Turningstone Edge

Climbs 94 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 290m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Hidden away on a rhododendron cloaked hillside the edge provides good climbing in an away-from-it-all location. Generally very good quality grit with the occasional friable hold, usually on overhangs. Each buttress has its own character, from the giant roof of 'Happy Landings', the overhung Sugar Loaf Buttress, to the blade like arete of 'Master of Suspense'. Lots of overhanging thuggishness, but this is interspersed with touches of delicacy. Not all E-numbers, VS to HVS climbers will also find more classics than they can shake a bowsaw at!

Access notes
A short stroll from limited parking on the grass verge of Holestone Gate Road opposite Old Engine Farm. Take care not to block the gate.

Eastern Grit (2015), Peak Bouldering (2014), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Eastern Grit (2006) (2006)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Ballnut WhipE3 6c *1
3BushballhogE4 6b *1
4Rhododendron GrottoVD 2
5Cleft Buttress LeftS 4a 4
6A Bit on the SideE2 5c 6
7The CleftVD 2
8Mistress in SuspendersE3 6a 1
9Master of SuspenseE4 6b **2
10Rough DiamondE5 6c **3
11Cleft Buttress RightHVD 4a 2
13PunditryV4 6b * 
14PedantryV2 6a * 
15Salle GooseV10 7a ***2
16Second ChanceE3 6a *1
17Calling the GritE4 6b *1
18Happy LandingsE2 5b **19
19National PowerE4 6a **5
20Finger Bangf7A+ **1
21Jay WalkerVS 4c *11
22Morning WoodE3 6a * 
23Depressed AreteE1 5b *18
24Happy CrackHS 4b 3
25Cave Chimney DirectVS 4c *3
26Cave RouteS 4a *8
27Tree DimensionalE1 5c *2
28A Clash of KingsE6 6b *2
29Twilight SlabHVS 5a *40
30Rody GrooveVD 7
31Amber GascoigneE2 6a 2
32Amber ButtressHVS 5a **70
33Amber ArêteVS 4c **116
34AmberrationHVS 5c *3
36Plumb BobHS 4c 14
37Plumb LineS 4a 29
38Burn before ListeningHVS 5b 4
39Diagonal LineS 4b *5
40Plumb GrooveHVD 4a 14
41DamsonHS 4c *14
42Stump RootVS 4c 10
43Cave TraverseVS 5a 1
44Bent LineVS 5a 3
45UmbongoE1 5c *12
46River Of Lifef7C+ **8
47Right Between the EyesE5 6b *2
48Vee VariantVS 4c **13
49Vee ChimneyS 4a **4
51Hello SailorE2 5c 10
52Car Boot SailVS 4b *20
53Sail ArêteS 4b **137
54Sail By DateE3 6a 8
55Sail WallS 4b 13
56Sail DiagonalVD 1
57Pedestal RouteHS 4a 2
58Short CornerD 4
60Adventure with Loopy LooHS 4b 4
61Tripping on SunshineE2 5c *4
62Rainy Day BluesE3 5c **20
63Stop the Gutless BoltersE5 6a 1
64Baker's GrooveE1 5b **24
65Fall from GraceE2 5c *11
66Buns out of the OvenHS 4b 5
67The OvenS 4a 1
68Ledge RouteE1 5b  
69Gibbon SwingV6 6c 11
70Waiting for TonyE1 5b *17
71Overton ArêteHVS 5b **101
72Underton ArêteV5 6b 25
73Hugo De VriesE1 5b **91
74Overton WallVS 4c *82
75Stop the Buttless GloatersE1 5b *2
76Price ChopperE1 5a *2
77Dove CracksVD 2
78The Wasp FactoryHS 4b *8
79Little PeapodS 4a 1
80Fairy StepsHVD 2
81False StartVS 4c 1
82Boggle ButtressHS 4b 6
83MundercurHVS 5c 3
84Goblin GrooveHVD 4a  
85OrcHVD 3
86SpectreV1 5c 1
87SpriteV2 6a  
88Lucky LukeV5 6b *1
90Rody PagondaE1 5b  
91Lizzy DrippingHVS 5a  
92Jumpin' on an Aphidf6A+ 1
93Velveteen Whisperf6B+ **1
94The Cherub's Bitf7A *1
95Nice Pinch, Shame About the Ledgef7A 1
96Riding the Stangf7A+ **1
97The Seekerf7C ** 
98Secret DynoV8 6c **1
99Ha Hoof6B 2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Well done to the people taking the effort to clear the rhodedendrons. A Gem of a crag. Make sure to bring a saw/axe if you visit and help with the 'gardening'.
Albie - 08/May/13
Great little crag this
Ander - 14/Jul/12
An East-facing gritstone edge! Really nice place and the Rhodedendrons are still at bay
Cake - 25/Feb/12
It is a lovely spot but take a bin bag with you 'cos idiots party in the woods on the way in and leave rubbish...
bz - 01/Sep/11
A little gritty and muddy on most climbs but possibly the best grit I have ever climbed on!! Also did/dogged a girdle from Plum Groove along the two middle breaks finishing up Umbongo not a bad outing if done clean on lead.
joese7en - 12/Sep/10
I'd written off this place after one visit when it was at its worst. Someone has put a huge amount of effort into clearing it and its now a fine little spot. Needs and deserves a steady flow of visitors to keep clean.
DerwentDiluted - 03/Sep/10
It appears that man had conquered the jungle - the rock here is fabulous quality its just getting there that is a fight.
petellis - 18/Aug/08