Turningstone Edge

Climbs 94 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 290m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Hidden away on a rhododendron cloaked hillside the edge provides good climbing in an away-from-it-all location. Generally very good quality grit with the occasional friable hold, usually on overhangs. Each buttress has its own character, from the giant roof of 'Happy Landings', the overhung Sugar Loaf Buttress, to the blade like arete of 'Master of Suspense'. Lots of overhanging thuggishness, but this is interspersed with touches of delicacy. Not all E-numbers, VS to HVS climbers will also find more classics than they can shake a bowsaw at!

Access notes
A short stroll from limited parking on the grass verge of Holestone Gate Road opposite Old Engine Farm. Take care not to block the gate.

Guidebooks
Eastern Grit (2015), Peak Bouldering (2014), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Eastern Grit (2006) (2006)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 MASTER OF SUSPENSE  
2Ballnut WhipE3 6c *1
3BushballhogE4 6b *1
4Rhododendron GrottoVD 2
5Cleft Buttress LeftS 4a 4
6A Bit on the SideE2 5c 6
7The CleftVD 2
8Mistress in SuspendersE3 6a 1
9Master of SuspenseE4 6b **2
10Rough DiamondE5 6c **3
11Cleft Buttress RightHVD 4a 2
 HAPPY LANDINGS TO AMBER BUTTRESS  
13PunditryV4 6b * 
14PedantryV2 6a * 
15Salle GooseV10 7a ***2
16Second ChanceE3 6a *1
17Calling the GritE4 6b *1
18Happy LandingsE2 5b **19
19National PowerE4 6a **5
20Finger Bangf7A+ **1
21Jay WalkerVS 4c *14
22Morning WoodE3 6a * 
23Depressed AreteE1 5b *18
24Happy CrackHS 4b 3
25Cave Chimney DirectVS 4c *3
26Cave RouteS 4a *8
27Tree DimensionalE1 5c *2
28A Clash of KingsE6 6b *2
29Twilight SlabHVS 5a *45
30Rody GrooveVD 7
31Amber GascoigneE2 6a 2
32Amber ButtressHVS 5a **73
33Amber ArÍteVS 4c **123
34AmberrationHVS 5c *3
 PLUM GROOVE TO OVERTON ARETE  
36Plumb BobHS 4c 16
37Plumb LineS 4a 32
38Burn before ListeningHVS 5b 4
39Diagonal LineS 4b *5
40Plumb GrooveHVD 4a 16
41DamsonHS 4c *14
42Stump RootVS 4c 10
43Cave TraverseVS 5a 1
44Bent LineVS 5a 3
45UmbongoE1 5c *12
46River Of Lifef7C+ **8
47Puddle of disappointmentV8 1
48Right Between the EyesE5 6b *2
49Vee VariantVS 4c **15
50Vee ChimneyS 4a **4
 SAIL BUTTRESS  
52Hello SailorE2 5c 10
53Car Boot SailVS 4b *24
54Sail ArÍteS 4b **142
55Sail By DateE3 6a 8
56Sail WallS 4b 13
57Sail DiagonalVD 1
58Pedestal RouteHS 4a 2
59Short CornerD 4
 OVERTON BUTTRESS  
61Adventure with Loopy LooHS 4b 4
62Tripping on SunshineE2 5c *4
63Rainy Day BluesE3 5c **20
64Stop the Gutless BoltersE5 6a 1
65Baker's GrooveE1 5b **24
66Fall from GraceE2 5c *11
67Buns out of the OvenHS 4b 5
68The OvenS 4a 1
69Ledge RouteE1 5b  
70Gibbon SwingV6 6c 12
71Waiting for TonyE1 5b *17
72Overton ArÍteHVS 5b **103
73Underton ArÍteV5 6b 27
74Hugo De VriesE1 5b **93
75Overton WallVS 4c *87
76Stop the Buttless GloatersE1 5b *2
77Price ChopperE1 5a *2
78Dove CracksVD 2
79The Wasp FactoryHS 4b *8
80Little PeapodS 4a 1
81Fairy StepsHVD 2
82False StartVS 4c 1
83Boggle ButtressHS 4b 7
84MundercurHVS 5c 3
85Goblin GrooveHVD 4a  
86OrcHVD 3
87SpectreV1 5c 1
88SpriteV2 6a  
89Lucky LukeV5 6b *1
 THE TURNING STONE  
91Rody PagondaE1 5b  
92Lizzy DrippingHVS 5a  
93Jumpin' on an Aphidf6A+ 1
94Velveteen Whisperf6B+ **1
95The Cherub's Bitf7A *1
96Nice Pinch, Shame About the Ledgef7A 1
97Riding the Stangf7A+ **1
98The Seekerf7C ** 
99Secret DynoV8 6c **1
100Ha Hoof6B 2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Well done to the people taking the effort to clear the rhodedendrons. A Gem of a crag. Make sure to bring a saw/axe if you visit and help with the 'gardening'.
Albie - 08/May/13
Great little crag this
Ander - 14/Jul/12
An East-facing gritstone edge! Really nice place and the Rhodedendrons are still at bay
Cake - 25/Feb/12
It is a lovely spot but take a bin bag with you 'cos idiots party in the woods on the way in and leave rubbish...
bz - 01/Sep/11
A little gritty and muddy on most climbs but possibly the best grit I have ever climbed on!! Also did/dogged a girdle from Plum Groove along the two middle breaks finishing up Umbongo not a bad outing if done clean on lead.
joese7en - 12/Sep/10
I'd written off this place after one visit when it was at its worst. Someone has put a huge amount of effort into clearing it and its now a fine little spot. Needs and deserves a steady flow of visitors to keep clean.
DerwentDiluted - 03/Sep/10
It appears that man had conquered the jungle - the rock here is fabulous quality its just getting there that is a fight.
petellis - 18/Aug/08