Climbs 97
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 290m a.s.l
Faces E

Arete at Turning Stone © Col Allott

Crag features

Hidden, neglected, and rarely visited, Turningstone Edge has always kept its delights camouflaged under a green cloak. The slope below the cliff is smothered in rhododendrons and this invasive species has taken quite a hold on the cliff too. Concerted efforts by keen locals have cleared sections of the cliff face and its base, making the place worth a visit. A pair of secateurs might be an addition to your normal rack to help keep the shrubs in check.

Approach notes

There is parking opposite a farm where a track (footpath sign) heads into the trees. Follow this to a beech copse with a stone wall around it. Walk straight through this (the footpath jigs away right) and follow a narrow trod across the field and straight into the woods. A hundred metres or so into here is a clearing where the local kids build dens and campfires; continue in the same direction to arrive at the top of the cliff where a scramble down a narrow gulley reaches its base, towards the centre.

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010)
Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996)

Out of print:
Well done to the people taking the effort to clear the rhodedendrons. A Gem of a crag. Make sure to bring a saw/axe if you visit and help with the 'gardening'.
Albie - 08/May/13
Great little crag this
Ander - 14/Jul/12
An East-facing gritstone edge! Really nice place and the Rhodedendrons are still at bay
Cake - 25/Feb/12
It is a lovely spot but take a bin bag with you 'cos idiots party in the woods on the way in and leave rubbish...
bz - 01/Sep/11
A little gritty and muddy on most climbs but possibly the best grit I have ever climbed on!! Also did/dogged a girdle from Plum Groove along the two middle breaks finishing up Umbongo not a bad outing if done clean on lead.
joese7en - 12/Sep/10
I'd written off this place after one visit when it was at its worst. Someone has put a huge amount of effort into clearing it and its now a fine little spot. Needs and deserves a steady flow of visitors to keep clean.
DerwentDiluted - 03/Sep/10
It appears that man had conquered the jungle - the rock here is fabulous quality its just getting there that is a fight.
petellis - 18/Aug/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Master of Suspense 
2Ballnut Whip ArÍte
-
V0 * 
3Ballnut WhipE3 6c *1
4BushballhogE4 6b *1
5Rhododendron GrottoVD 2
6Cleft Buttress LeftS 4a 4
7A Bit on the Side of A Bit on the SideE1 5b  
8A Bit on the SideE2 5c 6
9The CleftVD 2
10Mistress in SuspendersE3 6a 1
11Master of SuspenseE4 6b *2
12Rough DiamondE5 6c *3
13Cleft Buttress RightHVD 4a 2
 Happy Landings to Amber Buttress 
15PunditryV4 * 
16PedantryV2 * 
17Salle GooseV10 ***3
18Second ChanceE3 6a *1
19Calling the GritE4 6b *1
20Happy LandingsE2 5b **19
21National PowerE4 6a **5
22Who gives a Font?!E6 6b **1
23Finger Bangf7A+ **1
24Jay WalkerVS 4c *14
25Morning WoodE3 6a * 
26Depressed ArÍteE1 5b *19
27Happy CrackHS 4b 3
28Cave Chimney DirectVS 4c *3
29Cave RouteS 4a *8
30Tree DimensionalE1 5c *2
31A Clash of KingsE6 6b *2
32Twilight SlabHVS 5a *47
33Rody GrooveVD 7
34Amber GascoigneE2 6a 2
35Amber ButtressHVS 5a **76
36Amber ArÍteVS 4c **129
37AmberrationHVS 5c *3
 Sail Buttress 
39Plumb BobHS 4c 16
40Plumb-LineS 4a 32
41Burn before ListeningHVS 5b 4
42The Diagonal LineS 4b *5
43Plumb GrooveHVD 4a 17
44DamsonHS 4c *14
45Stump RootVS 4c 10
46Cave TraverseVS 5a 1
47Bent LineVS 5a 3
48UmbongoE1 5c *12
49River of Lifef7C+ **9
50Puddle of DisappointmentV8 1
51Right Between the EyesE5 6b *2
52Vee VariantVS 4c **16
53Vee ChimneyS 4a **4
54Hello SailorE2 5c 11
55Car Boot SailVS 4b *25
56Sail ArÍteS 4b **144
57Sail By DateE3 6a 8
58Sail WallS 4b 15
59Sail DiagonalVD 1
60Pedestal RouteHS 4a 2
61Short CornerHVD 4a 4
 Sugar Loaf Buttress 
63Adventure with Loopy LooHS 4b 5
64Tripping on SunshineE2 5c *4
65Rainy Day BluesE3 5c **20
66Stop the Gutless BoltersE5 6a 1
67Baker's GrooveE1 5b **24
68Fall from GraceE2 5c *11
69Buns out of the OvenHS 4b 5
70The Oven
-
S 4a 1
71Ledge Route
-
E1 5b  
72Gibbon SwingV6 **13
73Waiting for TonyE1 5b *18
74Overton ArÍteHVS 5b **107
75Underton ArÍteV5 **29
76Hugo de VriesE1 5b **99
77Overton WallVS 4c *90
78Stop the Buttless GloatersE1 5b *2
79Price ChopperE1 5a *2
80Dove CracksVD 2
81The Wasp FactoryHS 4b *8
82Little PeapodS 4a 1
83Fairy StepsHVD 2
84False StartVS 4c 1
85Boggle ButtressHS 4b 7
86MundercurHVS 5c 3
87Goblin GrooveHVD 4a  
88OrcHVD 3
89SpectreV1 1
90SpriteV2  
91Lucky LukeV5 *1
 The Turning Stone 
93Rody Pagonda
-
E1 5b  
94Lizzy Dripping
-
HVS 5a  
 Secret Buttress 
96Jumpin' on an AphidV3 1
97The Cherub's BitV6 *1
98Velveteen WhisperV4 **1
99Nice Pinch, Shame About the LedgeV6 *1
100Riding the StangV7 1
101The SeekerV9 * 
102Secret DynoV8 **1
103Ha HooV4 2

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