Mount Pleasant X1

Climbs 64 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 226m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features

Please note that the BMC have been threatened with legal action by the owners over the use of Edwardsville XI by climbers/general public. This crag is known by the owners as Pontygwaith Quarry.

Please give this area a wide berth. DO NOT ACCESS. DO NOT CLIMB.

The BMC are planning to meet the owners but of course the outcome of any negotiations will determine the future use of the crag as a climbing venue. We will have to wait and see.

John Custance (BMC Access Rep. SE Wales)

Retrieved from ""

A newish bolted crag that is quickly losing most of it's loose rock due to its' current popularity and proximity to 'Summit' (WICC) climbing wall.

The crag is split into 2 tiers; upper and lower.

It is a great afternoon sun trap!

Access notes
The friendly landowner has been referred to the BMC.

South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Monkey Business6a+ *66
3Flidington Rex5a 72
4Big Bad Baboon5c 42
5Orangutanarium6b **81
6Cone Penetration Test6b+ 35
7Remediation Required6b 20
8Fisty Nuts7b+ **2
9Phill's a Thieving Little Scrote6a+ **3
10Phill's A Bit Wrong But...7b *1
11Fistula7a **16
12Rabbit Proof Fence6a+ 30
13Uluru6a+ 59
14Cox 2 Inhibitor6b+ 58
15Proton Pump6a *39
16Voltarol Vigour6a 38
17Sucking Dicks' Low Fenac5c 45
18CoCodamol Crunch5c 55
19Tramadol Trip6a+ *41
20Paracetamol Punch6b 23
21Ed less6a 37
22Guillotine5a 55
23Final Cut6b 20
24Primal Cut6b 28
25Razor Strop6b *33
26The Poddling6a+ 78
27Ed More5a 97
28Aqua Mule Show5a 80
29Known Only Unto God6a+ 42
30Oolacunta5a 80
31Uber Gruppen Fuhrer4a 88
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I used the topos and directions on Be aware that the road-sign (on A4054) at the southern end of the village of Mount Pleasant actually says "Merthyr Vale". The turn to the track up to the quarry is opposite the 30mph 300m sign before you enter the village. Park in the village and walk back towards Edwardsville and up the track (there is an old gate about quarter of the way up the track). The order of the climbs, on the upper tier, on the topo is not the same as the order listed here on UKC. There are also some extra climbs listed here on UKC. Great crag!
Blackgoby - 14/Jul/11
does anyone know where to find the best topos please thanks
craigjames1 - 10/Jul/10
does anyone know the best place to find topos please thanks
craigjames1 - 10/Jul/10
are there any topos of to right hand side of the top tier? these routes tend to be a bit loose as they havent been climbed much
shavec - 16/Jun/10
Can't find it argh!
DBDeaN1990 - 18/Aug/09