Climbs 56
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 885m a.s.l
Faces SW

'Joint', 7a crack, Villanueva de Cauche, in the hills between Malaga and Antequera © iggy healey

Crag features

'Yugoslavia' is the name given to an eye catching crag close to the small mountain village of Villanueva de Cauche. It is composed of a vertical wall of vivid orange limestone that rises above a grassy slope only seconds from a convenient but quiet road. The crag is also blessed with a southerly, open aspect and a view to die for out over the hills and mountains that run down to the coast and west across to El Torcal. There is a decent spread of grades although the harder lines are the best and all of the climbs are very fingery and technical with progress normally being made on tiny edges and the odd pocket or flake crack.

Approach notes

From El Chorro head for Antequera via Valle de Abdalajis. Go through Antequera following signs for Málaga eventually picking up the A45 motorway. Take this and exit at the Colmenar, Villanueva de Cauche exit. Follow signs for Colmenar (do not go to the village of Villanueva de Cauche) and after 2km the crag is obvious on the left. (1 hour 15 minutes from El Chorro depending on traffic).


El Chorro

A full colour guidebook dedicated the area around El Chorro in Andalusia in Spain. Covering the famous Gorge and all the fine crags near the village, plus many superb outlying areas. The book is in the modern Rockfax style with full colour photo topos, descriptions, symbols and maps, plus loads of excellent action shots.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Andalucia (2005)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sector Arriba 
2Resident Evil7c *** 
7b 2
5El Sendero de la Traición
7a+ 2
6El Esquinazo
6c 1
7Luz del Norte
6b 1
6b 3
9Levanta Bicho5a 2
10Una de Espeto
5c 3
11Sureña6a+ 8
12Comando Hulay
7a+ 1
13Rasca y Pica7b+ 3
 Sector El Puente de Roca 
15Lagrimas Negras
16Me lo Dices en la Calle
17Mal Amigo
18Ojo del Culo
19Hotel La Pedriza
20Amigo de Conveniencia
21Bloc Sur6a 1
5c 1
 Sector Pared Roja 
24Peluca6a+ 12
25... en escabeche6a+ 15
26Salt la tapia6b+ 9
27Er melillero6c+ *2
28Malozevik7a **6
29Al evosia8b  
30Chantaje emocional8b * 
31Piel palida7c+ **2
32Rascayu7c * 
33Yonky tronky7b 4
34El frescuni6c+ **7
35Sin sospecha7a **11
36Ojos que no ven7b *2
37Los fabulosos manowar6c+ 2
38El lengueton6b+ *6
39Finita mix7a+ 1
40Diedro candela7a+ ***13
41Regional Preferente
42Vitamin bidon7c ***2
43Iron Maiden8a+ ** 
44Poison Jiménez
45Mijya-tovik8a+ *** 
46Supertiri8a ***1
47Vas de pro8a *** 
48Diedro 4+15a *11
49Ano mariana6c  
50Airbag6c 1
51El triguevo6a+ **13
52Straight Up6a+ *6
53El biyema6b+ *7
54Papa piquillo6c **8
55Gota a gota6b+ **6
56El milagro de p. tinto6b *4
58S'acabo Left6c  

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