Hen Cloud

Climbs 177 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 370m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Simply marvellous, home to some of the longest routes on grit, yet often overlooked because the Roaches is nearer the road. Great climbs at every grade; a confident approach pays dividends. Single- and multi-pitch climbs up to 36m (straight up!). Unmissable: Central Climb (HS 4a), Bachelor's Left Hand (HVS 5a), Encouragement (E1 5b 5b), Comedian (E3 6a), Caricature (E5 6a), and all the E6s and E7s...

Sometimes green - but often looks worse that it actually is. The former stamping ground of Joe Brown and especially Don Whillans, which is all the warning you'll get.

Approach notes
Occasional bird bans, usually spring to early summer. See access notes below. Parking available in designated bays only beneath the crag; do not park outside of the bays in the restriction zone -- you will get a ticket. If it's really full, careful parking on the road is permitted outside of the restriction zone (towards Upper Hulme).


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), Staffordshire Gritstone, The Roaches (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003), Staffordshire Gritstone (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 AGUILETTE  
2Starlight Leftf6B+ *31
3Starlight and Stormf6C+ ***5
4Simon's Slabf7A+ ** 
5The AiguilletteHS 4c *16
6Zoom WallVS 5a 5
 PINNACLES  
8Nutted by RealityE1 6a *5
9SlipstreamsHVS 5a 3
10Little Pinnacle ClimbVD 7
11November CracksS 4a *17
12BulwarkE1 5b ***31
13SlowhandE1 5b **47
14MindbridgeE7 6c  
15Master of RealityE6 6c ***7
16Master of PuppetsE6 6b *1
17The NotchVS 4c 6
18Chicken DirectE4 6b  
19ChickenE1 5a **40
20PulletE1 5b * 
21Piston GrooveVS 5a 3
22Man Oh ManE4 6a * 
23MandatoryE5 6a *1
24The MandrakeE5 6a *1
25MandrillE5 6b * 
26VictoryVS 4c 9
27Short 'n SharpE1 5c  
28Green CornerS 4a 6
29Blood BlistersE4 6b *1
30Electric ChairE2 5c *13
31Bad JokeE4 5c *7
32Trap Door FinishE4 5c *1
33GallowsE2 5b *3
34SandcastlesE4 5c 2
35Recess ChimneyVD 9
36Black Eyed DogE6 6b **2
37The SorcererE3 6a *1
38High Tensile CrackHVS 5b 7
39Just in TimeE5 6c *1
 BLACK WALL  
41Buster the CatHVS 5b 1
42PugVS 4c 3
43A Flabby CrackE6 6c **1
44The Stone LoachE5 6b **5
45MyxiE6 6c **2
46AnthraxE3 5c *2
47The LumHVS 4c 4
48ScrumptiousE4 6b *1
49Bantam CrackVS 4c *12
50Alan WhickerV4 6b 1
 CAESARIAN  
52Chockstone CrackM 10
53The Better EndE2 5c **8
54Blizzard ButtressHVS 4c ** 
55The RaidE4 6a * 
56En RappelHVS 5a **41
57CaesarianE4 6b ***11
58CatharsisE7 7a **1
59Pumpy But PointlessE1 5c *1
60Main CrackVS 4c *32
61DelstreeHVS 5a ***182
62LevitationE5 6a  
63Reunion CrackVS 4c **92
64Slab WayM *4
 CENTRAL  
66The PinchE1 5c 1
67The ApeE1 5b  
68The Monkey in Your SoulE3 5c 1
69Press on RegardlessE2 5b * 
70Roof ClimbVS 4b *76
71The Long and ShortE1 5b *8
72AnacondaE4 6b **1
73Borstal BreakoutE4 6b ***11
74Final CrackHS 4b **7
75Pointless PeregrinationHVS 5b *2
76Central Climb DirectVS 5a **97
77B4, XSE7 6b ***5
78Central ClimbVS 4c ***679
797 of 9VS 5a 3
80EncouragementE1 5b ***96
81Jean The BeanE5 6b * 
82K2S 4b *479
83The AreteVD **442
 MODERN  
85Easy ComeHS 4b 4
86Arete WallVS 4b 24
87Easy GullyM 22
88Songs Of PraiseE2 5c 1
89Prayers, Poems & PromisesE1 5b *1
90Flexure LineHVS 6a 1
91ModernS 4a *313
92AncientVD *143
 BOW BUTRESS  
94Small ButtressHVS 11
95BitchingE1 5b 22
96Bow ButtressVD *60
97The Driven BowE7 6c *7
98Solid GeometryE1 5b *59
 BACHELORS WALL  
100Problem 0V0 5a **11
101Left veinf5+ 5c **16
102Right VeinV2 6a *6
103Stokes' LineE1 6b *3
104This PoisonE3 6b * 
105SlimlineE1 5b *39
106Peter and the WolfE6 6b *1
107Fast PipingE4 6b *3
108Hedgehog CrackVS 4c **139
109ComedianE3 5c ***37
110Frayed NerveE5 6b *2
111Second's RetreatHVS 4c 27
112Second's AdvanceHVS 5b *24
113CorinthianE3 5c ***31
114Hen Cloud EliminateE1 5b ***205
115Cool FoolE6 6b 1
116Rib CrackVS 4c *7
117Rib ChimneyS 4a **121
118CaricatureE5 6b ***3
119Caricature DirectE6 6b ***2
120ChiaroscuroE6 6b 1
121Bachelor's Left-handHVS 5b ***308
122Parallel LinesE6 6c * 
123Bachelor's ClimbVS 4c ***260
124Space ProbeE4 6a **2
125Night ProwlerE6 6a **2
 GREAT CHIMNEY  
127Great ChimneyS 4a ***545
128Rainbow CrackVS 5a ***286
129Pre Cam BrianE5 6a  
130ArętenophobiaE6 6b ** 
131The Midlanderf7A+ 1
132ChameleonE4 6a ***16
133SariaE5 6a * 
134Left Twin CrackHS 4a *46
135Right Twin CrackVS 4b *31
136DesperadoE5 6b 1
137The Last Great ProblemXS *** 
138Dead Banana SlabHVS 5c 2
139Footpath ChimneyVD *6
140Just ThirteenVS 5a *2
 THE INACCESSIBLE PINNACLE  
142Ankle BiterE2 5c * 
143Thompson's Buttress Route 1S 4a *110
144Thompson's Buttress Route 2HVD 61
145Professor CalculusE2 5c * 
146Tree ChimneyVD 28
147Pinnacle FaceHVS 4c *28
148Face ValueHVS 5a 3
149Pinnacle RibHVS 5a 19
 BOXING GLOVES  
151Rastaman Spars With Babylon On His BikeE3 5c * 
152Diagonal RouteVD 17
153Triumph of the Good CityHVS 5b *1
154Flourescent SquidV4 * 
155JellyfishE4 5c *1
156Dive In The FifthE4 6a * 
157Pete's Back SideHVS 5a 3
158Central TowerVD 9
159Knuckle SandwichV3 6a * 
160Rope a DopeE2 5c * 
161The NutcrackerS 4a 3
162Heart of GoldE2 5c **13
163The DeceiverVS 4b *5
164TouchE4 6c **12
 FAR RIGHT  
166Ginger BiscuitVS 5
167GingerbreadHS 4a 2
 LOWER CRAGS  
169BordelloE3 5c **3
170Fire Down BelowVS 5a 2
171Boysen's AreteE2 6a *1
172The Young PretenderE8 6c ** 
173Hal's RidgeVD 2
174Short Man's MiseryHVS 5a 3
175Crispin's CrackHVS 5a 7
176Duck SoupHVS 4c *3
177Micks MetaphorE1 5c **6
 THE WOOD  
179Mad LinesE1 5b 4
180SpacepubeVD 10
181Pluto's RingE1 5c 2
182Jetez le PantalonE2 5b 3
183The Chapelf6C ** 
 VERY FAR RIGHT  
185TobleroneV7 **1
 UNVERIFIED ROUTES  
187Stationary Celtic Compass PointsHS 4a *6
188Hedgehog Crack Lefthand FinishHVS 5b 1
189DelusionHS 4a 1
190QuantasE1 5b  
191Short SideV0 5a 1
192Even Smaller ButtressHVS 5a  
193Cold SweatE1 5b  
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
This really is a fabulous crag, and often over-looked in favour of its more famous neighbour the Roaches. Quality routes on solid rock in a beautiful setting, away from the crowds and outdoor instruction groups. Some great 3-star routes including Delstree, Central Climb, Encouragement, Hen Cloud Eliminate, and probably the best HVS route I've *ever* been on - Bachelor's Left-hand!
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04
Just got back from Hen Cloud and am very impressed, quality of rock is excellant and there's hardly anyone ever around, just one problem, those bastard midges, they bite and itching is unbearable, i look like i've got measles, so insect repellant is a must, Happy Climbing!
Adam Waszkiewicz - 28/Aug/03
Great Chimney 18m (Eliminate Area)- is a fantastic route for those learning to lead.(***) Easy to advise on gear placements from top or bottom, plus the magnificently formed chimney structure makes it stand out from any other S grade climb on gritstone that i can think of. I just wish it was longer!
Max Linnemann - 08/Feb/02