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These details were last updated on 07/May/2014

Hen Cloud

Staffordshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 168 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 370m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Simply marvellous, home to some of the longest routes on grit, yet often overlooked because the Roaches is nearer the road. Great climbs at every grade; a confident approach pays dividends. Single- and multi-pitch climbs up to 36m (straight up!). Unmissable: Central Climb (HS 4a), Bachelor's Left Hand (HVS 5a), Encouragement (E1 5b 5b), Comedian (E3 6a), Caricature (E5 6a), and all the E6s and E7s...

Sometimes green - but often looks worse that it actually is. The former stamping ground of Joe Brown and especially Don Whillans, which is all the warning you'll get.

Access notes
Occasional bird bans, usually spring to early summer. See access notes below. Parking available in designated bays only beneath the crag; do not park outside of the bays in the restriction zone -- you will get a ticket. If it's really full, careful parking on the road is permitted outside of the restriction zone (towards Upper Hulme).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Wed  Thu  Fri  Sat 

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
18 °C
16 kph

0.4mm rain
Cloudy
13 °C
17 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
13 °C
13 kph

1.0mm rain
Cloudy
15 °C
30 kph

9.4mm rain
Sun
11 °C
21 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Staffordshire Gritstone, The Roaches (2009), Western Grit (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003), Staffordshire Gritstone (1989)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
 AGUILETTE  
2Starlight Leftf6B+ *28
3Starlight and Stormf6C+ ***5
4Simon's Slabf7A+ ** 
5The AiguilletteHS 4c *14
6Zoom WallVS 5a 5
 PINNACLES  
8Nutted by RealityE1 6a *5
9SlipstreamsHVS 5a 3
10Little Pinnacle ClimbVD 7
11November CracksS 4a *17
12BulwarkE1 5b ***30
13SlowhandE1 5b **47
14MindbridgeE7 6c  
15Master of RealityE6 6c ***7
16Master of PuppetsE6 6b *1
17The NotchVS 4c 6
18Chicken DirectE4 6b  
19ChickenE1 5a **39
20PulletE1 5b * 
21Piston GrooveVS 5a 3
22Man Oh ManE4 6a * 
23MandatoryE5 6a *1
24The MandrakeE5 6a *1
25MandrillE5 6b * 
26VictoryVS 4c 9
27Green CornerS 4a 6
28Blood BlistersE5 6b *1
29Electric ChairE2 5c **13
30Bad JokeE3 5c **7
31Trap Door FinishE4 5c *1
32GallowsE2 5b *3
33SandcastlesE4 5c 2
34Recess ChimneyVD 9
35Black Eyed DogE6 6b **2
36The SorcererE3 6a *1
37High Tensile CrackE1 5b *7
38Just in TimeE5 6c *1
 BLACK WALL  
40Buster the CatHVS 5b 1
41PugVS 4c 3
42A Flabby CrackE6 6c *1
43The Stone LoachE5 6b **5
44MyxiE6 6c **1
45AnthraxE3 5c *1
46The LumHVS 4c 4
47ScrumptiousE4 6b *1
48Bantam CrackVS 4c *9
49Alan WhickerV4 6b 1
 CAESARIAN  
51Chockstone CrackM 10
52The Better EndE2 5c **8
53Blizzard ButtressHVS 4c ** 
54The RaidE4 6a * 
55En RappelHVS 5a **35
56CaesarianE4 6b ***11
57CatharsisE7 7a **1
58Pumpy But PointlessE1 5c *1
59Main CrackVS 4c *27
60DelstreeHVS 5a ***168
61LevitationE5 6a ** 
62Reunion CrackVS 4c **83
63Slab WayM *4
 CENTRAL  
65The PinchE1 5c 1
66The ApeE1 5b  
67The Monkey in Your SoulE3 5c 1
68Press on RegardlessE2 5b * 
69Roof ClimbVS 4b *72
70The Long and ShortE1 5b *7
71AnacondaE4 6b **1
72Borstal BreakoutE4 6b ***10
73Final CrackHS 4b **3
74Central Climb DirectVS 5a **89
75B4, XSE7 6b ***5
76Central ClimbVS 4c ***628
777 of 9VS 5a 3
78EncouragementE1 5b ***91
79Jean The BeanE5 6b * 
80K2S 4b *445
81The AreteVD **414
 MODERN  
83Easy ComeHS 4b 4
84Arete WallVS 4b 24
85Easy GullyM 22
86Songs Of PraiseE2 5c 1
87Prayers, Poems & PromisesE1 5b *1
88ModernS 4a **292
89AncientVD *134
 BOW BUTRESS  
91Small ButtressHVS 5a 11
 Climb nameGradex
92BitchingHVS 5b *20
93Bow ButtressVD *52
94The Driven BowE7 6c *7
95Solid GeometryE1 5b **55
 BACHELORS WALL  
97Problem 0V0 5a **8
98Left veinV2 (5c) **15
99Right VeinV2 6a *3
100Stokes' LineE1 6b *3
101This PoisonE3 6b * 
102SlimlineE1 5b *34
103Peter and the WolfE6 6b *1
104Fast PipingE4 6b *2
105Hedgehog CrackVS 4c **127
106ComedianE3 5c ***37
107Frayed NerveE5 6a *2
108Second's RetreatHVS 4c 23
109Second's AdvanceHVS 5b *19
110CorinthianE3 5c ***31
111Hen Cloud EliminateE1 5b ***182
112Cool FoolE6 6b **1
113Rib CrackVS 4c *7
114Rib ChimneyS 4a **113
115CaricatureE5 6b ***3
116Caricature DirectE6 6b ***2
117ChiaroscuroE7 6b **1
118Bachelor's Left-handHVS 5b ***288
119Parallel LinesE6 6c * 
120Bachelor's ClimbVS 4c ***235
121Space ProbeE4 6a **2
122Night ProwlerE6 6a **2
 GREAT CHIMNEY  
124Great ChimneyS 4a ***488
125Rainbow CrackVS 5a ***255
126ArêtenophobiaE6 6b ** 
127The Midlanderf7A+ **1
128ChameleonE4 6a ***15
129SariaE5 6a * 
130Left Twin CrackHS 4a *39
131Right Twin CrackVS 4b *28
132DesperadoE5 6b 1
133The Last Great ProblemXS *** 
134Dead Banana SlabHVS 5c 1
135Footpath ChimneyVD *6
136Just ThirteenVS 5a *2
137Thompson's Buttress Route 1S 4a *98
138Thompson's Buttress Route 2HVD 57
139Tree ChimneyVD 26
140Pinnacle FaceHVS 4c *26
141Face ValueHVS 5a 2
142Pinnacle RibHVS 5a 19
 BOXING GLOVES  
144Diagonal RouteVD 17
145Pete's Back SideHVS 5a 3
146Flourescent SquidV4 * 
147JellyfishE4 5c *1
148Central TowerVD 9
149Heart of GoldE2 5c **13
150The DeceiverVS 4b *5
151TouchE4 6c *12
 FAR RIGHT  
153Ginger BiscuitVS 5
154GingerbreadHS 4a 2
 LOWER CRAGS  
156BordelloE3 5c **3
157Fire Down BelowVS 5a 2
158Boysen's AreteE2 6a *1
159The Young PretenderE8 6c ** 
160Short Man's MiseryHVS 5a 3
161Crispin's CrackHVS 5a 7
162Duck SoupHVS 4c *2
163Micks MetaphorE1 5c **6
 THE WOOD  
165Mad LinesE1 5b 4
166SpacepubeVD 8
167Pluto's RingE1 5c 2
168Jetez le PantalonE2 5b 3
169The Chapelf6C ** 
170The Nutcracker *S 4a 3
171Triumph of the Good City *HVS 5b *1
172Flexure Line *HVS 6a 1
173Stationary Celtic Compass Points *HS 4a *6
174Pre Cam Brian *E5 6a * 
175Dive In The Fifth *E4 6a * 
176Ankle Biter *E2 5c * 
177Rastaman Spars With Babylon On His Bike *E3 5c * 
178Rope a Dope *E2 5c * 
179Knuckle Sandwich *V3 6a ** 
180Hal's Ridge *VD 2
181Short n Sharp *E1 5c  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
This really is a fabulous crag, and often over-looked in favour of its more famous neighbour the Roaches. Quality routes on solid rock in a beautiful setting, away from the crowds and outdoor instruction groups. Some great 3-star routes including Delstree, Central Climb, Encouragement, Hen Cloud Eliminate, and probably the best HVS route I've *ever* been on - Bachelor's Left-hand!
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04

Just got back from Hen Cloud and am very impressed, quality of rock is excellant and there's hardly anyone ever around, just one problem, those bastard midges, they bite and itching is unbearable, i look like i've got measles, so insect repellant is a must, Happy Climbing!
Adam Waszkiewicz - 28/Aug/03

Great Chimney 18m (Eliminate Area)- is a fantastic route for those learning to lead.(***) Easy to advise on gear placements from top or bottom, plus the magnificently formed chimney structure makes it stand out from any other S grade climb on gritstone that i can think of. I just wish it was longer!
Max Linnemann - 08/Feb/02