Climbs 368
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 398m a.s.l
Faces NW

Kevin Jorgeson on his way to the first ground-up ascent of Parthian Shot, E9 © Adam Long

Crag features

Two imposing quarries and a natural edge, all good quality grit, if a little green following Winter. Best visited in the evening, but remember the midge spray on balmy nights! Lots of superb routes, though few easy (Byne's Crack and Fox House Flake (both VS 4b). Better, but harder are Millwheel Wall (E1 5b), Zeus (E2 5b), Silent Spring (E4 5c, 5c), Pebble Mill (E5 6b), Braille Trail (E7 6c), and of course the best route on grit (?) Parthian Shot (E9 7a). And don't forget Equilibrium (E10 7a) on the Yoghurt Arete - currently the state of the art.

Approach notes

Footpaths lead from below (NW of)The Fox House Inn (SK 267803) on the A625 Sheffield to Hathersage Road. Limited parking, but well-served by buses.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Earl Area 
2The Flat Cap
-
V7 * 
3The Whippet
-
V5 * 
4What a Way to Spend Easter
-
V5 18
5Dirty RascalV6 *2
6Dizzie RascalV1 6
7The Little RascalE4 6c *2
8Rascal Groove
-
V5 20
9Rascal Groove (top out)
-
E1 6b 2
10Rascal Groove sit start
-
V10 1
11Ronnie's Ribf7A * 
12Flake 'n' Blobf4 26
13The Housebrick ChimneyV0 5
14The Housebrick
-
V2 14
15Standup Aretef6B **23
16Kodak Lightweight Service SectorV5 *15
17Fuji Heavy IndustriesV7 *11
18Rail thingf5+ *37
19Pocket Wall sit start LHf7A *5
20Pocket Wallf6B *22
21Pocket Wall (right-hand sit start)
-
V8  
22Pebble CrackHVS 5a *14
23Flat Wall Dyno
-
V6 11
24Footy Ribf5+ 6
25Intensef8A 7a *2
26I'm Tense
-
V8 *3
27Basketball Bulge
-
V3 9
28Black Arete
-
V3 11
29Left Arete
-
V0 13
30Snitchf6A+ *11
31Prow CrackS 4b *37
32The Ribf7B+ *36
33Fat Man's MiseryS 3c *43
34Biscuits in my BeardHVS 5a 1
35Fat Man's Misery AreteV3 5
36Brap Scallionf6C ***13
37Impossible Groove
-
? *** 
38Desparetef7B ***44
39No Name CrackVD 4a *89
40No Name WallV1 8
41Clark's Routef5 15
42Sublime Indifferencef6A *5
43Big Bad WolfE5 6b * 
44Home Cookingf7A *4
45Eating Out/Home Cooking SlabV6 *14
46Chockstone LaybackHVD 4a 48
47Green S-Groovef6A 5
48Left Edge Dangerous Slab
-
V1 3
49Left Edge
-
V3 21
50Triangle Wall sit start
-
V5 11
51Triangle WallV5 *36
52Triangle Wall Layback
-
V4 23
53Triangle Ribf6A 17
54Sweet Arete
-
V3 8
55Sweet Arete Chimney
-
VD 3
56Sweet Arete Offwidth
-
S 4b 1
57The Wrestle
-
V4 1
58Little Pig (Main Crag)S 4b 16
59The Alliancef7A ***97
60The Alliance Sit Start
-
f7B **3
61The Alliance Boulder
-
V4 1
62Friar's Wall
-
V0- 75
63DominicanHVD 4b 62
64Guppy Left
-
V1 34
65Guppy Aretef5+ *10
66Classic Arete Problemf6C **45
67Guppy Sitdown
-
V6 4
68SlantsideM 42
69Renobulous BongetlE5 6a 3
70Short CrackHVD 4a 40
71BreathlessHVS 5b 19
72Breathless Start
-
V2 4
73Lens CrackS 4a 56
74Lens Arete
-
V2 7
75Wagger's Wiggle
-
D 17
76Flip, Flop, Fly
-
VS 5a 1
 Split Nose 
78Split Nose LeftVS 4c 2
79Split NoseHVS 5a *21
80The GnatE1 5c *5
81MidgeE2 6a *6
82KlegHVS 5b 4
83Every Man's MiseryVS 5a *69
84TriglyphVS 4c *63
85The Notorious BLGE7 6c *2
86Abu SimbelD 49
87Heidi BooE2 5c 3
88This LifeVD 8
89Bobby DazzlerE4 6a  
90The ConnectionHVD 4a 12
91The Thistle FunnelVD 4a 67
 Roof Route 
93Chimney RouteVD 30
94StampedeE8 6c * 
95Simbas PrideE8 6b ***32
96Black OutE9 6c *** 
97Roof RouteVS 4c **435
98Daz UltraE4 6a 7
99Gable RouteVS 4c **219
100Rombald's StaircaseM *80
101The GutterHVS 5b 17
102Press OnE2 6a 6
 The Boggart and Byne's Crack 
104Mad Llehctimf6C *27
105Lethargic AreteS 4a *77
106Charlie's CrackHVS 5b **130
107Life AssuranceE6 6b **133
108Tower ClimbHS 4c *98
109Tower CrackHVS 5a **87
110Balance It IsE7 6c ***53
111Boggart Left-handE4 6a *62
112BoggartE2 6b **79
113Ridikulusf6C 1
114Yoghurt
-
E3 6b 4
115EquilibriumE10 7a ***2
116Tower ChimneyVD *62
 The keep 
118Byne's FlakeVD 6
119Dynamics Of ChangeE9 7a ** 
120Braille TrailE7 6c ***6
121Grandad's SlabE7 6c *** 
122Blinded by Science
-
E4 6a 2
123Child's Play
-
E7 6c  
124Parthian Shot (pre Nov 13)
-
E9 6c ***2
125Parthian ShotE10 6c *** 
126Brooks' CrackHVS 5a ***213
127Combined Heroes
-
E2 5c 3
128Byne's CrackVS 4b ***521
129Easy Traverse
-
HVS 5b 3
130The Kursk
-
V5 7
131The SearingE3 6a *2
132Back Down UnderE6 6c * 
133Ron, Ring Home!E5 6c * 
134The KnockE4 6a ***255
135Keep CrackHVS 5a *15
136Keep Rib
-
V0+ 4
137Who's There? Titan's GrandmaE3 6b 1
138Wow!E4 6b  
139Fallen Block Sloper
-
V8  
 Dowel Crack 
141Captain SensibleE1 5b *37
142Bath House PinkE4 6c 2
143Fast Ledgef6B 2
144Slow LedgeVS 4c 12
145MagogHVS 5b 2
146GogHS 4c *14
147Gog Aretef4+ 43
148Ladder Ribf6A+ *22
149Ladder Rib Right
-
f6A+ 37
150Ladder GullyD 86
151Connolly's VariationD 25
152Recurring NightmareE5 6b *20
153Macleod's CrackHVD 4a 93
154Lapwing VariationS 4a 1
155CrikeyE5 6a *3
156Fade AwayE1 6a 7
157Dowel CrackHVS 5a *43
158The Iron HandS 4b 82
159VulcanHVD 4a 43
160PolluxHS 4c 10
161CastorHS 4b 9
162Movie StarE1 5b *21
163SurpriseS 4a 23
164PythagorasHS 4b 17
165Shooting StarHVS 5b 2
166Pie and Chips
-
E1 6a 1
167Pigs make nestsV9 **3
168More Cheese GromitV6 **5
169Rock Bottom
-
V4 34
170Definitive 5.11
-
f6B+ *20
171The Grazer
-
V6 18
172Iain's roof (strict)f7A *20
173Sitting Duck
-
V4 107
174Little Earf3+ 2
175Solsticef5 2
176Painting Pebbledash is a Pain in the Assf6B *3
177Index ArÍteS 2
178The Big DipperS 4a 20
 Nosferatu area 
180SorbE2 5c **111
181NosferatuE6 6b ***231
182ReginaldVS 4b *86
183Bad Attitudef6C *90
184The Attitude Inspectorf7A **179
185NathanielHVS 5b *28
186The Neckf7B * 
187The KnackE1 5c *86
188Old MacDonaldV6 3
189Nick Knack PaddywackE2 6b 10
190Knick Knack Paddywhack Sit Startf7A 8
191Bright EyesV7 ***2
192Less BentS 4a 77
193Less Bent (direct finish)
-
VS 3
194Zig-zagVS 4c *62
195No ZagE1 5b *181
196Gib's Ribf7A **21
197Unfinished SymphonyHVS 5b *17
198Ribbed CornerD 94
199Left BannisterHS 4a 58
200The StaircaseS 4a *452
201Confidence of YouthE3 6a 14
202The DrainpipeHS 4b **321
203Booby PrizeE3 6b 1
204Parson's CrackHS 4b *48
205Electrical Stormf7A+ **106
206Walker's PulpitHVD 4a 64
 oak grove boulders 
208Scratcher Sitdown
-
V4 16
209Little Artless
-
V7 5
210Birch Tree Arete
-
V4 31
211Right Wall
-
V0+ 8
212Big Block Wall
-
V4 16
213Jason's Mantel
-
V7 *6
214Your Basic Mantel
-
V6 35
215Curving Crimps
-
V3 40
216Oak Tree Arete
-
V3 39
217Block Layback
-
V0 35
2187 Ball
-
V5 *182
219Middle Wall
-
V0 68
220Corner Pocket
-
V4 32
221Corner Pocket (low start)
-
V5 9
222Gentle SlabVB 33
223Gentle Rib
-
V0 79
224Gentle Rib sit start
-
V1 49
225The Reach
-
V5 9
226Matterhorn Left Aretef4 31
227Matterhorn LeftV1 109
228Central Groove Thing
-
V2 118
229Matterhorn SlabV0- 10
230Right Matterhorn
-
V0- 118
231Green Arete
-
V0 24
232Dark Hole Crack
-
V3 6
 Pebble Mill 
234Rockfax Fax09 P29V0- 5
235Little Limmock
-
V3 18
236Broddle's Baby
-
V6 5
237Trapped In Crows' Crawsf7A+ *2
238DoddleM 5
239BroddleVS 4c 133
240LimmockHVS 5b *125
241LinoHVS 5a 18
242The Birth of Liquid DesiresHVS 5a 18
243WazzockS 4a *142
244Playing Dangerous
-
E7 7a  
245Pebble MillE5 6b ***162
246Pepper Millf6C+ *21
247Pebble Mill Traversef7A+ *45
248Pepper Linkup
-
V9 1
249We Ain't Gonna Pay No TollE5 6b **7
250We Ain't Gonna Pay No Toll start
-
V4 2
251Midget Tart
-
E5 6b 1
252Micro MillV0+ 9
253Dork ChildE1 5c *32
254Dork Child StartV2 10
255Dork WalkV2 3
256Dork SlabV1 6
257The DorkV1 4
258Goblin
-
D 16
259The Disappearing Bust of Voltaire
-
VS 5a 7
260Voltaire CornerS 4
 David and Goliath 
262Above and Beyond the Kinaesthetic BarrierE4 6b **12
263Samsonf8A *1
264GoliathE4 6a ***136
265Goliath Traverse
-
V4 2
266DavidHVS 4c ***264
267David Traverse
-
f7A *16
268Sling Shot (Burbage South)HVS 5b *19
269MessiahE7 6c ***2
270Messiah Traversef7A *12
271Rollerwallf7C 8
272SaulVS 5b *122
 Unknown Routes and Problems 
274Quarry GullyD 2
275The flake corner start
-
VD 2
276Pigs Make Nests Sit Start *f7C+ 1
277Thick end of the wedge *f8A ***1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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