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These details were last updated on 01/Nov/2011

Birchen Edge

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 288 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A fine, natural edge in an elevated position overlooking the Derwent Valley. Excellent, quick-drying clean grit (up to 15m), climbable at all times of the year (occasionally sandy after rain). Large number of low grade routes make this a beginner's (and unfortunately Outdoor Pursuit Group's) favourite spot. Often busy but loads to choose from. Don't miss the classic VSs, The Crow's Nest, Top Sail, Sail Buttress, Trafalgar Wall and Nelson's Nemesis.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales – Met Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Peak Gritstone East (2001), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 FAR LEFT  
2PortsideHS 4b 8
3The BrinyE1 5b 3
4StarboardsideHS 4b 9
5Bosun's NoseS 4c 104
6Bosun's CrackVD 178
7Bosun's WallVD 4a 147
8The GangplankM *621
 POOP DECK  
10Crack left of Handy crackVD 4a 41
11Handy CrackVD 422
12Wall right of Handy CrackV0- 4b *17
13Visitors OnlyHS 4a *346
14Wall right of Visitors OnlyV1 5b 12
15All AboardD 335
16Saltheart FoamfollowerHVS 5b 63
17Poop Deck CrackHVD 4a *230
18The PirateE2 6b 1
 THE CROW'S NEST  
20Dan's AreteV6 6b 6
21Crow's FeetV2 5c 5
22The CabinV4 6b 45
23Cabin BoyV5 6b 31
24Sling Your HammockV1 ***6
25Disabled SeamanV3 6a 16
26LogV1 5c 16
27Land Ho!S 4c 128
28The Crow's NestVS 4c **609
29Scrim NetE1 6a 60
30Scrim Net StartV3 6a *20
31Lookout AreteS 4a *165
32The FunnelHD **389
33Kiss Me HardyVD *398
34The DancerE1 5c 7
35Kiss Me Arse (Sit Start)V5 6b 27
36Kiss Me Arse (Standing Start)V3 6b 23
37Monocled MonoV5 6b 15
38Kiss Me SoftyV3 6b 20
39Victory CrackHS 4b **424
40Victory GullyS 4a 207
 EMMA'S SLAB  
42Emma's SlabVS 4b 357
43Technical GeniusV6 6b *19
44Technical Genius (sit start)f7A+ **1
45Technical Genius AreteV4 6a *11
46Emma's DilemmaS 4b **910
47Emma RoydVS 4c 212
48Emma's TemptationVD 4c *786
49Emma's DelightHS 4b *516
50DeludedHS 4b 187
51Emma's DelusionS 4a *317
52The ProwVS 5a 499
53ArtificialVD 45
54Oak GullyM 42
55Oak TowerVD 41
56Heather CornerD 30
57Heather Corner SlabM 25
 NELSON'S SLAB  
59The RiggingD 42
60The Bunk LadderHVD 4a 22
61Captain's PrerogativeHS 4c *593
62Captain's BunkHS 4b *526
63Telescope TunnelHD 335
64Captain's CrawlM 89
65Porthole ButtressS 4a *204
66Porthole DirectVS 4b **725
67Porthole Super Super DirectVS 5a 11
68Victor HugoE4 6b * 
69Captain BirdseyeVS 4c 104
70Blind EyeS 4b *171
71The Proprioceptive Octetnone 12
72Admiral's Flushed HeadD 5
73Dead EyeHVS 6a 22
74Nelson's SlabHS 5a **475
75Nelson's Slab Indirect StartHS 4b 23
76Nelson's Slab Direct StartV3 6a 9
77Half NelsonVS 5a *185
78Left Ladder ChimneyD 136
79SplicedS 4a 11
80Right Ladder ChimneyHVD 94
 SAIL BUTTRESS  
82Midshipman / Plain SailingE2 6a ***64
83Nor'-easterHVS 5a 15
84Cold CompassE2 6b *1
85Sail ButtressHS 4b **1201
86Roger the Cabin BoyVS 4c *65
87RatlineHVS 5b ***348
88Amazing GraceE2 5c *3
89Sail ChimneyS 4a ***703
90TopsailVS 4c ***1594
91SpinnakerVS 5a 12
92Monument Chimney CrackVD *281
93Monument ChimneyVD **459
 ORPHEUS WALL  
95Pillar WallS 4a 118
96The BowS 4a 163
97BuggerV1 5b 10
98Orpheus WallHVS 5c **324
99UnderworldV2 6a 9
100PeachesE4 6b ***15
101Peaches StartV3 6a 6
102CreamV5 6b 1
103PixieV1 5c 1
104Pixie (sit start)V5 6b 1
105Monument GullyVD **196
106Book SnifferE6 6b 1
107Monument Gully ButtressHVS 5b 210
108The KeelHVS 5b 97
109Naughty NauticalsE3 6b 9
110The BoomHVS 5a *1
 THE THREE SHIPS  
 VICTORY  
113EuryalusV0- 5a 98
114V for VictoryV0- 4a 132
115Prow LeftV0- 4b 126
116Prow RightV0- 4c 122
117Victor's LedgeVB 50
118Prow Right DynoV4 6b *4
119OrionV0 5b 63
120NeptuneV0- 4b 76
121The Victory TraverseV0- 4a 28
 DEFIANCE  
123FinisterreV0- 4c 91
124St VincentV0- 4c 97
125CalviV0 5a 76
126AboukirV0- 4c 85
127TenerifeV0- 4c 117
128Tenerife Right-HandV0 5b 53
129The Defiance TraverseV1 5a 23
 ROYAL SOVERIN  
131RoyalV0- 5a 78
132BilgeV0- 4b 70
133BuccaneerV0- 4c 56
134Buccaneer LeftV0- 34
135Press GangV1 5b 40
136OrlopV0 5b 58
137The Royal Soverin TraverseVB 23
 THE PROMENADE  
139Cutting CornersHVD 4a 1
140The PromenadeM **766
141Promenade DirectHVD 4b *530
142PromareteV3 6a 15
143The ChainS 4b *475
144Gritstone MegamixV6 6b *9
145HMS DaringV8 6c ***2
146HMS Daring Right HandV8+ 6c  
147Thing on a SpringV4 6b 34
148Hollybush Gully (Birchen)VD 4c *242
149Anchor TraverseHS 4b *129
150Floating AnarchyHVS 5a 28
151Powder Monkey ParadeHS 4b ***1036
152Oarsman Aretef6B+ *3
153OarsmanE1 6b 10
154'Oar 'OuseV6 6c 1
155HornblowerE1 6b *44
 Climb nameGradex
156Obstructive PensionerV7 6c *3
157Jumpers for TrousersV10 7a  
158HangoverE1 5b 52
159Polaris ExitD *160
160Admiral's ProgressD *316
 TRAFALGAR WALL  
162Bulbous BowE1 5c 136
163HammockVS 5b 112
164Camperdown CrawlVS 4c ***1214
165Camperdown Crawl Right Hand VariantVS 5c 28
166Barnacle BulgeVS 4c *619
167Trafalgar CrackVD 4a **1588
168Trafalgar WallS 4b ***1480
169The Defiance VariationV0 5b 9
170Defiance CrackVD 4a 11
171The Long PromenadeVS 4b **25
 STOKER'S WALL  
173Bell Bottom AreteS 4b 189
174Sailor's CrackHS 4b 182
175Sailor's ProblemVD 447
176Whatknot?S 4b 193
177Reef KnotS 4b *485
178Sheet Bend (aka Sheep Bend)S 4b 192
179Nautical CrackVD *657
180Heave HoS 4a 216
181Yo-Ho CrackVD *940
182Rum WallVD 507
183Rum BreakVD 77
184Stoker's BreakVD 567
185Stoker's HoleHS 4a *682
186StokedVD 737
187Stoker's WallD *699
188Stoker's Wall TraverseVD 3c 17
189Stoker's Wall FlakeV0- 4a 18
190Crack right of Stoker's WallM 2c 14
191Chasing the DragonV9 7a  
 COPENHAGEN WALL  
193Copenhagen Wall TraverseS 4a 15
194Copenhagen Corner Left-Hand VariantVD 19
195Copenhagen CornerS 4b 265
196ScandiareteV1 5c 248
197Dane's DelightV0 5a 397
198Dane's DisgustV0 5b 250
199Carlsberg ExportV4 6a 14
200Copenhagen WallHS 5a *337
201The MermaidV9 7a 1
202MP3V8 6b 16
203Wonderful CopenhagenVS 5a *238
204Mast Gully RidgeVD *318
205Mast GullyM 171
 THE FO'C'SLE  
207Mast Gully WallVD 4b 88
208Mast Gully CrackHS 4b *149
209Mast Gully ButtressVS 5a **140
210Fo'c'sle WallVS 4c *245
211Fo'c'sle CrackS 4a **445
212Fo'c'sle ChimneyVD *185
213Fo'c'sle AreteHS 5b *53
214Fo'c'sle Arete (Direct Start)V1 5c 2
215BroadsideE2 6a 18
216LowsideV5 6b 4
217The BuccaneerV6 6b 1
218The BrigandV10 7a 2
219Cave GullyVD *71
 TAR'S WALL  
221Ta Very MuchVS 5a 67
222Tar's AreteVD *253
223Ta Ta For NowHS 5a 190
224Tar's CrackVD *321
225Tar's TeeterVS 4c *9
226Tar's WallS 4c 327
227SodomyV4 6a 12
228Tar's Traverse Left-Hand StartS 4c 22
229Tar's TraverseD 217
230Tar's ClimbM 103
231Tar's CornerD 145
232Tar's GullyM 247
233Pig HeadS 4a 189
234PigtailHVD 4a 214
235WavedanceHS 5b 89
236Prow WallM 167
237Prow GullyM 2c 18
238Prow Gully Prow Left-Hand VariationV0- 4c 1
239Prow Gully ProwHD 3a 17
 BARBETTE BUTTRESS  
241Barbette AreteV0- 4b 16
242Barbette CrackHS 4b 157
243Barbette WallS 4a 110
244Barbette ButtressS 4b *276
245Cannonball CrackHVD 64
246Cannonball WallVD 275
247Cannonball Wall DirectVS 5a 44
248Gunner's GangwayD 207
249Lieutenant's LadderD 117
250Men UnitedV1 5b 8
251Isle of MenV2 5c *8
 GUNNER'S BUTTRESS  
253Midge's ManoeuvreE3 6a 4
254Middy's ManoeuvreHS 4c 92
255MidwayE1 6a 25
256Torpedo TubeS 4a 146
257FlatabackE3 6a 11
258Das BootVS 4c 16
259Gunner's GrooveD 190
260Seasick Arete left hand variationV0 5b 11
261Seasick AreteHS 5a *268
262Seasick SlabVD 4b 387
263Sick as a ParrotHD 4a 20
 WOODEN LEG WALL  
265Three Sheets to the WindHVD 4b 10
266Cabin FeverHVD 4a 68
267Wooden Leg Wall - Left CornerD 3b 16
268Spotted DickV3 6a  
269Moby DickS 4a 125
270Old CodgerVS 4c *64
271Bold CodgerV3 6a 1
272Wooden Leg WallHVS 5c *41
273Owd GadgeeE1 6b 3
274Young GadflyHS 4b 11
275Wooden Leg Wall - Right CornerHD 3c 13
276Stoker's CrackS 4b 75
277Knick KnackHVS 5a 21
278Stoker's SaunterVD 85
279Easy CornerM 24
280Matelot's MeanderS 4a *88
 KISMET BUTTRESS  
282Yard ArmHS 4c 23
283ImplosionHVS 5c 26
284ExplosionHS 5b *144
285Blast Hole WallVS 5b 99
286Cor Limey!HD 3a 16
287Powder KegHVD 4a 30
288RefuseV3 6a 3
289FuseHS 4b *176
290Gun-Cotton GrooveVD *327
291Cook's RibE1 5c *79
292Horatio's DirectVS 4c *116
293Horatio's HorrorS 4a **318
294Heavy CruiserE1 6a  
295Nelson's NemesisVS 4b ***480
296Tom's AreteE5 6b  
297Victory ViceVD *101
298For Queen and CountryVS 4b 36
299DeviceVS 4c *121
300Gunpowder Gully AreteVD 121
301Gunpowder GullyD *88
302Sea Dog SlabHVD 98
303Sea Dog Slab DirectV0- 4b 6
304Sea Dog Slab IndirectV0- 5a 5
305Sailor's chuteHVD 4a 45
306They Think It's All OverVS 4b 4
307It Is NowVD 3c 10
308It Is Now DirectVD 4b 7
309The Chain Direct StartV0 5a 1
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Access notes
From 100m above the Eric Byne car park at SK 279721 on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619) in <15 min.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Whealiebob ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There's a large block halfway up Gun-cotton Groove (VD) on Kismet Buttress which is quite loose. Avoiding using this probably puts it up a grade. Perhaps no longer a "good beginners' climb".
Howard J ? - 04/Aug/10

Just a quick update... Took a youth group from my Church there this weekend and had a fantastic time. We climbed to the right of the monument, using "On Peak Rock" as a guide. First of all, there's about 500m of delicious rock to the right of the monument, which are not covered by the guidebook :( We camped at the Eric Byne memorial site by the Robin Hood Inn. It's run by the really old couple again, after being run by the Peak authority for a while. It's £2.50 pppn, with toilets and fresh water. They now have a bin area which is new since I was last there (2003). Still no campfires, but where can you these days :( Still a superb crag, unbeatable for groups, families, beginners and first-time outdoor lead climbers.
rich in wales - 20/Oct/07

Victory Vice the V Diff on the Kismet Buttress has got bats living in it just a warning!!!
David Hollyer - 30/May/06

I love this crag - Gives us VS climbers the chance for great low grade soloing. Lots of lovely classically grit moves on a small scale.
Reds - 08/Mar/04

Don\'t miss the great bouldering opportunities to be had on the three large boulders on top of the crag. Each boulder has its name carved into the rock and is named after the Flagships of Nelson\'s fleet at the battle of Trafalgar.
Michael Hunt - 20/Jan/02