Turning Stone Edge

Climbs 94 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 290m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Hidden away on a rhododendron cloaked hillside the edge provides good climbing in an away-from-it-all location. Generally very good quality grit with the occasional friable hold, usually on overhangs. Each buttress has its own character, from the giant roof of 'Happy Landings', the overhung Sugar Loaf Buttress, to the blade like arete of 'Master of Suspense'. Lots of overhanging thuggishness, but this is interspersed with touches of delicacy. Not all E-numbers, VS to HVS climbers will also find more classics than they can shake a bowsaw at!

Access notes
A short stroll from limited parking on the grass verge of Holestone Gate Road opposite Old Engine Farm. Take care not to block the gate.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Eastern Grit (2006), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 MASTER OF SUSPENSE 
2Ballnut WhipE3 6c *
3BushballhogE4 6b *
4Rhododendron GrottoVD
5Cleft Buttress LeftS 4a
6A Bit on the SideE2 5c
7The CleftVD
8Mistress in SuspendersE3 6a
9Master of SuspenseE4 6b **
10Rough DiamondE5 6c **
11Cleft Buttress RightHVD 4a
 HAPPY LANDINGS 
13PunditryV4 6b *
14PedantryV2 6a *
15Salle GooseV10 7a ***
16Second ChanceE3 6a *
17Calling the GritE4 6b *
18Happy LandingsE2 5b *
19National PowerE4 6a **
20Finger BangV7 6c **
21Jay WalkerVS 4c *
22Morning WoodE3 6a *
23Depressed AreteHVS 5a *
24Happy CrackHS 4b
25Cave Chimney DirectVS 4c
26Cave RouteM 2a
27Tree DimensionalE1 5c *
28A Clash of KingsE6 6a/b **
29Twilight SlabHVS 5a *
30Rody GrooveHVD 4b
31Amber GascoigneE2 6a
32Amber ButtressHVS 5a **
33Amber ArêteVS 4c **
34AmberrationHVS 5c
 UMBONGO BUTTRESS 
36Plumb BobS 4b
37Plumb LineS 4a
38Burn before ListeningHVS 5b
39Diagonal LineS 4a
40Plumb GrooveHVD 4a
41DamsonV0 5a *
42Stump RootVS 4c
43Cave TraverseVS 5a
44Bent LineVS 5a
45UmbongoE2 6a *
46River Of LifeV10 7a ***
47Right Between the EyesE5 6b **
48Vee VariantVS 4c *
49Vee ChimneyHVD 4a *
 SAIL BUTTRESS 
51Hello SailorE1 6a
52Car Boot SailVS 4b
53Sail ArêteS 4b **
54Sail By DateE3 6a
55Sail WallS 4b
56Sail DiagonalVD
57Pedestal RouteHS 4a
58Short CornerD
 SUGAR LOAF BUTTRESS 
60Adventure with Loopy LooHS 4b
61Tripping on SunshineE2 5c *
62Rainy Day BluesE3 5c **
63Stop the Gutless BoltersE5 6a
64Baker's GrooveE1 5b *
65Fall from GraceE2 5c *
66Buns out of the OvenHS 4b
67The OvenS 4a
68Ledge RouteE1 5b
69Gibbon SwingV6 6c
70Waiting for TonyE1 5b
71Overton ArêteHVS 5b **
72Underton ArêteV5 6b
73Hugo De VriesE1 5b **
74Overton WallVS 4c *
75Stop the Buttless GloatersE1 5b *
76Price ChopperE1 5a *
77Dove CracksVD
78The Wasp FactoryHS 4b *
79Little PeapodS 4a
80Fairy StepsHVD
81False StartVS 4c
82Boggle ButtressHS 4b
83MundercurHVS 5c
84Goblin GrooveHVD 4a
85OrcHVD
86SpectreV1 5c
87SpriteV2 6a
88Lucky LukeV5 6b *
 THE TURNING STONE 
90Rody PagondaE1 5b
91Lizzy DrippingHVS 5a
92Jumpin' on an Aphidf6A+
93Velveteen Whisperf6B+ **
94The Cherub's Bitf7A *
95Nice Pinch, Shame About the Ledgef7A
96Riding the Stangf7A+ **
97The Seekerf7C **
98Secret DynoV8 6c **
99Ha Hoof6B
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Andl

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Well done to the people taking the effort to clear the rhodedendrons. A Gem of a crag. Make sure to bring a saw/axe if you visit and help with the 'gardening'.
Albie - 08/May/13
Great little crag this
Ander - 14/Jul/12
An East-facing gritstone edge! Really nice place and the Rhodedendrons are still at bay
Cake - 25/Feb/12
It is a lovely spot but take a bin bag with you 'cos idiots party in the woods on the way in and leave rubbish...
bz - 01/Sep/11
A little gritty and muddy on most climbs but possibly the best grit I have ever climbed on!! Also did/dogged a girdle from Plum Groove along the two middle breaks finishing up Umbongo not a bad outing if done clean on lead.
joese7en - 12/Sep/10
I'd written off this place after one visit when it was at its worst. Someone has put a huge amount of effort into clearing it and its now a fine little spot. Needs and deserves a steady flow of visitors to keep clean.
DerwentDiluted - 03/Sep/10
It appears that man had conquered the jungle - the rock here is fabulous quality its just getting there that is a fight.
petellis - 18/Aug/08