Agden Rocher

Climbs 148 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 340m a.s.l – Faces SW

Access notes
Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Eastern Grit (2006), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006),
Out of print: Peak Climbs - Stanage (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 DEADNETTLE CRACK AREA 
2Hypotenuse WallVD
3Square ChimneyVD
4Arachnid CracksHS 4a
5TarantulaVS 4b
6The New Foggy DewS 4a
7The Bits With Hairs OnHVS 5b *
8DemolitionVS 4a
9SandymanE2 5c
10Deadnettle CrackVD
11ProtozoanHS 4a
12PyrologyVS 4b
13CatherineVS 4c
14Tartan SlabVS 4c *
15Agden AreteHS 4a
16Boadicea's WallVD
17IceniVS 4c
18JudasVS 4c
19Hey JudeE2 5b
20Fourth ApostleVS 4b
21Savoury CrunchHVS 5a
22HaggHS 4a
 WAILING WALL AREA 
24Narrow MindedE1 5c
25Double De-ClutchVS 4c *
26DisappointmentVD
27Oak Tree SaunterVD
28AberrationHVS 5a *
29Death-Throes in the HedgerowsE1 5c
30Funeral CrackS 4a
31Grey WallVS 4b
32Bradfield AreteS 4a
33Q.E.D.S 4a
34Then JerichoE1 5b
35Fall of JerichoE2 5b
36Jericho WallVS 4b
37Scarred ClimbHS 4a *
38AaronVS 4c
39Baker StreetVS 4c *
40Lemon EntryVS 4c
41Leaning Block WallVS 4c
42Painter's ClimbS 4a
43NumenoreanHVS 4c
44White Rose FlakeVS 4c *
45MartiniVS 4b *
46Martini CrackVS 4b
47BiancoVS 4b *
48FilthS
49DerisionS 4a
50Extra TastyE4 6a **
51The ResurrectionE2 5b *
52Koh-i-NoorHVS 5b *
 OAK TREE WALL AREA 
54ScarecliffeE3 5c
55Hanging Garden WallS 4a
56Little XVS 4b
57E.N. 24VS 5a *
58Oak Tree WalkVS 4b **
59Flamingo WallHVS 5a *
60Flaming 'ardE1 5b
61Jackdaw CrackVD
62Straight CrackD
63Hard Men Don't Spot Lines Like ThisVD
64Rowan Tree CrackVD
65Bogey's BeaconS 4a
 THE CAMPSITE AREA 
67GimliHVS 5a
68CrumblerE1 5a
69BostonianS 4a
70Bostonian DirectHS 4b
71Dreams by the SeaE2 5c *
72Are We There YetE4 6a *
73Artifax ArêteE3 5b *
74Man of GodHS 4a
75LibraHVS 4c
76Armstrong's EliminateE4 5c
77Scouting For BoysE3 5c *
78Campsite CrackS 4a **
79Paul's Arête StartE1 5b
80David's Other StartE2 5c
81Indirect StartHS 4a
82Indirect FinishE1 5b
83GeminiVS 4c
84Mike's RouteHVS 5a
85Begum BeharVS 5a
86Jalfrezee Jug FestS 4a
87The GatepostVD
88Min-ArêteE1 5b
89NillVS 4a
90HarlequinadeVD
 WHITTLER WALL 
92Cock o' the NorthS 4a
93Spring Lamb DopiazzaVS 4c
94The AvenueE2 5c
95Briggs' and Titterton'sHVS 5b **
96Lemon SqueezyHVS 5b
97The WhittlerVS 4c *
98Gordon's ClimbVS 4c
99The TittlerHVS 4c
100CastorE1 5c *
101Wheat ThinE4 6a **
102PolluxE1 5b **
103Three Pitch ClimbS 4a
104Double ShuffleHS 4a
105Twentyman's TerrorHS 4a
106The Flying DutchmanVS 4a
107Scratching AroundE2 5c
108SchizontVS 4c
109Lundy HighE1 5b
110ChainsHVS 5b
111Chicken WallVS 4c
112Chicken RunVS 5a
 S.C.A.C. WALL 
114The Wall EndVS 4c
115Mollie's ClimbS 4a
116Mollie's Climb Direct FinishVS 4b
117Little JohnS 4a
118Bull CrackVS 4b
119Chicken Silly HotHVS 5b
120Hollow VictoryE1 5a
121Deceptive CrackS 4a
122TiptoeVS 4b
123Still LifeHS 4a
124Artist's AreteS 4a
125MinskHS 4a
126HedonyHS 4a
127Chauv's Last StandVS 4b
 GREAT WALL 
129May ClimbS 4a
130Harry the Dog TosserE1 5b
131OcydromaE3 5b
132Ignis FatuusE3 5c *
133Limbus FatuorumHVS 5a
134Conjunctus ViribusE1 5b **
135AsterisE1 5c **
136Monster MunchE4 6a **
137Speak EasyE3 5c
138S.O.S.VS 4b *
139InsurrectionVS 5a
140Rescue RouteVS
141The Great Wall TraverseVS 4c
142Hit and Run DriverE3 5c *
143ArduaE1 5b *
144Yewberry GrooveHS
145Terrace TraverseS 4a
146JaffaE1 5b *
147The SnipE1 5b *
 SAINTS' WALL 
149Black WallVS 4b
150Black Corner and FlakeHS 4b
151Black Corner Right WallS 4a
152St OliverHS 4a
153St GeorgeS 4a
154St PeterS 4a
155St JohnVS 4b
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Simon Caldwell

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Although the crag is a bit on the overgrown side and it's chossy on top it's a really nice quiet place to climb. It could do with a clean, a bit more traffic, and a few more belay stakes at the top to simplify things a bit but with a bit of care it's a great place to climb. One other thing to note is that it's sandstone not grit and stated above.
gethin_allen - 04/Sep/10
First visit to Agden Rocher today on a baking hot sunday. What a great idea is what to come here! I can only imagine how busy the more popular peak edges would have been but we saw only two other teams here all day. The trees provided a great amount of shade at the base of the crag and we got some quality routes done. Enjoyed the Whittler quite a lot. Will be making a return trip.
tom290483 - 23/May/10
The unstable section at the right hand end of the crag is now rather more stable than it was, as the hanging block of death is now on the ground at the bottom! The remaining rock looks reasonably sound, but will need a while to settle down...
Simon Caldwell - 07/Nov/09
I must defend the crag from this unwarranted attack! OK, maybe not entirely unwarranted, the trees can be a pain, and the vegetation could do with some controlling (just more people climbing here would be enough). But in all the times I've climbed here I've never had an trouble with green rock, and that's at all times of year from mid=summer to mid-winter. The unstable section at the right is the result of a rockfall in the mid 70s. As long as you avoid the obvious hanging block of death, it's all perfectly climbable, and even the hanging block is probably more sturdy that it looks, it's lasted over 30 years so far! The New Foggy Dew is a particularly fine route in that area. The main issue is lack of traffic. In all the times I've been there in the last 4 or 5 years, we've never seen more than one other team - and usually we have it to ourselves. So stop dissing the crag, you'll put people of going there!
Simon Caldwell - 26/Oct/09
I write this almost as a crag obituary.In the early seventies we climbed five or six times a year at this crag. Yes it was a little loose in places and the rock a little friable. However the crag caught the sun and in winter could be a nice place to climb.I have visited today on a dry October day and find the crag all but overgrown, green, slippery, very loose and in the main unclimbable. The crag is not beyond hope but the main problem is the amount of tree growth on the crag. As most of the trees causing the green rock are either Oaks or old Yew I cannot see them being cut. The right hand end of the crag has a very unstable section which should be avoided for safety reasons. As mentioned the crag is not beyond hope. If more people climbed at Agden, holds cleaned and there was some general tidying up ( Under direction of the correct authority)the crag may still be a lovely place to go with nice views and sunny aspect.Many of the belay stakes at the top of the crag are still servicable but the top of the routes are very overgrown. There are still one or two clean and worthwhile routes White Rose Flake still looks clean. However even the classic campsite crack is in need of gardening and would not currently rate its two stars. I am sorry to say I walked away from this crag and went to the pub instead.A sad day as many of my young climbing days were spent here.
Marcus Tierney - 23/Oct/09
A somewhat forgotten crag probably due to some access problems in the past. A helmet is a must as there is loose rock especially on the tops. Worth a visit and the crag has nice views. Do not expect perfect rock ! Not a place for families at the bottom of the crag.
Marcus Tierney - 22/Oct/04
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These details were last updated on 08/Jul/2010
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