Penmaen Head

Climbs 68 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
An easily accessed venue featuring natural limestone with 7 distinct sectors, each with their own character. The complex offers good quality, well bolted and enjoyable climbing with a decent mix of grades but would mainly suit those operating in the F6's. The routes start from a flat base and have full lower-offs. The crag was developed in 2007 /08 by locals Mike Doyle and Norman Clacher.

Access notes
From the A55, take the junction 22 slip-road towards Old Colwyn. Turn right under the expressway and then left at the roundabout towards Llanddulas /Abergele (A547).

Stay on this main road and just before the top of the hill turn into the layby on the left to park by an apartment complex. Approach the crag down the steps.

Guidebooks
North Wales Limestone (2014), North Wales Climbs (2013), A55 sport climbs 2nd edition (2011), A55 Sport Climbs (2010)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 THE UPPER WALL 
2The Link6a+
3Not so Simplon6b+
4The Changing of the Guard6c
 EXPRESSWAY WALL 
6The Long Run Home6a
7That's Enough New Routes for Now6c
8That's Enough New Routes For Now Straight Up7a
9Fathers for Justice6c **
10The Quarrywoman6b+ ***
11Hotel 70 Degrees6b *
12Clwyd MC6a+
13Ryan's Route6a+ *
14Kneeshaw Lupton6c+ *
15The Mankind Initiative6b+ *
16Paranoia Crack6b
17Adams Exams6b *
18Tricky TraverseV5
 RAILWAY TUNNEL WALL 
20tunnel vision6a+
21pier pressure - £10 down6a+
22retirement day6a *
23snowdrop6a+ **
2470 degrees6c+ *
2570 Degrees / Clogau gold link7a+
26clogau gold7a *
27The Wizard is Oz7b+ *
28The railway tunnel traverseV5
 WEN WALL 
30gabrielle's arete6a+
31charlotte's goal7a *
32jenny's welsh cap6b+ *
33Hammy's world tour6a *
34chris cornerS *
 QUARRY WALL 
36yin6a+
37yang6a+
 RED WALL 
39calling all wimps6a
40the green bus6c *
41criminal bay6c *
42grandad's jumper6b+
 FLOWSTONE WALL 
44Swing Time For Hitler6a
45Richard 11 13996a+ **
46Big up the Lizard5c
47Tan y Lan Kids5a
48The Burning Spinster6b *
49Dead Moggy Syndrome6b *
50Go With the Flow6a *
51The Double Helix6a+ *
52Statement of Twlight Years6b *
53Fixe Inox City6b+ *
54Aphelion6a *
55Blitzy's Jug6a+ **
56Flowstone Shuffle6b+ ***
57Barney Rubble6b+ *
58Whilst You Were Away6b+
 PENMAENRHOS WALL 
60Discomknockerated6b+ *
61Flaschenburste Crack6a+ *
62Ambergis6b+
63Helyg Crack6a *
64Desiderata6c *
65The Gimp Crimp7a *
66Red Handed6a
67Intruder5c *
68The Trouble With Girls6b+ *
69Sir Crimpalot7a+
70Top Secret6c *
71Terces Pot6c *
72Broken Blackbird5a
73Scared Shipless6a+ *
74Another One Bites the Dust6c *
75Steak Slice5a
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer michael burrows

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Is the 4 hour parking limit in the layby enforced?
Roget - 07/May/12
had a near miss on express wall (upper section) with fly tippers lobbing rocks and metal chair etc off the top, we almost got hit by the chair at the bottom of the climb.should be a one off hopefully as the top is fenced off with high fences but top of crag can still be accessed by climbin over the wall at the top of the steps that lead down to the climbs from the car park. apart from that a great afternoon out.
pork pie girl - 05/Jun/11
Went down yesterday afternoon and found a person sleeping rough (also drunk) in a half erect tent in the undergrowth near the railway tunnel wall.. is this normal??
DaveJ 11 - 24/May/11
The initial post for this crag "a bit of a safety warning" about being able to twist the bolts on the first 3 routes on Flowstone wall gives an erroneous impression. The bolts in question can only be twisted by 1 - 2mm and are in no danger of coming out. However, the situation will continue to be monitored.
rockcat - 09/May/11
A bit of a safety warning! I was there today and all the protection bolts on/between 'Richard II 1399' to 'Go with the Flow'. It appears that the glue used hasn't mixed correctly or something, as although the eco bolts themselves are fine, they can be easily moved/twisted by hand. They should be fine for another year but this could be issue as time goes on... I was able to pick off the epoxy glue excess from around the bolts with my fingers.
ERU - 17/Oct/10
A new area facing the A55 has been climbed on recently. Details have been added under a separate crag name, Trench Wall(Conwy), to allow the recording of separate access info. There are currently 11 routes. 6 are are 6a+/6b, 3 are 6b+ and 2 are 6c or 6c+. All are pretty good.
harold walmsley - 05/Sep/10
Really good place to climb in the late afternoon with so much to keep you busy, just be warned some of the bolts are far apart and the first ones are quite high on some routes, but the climbing is spot on!
alexstudly - 07/Mar/10
I pass this place every weekend on my trip to Manchester and always wondered if there is any climbing there. Curiosity got the best of me so I had to divert on my way home and I was amazed! Me and my climbing partner traversed the 6 sections individually then done all 6 in a row. Traverse is as good as the climbs!
S-Crew - 28/May/09
Would adding a few Land marks or Junction details not be useful in the access notes for those who donít know the area ?
mux - 18/May/09
A good low-mid-grade sport climbing resource, with some nice flowstone and conglomerate features.
Fiend - 08/May/09
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 28/Sep/2014
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