Agden Rocher

Climbs 148 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 312m a.s.l – Faces SW

Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Eastern Grit (2015), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006),
Out of print: Eastern Grit (2006) (2006), Peak Climbs - Stanage (1989)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGrade
2Hypotenuse WallVD 8
3Square ChimneyVD 13
4Arachnid CracksHS 4a 5
5TarantulaVS 4b 6
6 The New Foggy DewS 4a 1
7The Bits With Hairs OnHVS 5b *7
8DemolitionVS 4a 3
9SandymanE2 5c  
11Deadnettle CrackS 4a *20
12ProtozoanHS 4a 12
13PyrologyVS 4b 5
14CatherineVS 4c  
15Tartan SlabVS 4c *18
16Agden AreteS 4b 9
17Boadicea's WallS 4b 1
18IceniVS 4c 1
19JudasVS 4c  
20Hey JudeE2 5b  
21Fourth ApostleVS 4b  
22Savoury CrunchHVS 5a  
23HaggS 4a 5
25Narrow MindedE1 5c  
26Double De-ClutchHVS 5a *21
27DisappointmentVD 7
28Oak Tree SaunterVD 3
29AberrationHVS 5a *13
30Death-Throes in the HedgerowsE1 5c 1
31Funeral CrackS 4a *6
32Grey WallVS 4b 18
33Bradfield AreteS 4a 2
34Q.E.D.S 4a 2
35Then JerichoE1 5b  
36Fall of JerichoE2 5b  
37Jericho WallHS 4a 28
38Scarred ClimbHS 4a *52
39AaronVS 4c 3
40Baker StreetVS 4c *19
41Lemon EntryVS 4c  
42Leaning Block WallVS 4c 4
43Painter's ClimbS 4a 11
44NumenoreanVS 4c *5
45White Rose FlakeVS 4c *49
46MartiniVS 4b *59
47Martini CrackVS 4b *17
48BiancoVS 4b *75
49FilthHVD 4a 24
50DerisionS 4a 6
51Extra TastyE4 6a 3
52The ResurrectionE2 5b *9
53Koh-i-NoorHVS 5a *15
54TaurusVS 4c  
56ScarecliffeE3 5c  
57Hanging Garden WallS 4a 4
58Little XVS 4b  
59E.N. 24VS 5a 19
60Oak Tree WalkVS 4b *87
61Flamingo WallHVS 5a *19
62Flaming 'ardE1 5b  
63Jackdaw CrackVD 3
64Straight CrackD 4
65Hard Men Don't Spot Lines Like ThisVD  
66Rowan Tree CrackVD 1
67Bogey's BeaconS 4a  
69GimliHVS 5a  
70CrumblerE1 5a  
71BostonianS 4a  
72Bostonian DirectHS 4b  
73Dreams by the SeaE2 5c * 
74Are We There YetE4 6a * 
75Artifax ArÍteE3 5c *2
76Man of GodVS 4b *18
77LibraHVS 4c 1
78Armstrong's EliminateE4 5c 1
79Scouting For BoysE3 5c *5
80Campsite CrackS 4a **105
81Paul's ArÍte StartE1 5b 1
82David's Other StartE2 5c  
83Indirect StartS 4a 4
84Indirect FinishE1 5b 2
85GeminiVS 4c 11
86Mike's RouteHVS 5a  
87Begum BeharVS 5a  
88Jalfrezee Jug FestS 4a  
89The GatepostVD  
90Min-ArÍteE1 5b  
91NillVS 4a  
92HarlequinadeVD 2
94Cock o' the NorthS 4a 10
95Spring Lamb DopiazzaVS 4c 3
96The AvenueE2 5c 1
97Briggs' and Titterton'sHVS 5b *71
98Lemon SqueezyHVS 5b 3
99The WhittlerVS 4c **81
100Gordon's ClimbVS 4c 1
101The TittlerHVS 4c  
102CastorE1 5c **17
103Wheat ThinE4 6a *1
104PolluxE1 5b **73
105Three Pitch ClimbS 4a 4
106Double ShuffleHS 4a 7
107Twentyman's TerrorHS 4a 8
108The Flying DutchmanVS 4a  
109Scratching AroundE2 5c  
110SchizontVS 4c 1
111Lundy HighE1 5b 1
112ChainsHVS 5b 2
113Chicken WallVS 4c 3
114Chicken RunVS 5a 2
 S.C.A.C. WALL  
116The Wall EndVS 4c  
117Mollie's ClimbS 4a 3
118Mollie's Climb Direct FinishVS 4b  
119Little JohnS 4a 3
120Bull CrackVS 4b 1
121Chicken Silly HotHVS 5b  
122Hollow VictoryE1 5a  
123Deceptive CrackS 4a 5
124TiptoeVS 4b 1
125Still LifeHS 4a 3
126Artist's AreteS 4a 3
127MinskHS 4a 4
128HedonyHS 4a 2
129Chauv's Last StandVS 4b 2
131May ClimbS 4a  
132Harry the Dog TosserE1 5b  
133OcydromaE3 5b  
134Ignis FatuusE3 5c 9
135Limbus FatuorumHVS 5a  
136Conjunctus ViribusE1 5b **52
137AsterisE1 5c **48
138Monster MunchE4 6a *1
139Speak EasyE3 5c  
140S.O.S.VS 4b *46
141InsurrectionVS 5a  
142Rescue RouteVS  
143The Great Wall TraverseVS 4c 3
144Hit and Run DriverE3 5c * 
145ArduaE1 5b *65535
146Yewberry GrooveHS  
147Terrace TraverseS 4a 2
148JaffaE1 5b 2
149The SnipE2 5b 4
151Black WallVS 4b  
152Black Corner and FlakeHS 4b  
153Black Corner Right WallS 4a  
154St OliverHS 4a  
155St GeorgeS 4a  
156St PeterS 4a 1
157St JohnVS 4b  
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Although the crag is a bit on the overgrown side and it's chossy on top it's a really nice quiet place to climb. It could do with a clean, a bit more traffic, and a few more belay stakes at the top to simplify things a bit but with a bit of care it's a great place to climb. One other thing to note is that it's sandstone not grit and stated above.
gethin_allen - 04/Sep/10
First visit to Agden Rocher today on a baking hot sunday. What a great idea is what to come here! I can only imagine how busy the more popular peak edges would have been but we saw only two other teams here all day. The trees provided a great amount of shade at the base of the crag and we got some quality routes done. Enjoyed the Whittler quite a lot. Will be making a return trip.
tom290483 - 23/May/10
The unstable section at the right hand end of the crag is now rather more stable than it was, as the hanging block of death is now on the ground at the bottom! The remaining rock looks reasonably sound, but will need a while to settle down...
Simon Caldwell - 07/Nov/09
I must defend the crag from this unwarranted attack! OK, maybe not entirely unwarranted, the trees can be a pain, and the vegetation could do with some controlling (just more people climbing here would be enough). But in all the times I've climbed here I've never had an trouble with green rock, and that's at all times of year from mid=summer to mid-winter. The unstable section at the right is the result of a rockfall in the mid 70s. As long as you avoid the obvious hanging block of death, it's all perfectly climbable, and even the hanging block is probably more sturdy that it looks, it's lasted over 30 years so far! The New Foggy Dew is a particularly fine route in that area. The main issue is lack of traffic. In all the times I've been there in the last 4 or 5 years, we've never seen more than one other team - and usually we have it to ourselves. So stop dissing the crag, you'll put people of going there!
Simon Caldwell - 26/Oct/09
I write this almost as a crag obituary.In the early seventies we climbed five or six times a year at this crag. Yes it was a little loose in places and the rock a little friable. However the crag caught the sun and in winter could be a nice place to climb.I have visited today on a dry October day and find the crag all but overgrown, green, slippery, very loose and in the main unclimbable. The crag is not beyond hope but the main problem is the amount of tree growth on the crag. As most of the trees causing the green rock are either Oaks or old Yew I cannot see them being cut. The right hand end of the crag has a very unstable section which should be avoided for safety reasons. As mentioned the crag is not beyond hope. If more people climbed at Agden, holds cleaned and there was some general tidying up ( Under direction of the correct authority)the crag may still be a lovely place to go with nice views and sunny aspect.Many of the belay stakes at the top of the crag are still servicable but the top of the routes are very overgrown. There are still one or two clean and worthwhile routes White Rose Flake still looks clean. However even the classic campsite crack is in need of gardening and would not currently rate its two stars. I am sorry to say I walked away from this crag and went to the pub instead.A sad day as many of my young climbing days were spent here.
Marcus Tierney - 23/Oct/09
A somewhat forgotten crag probably due to some access problems in the past. A helmet is a must as there is loose rock especially on the tops. Worth a visit and the crag has nice views. Do not expect perfect rock ! Not a place for families at the bottom of the crag.
Marcus Tierney - 22/Oct/04