Agden Rocher

Climbs 147 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 340m a.s.l – Faces SW

Access notes
Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Eastern Grit (2006), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006),
Out of print: Peak Climbs - Stanage (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Hypotenuse WallVD 9
3Square ChimneyVD 13
4Arachnid CracksHS 4a 5
5TarantulaVS 4b 6
6The New Foggy DewS 4a 1
7The Bits With Hairs OnHVS 5b *4
8DemolitionVS 4a 3
9SandymanE2 5c  
10Deadnettle CrackVD 18
11ProtozoanHS 4a 12
12PyrologyVS 4b 4
13CatherineVS 4c  
14Tartan SlabVS 4c *16
15Agden AreteHS 4a 8
16Boadicea's WallVD 1
17IceniVS 4c 1
18JudasVS 4c  
19Hey JudeE2 5b  
20Fourth ApostleVS 4b  
21Savoury CrunchHVS 5a  
22HaggHS 4a 5
24Narrow MindedE1 5c  
25Double De-ClutchVS 4c *17
26DisappointmentVD 6
27Oak Tree SaunterVD 1
28AberrationHVS 5a *10
29Death-Throes in the HedgerowsE1 5c 1
30Funeral CrackS 4a 5
31Grey WallVS 4b 16
32Bradfield AreteS 4a 1
33Q.E.D.S 4a 2
34Then JerichoE1 5b  
35Fall of JerichoE2 5b  
36Jericho WallVS 4b 24
37Scarred ClimbHS 4a *43
38AaronVS 4c 3
39Baker StreetVS 4c *14
40Lemon EntryVS 4c  
41Leaning Block WallVS 4c 4
42Painter's ClimbS 4a 9
43NumenoreanHVS 4c 2
44White Rose FlakeVS 4c *43
45MartiniVS 4b *57
46Martini CrackVS 4b 15
47BiancoVS 4b *65
48FilthS 24
49DerisionS 4a 6
50Extra TastyE4 6a **1
51The ResurrectionE2 5b *6
52Koh-i-NoorHVS 5b *13
54ScarecliffeE3 5c  
55Hanging Garden WallS 4a 4
56Little XVS 4b  
57E.N. 24VS 5a *14
58Oak Tree WalkVS 4b **76
59Flamingo WallHVS 5a *17
60Flaming 'ardE1 5b  
61Jackdaw CrackVD 3
62Straight CrackD 4
63Hard Men Don't Spot Lines Like ThisVD  
64Rowan Tree CrackVD 1
65Bogey's BeaconS 4a  
67GimliHVS 5a  
68CrumblerE1 5a  
69BostonianS 4a  
70Bostonian DirectHS 4b  
71Dreams by the SeaE2 5c * 
72Are We There YetE4 6a * 
73Artifax ArêteE3 5b *1
74Man of GodHS 4a 15
75LibraHVS 4c 1
76Armstrong's EliminateE4 5c 1
77Scouting For BoysE3 5c *4
78Campsite CrackS 4a **89
79Paul's Arête StartE1 5b 1
80David's Other StartE2 5c  
81Indirect StartHS 4a  
82Indirect FinishE1 5b 1
83GeminiVS 4c 7
84Mike's RouteHVS 5a  
85Begum BeharVS 5a  
86Jalfrezee Jug FestS 4a  
87The GatepostVD  
88Min-ArêteE1 5b  
89NillVS 4a  
90HarlequinadeVD 1
92Cock o' the NorthS 4a 10
93Spring Lamb DopiazzaVS 4c 2
94The AvenueE2 5c 1
95Briggs' and Titterton'sHVS 5b **62
96Lemon SqueezyHVS 5b 2
97The WhittlerVS 4c *69
98Gordon's ClimbVS 4c 1
99The TittlerHVS 4c  
100CastorE1 5c *15
101Wheat ThinE4 6a **2
102PolluxE1 5b **63
103Three Pitch ClimbS 4a 4
104Double ShuffleHS 4a 7
105Twentyman's TerrorHS 4a 8
106The Flying DutchmanVS 4a  
107Scratching AroundE2 5c  
108SchizontVS 4c 1
109Lundy HighE1 5b 1
110ChainsHVS 5b  
111Chicken WallVS 4c 1
112Chicken RunVS 5a  
 S.C.A.C. WALL  
114The Wall EndVS 4c  
115Mollie's ClimbS 4a 3
116Mollie's Climb Direct FinishVS 4b  
117Little JohnS 4a 3
118Bull CrackVS 4b  
119Chicken Silly HotHVS 5b  
120Hollow VictoryE1 5a  
121Deceptive CrackS 4a 5
122TiptoeVS 4b 1
123Still LifeHS 4a 3
124Artist's AreteS 4a 3
125MinskHS 4a 4
126HedonyHS 4a 2
127Chauv's Last StandVS 4b 2
129May ClimbS 4a  
130Harry the Dog TosserE1 5b  
131OcydromaE3 5b  
132Ignis FatuusE3 5c *3
133Limbus FatuorumHVS 5a  
134Conjunctus ViribusE1 5b **42
135AsterisE1 5c **43
136Monster MunchE4 6a **2
137Speak EasyE3 5c  
138S.O.S.VS 4b *46
139InsurrectionVS 5a  
140Rescue RouteVS  
141The Great Wall TraverseVS 4c 3
142Hit and Run DriverE3 5c * 
143ArduaE1 5b *11
144Yewberry GrooveHS  
145Terrace TraverseS 4a 2
146JaffaE1 5b *7
147The SnipE1 5b *3
149Black WallVS 4b  
150Black Corner and FlakeHS 4b  
151Black Corner Right WallS 4a  
152St OliverHS 4a  
153St GeorgeS 4a  
154St PeterS 4a 1
155St JohnVS 4b  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Simon Caldwell

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Although the crag is a bit on the overgrown side and it's chossy on top it's a really nice quiet place to climb. It could do with a clean, a bit more traffic, and a few more belay stakes at the top to simplify things a bit but with a bit of care it's a great place to climb. One other thing to note is that it's sandstone not grit and stated above.
gethin_allen - 04/Sep/10
First visit to Agden Rocher today on a baking hot sunday. What a great idea is what to come here! I can only imagine how busy the more popular peak edges would have been but we saw only two other teams here all day. The trees provided a great amount of shade at the base of the crag and we got some quality routes done. Enjoyed the Whittler quite a lot. Will be making a return trip.
tom290483 - 23/May/10
The unstable section at the right hand end of the crag is now rather more stable than it was, as the hanging block of death is now on the ground at the bottom! The remaining rock looks reasonably sound, but will need a while to settle down...
Simon Caldwell - 07/Nov/09
I must defend the crag from this unwarranted attack! OK, maybe not entirely unwarranted, the trees can be a pain, and the vegetation could do with some controlling (just more people climbing here would be enough). But in all the times I've climbed here I've never had an trouble with green rock, and that's at all times of year from mid=summer to mid-winter. The unstable section at the right is the result of a rockfall in the mid 70s. As long as you avoid the obvious hanging block of death, it's all perfectly climbable, and even the hanging block is probably more sturdy that it looks, it's lasted over 30 years so far! The New Foggy Dew is a particularly fine route in that area. The main issue is lack of traffic. In all the times I've been there in the last 4 or 5 years, we've never seen more than one other team - and usually we have it to ourselves. So stop dissing the crag, you'll put people of going there!
Simon Caldwell - 26/Oct/09
I write this almost as a crag obituary.In the early seventies we climbed five or six times a year at this crag. Yes it was a little loose in places and the rock a little friable. However the crag caught the sun and in winter could be a nice place to climb.I have visited today on a dry October day and find the crag all but overgrown, green, slippery, very loose and in the main unclimbable. The crag is not beyond hope but the main problem is the amount of tree growth on the crag. As most of the trees causing the green rock are either Oaks or old Yew I cannot see them being cut. The right hand end of the crag has a very unstable section which should be avoided for safety reasons. As mentioned the crag is not beyond hope. If more people climbed at Agden, holds cleaned and there was some general tidying up ( Under direction of the correct authority)the crag may still be a lovely place to go with nice views and sunny aspect.Many of the belay stakes at the top of the crag are still servicable but the top of the routes are very overgrown. There are still one or two clean and worthwhile routes White Rose Flake still looks clean. However even the classic campsite crack is in need of gardening and would not currently rate its two stars. I am sorry to say I walked away from this crag and went to the pub instead.A sad day as many of my young climbing days were spent here.
Marcus Tierney - 23/Oct/09
A somewhat forgotten crag probably due to some access problems in the past. A helmet is a must as there is loose rock especially on the tops. Worth a visit and the crag has nice views. Do not expect perfect rock ! Not a place for families at the bottom of the crag.
Marcus Tierney - 22/Oct/04
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These details were last updated on 08/Jul/2010

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