View larger mapGrid Ref SK 278727 (OS Landranger #119)

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These details were last updated on 19/Jul/2013

Birchen Edge

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 296 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A fine, natural edge in an elevated position overlooking the Derwent Valley. Excellent, quick-drying clean grit (up to 15m), climbable at all times of the year (occasionally sandy after rain). Large number of low grade routes make this a beginner's (and unfortunately Outdoor Pursuit Group's) favourite spot. Often busy but loads to choose from. Don't miss the classic VSs, The Crow's Nest, Top Sail, Sail Buttress, Trafalgar Wall and Nelson's Nemesis.

Access notes
From 100m above the Eric Byne car park at SK 279721 on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619) in <15 min.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

0.7mm rain
Mainly cloudy
19 °C
16 kph

2.9mm rain
Sun
21 °C
11 kph

0.2mm rain
Sunny periods
16 °C
19 kph

2.3mm rain
Cloudy
18 °C
10 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
17 °C
19 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Peak Gritstone East (2001), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 FAR LEFT  
2PortsideHS 4b 9
3The BrinyE1 5b 3
4StarboardsideHS 4b 11
5Bosun's NoseS 4c 116
6Bosun's CrackVD 200
7Bosun's WallS 4a 165
8The GangplankM *701
 POOP DECK  
10Poop CrackVB 4a 51
11Handy CrackD 487
12Handy WallV0- 4b *25
13Visitors OnlyHS 4a *390
14Visitors WallV1 5b 13
15Howships LacunaeV5 *1
16PDCLWV1 5b * 
17All AboardD 389
18Saltheart FoamfollowerHVS 5b 71
19Poop Deck CrackS 4a *262
20The PirateV6 1
 THE CROW'S NEST  
22Disabled SeamanV3 6a 22
23Cabin BoyV5 6b 42
24The CabinV4 6b 59
25LogV1 5c 24
26Sling Your HammockV1 ***15
27Dan's AreteV6 6b 10
28Crow's FeetV2 5c 7
29Land Ho!S 4c 138
30The Crow's NestVS 4c **727
31Scrim NetE1 6a 66
32Scrim Net StartV3 6a *29
33Lookout AreteS 4a *190
34The FunnelHD **438
35Kiss Me HardyS *472
36The DancerE1 5c 11
37Kiss Me Arse (Sit Start)V5 6b 32
38Kiss Me Arse (Standing Start)V3 6b 27
39Monocled MonoV5 6b 17
40Kiss Me SoftyV3 6b 27
41Victory CrackHS 4b **520
42Victory GullyS 4a 247
 EMMA'S SLAB  
44Emma's SlabVS 4b 411
45Roger the Cabin BoyV5  
46Technical GeniusV6 6b *19
47Technical Genius (sit start)f7A+ **2
48Technical Genius AreteV4 6a *14
49Emma's DilemmaS 4b **1068
50Emma RoydVS 4c 264
51Emma's TemptationHVD 4c *925
52Emma's DelightHS 4b *598
53DeludedHS 4b 212
54Emma's DelusionS 4a *375
55The ProwVS 4c 584
56ArtificialVD 49
57Oak GullyM 48
58Oak TowerVD 46
59Heather CornerD 32
60Heather Corner SlabM 29
 NELSON'S SLAB  
62The RiggingD 45
63The Bunk LadderHVD 4a 24
64Captain's PrerogativeHS 4b *673
65Captain's BunkHS 4b *607
66Telescope TunnelM 384
67Captain's CrawlM 107
68Porthole ButtressS 4a *249
69Porthole DirectVS 4c **871
70Porthole Super Super DirectVS 5a 17
71Victor HugoE4 6b * 
72Captain BirdseyeVS 4c 123
73Blind EyeS 4b *198
74The Proprioceptive Octetnone 16
75Admiral's Flushed HeadD 6
76Dead EyeHVS 6a 24
77Nelson's SlabHS 5a **538
78Nelson's Slab Indirect StartHS 4b 27
79Nelson's Slab Direct StartV3 6a 10
80Half NelsonVS 5a *221
81Left Ladder ChimneyVD 146
82SplicedS 4a 13
83Right Ladder ChimneyHVD 4a 107
 SAIL BUTTRESS  
85Midshipman / Plain SailingE2 6a ***68
86Nor'-easterHVS 5a 15
87Cold CompassE2 6b *1
88The KrakenE6 6c ***2
89Sail ButtressHS 4b **1404
90Roger the Cabin BoyVS 4c *89
91RatlineHVS 5b ***391
92Amazing GraceE2 6a *3
93Sail ChimneyS 4a ***831
94TopsailVS 4c ***1902
95SpinnakerVS 5a 17
96Monument Chimney CrackVD *331
97Monument ChimneyD **542
 ORPHEUS WALL  
99Pillar WallS 4a 128
100The BowS 4a 199
101BuggerV1 5b 13
102Orpheus WallHVS 5c **366
103UnderworldV2 6a 13
104PeachesE4 6b ***16
105Peaches StartV3 6a 9
106CreamV5 6b 3
107PixieV1 5c 2
108Pixie (sit start)V5 6b 1
109Monument GullyVD **217
110Book SnifferE6 6b 1
111Monument Gully ButtressHVS 5b 257
112The KeelHVS 5b 114
113Naughty NauticalsE2 6b 10
114The BoomHVS 5a *2
 THE THREE SHIPS  
 VICTORY  
117EuryalusV0- 5a 134
118V for VictoryV0- 4a 180
119Prow LeftV0- 4b 171
120Prow RightV0- 4c 167
121Victor's LedgeVB 80
122Prow Right DynoV4 6b *8
123OrionV0 5b 86
124NeptuneV0- 4b 103
125The Victory TraverseV0- 4a 46
 DEFIANCE  
127FinisterreV0- 4c 141
128St VincentV0- 4c 146
129CalviV0 5a 117
130AboukirV0- 4c 129
131TenerifeV0- 4c 174
132Tenerife Right-HandV0 5b 72
133The Defiance TraverseV1 5a 39
 ROYAL SOVERIN  
135RoyalV0- 5a 122
136BilgeV0- 4b 112
137BuccaneerV0- 4c 84
138Buccaneer LeftV0- 46
139Press GangV1 5b 58
140Mini roofV2 6a *11
141OrlopV0 5b 94
142The Royal Soverin TraverseVB 35
 THE PROMENADE  
144Cutting CornersHVD 4a 3
145The PromenadeD **919
146Promenade DirectHVD 4a *614
147PromareteV3 6a 18
148The ChainS 4a *579
149Gritstone MegamixV5 6b *10
150HMS DaringV8 6c ***2
151HMS Daring Right HandV8+ 6c  
152Thing on a SpringV4 6b 39
153Hollybush Gully (Birchen)VD 4b *272
154Anchor TraverseHS 4b *155
155Floating AnarchyHVS 5a 36
156Powder Monkey ParadeS 4b ***1214
157Oarsman Aretef6B+ *5
158OarsmanHVS 6b 14
159'Oar 'OuseV6 6c 1
 Climb nameGradex
160HornblowerE1 6b *58
161Obstructive PensionerV6 6c *4
162Jumpers for TrousersV10 7a  
163HangoverHVS 5b 58
164Admiral's ProgressD *369
165Polaris ExitD *181
 TRAFALGAR WALL  
167Bulbous BowHVS 5b 151
168HammockVS 5b 133
169Camperdown CrawlHS 4c ***1420
170Camperdown Crawl Right Hand VariantVS 5c 30
171Barnacle BulgeHS 4c *738
172Trafalgar CrackVD 4a **1863
173Trafalgar WallS 4b ***1724
174The Defiance VariationV0 5b 11
175Defiance CrackVD 4a 17
176The Long PromenadeVS 4b **35
 STOKER'S WALL  
178Bell Bottom AreteS 4a 217
179Sailor's CrackS 4b 215
180Sailor's ProblemVD 519
181Whatknot?S 4b 238
182Reef KnotS 4b *558
183Sheet Bend (aka Sheep Bend)S 4b 237
184Nautical CrackVD *782
185Heave HoS 4a 256
186Yo-Ho CrackVD *1117
187Rum WallVD 590
188Rum BreakVD 87
189Stoker's BreakVD 661
190Stoker's HoleHS 4a *787
191StokedS 4a 855
192Stoker's WallD *813
193Stoker's Wall TraverseVD 3c 22
194Stoker's Wall FlakeV0- 4a 23
195Crack right of Stoker's WallM 2c 26
196Chasing the DragonV9 7a  
 COPENHAGEN WALL  
198ScandiwallV0- 4b 2
199Copenhagen Wall TraverseS 4a 20
200Copenhagen Corner Left-Hand VariantVD 23
201Copenhagen CornerS 4b 327
202ScandiareteVS 5c *282
203Dane's DelightHS 5b 480
204Dane's DisgustHS 5b 287
205Carlsberg ExportV3 6a 16
206Copenhagen WallVS 5a *382
207The MermaidV9 7a 1
208MP3V8 6b 24
209Wonderful CopenhagenVS 5a *274
210Mast Gully RidgeVD *383
211Mast GullyM 202
 THE FO'C'SLE  
213Mast Gully WallVD 4b 109
214Mast Gully CrackHS 4b *168
215Mast Gully ButtressVS 5a **159
216Fo'c'sle WallVS 4c *299
217Fo'c'sle CrackS 4b **529
218Fo'c'sle ChimneyVD *212
219Fo'c'sle AreteVS 5b *61
220Fo'c'sle Arete (Direct Start)V1 5c 2
221BroadsideE2 6a 22
222LowsideV5 6b 4
223The BuccaneerV6 6b 1
224The BrigandV11 7a 2
225Cave GullyVD *79
 TAR'S WALL  
227Ta Very MuchHS 4c 84
228Tar's AreteVD 4a *310
229Ta Ta For NowHS 5a 217
230Tar's CrackVD *375
231Tar's TeeterVS 4c *10
232Tar's WallHVD 4b 379
233SodomyV4 6a 16
234Tar's Traverse Left-Hand StartS 4c 24
235Tar's TraverseD 248
236Tar's ClimbM 139
237Tar's CornerD 159
238Tar's GullyM 293
239Pig HeadS 4c 216
240PigtailS 4a 255
241WavedanceHS 5b 99
242Prow WallM 192
243Prow GullyM 2c 22
244Prow Gully Prow Left-Hand VariationV0- 4c 1
245Prow Gully ProwHD 3a 19
 BARBETTE BUTTRESS  
247Barbette AreteV0- 4b 20
248Barbette CrackHS 4b 179
249Barbette WallS 4a 125
250Barbette ButtressS 4b *322
251Cannonball CrackS 3c 79
252Cannonball WallVD 332
253Cannonball Wall DirectVS 5a 49
254Gunner's GangwayD 235
255Lieutenant's LadderD 139
256Men UnitedV1 5b 18
257Isle of MenV2 5c *15
 GUNNER'S BUTTRESS  
259Midge's ManoeuvreE2 6a 6
260Middy's ManoeuvreHS 4c 108
261MidwayE1 6b 28
262Torpedo TubeHVD 4a 180
263FlatabackE1 6a 11
264Das BootVS 4c 16
265Gunner's GrooveD 232
266Seasick Arete left hand variationV0 5b 11
267Seasick AreteHS 5a *331
268Seasick SlabVD 4b 465
269Sick as a ParrotHD 4a 22
 WOODEN LEG WALL  
271Three Sheets to the WindHVD 4b 11
272Cabin FeverHVD 4a 74
273Wooden Leg Wall - Left CornerD 3b 20
274Spotted DickV3 6a  
275Moby DickS 4a 140
276Old CodgerVS 4c *66
277Bold CodgerV3 6a 1
278Wooden Leg WallHVS 5c *44
279Owd GadgeeE1 6b 3
280Young GadflyHS 4b 11
281Wooden Leg Wall - Right CornerHD 3c 17
282Stoker's CrackS 4b 81
283Knick KnackE1 5b 26
284Stoker's SaunterVD 97
285Easy CornerM 32
286Matelot's MeanderS 4a *105
 KISMET BUTTRESS  
288Yard ArmHS 4c 25
289ImplosionHVS 5c 31
290ExplosionVS 5b *157
291Blast Hole WallVS 5b 109
292Cor Limey!HD 3a 17
293Powder KegHVD 4a 31
294RefuseV3 6a 3
295FuseVS 5a *191
296Gun-Cotton GrooveVD *374
297Cook's RibE1 5c *98
298Horatio's DirectVS 4c *125
299Horatio's HorrorHS 4a **380
300Heavy CruiserE1 6a  
301Nelson's NemesisVS 4b ***557
302Tom's AreteE5 6b  
303Victory ViceVD *114
304For Queen and CountryVS 4b 37
305DeviceVS 4c *132
306Gunpowder Gully AreteHVD 132
307Gunpowder GullyD *94
308Sea Dog SlabVD 110
309Sea Dog Slab DirectV0- 4b 6
310Sea Dog Slab IndirectV0- 5a 5
311Sailor's chuteHVD 4a 49
312They Think It's All OverVS 4b 5
313It Is NowVD 3c 12
314It Is Now DirectVD 4b 9
315The Chain Direct StartV0 5a 3
316Ta Ta Ta For Now HS 5a 1
317The Admiral's Head *D 3b 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Lukem6

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There is a pay car park and a field across the road. pick which you prefer. wet days I'd say the 4 will be worth it.
Lukem6 - 27/Oct/13

Surprised yesterday to have to pay for the Car Park. 2.50 up to 4 hours, 4 all day. Free to NT or RSPB members.
D Berry - 27/Oct/13

The is a problem on the back of the royal sovereign boulder that starts lying down under the overhang pulls through to a slot from slopers on the lip of the overhang and then on to the top with a tiny mono on the top. Does anyone no the name or grade? Thanks
ceturnock - 09/Sep/13

There's a large block halfway up Gun-cotton Groove (VD) on Kismet Buttress which is quite loose. Avoiding using this probably puts it up a grade. Perhaps no longer a "good beginners' climb".
Howard J - 04/Aug/10

Just a quick update... Took a youth group from my Church there this weekend and had a fantastic time. We climbed to the right of the monument, using "On Peak Rock" as a guide. First of all, there's about 500m of delicious rock to the right of the monument, which are not covered by the guidebook :( We camped at the Eric Byne memorial site by the Robin Hood Inn. It's run by the really old couple again, after being run by the Peak authority for a while. It's 2.50 pppn, with toilets and fresh water. They now have a bin area which is new since I was last there (2003). Still no campfires, but where can you these days :( Still a superb crag, unbeatable for groups, families, beginners and first-time outdoor lead climbers.
rich in wales - 20/Oct/07

Victory Vice the V Diff on the Kismet Buttress has got bats living in it just a warning!!!
David Hollyer - 30/May/06

I love this crag - Gives us VS climbers the chance for great low grade soloing. Lots of lovely classically grit moves on a small scale.
Reds - 08/Mar/04

Don\'t miss the great bouldering opportunities to be had on the three large boulders on top of the crag. Each boulder has its name carved into the rock and is named after the Flagships of Nelson\'s fleet at the battle of Trafalgar.
Michael Hunt - 20/Jan/02