *2
42Home CookingV5 6b *4
43Eating Out/Home Cooking SlabV6 6b *15
44Chockstone LaybackHVD 4a 38
45Green S-GrooveV2 6a 5
46Left Edge Dangerous SlabV1 5b 3
47Left EdgeV3 6a 14
48Triangle Wall sit startV5 6b 7
49Triangle WallV5 6b *32
50Triangle Wall LaybackV4 6b 9
51Triangle Ribf6A 6
52Sweet AreteV3 6a 9
53Sweet Arete ChimneyVD 3
54Sweet Arete OffwidthS 4b 1
55The WrestleV4 6b 3
56Little Pig (Main Crag)S 4b 16
57The AllianceV6 6b 60
58The Alliance Sit Startf7B **1
59The Alliance BoulderV4 6b 1
60Friar's WallVS 4b 63
61DominicanHVD 4b 55
62Guppy LeftV1 5c 31
63Guppy AreteV2 5c *12
64Classic Arete Problemf7A+ **38
65Guppy SitdownV6 6b 6
66SlantsideM 34
67Renobulous BonggetlE5 6a 4
68Short CrackHVD 4a 33
69BreathlessHVS 5b 19
70Breathless StartV2 6a 6
71Lens CrackS 4a 49
72Lens AreteV2 5c 9
73Wagger's WiggleD 18
74Flip, Flop, FlyVS 5a 3
 THE LEFT END  
76Split Nose LeftVS 4c 2
77Split NoseVS 5a *20
78The GnatHVS 5b *7
79MidgeE1 6a *8
80KlegHVS 5b 5
81Every Man's MiseryVS 5a *47
82TriglyphVS 4c *56
83The Notorious BLGE7 6c *2
84Abu SimbelD *47
85Heidi BooE2 5c 5
86This LifeVD 8
87Bobby DazzlerE4 6a 2
88The ConnectionHVD 4a 13
89The Thistle FunnelVD 4a 65
90Chimney RouteHVD 4a 26
91Simbas PrideE8 6b **9
92StampedeE8 6c *2
93Black OutE9 6c  
94Roof RouteVS 4c **344
95Daz UltraE4 6a 6
96Gable RouteVS 4c **185
97Rombald's StaircaseM *68
98The GutterHVS 5b 15
99Press OnE2 6a 7
 THE TOWER  
101Mad LlehctimE3 6b 17
102Lethargic AreteS 4a *69
103Charlie's CrackHVS 5b **106
104Life AssuranceE6 6b **64
105Tower ClimbHS 4c *90
106Tower CrackHVS 5a **72
107Balance It IsE7 6c **11
108Boggart Left-handE4 6a *49
109BoggartE2 6b **53
110Ridikulusf6C 6b 1
111YoghurtE3 6b 5
112EquilibriumE10 7a ***4
113Tower ChimneyVD *57
 THE KEEP  
115Byne's FlakeVD 7
116Dynamics Of ChangeE9 7a *** 
117Braille TrailE7 6c ***7
118Grandad's SlabE7 6c *** 
119Blinded by ScienceE4 6a 4
120Child's PlayE7 6c 2
121Parthian ShotE9 6c ***4
122Parthian Shot (+Nov 2013)E9 7a *** 
123Brooks' CrackHVS 5a **148
124Combined HeroesE2 5c 5
125Byne's CrackVS 4b ***390
126Easy TraverseHVS 5b 4
127The KurskV5 5b 8
128The SearingE3 6a 3
129Back Down UnderE6 6c *2
130The KnockE4 6a ***149
131Ron, Ring Home!E5 6c *2
132Keep CrackHVS 5a *13
133Keep RibV0+ 5b 6
134Who's There? Titan's GrandmaE3 6b 3
135Wow!E4 6b 2
136Fallen Block SloperV8 6c 2
 NOSFERATU AREA  
138Captain SensibleE1 5b *34
139Bath House PinkE4 6c 3
140Slow LedgeVS 4c 10
141MagogHVS 5b 4
142GogHS 4c 15
143Gog AreteV0 5a 35
144Ladder Rib LeftV0 5a 14
145Ladder RibV3 6a *30
146Ladder GullyD 73
147Connolly's VariationD *27
148Recurring NightmareE5 6b *12
149Macleod's CrackHVD 4a 86
150CrikeyE5 6a *5
151Fade AwayE1 6a 8
152Dowel CrackHVS 5a 38
153The Iron HandS 4b 72
154VulcanVD 4a 36
155PolluxHS 4c 10
156CastorHS 4b 9
157Movie StarHVS 5a *19
158SurpriseHVD 4a 24
159PythagorasS 4b 17
160Shooting StarHVS 5b 4
161Pie and ChipsE1 6a 3
162Pigs make nestsV9 6c **1
163Rock BottomV4 6b 25
164Definitive 5.11f6B+ *12
165The GrazerV6 6b 14
166Iain's roof (strict)f7A *13
167Sitting DuckV4 6a 68
168Little Earf3+ 2
169Solsticef5 2
170Painting Pebbledash is a Pain in the Assf6B *3
171Index ArêteS 2
172The Big DipperS 4a 20
173SorbE2 5c **90
174NosferatuE6 6b ***122
175ReginaldVS 4b *72
176Bad AttitudeV5 6b *61
177The Attitude InspectorV6 6b **125
178NathanielHVS 5b *19
179The KnackE1 5c *71
180Old MacDonaldV6 6b 5
181Nick Knack PaddywackE2 6b 12
182Knick Knack Paddywhack Sit Startf7A 4
183Bright EyesV7 6c ***4
184Less BentS 4a 74
185Less Bent (direct finish)VS 2
186Zig-zagVS 4c *51
187No ZagE1 5b *149
188Gib's Ribf7A **8
189Unfinished SymphonyHVS 5b *11
190Ribbed CornerD 88
191Left BannisterHS 4a 50
192The StaircaseS 4a *389
193Confidence of YouthE3 6a 9
194The DrainpipeHS 4b *272
195Booby PrizeE3 6b 1
196Parson's CrackHS 4a *45
197Electrical StormV7 6c 52
198Walker's PulpitVD 56
 OAK GROVE BOULDERS  
200Scratcher SitdownV4 6b 15
201Little ArtlessV7 6b 7
202Birch Tree AreteV4 6a 23
203Right WallV0+ 5b 8
204Big Block WallV4 6a 19
205Jason's MantelV7 6b *7
206Your Basic MantelV6 6b 25
207Curving CrimpsV3 6a 32
208Oak Tree AreteV3 6a 29
209Block LaybackV0 4c 31
2107 BallV5 6b *124
211Middle WallV0 5a 47
212Corner PocketV4 6b 27
213Corner Pocket (low start)V5 6b 6
214Gentle SlabVB 21
215Gentle RibV0 4c 63
216Gentle Rib sit startV1 5b 36
217The ReachV5 6b 7
218Matterhorn Left Aretef4 6
219Matterhorn LeftV1 5b 80
220Central Groove ThingV2 5c 86
221Right MatterhornV0- 4b 83
222Green AreteV0 5a 22
223Dark Hole CrackV3 5c 8
 PEBBLE MILL AREA  
225Rockfax Fax09 P29V0- 4c 5
226Little LimmockV3 6a 16
227Broddle's BabyV6 6b 6
228Trapped In Crows' Crawsf7A+ * 
229DoddleM 5
230BroddleHS 4c 113
231LimmockHVS 5b *103
232LinoHVS 5a 16
233The Birth of Liquid DesiresHVS 5a 18
234WazzockS 4a *126
235Playing DangerousE7 7a 2
236Pebble MillE5 6b ***93
237Pepper MillV5 6b 19
238Pebble Mill TraverseV7 6c *30
239Pepper LinkupV9 6c 3
240We Ain't Gonna Pay No TollE5 6b *9
241We Ain't Gonna Pay No Toll startV4 6b 2
242Midget TartE5 6b 3
243Micro MillV0+ 5a 5
244Dork ChildE1 5c *29
245Dork Child StartV2 5b 7
246Dork WalkV2 2
247Dork SlabV1 4
248The DorkV1 3
249GoblinD 18
250The Disappearing Bust of VoltaireVS 5a 7
251Voltaire CornerS 4
252Above and Beyond the Kinaesthetic BarrierE4 6b **13
253SamsonE6 7a *2
254GoliathE4 6a ***56
255Goliath TraverseV4 6a 3
256DavidHVS 4c ***180
257David Traversef7A *18
258Sling Shot (Burbage South)HVS 5b *17
259MessiahE7 6c ***4
260Messiah TraverseV6 6b 13
261RollerwallV9 7a 8
262SaulVS 5b *106
 UNKNOWN ROUTES AND PROBLEMS  
264Quarry Gully D 2
265The flake corner start VD 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond

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