Climbs 95
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 290m a.s.l
Faces E

Arete at Turning Stone © Col Allott

Crag features

Hidden away on a rhododendron cloaked hillside the edge provides good climbing in an away-from-it-all location. Generally very good quality grit with the occasional friable hold, usually on overhangs. Each buttress has its own character, from the giant roof of 'Happy Landings', the overhung Sugar Loaf Buttress, to the blade like arete of 'Master of Suspense'. Lots of overhanging thuggishness, but this is interspersed with touches of delicacy. Not all E-numbers, VS to HVS climbers will also find more classics than they can shake a bowsaw at!

Approach notes

A short stroll from limited parking on the grass verge of Holestone Gate Road opposite Old Engine Farm. Take care not to block the gate.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010)
Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996)

Out of print:
Well done to the people taking the effort to clear the rhodedendrons. A Gem of a crag. Make sure to bring a saw/axe if you visit and help with the 'gardening'.
Albie - 08/May/13
Great little crag this
Ander - 14/Jul/12
An East-facing gritstone edge! Really nice place and the Rhodedendrons are still at bay
Cake - 25/Feb/12
It is a lovely spot but take a bin bag with you 'cos idiots party in the woods on the way in and leave rubbish...
bz - 01/Sep/11
A little gritty and muddy on most climbs but possibly the best grit I have ever climbed on!! Also did/dogged a girdle from Plum Groove along the two middle breaks finishing up Umbongo not a bad outing if done clean on lead.
joese7en - 12/Sep/10
I'd written off this place after one visit when it was at its worst. Someone has put a huge amount of effort into clearing it and its now a fine little spot. Needs and deserves a steady flow of visitors to keep clean.
DerwentDiluted - 03/Sep/10
It appears that man had conquered the jungle - the rock here is fabulous quality its just getting there that is a fight.
petellis - 18/Aug/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Master of Suspense 
2Ballnut WhipE3 6c *1
3BushballhogE4 6b *1
4Rhododendron GrottoVD 2
5Cleft Buttress LeftS 4a 4
6A Bit on the SideE2 5c 6
7The CleftVD 2
8Mistress in SuspendersE3 6a 1
9Master of SuspenseE4 6b **2
10Rough DiamondE5 6c **3
11Cleft Buttress RightHVD 4a 2
 Happy Landings to Amber Buttress 
13Punditryf6B * 
14Pedantryf5+ * 
15Salle Goosef7C+ ***2
16Second ChanceE3 6a *1
17Calling the GritE4 6b *1
18Happy LandingsE2 5b **19
19National PowerE4 6a **5
20Who gives a Font?!E6 6b **1
21Finger Bangf7A+ **1
22Jay WalkerVS 4c *14
23Morning WoodE3 6a * 
24Depressed AreteE1 5b *18
25Happy CrackHS 4b 3
26Cave Chimney DirectVS 4c *3
27Cave RouteS 4a *8
28Tree DimensionalE1 5c *2
29A Clash of KingsE6 6b *2
30Twilight SlabHVS 5a *46
31Rody GrooveVD 7
32Amber GascoigneE2 6a 2
33Amber ButtressHVS 5a **73
34Amber ArÍteVS 4c **124
35AmberrationHVS 5c *3
 Plum Groove to Overton Arete 
37Plumb BobHS 4c 16
38Plumb LineS 4a 32
39Burn before ListeningHVS 5b 4
40Diagonal LineS 4b *5
41Plumb GrooveHVD 4a 17
42DamsonHS 4c *14
43Stump RootVS 4c 10
44Cave TraverseVS 5a 1
45Bent LineVS 5a 3
46UmbongoE1 5c *12
47River Of Lifef7C+ **8
48Puddle of disappointmentf7B 1
49Right Between the EyesE5 6b *2
50Vee VariantVS 4c **16
51Vee ChimneyS 4a **4
 Sail Buttress 
53Hello SailorE2 5c 10
54Car Boot SailVS 4b *25
55Sail ArÍteS 4b **142
56Sail By DateE3 6a 8
57Sail WallS 4b 14
58Sail DiagonalVD 1
59Pedestal RouteHS 4a 2
60Short CornerD 4
 Overton Buttress 
62Adventure with Loopy LooHS 4b 4
63Tripping on SunshineE2 5c *4
64Rainy Day BluesE3 5c **20
65Stop the Gutless BoltersE5 6a 1
66Baker's GrooveE1 5b **24
67Fall from GraceE2 5c *11
68Buns out of the OvenHS 4b 5
69The Oven
S 4a 1
70Ledge Route
E1 5b  
71Gibbon Swingf7A 12
72Waiting for TonyE1 5b *17
73Overton ArÍteHVS 5b **104
74Underton ArÍtef6C 27
75Hugo De VriesE1 5b **95
76Overton WallVS 4c *88
77Stop the Buttless GloatersE1 5b *2
78Price ChopperE1 5a *2
79Dove CracksVD 2
80The Wasp FactoryHS 4b *8
81Little PeapodS 4a 1
82Fairy StepsHVD 2
83False StartVS 4c 1
84Boggle ButtressHS 4b 7
85MundercurHVS 5c 3
86Goblin GrooveHVD 4a  
87OrcHVD 3
88Spectref5 1
90Lucky Lukef6C *1
 The Turning Stone 
92Rody Pagonda
E1 5b  
93Lizzy Dripping
HVS 5a  
94Jumpin' on an Aphidf6A+ 1
95Velveteen Whisperf6B+ **1
96The Cherub's Bitf7A *1
97Nice Pinch, Shame About the Ledgef7A 1
98Riding the Stangf7A+ **1
99The Seekerf7C ** 
100Secret Dynof7B **1
101Ha Hoof6B 2
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We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]