Gola Island

Climbs 200 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 11m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
A couple of hundred routes on sea cliffs together with a small inland Crag make Gola a great weekend get away. Just watch for the tide before committing yourself to an absail down to sea level. Ask Jimmy the boatman for low/high tide times. The rough is a very rough granite that has the ability to tear rubber from your shoes and skin from your fingers.

There are a number of crags on the island. The names and map reference for the main crags are as follows:

Binatoke Area B759273

Easter Wall B758266

Gripple Wall B763271

Inland Crag B761274

Island Wall and Zawn B757272

Main Wall B760271

Mhachaire na nGall Walls B764271

Narrow Zawn B762271

NW Zawn Area B762275

Owey Wall B758272

Scoilt Uí Dhugáin (Scollydoogan) B763276

South West Corner B755268

South side Buttress B763268

Twin Cave Buttress Area B759272

John’s Wall B757266

Torglass Island B756266

Climbs are listed from left to right on each crag.

Approach notes
Best option is to phone Jimmy Sweeney in advance on 00353-75-31281 for arranging with him to drop you of on the island via his boat Can take about 15-20 people with gear. In the summer tourists also make use of this service so can be competition for boat space. Make sure you book in advance as its not a scheduled service and Jimmy will be able to advise on tide times.

Alternatively for smaller groups, in Summer the Tory ferry also operates from Bunbeg harbour. A phone call to Turasmara 075-31320/31340 and it should be possible to have the boat drop you off at Gola pier (but not at low tide), and hopefully pick you up again in the evening. Asking fishermen randomly at the Bunbeg pier has also proven successful.

Guidebooks
Rock Climbing in Donegal (2013), Gola island rock climbers guidebook (2013), Rock Climbs in Donegal (2013), Colmcille Climbers online GuideBook

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 NORTH WEST ZAWN  
2Vanishing PointE1 5b ***7
3Ghost RoadE1 5b 1
4Shifting skiesVS 4c 1
5Wizard's SleeveE1 5b *3
6Holographic UniverseHVS 5a *1
7The Ubiquitous BlueE1 5b **1
8The Third PolicemanHVS 5a *2
9Smuggling RaisinsHVS 5a 1
10Inscrutability PuffE2 5c **2
11Louse HouseHS 5b 2
 SCOILT Uí DHUGáIN (SCOLLYDOOGAN)  
13TrundlewheelVS 4b *2
14C.U. BurnE1 5a **2
 INLAND CRAG  
16Days of Wine and RosesE1 5b 14
17Get Off the BandwagonVS 4c *2
18Weathered WindowVS 4b 31
19Tasty MorselHVS 5a ***22
20Tongue JobE1 5b **10
21Corner BoyVS 4c *19
22Days of WonderHVS 5a 23
23LegislatorD 33
24GorgonzollaE2 5c **6
25Early Bird Gets the Clap, Second Mouse Gets the CheeseE3 6a **6
26Pigs GardenS 4a 13
 BINATOKE ZAWN  
28Seaside GrooveVD 1
2920 Yards a' Groanin'S 4a 4
30Flirting With The VoidE2 5c ***1
 ISLAND ZAWN  
32Cormy CornerE2 5b  
 OWEY WALL  
 TWIN CAVE BUTTRESS  
35The Cauldron BeneathS 4a 1
36Old SaltS 4a 1
37The PlagiristHS 4b 1
38Kept WomanD ***1
39AsgardE1 5b ***5
40Cois FarraigeHVS 5a ***2
41Flake OutVS 5a **3
 MAIN WALL  
43Gathering MomentumE5 5c 1
44Cormorant CrackHS 4b 3
45Run of the ArrowVS 4b ***18
46Ceol na MaraE2 5c **4
47Galway HookerE4 6a **2
48ShagamorantHVS 5a *5
49Snow DesertHS 4b **3
50Ship WreckedE2 5b 2
51DestitutionE2 5b **5
52Destitution DirectE2 5c **2
53RestitutionE3 5c **1
54Cornered RatsHVS 5b ***9
55SundanceVS 4c *4
56Lunch MoneyHS 4b *4
57Golan HeightsVS 4c **3
58LeopardHVS 5a **2
59ThugVS 5a *7
60An t-OileánachE3 6a *1
61Born Again ClimberE1 5b **9
62SeamonstersHVS 5b *2
63Lonesome BoatmanVS 5a 2
64WaterworldS 2
65Not CQRVS 4c *3
66Anchors AwayHVS 5a *6
67Hexes from HeavenS 4a 6
68Big BootsD 3
69Seventh Wave of a Seventh WaveVS 5a 8
70The Good, The Bad and the UglyE1 5b *6
71The BeautifulHS 4b 2
72The Feast of CanaVD *4
 NARROW ZAWN  
74The Green PoolE1 5b ***4
75GearrachE1 5b *6
76Buzz Light YearHS 4b ***10
77Classic TricouniVS 4b 4
78Sunny Side UpVS 4c *2
79Incut/Little GemHVS 5a *1
 GRIPPLE WALL  
81Muin na MuiceD 3
82Gripple WallVD 5
83Jean A ChevalS 4a *5
84Sea EagleHS 4b 6
85Who Gets the Credit?HVS 5a 6
86Ex Eagle /Big Trip /Island lifeVS 4c 11
87Maid of GolaHS 4b **12
88Pride of GolaS 4a ***27
 MHACHAIRE NA NGALL WALLS  
90CurrachVD 6
91You Forgot the Battery MummyVS 4c *4
92Whoops JonnyHS 4a 1
93BootlegS 4a 10
94DidEye and ChinfaceS 4a 10
95Speed Of DarknessHS 4a 6
96The MothmanVS 5a 6
 EASTER WALL  
98Hot Cross BunsVD **10
99ResurrectionHS 6
100The GiftE2 5c ***5
101The Immaculate Conception of BenoitHVS 5a *1
102Gadaffy duckS 22
103BarabasHS 10
104The AngelasHS 4b 1
105Easter EggVS 3
106The PassionHVS 5a **14
107Jungle ScreamVS 4c 5
108Karin's LineE3 5c 1
109TrinityE1 5c ***8
 JOHN'S WALL  
111Reach & GrinVS 4b 1
112For JohnHVS 4c *1
113La GiacondaE1 5b *1
 TORGLASS ISLAND  
 SOUTH WALLS  
 SOUTH WEST CORNER  
117Attila the ThumbHVS 5a *2
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