Climbs 148
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 312m a.s.l
Faces SW

Naturally sculpted rock © Simon Caldwell

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info
More Guidebooks:
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005)

Out of print:
Although the crag is a bit on the overgrown side and it's chossy on top it's a really nice quiet place to climb. It could do with a clean, a bit more traffic, and a few more belay stakes at the top to simplify things a bit but with a bit of care it's a great place to climb. One other thing to note is that it's sandstone not grit and stated above.
gethin_allen - 04/Sep/10
First visit to Agden Rocher today on a baking hot sunday. What a great idea is what to come here! I can only imagine how busy the more popular peak edges would have been but we saw only two other teams here all day. The trees provided a great amount of shade at the base of the crag and we got some quality routes done. Enjoyed the Whittler quite a lot. Will be making a return trip.
tom290483 - 23/May/10
The unstable section at the right hand end of the crag is now rather more stable than it was, as the hanging block of death is now on the ground at the bottom! The remaining rock looks reasonably sound, but will need a while to settle down...
Simon Caldwell - 07/Nov/09
I must defend the crag from this unwarranted attack! OK, maybe not entirely unwarranted, the trees can be a pain, and the vegetation could do with some controlling (just more people climbing here would be enough). But in all the times I've climbed here I've never had an trouble with green rock, and that's at all times of year from mid=summer to mid-winter. The unstable section at the right is the result of a rockfall in the mid 70s. As long as you avoid the obvious hanging block of death, it's all perfectly climbable, and even the hanging block is probably more sturdy that it looks, it's lasted over 30 years so far! The New Foggy Dew is a particularly fine route in that area. The main issue is lack of traffic. In all the times I've been there in the last 4 or 5 years, we've never seen more than one other team - and usually we have it to ourselves. So stop dissing the crag, you'll put people of going there!
Simon Caldwell - 26/Oct/09
I write this almost as a crag obituary.In the early seventies we climbed five or six times a year at this crag. Yes it was a little loose in places and the rock a little friable. However the crag caught the sun and in winter could be a nice place to climb.I have visited today on a dry October day and find the crag all but overgrown, green, slippery, very loose and in the main unclimbable. The crag is not beyond hope but the main problem is the amount of tree growth on the crag. As most of the trees causing the green rock are either Oaks or old Yew I cannot see them being cut. The right hand end of the crag has a very unstable section which should be avoided for safety reasons. As mentioned the crag is not beyond hope. If more people climbed at Agden, holds cleaned and there was some general tidying up ( Under direction of the correct authority)the crag may still be a lovely place to go with nice views and sunny aspect.Many of the belay stakes at the top of the crag are still servicable but the top of the routes are very overgrown. There are still one or two clean and worthwhile routes White Rose Flake still looks clean. However even the classic campsite crack is in need of gardening and would not currently rate its two stars. I am sorry to say I walked away from this crag and went to the pub instead.A sad day as many of my young climbing days were spent here.
Marcus Tierney - 23/Oct/09
A somewhat forgotten crag probably due to some access problems in the past. A helmet is a must as there is loose rock especially on the tops. Worth a visit and the crag has nice views. Do not expect perfect rock ! Not a place for families at the bottom of the crag.
Marcus Tierney - 22/Oct/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Deadnettle Crack Area 
2Hypotenuse Wall
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VD 9
3Square Chimney
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VD 13
4Arachnid Cracks
-
HS 4a 5
5Tarantula
-
VS 4b 6
6 The New Foggy DewS 4a 1
7The Bits With Hairs On
-
HVS 5b *8
8Demolition
-
VS 4a 3
9Sandyman
-
E2 5c  
 Right-hand Walls 
11Deadnettle CrackS 4a *22
12ProtozoanHS 4a 12
13Pyrology
-
VS 4b 5
14Catherine
-
VS 4c  
15Tartan SlabVS 4c *20
16Agden AreteS 4b 10
17Boadicea's WallS 4b 1
18IceniVS 4c 2
19Judas
-
VS 4c  
20Hey Jude
-
E2 5b  
21Fourth Apostle
-
VS 4b  
22Savoury Crunch
-
HVS 5a  
23HaggS 4a 5
 Wailing Wall Area 
25Narrow Minded
-
E1 5c  
26Double De-ClutchHVS 5a *23
27Disappointment
-
VD 7
28Oak Tree SaunterVD 3
29AberrationHVS 5a *16
30Death-Throes in the Hedgerows
-
E1 5c 1
31Funeral CrackS 4a *6
32Grey WallVS 4b 17
33Bradfield Arete
-
S 4a 2
34Q.E.D.
-
S 4a 2
35Then Jericho
-
E1 5b  
36Fall of Jericho
-
E2 5b  
37Jericho WallHS 4a 29
38Scarred ClimbHS 4a *57
39AaronVS 4c 3
40Baker StreetVS 4c *21
41Lemon Entry
-
VS 4c  
42Leaning Block Wall
-
VS 4c 4
43Painter's ClimbS 4a 10
44NumenoreanVS 4c *5
45White Rose FlakeVS 4c *54
46MartiniVS 4b *63
47Martini CrackVS 4b *19
48BiancoVS 4b *82
49FilthHVD 4a 24
50DerisionS 4a 6
51Extra TastyE4 6a 1
52The ResurrectionE2 5b *10
53Koh-i-NoorHVS 5a *20
54TaurusVS 4c 1
 Oak Tree Wall Area 
56Scarecliffe
-
E3 5c  
57Hanging Garden WallS 4a 4
58Little XVS 4b  
59E.N. 24VS 5a 20
60Oak Tree WalkVS 4b *106
61Flamingo WallHVS 5a *21
62Flaming 'ard
-
E1 5b  
63Jackdaw Crack
-
VD 3
64Straight Crack
-
D 4
65Hard Men Don't Spot Lines Like This
-
VD  
66Rowan Tree Crack
-
VD 1
67Bogey's Beacon
-
S 4a  
 Campsite Crack 
69Gimli
-
HVS 5a  
70Crumbler
-
E1 5a  
71Bostonian
-
S 4a  
72Bostonian Direct
-
HS 4b  
73Dreams by the Sea
-
E2 5c * 
74Are We There Yet
-
E4 6a * 
75Artifax ArÍteE3 5c *2
76Man of GodVS 4b *18
77Libra
-
HVS 4c 1
78Armstrong's Eliminate
-
E4 5c 1
79Scouting For BoysE3 5c *5
80Campsite CrackS 4a **112
81Paul's ArÍte Start
-
E1 5b 1
82David's Other Start
-
E2 5c  
83Indirect StartS 4a 3
84Indirect Finish
-
E1 5b 2
85GeminiVS 4c 7
86Mike's RouteHVS 5a  
87Begum Behar
-
VS 5a  
88Jalfrezee Jug Fest
-
S 4a  
89The Gatepost
-
VD  
90Min-ArÍte
-
E1 5b  
91Nill
-
VS 4a  
92Harlequinade
-
VD 2
 The Whittler 
94Cock o' the NorthS 4a 11
95Spring Lamb Dopiazza
-
VS 4c 3
96The Avenue
-
E2 5c 2
97Briggs' and Titterton'sHVS 5b *75
98Lemon Squeezy
-
HVS 5b 3
99The WhittlerVS 4c **99
100Gordon's ClimbVS 4c 1
101The Tittler
-
HVS 4c  
102CastorE1 5c **22
103Wheat ThinE4 6a *2
104PolluxE1 5b **79
105Three Pitch Climb
-
S 4a 4
106Double Shuffle
-
HS 4a 8
107Twentyman's Terror
-
HS 4a 8
108The Flying Dutchman
-
VS 4a  
109Scratching Around
-
E2 5c 1
110Schizont
-
VS 4c 1
111Lundy High
-
E1 5b 1
112Chains
-
HVS 5b 2
113Chicken Wall
-
VS 4c 4
114Chicken Run
-
VS 5a 2
 S.C.A.C. Wall 
116The Wall End
-
VS 4c  
117Mollie's Climb
-
S 4a 3
118Mollie's Climb Direct Finish
-
VS 4b  
119Little John
-
S 4a 3
120Bull Crack
-
VS 4b 1
121Chicken Silly Hot
-
HVS 5b  
122Hollow Victory
-
E1 5a  
123Deceptive Crack
-
S 4a 5
124Tiptoe
-
VS 4b 1
125Still Life
-
HS 4a 3
126Artist's Arete
-
S 4a 3
127Minsk
-
HS 4a 4
128Hedony
-
HS 4a 2
129Chauv's Last Stand
-
VS 4b 2
 Great Wall 
131May Climb
-
S 4a  
132Harry the Dog Tosser
-
E1 5b  
133Ocydroma
-
E3 5b  
134Ignis FatuusE3 5c 9
135Limbus FatuorumHVS 5a  
136Conjunctus ViribusE1 5b **60
137AsterisE1 5c **53
138Monster MunchE4 6a *3
139Speak Easy
-
E3 5c  
140S.O.S.VS 4b *63
141InsurrectionVS 5a  
142Rescue RouteVS  
143The Great Wall TraverseVS 4c 3
144Hit and Run Driver
-
E3 5c *2
145ArduaE1 5b *20
146Yewberry Groove
-
HS  
147Terrace Traverse
-
S 4a 2
148JaffaE1 5b 15
149The SnipE2 5b 7
 Saints' Wall 
151Black Wall
-
VS 4b  
152Black Corner and FlakeHS 4b  
153Black Corner Right WallS 4a  
154St Oliver
-
HS 4a  
155St George
-
S 4a  
156St Peter
-
S 4a 1
157St John
-
VS 4b  

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