Gola Island

Climbs 200 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 11m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
A couple of hundred routes on sea cliffs together with a small inland Crag make Gola a great weekend get away. Just watch for the tide before committing yourself to an absail down to sea level. Ask Jimmy the boatman for low/high tide times. The rough is a very rough granite that has the ability to tear rubber from your shoes and skin from your fingers.

There are a number of crags on the island. The names and map reference for the main crags are as follows:

Binatoke Area B759273

Easter Wall B758266

Gripple Wall B763271

Inland Crag B761274

Island Wall and Zawn B757272

Main Wall B760271

Mhachaire na nGall Walls B764271

Narrow Zawn B762271

NW Zawn Area B762275

Owey Wall B758272

Scoilt Uí Dhugáin (Scollydoogan) B763276

South West Corner B755268

South side Buttress B763268

Twin Cave Buttress Area B759272

Johnís Wall B757266

Torglass Island B756266

Climbs are listed from left to right on each crag.

Access notes
Best option is to phone Jimmy Sweeney in advance on 00353-75-31281 for arranging with him to drop you of on the island via his boat Can take about 15-20 people with gear. In the summer tourists also make use of this service so can be competition for boat space. Make sure you book in advance as its not a scheduled service and Jimmy will be able to advise on tide times.

Alternatively for smaller groups, in Summer the Tory ferry also operates from Bunbeg harbour. A phone call to Turasmara 075-31320/31340 and it should be possible to have the boat drop you off at Gola pier (but not at low tide), and hopefully pick you up again in the evening. Asking fishermen randomly at the Bunbeg pier has also proven successful.

Guidebooks
Rock Climbing in Donegal (2013), Gola island rock climbers guidebook (2013), Rock Climbs in Donegal (2013), Colmcille Climbers online GuideBook

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 NORTH WEST ZAWN 
2Vanishing PointE1 5b ***
3Ghost RoadE1 5b
4Shifting skiesVS 4c
5Wizard's SleeveE1 5b *
6Holographic UniverseHVS 5a *
7The Ubiquitous BlueE1 5b **
8The Third PolicemanHVS 5a *
9Smuggling RaisinsHVS 5a
10Inscrutability PuffE2 5c **
11Louse HouseHS 5b
 SCOILT Uí DHUGáIN (SCOLLYDOOGAN) 
13TrundlewheelVS 4b *
14C.U. BurnE1 5a **
 INLAND CRAG 
16Days of Wine and RosesE1 5b
17Get Off the BandwagonVS 4c *
18Weathered WindowVS 4b
19Tasty MorselHVS 5a ***
20Tongue JobE1 5b **
21Corner BoyVS 4c *
22Days of WonderHVS 5a
23LegislatorD
24GorgonzollaE2 5c **
25Early Bird Gets the Clap, Second Mouse Gets the CheeseE3 6a **
26Pigs GardenS 4a
 BINATOKE ZAWN 
28Seaside GrooveVD
2920 Yards a' Groanin'S 4a
30Flirting With The VoidE2 5c ***
 ISLAND ZAWN 
 OWEY WALL 
 TWIN CAVE BUTTRESS 
34The Cauldron BeneathS 4a
35Old SaltS 4a
36The PlagiristHS 4b
37Kept WomanD ***
38AsgardE1 5b ***
39Cois FarraigeHVS 5a ***
40Flake OutVS 5a **
 MAIN WALL 
42Gathering MomentumE5 5c
43Cormorant CrackHS 4b
44Run of the ArrowVS 4b ***
45Ceol na MaraE2 5c **
46Galway HookerE4 6a **
47ShagamorantHVS 5a *
48Snow DesertHS 4b **
49Ship WreckedE2 5b
50DestitutionE2 5b **
51Destitution DirectE2 5c **
52RestitutionE3 5c **
53Cornered RatsHVS 5b ***
54SundanceVS 4c *
55Lunch MoneyHS 4b *
56Golan HeightsVS 4c **
57LeopardHVS 5a **
58ThugVS 5a *
59An t-OileánachE3 6a *
60Born Again ClimberE1 5b **
61SeamonstersHVS 5b *
62Lonesome BoatmanVS 5a
63WaterworldS
64Not CQRVS 4c *
65Anchors AwayHVS 5a *
66Hexes from HeavenS 4a
67Big BootsD
68Seventh Wave of a Seventh WaveVS 5a
69The Good, The Bad and the UglyE1 5b *
70The BeautifulHS 4b
71The Feast of CanaVD *
 NARROW ZAWN 
73The Green PoolE1 5b ***
74GearrachE1 5b *
75Buzz Light YearHS 4b ***
76Classic TricouniVS 4b
77Sunny Side UpVS 4c *
78Incut/Little GemHVS 5a *
 GRIPPLE WALL 
80Muin na MuiceD
81Gripple WallVD
82Jean A ChevalS 4a *
83Sea EagleHS 4b
84Who Gets the Credit?HVS 5a
85Ex Eagle /Big Trip /Island lifeVS 4c
86Maid of GolaHS 4b **
87Pride of GolaS 4a ***
 MHACHAIRE NA NGALL WALLS 
89CurrachVD
90You Forgot the Battery MummyVS 4c *
91BootlegS 4a
92DidEye and ChinfaceS 4a
93Speed Of DarknessHS 4a
94The MothmanVS 5a
 EASTER WALL 
96Hot Cross BunsVD **
97ResurrectionHS
98The GiftE2 5c ***
99TrinityE1 5c ***
100Jungle ScreamVS 4c
101The PassionHVS 5a **
102Easter EggVS
103BarabasHS
104Gadaffy duckS
105The Immaculate Conception of BenoitHVS 5a *
 JOHN'S WALL 
107Reach & GrinVS 4b
108For JohnHVS 4c *
109La GiacondaE1 5b *
 TORGLASS ISLAND 
 SOUTH WALLS 
 SOUTH WEST CORNER 
113Attila the ThumbHVS 5a *
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