Gola Island

Climbs 200 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 11m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
A couple of hundred routes on sea cliffs together with a small inland Crag make Gola a great weekend get away. Just watch for the tide before committing yourself to an absail down to sea level. Ask Jimmy the boatman for low/high tide times. The rough is a very rough granite that has the ability to tear rubber from your shoes and skin from your fingers.

There are a number of crags on the island. The names and map reference for the main crags are as follows:

Binatoke Area B759273

Easter Wall B758266

Gripple Wall B763271

Inland Crag B761274

Island Wall and Zawn B757272

Main Wall B760271

Mhachaire na nGall Walls B764271

Narrow Zawn B762271

NW Zawn Area B762275

Owey Wall B758272

Scoilt Uí Dhugáin (Scollydoogan) B763276

South West Corner B755268

South side Buttress B763268

Twin Cave Buttress Area B759272

Johnís Wall B757266

Torglass Island B756266

Climbs are listed from left to right on each crag.

Access notes
Best option is to phone Jimmy Sweeney in advance on 00353-75-31281 for arranging with him to drop you of on the island via his boat Can take about 15-20 people with gear. In the summer tourists also make use of this service so can be competition for boat space. Make sure you book in advance as its not a scheduled service and Jimmy will be able to advise on tide times.

Alternatively for smaller groups, in Summer the Tory ferry also operates from Bunbeg harbour. A phone call to Turasmara 075-31320/31340 and it should be possible to have the boat drop you off at Gola pier (but not at low tide), and hopefully pick you up again in the evening. Asking fishermen randomly at the Bunbeg pier has also proven successful.

Guidebooks
Rock Climbs in Donegal (2013), Rock Climbing in Donegal (2013), Gola island rock climbers guidebook (2013), Colmcille Climbers online GuideBook

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 NORTH WEST ZAWN  
2Vanishing PointE1 5b ***7
3Ghost RoadE1 5b 1
4Shifting skiesVS 4c 1
5Wizard's SleeveE1 5b *3
6Holographic UniverseHVS 5a *1
7The Ubiquitous BlueE1 5b **1
8The Third PolicemanHVS 5a *2
9Smuggling RaisinsHVS 5a 1
10Inscrutability PuffE2 5c **2
11Louse HouseHS 5b 2
 SCOILT Uí DHUGáIN (SCOLLYDOOGAN)  
13TrundlewheelVS 4b *2
14C.U. BurnE1 5a **2
 INLAND CRAG  
16Days of Wine and RosesE1 5b 13
17Get Off the BandwagonVS 4c *2
18Weathered WindowVS 4b 29
19Tasty MorselHVS 5a ***19
20Tongue JobE1 5b **8
21Corner BoyVS 4c *19
22Days of WonderHVS 5a 21
23LegislatorD 30
24GorgonzollaE2 5c **4
25Early Bird Gets the Clap, Second Mouse Gets the CheeseE3 6a **6
26Pigs GardenS 4a 10
 BINATOKE ZAWN  
28Seaside GrooveVD 1
2920 Yards a' Groanin'S 4a 4
30Flirting With The VoidE2 5c ***1
 ISLAND ZAWN  
 OWEY WALL  
 TWIN CAVE BUTTRESS  
34The Cauldron BeneathS 4a 1
35Old SaltS 4a 1
36The PlagiristHS 4b 1
37Kept WomanD ***1
38AsgardE1 5b ***4
39Cois FarraigeHVS 5a ***2
40Flake OutVS 5a **3
 MAIN WALL  
42Gathering MomentumE5 5c 1
43Cormorant CrackHS 4b 2
44Run of the ArrowVS 4b ***14
45Ceol na MaraE2 5c **3
46Galway HookerE4 6a **2
47ShagamorantHVS 5a *3
48Snow DesertHS 4b **1
49Ship WreckedE2 5b 1
50DestitutionE2 5b **4
51Destitution DirectE2 5c **2
52RestitutionE3 5c **1
53Cornered RatsHVS 5b ***7
54SundanceVS 4c *3
55Lunch MoneyHS 4b *3
56Golan HeightsVS 4c **1
57LeopardHVS 5a **1
58ThugVS 5a *6
59An t-OileánachE3 6a *1
60Born Again ClimberE1 5b **8
61SeamonstersHVS 5b *1
62Lonesome BoatmanVS 5a 2
63WaterworldS 1
64Not CQRVS 4c *3
65Anchors AwayHVS 5a *4
66Hexes from HeavenS 4a 6
67Big BootsD 3
68Seventh Wave of a Seventh WaveVS 5a 6
69The Good, The Bad and the UglyE1 5b *5
70The BeautifulHS 4b 2
71The Feast of CanaVD *4
 NARROW ZAWN  
73The Green PoolE1 5b ***3
74GearrachE1 5b *4
75Buzz Light YearHS 4b ***7
76Classic TricouniVS 4b 2
77Sunny Side UpVS 4c *2
78Incut/Little GemHVS 5a *1
 GRIPPLE WALL  
80Muin na MuiceD 2
81Gripple WallVD 5
82Jean A ChevalS 4a *5
83Sea EagleHS 4b 5
84Who Gets the Credit?HVS 5a 4
85Ex Eagle /Big Trip /Island lifeVS 4c 10
86Maid of GolaHS 4b **10
87Pride of GolaS 4a ***23
 MHACHAIRE NA NGALL WALLS  
89CurrachVD 4
90You Forgot the Battery MummyVS 4c *4
91BootlegS 4a 10
92DidEye and ChinfaceS 4a 8
93Speed Of DarknessHS 4a 6
94The MothmanVS 5a 6
 EASTER WALL  
96Hot Cross BunsVD **10
97ResurrectionHS 5
98The GiftE2 5c ***4
99TrinityE1 5c ***7
100Jungle ScreamVS 4c 4
101The PassionHVS 5a **13
102Easter EggVS 3
103BarabasHS 9
104Gadaffy duckS 21
105The Immaculate Conception of BenoitHVS 5a *1
 JOHN'S WALL  
107Reach & GrinVS 4b 1
108For JohnHVS 4c *1
109La GiacondaE1 5b *1
 TORGLASS ISLAND  
 SOUTH WALLS  
 SOUTH WEST CORNER  
113Attila the ThumbHVS 5a *2
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