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These details were last updated on 15/Nov/2012

Hen Cloud

Staffordshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 165 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 370m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Simply marvellous, home to some of the longest routes on grit, yet often overlooked because the Roaches is nearer the road. Great climbs at every grade; a confident approach pays dividends. Single- and multi-pitch climbs up to 36m (straight up!). Unmissable: Central Climb (HS 4a), Bachelor's Left Hand (HVS 5a), Encouragement (E1 5b 5b), Comedian (E3 6a), Caricature (E5 6a), and all the E6s and E7s...

Sometimes green - but often looks worse that it actually is. The former stamping ground of Joe Brown and especially Don Whillans, which is all the warning you'll get.

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 
     
Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales – Met Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Staffordshire Gritstone, The Roaches (2009), Western Grit (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003), Staffordshire Gritstone (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 AGUILETTE  
2Starlight Leftf6B+ *24
3Starlight and Stormf6C+ ***3
4Simon's Slabf7A+ ** 
5The AiguilletteHS 4c *11
6Zoom WallVS 5a 5
 PINNACLES  
8Nutted by RealityE1 6a *5
9SlipstreamsHVS 5a 3
10Little Pinnacle ClimbVD 4
11November CracksS 4a *16
12BulwarkE1 5b ***26
13SlowhandE1 5b **37
14MindbridgeE7 6c  
15Master of RealityE6 6c ***5
16Master of PuppetsE6 6b *1
17The NotchVS 4c 5
18Chicken DirectE4 6b  
19ChickenE1 5a **32
20PulletE1 5b * 
21Piston GrooveVS 5a 1
22Man Oh ManE4 6a * 
23MandatoryE5 6a *1
24The MandrakeE5 6a *1
25MandrillE5 6b * 
26VictoryVS 4c 7
27Green CornerS 4a 4
28Blood BlistersE5 6b *1
29Electric ChairE2 5c **11
30Bad JokeE3 5c **7
31Trap Door FinishE4 5c *1
32GallowsE2 5b *3
33SandcastlesE4 5c 2
34Recess ChimneyVD 8
35Black Eyed DogE6 6b **2
36The SorcererE3 6a *1
37High Tensile CrackE1 5b *7
38Just in TimeE5 6c *1
 BLACK WALL  
40Buster the CatHVS 5b 1
41PugVS 4c 2
42A Flabby CrackE6 6c *1
43The Stone LoachE5 6b **3
44MyxiE6 6c **1
45AnthraxE3 5c *1
46The LumHVS 4c 4
47ScrumptiousE4 6b *1
48Bantam CrackVS 4c *7
49Alan WhickerV4 6b 1
 CAESARIAN  
51Chockstone CrackM 6
52The Better EndE2 5c **7
53Blizzard ButtressHVS 4c ** 
54The RaidE4 6a * 
55En RappelHVS 5a **20
56CaesarianE4 6b ***9
57CatharsisE7 7a **1
58Pumpy But PointlessE1 5c *1
59Main CrackVS 4c *14
60DelstreeHVS 5a ***133
61LevitationE5 6a ** 
62Reunion CrackVS 4c **60
63Slab WayM *3
 CENTRAL  
65The PinchE1 5c 1
66The ApeE1 5b  
67The Monkey in Your SoulE3 5c  
68Press on RegardlessE2 5b * 
69Roof ClimbVS 4b *60
70The Long and ShortE1 5b *5
71AnacondaE4 6b ** 
72Borstal BreakoutE4 6b ***10
73Final CrackHS 4b **3
74Central Climb DirectVS 5a **76
75B4, XSE7 6b ***3
76Central ClimbVS 4c ***529
777 of 9VS 5a 3
78EncouragementE1 5b ***76
79Jean The BeanE5 6b * 
80K2S 4b *375
81The AreteVD **353
 MODERN  
83Easy ComeHS 4b 3
84Arete WallVS 4b 20
85Easy GullyM 20
86Prayers, Poems & PromisesE1 5b *1
87ModernS 4a **238
88AncientVD *118
 BOW BUTRESS  
 Climb nameGradex
90Small ButtressHVS 5a 10
91BitchingHVS 5b *17
92Bow ButtressVD *40
93The Driven BowE7 6c *4
94Solid GeometryE1 5b **49
 BACHELORS WALL  
96Problem 0V0 5a **7
97Left veinV2 (5c) **13
98Right VeinV2 6a *1
99Stokes' LineE1 6b *2
100This PoisonE3 6b * 
101SlimlineE1 5b *23
102Peter and the WolfE6 6b *1
103Fast PipingE4 6b *2
104Hedgehog CrackVS 4c **102
105ComedianE3 5c ***33
106Frayed NerveE5 6a *1
107Second's RetreatHVS 4c 10
108Second's AdvanceHVS 5b *16
109CorinthianE3 5c ***26
110Hen Cloud EliminateE1 5b ***149
111Cool FoolE6 6b **1
112Rib CrackVS 4c *7
113Rib ChimneyS 4a **87
114CaricatureE5 6b ***1
115Caricature DirectE6 6b ***2
116ChiaroscuroE7 6b **1
117Bachelor's Left-handHVS 5b ***226
118Parallel LinesE6 6c * 
119Bachelor's ClimbVS 4c ***183
120Space ProbeE4 6a **2
121Night ProwlerE6 6a **1
 GREAT CHIMNEY  
123Great ChimneyS 4a ***388
124Rainbow CrackVS 5a ***218
125ArêtenophobiaE6 6b ** 
126The Midlanderf7A+ **1
127ChameleonE4 6a ***11
128SariaE5 6a * 
129Left Twin CrackHS 4a *32
130Right Twin CrackVS 4b *20
131DesperadoE5 6b 1
132The Last Great ProblemXS *** 
133Footpath ChimneyVD *4
134Just ThirteenVS 5a *2
135Thompson's Buttress Route 1S 4a *77
136Thompson's Buttress Route 2HVD 45
137Tree ChimneyVD 16
138Pinnacle FaceHVS 4c *20
139Face ValueHVS 5a 2
140Pinnacle RibHVS 5a 13
 BOXING GLOVES  
142Diagonal RouteVD 14
143Pete's Back SideHVS 5a 3
144Flourescent SquidV4 * 
145JellyfishE4 5c *1
146Central TowerVD 8
147Heart of GoldE2 5c **12
148The DeceiverVS 4b *5
149TouchE4 6c *7
 FAR RIGHT  
151Ginger BiscuitVS 4
152GingerbreadHS 4a 2
 LOWER CRAGS  
154BordelloE3 5c **3
155Fire Down BelowVS 5a 2
156Boysen's AreteE2 6a *1
157The Young PretenderE8 6c ** 
158Short Man's MiseryHVS 5a 3
159Crispin's CrackHVS 5a 7
160Duck SoupHVS 4c *2
161Micks MetaphorE1 5c **4
 THE WOOD  
163Mad LinesE1 5b 3
164SpacepubeVD 6
165Pluto's RingE1 5c 2
166Jetez le PantalonE2 5b 3
167The Chapelf6C ** 
168The Nutcracker *S 4a 2
169Triumph of the Good City *HVS 5b *1
170Flexure Line *HVS 6a 1
171Stationary Celtic Compass Points *HS 4a *3
172Songs Of Praise *E2 5c 1
173Pre Cam Brian *E5 6a * 
174Dive In The Fifth *E4 6a * 
175Ankle Biter *E2 5c * 
176Rastaman Spars With Babylon On His Bike *E3 5c * 
177Rope a Dope *E2 5c * 
178Knuckle Sandwich *V3 6a ** 

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Occasional bird bans. Peak National Park property.

>From the A53 Leek-Buxton road turn off as for the Roaches. Park at the gateway through the barrier of trees (without blocking the gate - tractors chew up cars) and walk along the dirt track. This takes you to Central Climb.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
This really is a fabulous crag, and often over-looked in favour of its more famous neighbour the Roaches. Quality routes on solid rock in a beautiful setting, away from the crowds and outdoor instruction groups. Some great 3-star routes including Delstree, Central Climb, Encouragement, Hen Cloud Eliminate, and probably the best HVS route I've *ever* been on - Bachelor's Left-hand!
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04

Just got back from Hen Cloud and am very impressed, quality of rock is excellant and there's hardly anyone ever around, just one problem, those bastard midges, they bite and itching is unbearable, i look like i've got measles, so insect repellant is a must, Happy Climbing!
Adam Waszkiewicz - 28/Aug/03

Great Chimney 18m (Eliminate Area)- is a fantastic route for those learning to lead.(***) Easy to advise on gear placements from top or bottom, plus the magnificently formed chimney structure makes it stand out from any other S grade climb on gritstone that i can think of. I just wish it was longer!
Max Linnemann - 08/Feb/02