Hen Cloud

Climbs 168 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 370m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Simply marvellous, home to some of the longest routes on grit, yet often overlooked because the Roaches is nearer the road. Great climbs at every grade; a confident approach pays dividends. Single- and multi-pitch climbs up to 36m (straight up!). Unmissable: Central Climb (HS 4a), Bachelor's Left Hand (HVS 5a), Encouragement (E1 5b 5b), Comedian (E3 6a), Caricature (E5 6a), and all the E6s and E7s...

Sometimes green - but often looks worse that it actually is. The former stamping ground of Joe Brown and especially Don Whillans, which is all the warning you'll get.

Access notes
Occasional bird bans, usually spring to early summer. See access notes below. Parking available in designated bays only beneath the crag; do not park outside of the bays in the restriction zone -- you will get a ticket. If it's really full, careful parking on the road is permitted outside of the restriction zone (towards Upper Hulme).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), Staffordshire Gritstone, The Roaches (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003), Staffordshire Gritstone (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 AGUILETTE 
2Starlight Leftf6B+ *
3Starlight and Stormf6C+ ***
4Simon's Slabf7A+ **
5The AiguilletteHS 4c *
6Zoom WallVS 5a
 PINNACLES 
8Nutted by RealityE1 6a *
9SlipstreamsHVS 5a
10Little Pinnacle ClimbVD
11November CracksS 4a *
12BulwarkE1 5b ***
13SlowhandE1 5b **
14MindbridgeE7 6c
15Master of RealityE6 6c ***
16Master of PuppetsE6 6b *
17The NotchVS 4c
18Chicken DirectE4 6b
19ChickenE1 5a **
20PulletE1 5b *
21Piston GrooveVS 5a
22Man Oh ManE4 6a *
23MandatoryE5 6a *
24The MandrakeE5 6a *
25MandrillE5 6b *
26VictoryVS 4c
27Green CornerS 4a
28Blood BlistersE5 6b *
29Electric ChairE2 5c **
30Bad JokeE3 5c **
31Trap Door FinishE4 5c *
32GallowsE2 5b *
33SandcastlesE4 5c
34Recess ChimneyVD
35Black Eyed DogE6 6b **
36The SorcererE3 6a *
37High Tensile CrackE1 5b *
38Just in TimeE5 6c *
 BLACK WALL 
40Buster the CatHVS 5b
41PugVS 4c
42A Flabby CrackE6 6c *
43The Stone LoachE5 6b **
44MyxiE6 6c **
45AnthraxE3 5c *
46The LumHVS 4c
47ScrumptiousE4 6b *
48Bantam CrackVS 4c *
49Alan WhickerV4 6b
 CAESARIAN 
51Chockstone CrackM
52The Better EndE2 5c **
53Blizzard ButtressHVS 4c **
54The RaidE4 6a *
55En RappelHVS 5a **
56CaesarianE4 6b ***
57CatharsisE7 7a **
58Pumpy But PointlessE1 5c *
59Main CrackVS 4c *
60DelstreeHVS 5a ***
61LevitationE5 6a **
62Reunion CrackVS 4c **
63Slab WayM *
 CENTRAL 
65The PinchE1 5c
66The ApeE1 5b
67The Monkey in Your SoulE3 5c
68Press on RegardlessE2 5b *
69Roof ClimbVS 4b *
70The Long and ShortE1 5b *
71AnacondaE4 6b **
72Borstal BreakoutE4 6b ***
73Final CrackHS 4b **
74Central Climb DirectVS 5a **
75B4, XSE7 6b ***
76Central ClimbVS 4c ***
777 of 9VS 5a
78EncouragementE1 5b ***
79Jean The BeanE5 6b *
80K2S 4b *
81The AreteVD **
 MODERN 
83Easy ComeHS 4b
84Arete WallVS 4b
85Easy GullyM
86Songs Of PraiseE2 5c
87Prayers, Poems & PromisesE1 5b *
88ModernS 4a **
89AncientVD *
 BOW BUTRESS 
91Small ButtressHVS 5a
92BitchingHVS 5b *
93Bow ButtressVD *
94The Driven BowE7 6c *
95Solid GeometryE1 5b **
 BACHELORS WALL 
97Problem 0V0 5a **
98Left veinV2 (5c) **
99Right VeinV2 6a *
100Stokes' LineE1 6b *
101This PoisonE3 6b *
102SlimlineE1 5b *
103Peter and the WolfE6 6b *
104Fast PipingE5 6b *
105Hedgehog CrackVS 4c **
106ComedianE3 5c ***
107Frayed NerveE5 6a *
108Second's RetreatHVS 4c
109Second's AdvanceHVS 5b *
110CorinthianE3 5c ***
111Hen Cloud EliminateE1 5b ***
112Cool FoolE6 6b **
113Rib CrackVS 4c *
114Rib ChimneyS 4a **
115CaricatureE5 6b ***
116Caricature DirectE6 6b ***
117ChiaroscuroE7 6b **
118Bachelor's Left-handHVS 5b ***
119Parallel LinesE6 6c *
120Bachelor's ClimbVS 4c ***
121Space ProbeE4 6a **
122Night ProwlerE6 6a **
 GREAT CHIMNEY 
124Great ChimneyS 4a ***
125Rainbow CrackVS 5a ***
126ArêtenophobiaE6 6b **
127The Midlanderf7A+ **
128ChameleonE4 6a ***
129SariaE5 6a *
130Left Twin CrackHS 4a *
131Right Twin CrackVS 4b *
132DesperadoE5 6b
133The Last Great ProblemXS ***
134Dead Banana SlabHVS 5c
135Footpath ChimneyVD *
136Just ThirteenVS 5a *
137Thompson's Buttress Route 1S 4a *
138Thompson's Buttress Route 2HVD
139Tree ChimneyVD
140Pinnacle FaceHVS 4c *
141Face ValueHVS 5a
142Pinnacle RibHVS 5a
 BOXING GLOVES 
144Diagonal RouteVD
145Pete's Back SideHVS 5a
146Flourescent SquidV4 *
147JellyfishE4 5c *
148Central TowerVD
149Heart of GoldE2 5c **
150The DeceiverVS 4b *
151TouchE4 6c *
 FAR RIGHT 
153Ginger BiscuitVS
154GingerbreadHS 4a
 LOWER CRAGS 
156BordelloE3 5c **
157Fire Down BelowVS 5a
158Boysen's AreteE2 6a *
159The Young PretenderE8 6c **
160Short Man's MiseryHVS 5a
161Crispin's CrackHVS 5a
162Duck SoupHVS 4c *
163Micks MetaphorE1 5c **
 THE WOOD 
165Mad LinesE1 5b
166SpacepubeVD
167Pluto's RingE1 5c
168Jetez le PantalonE2 5b
169The Chapelf6C **
170The Nutcracker *S 4a
171Triumph of the Good City *HVS 5b *
172Flexure Line *HVS 6a
173Stationary Celtic Compass Points *HS 4a *
174Pre Cam Brian *E5 6a *
175Dive In The Fifth *E4 6a *
176Ankle Biter *E2 5c *
177Rastaman Spars With Babylon On His Bike *E3 5c *
178Rope a Dope *E2 5c *
179Knuckle Sandwich *V3 6a **
180Hal's Ridge *VD
181Short n Sharp *E1 5c
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Jon Read

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
This really is a fabulous crag, and often over-looked in favour of its more famous neighbour the Roaches. Quality routes on solid rock in a beautiful setting, away from the crowds and outdoor instruction groups. Some great 3-star routes including Delstree, Central Climb, Encouragement, Hen Cloud Eliminate, and probably the best HVS route I've *ever* been on - Bachelor's Left-hand!
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04
Just got back from Hen Cloud and am very impressed, quality of rock is excellant and there's hardly anyone ever around, just one problem, those bastard midges, they bite and itching is unbearable, i look like i've got measles, so insect repellant is a must, Happy Climbing!
Adam Waszkiewicz - 28/Aug/03
Great Chimney 18m (Eliminate Area)- is a fantastic route for those learning to lead.(***) Easy to advise on gear placements from top or bottom, plus the magnificently formed chimney structure makes it stand out from any other S grade climb on gritstone that i can think of. I just wish it was longer!
Max Linnemann - 08/Feb/02
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 07/May/2014
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