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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SH 879786 (OS Landranger #116)

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These details were last updated on 09/Jan/2012

Penmaen Head

Conwy, WALES

Climbs 67 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
An easily accessed venue featuring natural limestone with 7 distinct sectors, each with their own character. The complex offers good quality, well bolted and enjoyable climbing with a decent mix of grades but would mainly suit those operating in the F6's. The routes start from a flat base and have full lower-offs. The crag was developed in 2007 /08 by locals Mike Doyle and Norman Clacher.

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Guidebooks
A55 sport climbs 2nd edition (2011), A55 Sport Climbs (2010)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 PENMAENRHOS WALL  
2barney rubble6b+ *15
3whilst you were away6b+ 7
4discomknockerated6b+ *41
5flaschenburste crack6a+ *104
6ambergis6b+ 13
7helyg crack6a *82
8desiderata6c *11
9The Gimp Crimp7a *23
10red handed6a 60
11intruder5+ *227
12the trouble with girls6b+ *47
13sir crimpalot7a+ 19
14top secret6c *45
15terces pot6c *21
16broken blackbird5 58
17scared shipless6a+ *98
18another one bites the dust6c *51
19steak slice5 138
 FLOWSTONE WALL  
21Swing Time For Hitler6a 20
22richard 11 13996a+ **222
23big up the lizard5+ 306
24tan y lan kids5 313
25the burning spinster6b *94
26dead moggy syndrome6b *85
27go with the flow6a *206
28the double helix6a+ *143
29statement of twlight years6b *67
30fixe inox city6b+ *32
31aphelion6a *119
32blitzy's jug6a+ **128
33flowstone shuffle6b+ ***187
 RED WALL  
35calling all wimps6a 20
36the green bus6c *33
37criminal bay6c *17
38grandad's jumper6b+ 8
 Climb nameGradex
 QUARRY WALL  
40yin6a+ 32
41yang6a+ 46
 WEN WALL  
43gabrielle's arete6a+ 41
44charlotte's goal7a *38
45jenny's welsh cap6b+ *53
46Hammy's world tour6a *101
47chris cornerS *20
 RAILWAY TUNNEL WALL  
49tunnel vision6a+ 47
50pier pressure - £10 down6a+ 39
51retirement day6a *63
52snowdrop6a+ **106
5370 degrees6c *28
5470 Degrees / Clogau gold link7a+  
55clogau gold7a *16
56The Wizard is Oz7b+ *2
57The railway tunnel traverseV5 1
 EXPRESSWAY WALL  
59the long run home6a 48
60that's enough new routes for now6c 21
61That's Enough New Routes For Now Straight Up7a 4
62fathers for justice6c **46
63the quarrywoman6b+ ***74
64hotel 70 degrees6b *25
65clwyd MC6a+ 39
66ryan's route6a+ *66
67kneeshaw lupton6c+ *17
68the mankind initiative6b+ *14
69paranoia crack6b 11
70adams exams6b *9
71Tricky TraverseV5 1
 THE UPPER WALL  
73The Link6a+ 2
74Not so Simplon6b+ 1
75The Changing of the Guard6c  
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Access notes
From the A55, take the junction 22 slip-road towards Old Colwyn. Turn right under the expressway and then left at the roundabout towards Llanddulas /Abergele (A547).

Stay on this main road and just before the top of the hill turn into the layby on the left to park by an apartment complex. Approach the crag down the steps.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer michael burrows ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Is the 4 hour parking limit in the layby enforced?
Roget ? - 07/May/12

had a near miss on express wall (upper section) with fly tippers lobbing rocks and metal chair etc off the top, we almost got hit by the chair at the bottom of the climb.should be a one off hopefully as the top is fenced off with high fences but top of crag can still be accessed by climbin over the wall at the top of the steps that lead down to the climbs from the car park. apart from that a great afternoon out.
pork pie girl ? - 05/Jun/11

Went down yesterday afternoon and found a person sleeping rough (also drunk) in a half erect tent in the undergrowth near the railway tunnel wall.. is this normal??
DaveJ 11 ? - 24/May/11

The initial post for this crag "a bit of a safety warning" about being able to twist the bolts on the first 3 routes on Flowstone wall gives an erroneous impression. The bolts in question can only be twisted by 1 - 2mm and are in no danger of coming out. However, the situation will continue to be monitored.
rockcat ? - 09/May/11

A bit of a safety warning! I was there today and all the protection bolts on/between 'Richard II 1399' to 'Go with the Flow'. It appears that the glue used hasn't mixed correctly or something, as although the eco bolts themselves are fine, they can be easily moved/twisted by hand. They should be fine for another year but this could be issue as time goes on... I was able to pick off the epoxy glue excess from around the bolts with my fingers.
ERU ? - 17/Oct/10

A new area facing the A55 has been climbed on recently. Details have been added under a separate crag name, Trench Wall(Conwy), to allow the recording of separate access info. There are currently 11 routes. 6 are are 6a+/6b, 3 are 6b+ and 2 are 6c or 6c+. All are pretty good.
harold walmsley ? - 05/Sep/10

Really good place to climb in the late afternoon with so much to keep you busy, just be warned some of the bolts are far apart and the first ones are quite high on some routes, but the climbing is spot on!
alexstudly ? - 07/Mar/10

I pass this place every weekend on my trip to Manchester and always wondered if there is any climbing there. Curiosity got the best of me so I had to divert on my way home and I was amazed! Me and my climbing partner traversed the 6 sections individually then done all 6 in a row. Traverse is as good as the climbs!
S-Crew ? - 28/May/09

Would adding a few Land marks or Junction details not be useful in the access notes for those who don’t know the area ?
mux ? - 18/May/09

A good low-mid-grade sport climbing resource, with some nice flowstone and conglomerate features.
Fiend ? - 08/May/09