IMMEDIATE CLIMBING BAN - EDWARDSVILLE XI
Please note that the BMC have been threatened with legal action by the owners over the use of Edwardsville XI by climbers/general public. This crag is known by the owners as Pontygwaith Quarry.
Please give this area a wide berth. DO NOT ACCESS. DO NOT CLIMB.
The BMC are planning to meet the owners but of course the outcome of any negotiations will determine the future use of the crag as a climbing venue. We will have to wait and see.
John Custance (BMC Access Rep. SE Wales)
Retrieved from "http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/index.php/Edwardsville_(X1)"
A newish bolted crag that is quickly losing most of it's loose rock due to its' current popularity and proximity to 'Summit' (WICC) climbing wall.
The crag is split into 2 tiers; upper and lower.
It is a great afternoon sun trap!
The friendly landowner has been referred to the BMC.
South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki
|2||Monkey Business||6a+ *||66|
|4||Big Bad Baboon||5c||42|
|6||Cone Penetration Test||6b+||35|
|8||Fisty Nuts||7b+ **||2|
|9||Phill's a Thieving Little Scrote||6a+ **||3|
|10||Phill's A Bit Wrong But...||7b *||1|
|12||Rabbit Proof Fence||6a+||30|
|14||Cox 2 Inhibitor||6b+||58|
|15||Proton Pump||6a *||39|
|17||Sucking Dicks' Low Fenac||5c||45|
|19||Tramadol Trip||6a+ *||41|
|25||Razor Strop||6b *||33|
|28||Aqua Mule Show||5a||80|
|29||Known Only Unto God||6a+||42|
|31||Uber Gruppen Fuhrer||4a||88|
|DRIFT MINE WALL|
|37||Back to Black||5c||21|
|40||Fisting the Night Away||5c||43|
|41||Paul Prefers Pretty Pussy||6b||30|
|42||Monkey Stole My Face||6a+||44|
|43||Balls Of Damocles||6b *||30|
|44||Boy George V||6a+||17|
|45||Dream Of Wet Rabbits||5c||7|
|46||Rent Boys and Radiators||6a+||9|
|47||A Dream Of Wet Rabbits||5c *||2|
|48||We Like Damp Beaver||6b *||16|
|49||Hot Little Minx||6a+ *||5|
|50||Mountain At The Edge||6b+ *||19|
|51||The Pleasant Mount||6c+ *||8|
|52||Man In A Honda Over Yonder In Rhondda||6b||19|
|53||Poke Her Face||6a||15|
|54||Bull Camp||6a+ *||17|
|55||I Love Valley Girls||6a+||9|
|56||Chloe's Crack||5a *||22|
|58||Emiliano Mercado del Toro||5c||24|
|59||Get Nutted||E2 5c *||3|
|60||Daddy's Little Lemon Licker||6a||7|
|61||Homme de L'elephant||5c||9|
|62||...but I couldn't eat a whole one||6a||3|
|64||Bonaroo Lally Tappers||5c||7|
|65||Meat Fly vs The Custard Cannon||6a||8|
|66||Over The Top||6a *||4|
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|I used the topos and directions on sportsclimbs.co.uk. Be aware that the road-sign (on A4054) at the southern end of the village of Mount Pleasant actually says "Merthyr Vale". The turn to the track up to the quarry is opposite the 30mph 300m sign before you enter the village. Park in the village and walk back towards Edwardsville and up the track (there is an old gate about quarter of the way up the track). The order of the climbs, on the upper tier, on the topo is not the same as the order listed here on UKC. There are also some extra climbs listed here on UKC. Great crag!|
Blackgoby - 14/Jul/11
|does anyone know where to find the best topos please thanks|
craigjames1 - 10/Jul/10
|does anyone know the best place to find topos please thanks|
craigjames1 - 10/Jul/10
|are there any topos of to right hand side of the top tier?
these routes tend to be a bit loose as they havent been climbed much|
shavec - 16/Jun/10
|Can't find it argh!|
DBDeaN1990 - 18/Aug/09