Birchen Edge

Climbs 299 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A fine, natural edge in an elevated position overlooking the Derwent Valley. Excellent, quick-drying clean grit (up to 15m), climbable at all times of the year (occasionally sandy after rain). Large number of low grade routes make this a beginner's (and unfortunately Outdoor Pursuit Group's) favourite spot. Often busy but loads to choose from. Don't miss the classic VSs, The Crow's Nest, Top Sail, Sail Buttress, Trafalgar Wall and Nelson's Nemesis.

Approach notes
From 100m above the Eric Byne car park at SK 279721 on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619) in <15 min.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Eastern Grit (2015), Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Eastern Grit (2006) (2006), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 FAR LEFT  
2PortsideHS 4b 12
3The BrinyE1 5b 4
4StarboardsideHS 4b 14
5Bosun's NoseS 4c 137
6Bosun's CrackVD 242
7Bosun's WallHVD 4a 198
8The GangplankM *799
 POOP DECK  
10Poop Crackf3 64
11Handy CrackD 549
12Handy WallV0- 4b *31
13Visitors OnlyHS 4a *433
14Visitors WallV1 5b 15
15Howships LacunaeV5 *3
16PDCLWV1 5b *2
17All AboardD 423
18Saltheart FoamfollowerHVS 5c *75
19Poop Deck CrackS 4a 292
20The PirateE2 6b 3
 THE CROW'S NEST  
22Disabled SeamanV3 6a 25
23Cabin BoyV5 6b 51
24The CabinV4 6b 65
25LogV1 5c 30
26Sling Your HammockV1 ***19
27Dan's Aretef6C *17
28Crow's Feetf5+ *10
29Land Ho!HS 4c *156
30The Crow's NestVS 4c **825
31Scrim Netf6A *75
32Scrim Net StartV3 6a *31
33Lookout AreteS 4a *213
34The FunnelD *481
35Kiss Me HardyHVD 4a *527
36The DancerE1 5c 12
37Kiss Me Arse (Sit Start)V5 6b 37
38Kiss Me Arse (Standing Start)f6C *32
39Monocled Monof6C 20
40Kiss Me Softyf6B *30
41Victory CrackHS 4b *609
42Victory GullyS 4a *282
 EMMA'S SLAB  
44Emma's SlabVS 4b *489
45Roger the Cabin Boyf6C *2
46Technical Geniusf7A *21
47Technical Genius (sit start)f7A+ **3
48Technical Genius AreteV4 6a *15
49Emma's DilemmaS 4a *1217
50Emma RoydVS 4c *314
51Emma's TemptationHVD 4c *1036
52Emma's DelightHS 4b *691
53DeludedVS 4c *241
54Emma's DelusionS 4a *419
55The ProwVS 4c *677
56ArtificialVD 54
57Oak GullyM 51
58Oak TowerVD 48
59Heather CornerD 34
60Heather Corner SlabM 34
 NELSON'S SLAB  
62The RiggingD 50
63The Bunk LadderS 4a 28
64Captain's PrerogativeHS 4b *752
65Captain's BunkHS 4b *681
66Telescope TunnelM **433
67Captain's CrawlM 120
68Porthole ButtressS 4a *274
69Porthole DirectVS 4c **988
70Porthole Super Super DirectVS 5a 19
71Victor HugoE4 6b *1
72Captain BirdseyeVS 4c 144
73Blind EyeS 4b *218
74The Proprioceptive Octetnone 20
75Admiral's Flushed HeadD 8
76Dead EyeHVS 6a 28
77Nelson's SlabHS 5a *602
78Nelson's Slab Indirect StartHS 4b 27
79Nelson's Slab Direct Startf6A *10
80Half NelsonVS 5a *245
81Left Ladder ChimneyVD 164
82SplicedS 4a 14
83Right Ladder ChimneyHVD 4a 121
 SAIL BUTTRESS  
85Midshipman / Plain SailingE2 6a ***74
86Nor'-easterHVS 5a 20
87Cold CompassE2 6b *1
88The KrakenE6 6c ***2
89Sail ButtressHS 4b **1583
90Roger the Cabin BoyVS 4c *101
91RatlineHVS 5b **448
92Amazing GraceE2 6a 3
93Sail ChimneyS 4a **921
94TopsailVS 4c **2159
95Marie's Gone to CanadaE1 5c 1
96SpinnakerVS 5a 20
97Monument Chimney CrackVD *381
98Monument ChimneyD *599
 ORPHEUS WALL  
100Pillar WallS 4a 140
101The BowS 4a *220
102BuggerV1 5b 15
103Orpheus WallHVS 5c **419
104UnderworldV2 6a 16
105PeachesE4 6b ***21
106Peaches StartV3 6a 14
107CreamV5 6b 5
108PixieV1 5c 3
109Pixie (sit start)V5 6b 2
110Monument GullyVD *240
111Book SnifferE6 6b 1
112Monument Gully ButtressHVS 5b *287
113The KeelHVS 5b *124
114Naughty NauticalsE2 6b 11
115The BoomHVS 5a *2
 THE THREE SHIPS  
 VICTORY  
118EuryalusV0- 5a 170
119V for VictoryV0- 4a 224
120Prow LeftV0- 4b 210
121Prow RightV0- 4c 203
122Victor's LedgeVB 114
123Prow Right DynoV4 6b *19
124OrionV0 5b 112
125NeptuneV0- 4b 130
126The Victory TraverseV0- 4a 65
 DEFIANCE  
128FinisterreV0- 4c 177
129St VincentV0- 4c 184
130CalviV0 5a 150
131AboukirV0- 4c 168
132TenerifeV0- 4c 216
133Tenerife Right-HandV0 5b 93
134The Defiance TraverseV1 5a 52
 ROYAL SOVERIN  
136RoyalV0- 5a 158
137BilgeV0- 4b 146
138BuccaneerV0- 4c 110
139Buccaneer LeftV0- 55
140Press GangV1 5b 75
141Mini roofV2 6a *21
142OrlopV0 5b 115
143The Royal Soverin TraverseVB 46
 THE PROMENADE TO TRAFALGAR WALL  
145Cutting CornersS 4a 4
146The PromenadeD **1033
147Promenade DirectHVD 4a *699
148Promaretef6A *32
149The ChainS 4a *648
150Gritstone Megamixf7A *11
151HMS Daringf7B+ *2
152HMS Daring Right HandV8+ 6c  
153Thing on a Springf7A *52
154Hollybush Gully (Birchen)VD 4b *314
155Anchor TraverseHS 4b *169
156Floating AnarchyHVS 5a 43
157Powder Monkey ParadeS 4b **1343
158Oarsman Aretef6B+ *7
159Oarsmanf6B+ 16
160'Oar 'Ousef7A 2
161Hornblowerf6C **64
162Obstructive Pensionerf7A+ *5
163Jumpers for Trousersf7C+ * 
164HangoverHVS 5b 63
165Admiral's ProgressD *423
166Polaris ExitD *203
 TRAFALGAR WALL  
168Bulbous Bowf5+ 161
169HammockVS 5b *153
170Camperdown CrawlHS 4c **1581
171Camperdown Crawl Right Hand VariantVS 5c 34
172Barnacle BulgeHS 4c *834
173Trafalgar CrackVD 4a *2101
174Trafalgar WallS 4b **1913
175The Defiance VariationV0 5b 13
176Defiance CrackVD 4a 19
177The Long PromenadeVS 4b **40
 STOKER'S WALL  
179Bell Bottom AreteS 4a 241
180Sailor's CrackS 4b *236
181Sailor's ProblemVD 572
182Whatknot?S 4b *278
183Reef KnotS 4b *607
184Sheet Bend (aka Sheep Bend)S 4b 267
185Nautical CrackVD *877
186Heave HoS 4a 289
187Yo-Ho CrackVD *1268
188Rum WallVD 665
189Rum BreakVD 98
190Stoker's BreakVD 738
191Stoker's HoleHS 4a *881
192StokedS 4a *945
193Stoker's WallD *906
194Stoker's Wall TraverseVD 3c 29
195Stoker's Wall FlakeV0- 4a 29
196Crack right of Stoker's WallM 2c 32
197Chasing the DragonV9 7a  
 COPENHAGEN WALL  
199Scandiwallf3+ 11
200Copenhagen Wall TraverseS 4a 23
201Copenhagen Corner Left-Hand VariantVD 24
202Copenhagen Cornerf3+ 356
203Scandiaretef5+ *311
204Dane's Delightf5 *525
205Dane's Disgustf5 *309
206Carlsberg Exportf6B 18
207Copenhagen WallVS 5a *411
208Mermaidf7C *1
209MP3V8 6b 34
210Wonderful Copenhagenf4+ *292
211Mast Gully RidgeVD *423
212Mast GullyM 223
 THE FO'C'SLE  
214Mast Gully WallVD 4b 117
215Mast Gully CrackHS 4b *187
216Mast Gully ButtressVS 5a *176
217Fo'c'sle WallVS 4c *325
218Fo'c'sle CrackS 4b *602
219Fo'c'sle ChimneyVD *238
220Fo'c'sle AreteVS 5b *66
221Fo'c'sle Arete (Direct Start)V1 5c 3
222Broadsidef6A+ *26
223LowsideV5 6b 5
224The Buccaneerf7A *1
225The Brigandf7C+ *2
226Cave GullyVD *86
 TAR'S WALL  
228Ta Very MuchHS 4c 92
229Tar's AreteVD 4a *341
230Ta Ta For NowHS 5a 236
231Tar's CrackVD *421
232Tar's TeeterVS 4c *11
233Tar's WallHVD 4b 418
234Sodomyf6C **21
235Tar's Traverse Left-Hand StartS 4c 26
236Tar's TraverseD 274
237Tar's ClimbM 160
238Tar's CornerM 169
239Tar's GullyD 337
240Pig HeadS 4c 238
241PigtailS 4a 279
242Wavedancef4+ 108
243Prow WallM 216
244Prow GullyM 26
245Prow Gully Prow Left-Hand VariationV0- 4c 3
246Prow Gully ProwHD 3a 24
 BARBETTE BUTTRESS  
248Barbette AreteS 4b 27
249Barbette CrackHS 4b *205
250Barbette WallS 4a 138
251Barbette ButtressS 4b *358
252Cannonball CrackS 3c 90
253Cannonball WallVD *373
254Cannonball Wall DirectVS 5a 54
255Gunner's GangwayD 268
256Lieutenant's LadderD 158
257Men UnitedV1 5b 22
258Isle of MenV2 5c *17
 SEASICK SLAB  
260Midge's ManoeuvreE2 6a 10
261Middy's ManoeuvreHS 4c *123
262MidwayE1 6b 30
263Torpedo TubeHVD 4a *199
264FlatabackE1 6a 13
265Das BootVS 5a 19
266Gunner's GrooveD 258
267Seasick Arete left hand variationV0 5b 15
268Seasick Aretef4+ *367
269Seasick Slabf3+ 514
270Sick as a ParrotHD 4a 27
 WOODEN LEG WALL  
272Three Sheets to the WindHVD 4b 15
273Cabin FeverHVD 4a 83
274Wooden Leg Wall - Left CornerD 3b 22
275Spotted DickV3 6a 1
276Moby DickS 4a 159
277Old CodgerVS 4c *74
278Bold CodgerE2 6a 4
279Wooden Leg WallHVS 5c *53
280Owd GadgeeE2 6a 4
281Young GadflyHS 4b 13
282Wooden Leg Wall - Right CornerHD 3c 21
283Stoker's CrackS 4b 91
284Knick KnackE1 5b 37
285Stoker's SaunterVD 109
286Easy CornerM 39
287Matelot's MeanderS 4a 121
 KISMET BUTTRESS  
289Yard ArmHS 4c 30
290Implosionf5+ 37
291Explosionf4+ *170
292Blast Hole Wallf5 *120
293Cor Limey!VD 18
294Powder KegS 4a 35
295RefuseV3 6a 5
296FuseVS 5a *211
297Gun-Cotton GrooveVD *415
298Cook's RibE1 5c *120
299Horatio's DirectVS 4c *141
300Horatio's HorrorHS 4a **423
301Heavy CruiserE1 6a  
302Nelson's NemesisVS 4b ***645
303Tom's AreteE5 6b 1
304Victory ViceVD *124
305For Queen and CountryHVS 4c 40
306DeviceHVS 4c 144
307Gunpowder Gully AreteS 3c 145
308Gunpowder GullyD 104
309Sea Dog SlabVD 126
310Sea Dog Slab DirectV0- 4b 10
311Sea Dog Slab IndirectV0- 5a 7
312Sailor's chuteHVD 4a 60
313They Think It's All OverVS 4b 5
314It Is NowVD 3c 13
315It Is Now DirectVD 4b 10
316Ta Ta Ta For NowHS 5a 2
317The Admiral's HeadD 8
318Master and CommanderV5 6b *1
319Cabin Boy Variationf6C *1
320Seasick Stevef6A+ *6
 ROUTES ADDED FROM ROCKFAX BOOK  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Lukem6

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There is a pay car park and a field across the road. pick which you prefer. wet days I'd say the 4 will be worth it.
Lukem6 - 27/Oct/13
Surprised yesterday to have to pay for the Car Park. 2.50 up to 4 hours, 4 all day. Free to NT or RSPB members.
D Berry - 27/Oct/13
The is a problem on the back of the royal sovereign boulder that starts lying down under the overhang pulls through to a slot from slopers on the lip of the overhang and then on to the top with a tiny mono on the top. Does anyone no the name or grade? Thanks
ceturnock - 09/Sep/13
There's a large block halfway up Gun-cotton Groove (VD) on Kismet Buttress which is quite loose. Avoiding using this probably puts it up a grade. Perhaps no longer a "good beginners' climb".
Howard J - 04/Aug/10
Just a quick update... Took a youth group from my Church there this weekend and had a fantastic time. We climbed to the right of the monument, using "On Peak Rock" as a guide. First of all, there's about 500m of delicious rock to the right of the monument, which are not covered by the guidebook :( We camped at the Eric Byne memorial site by the Robin Hood Inn. It's run by the really old couple again, after being run by the Peak authority for a while. It's 2.50 pppn, with toilets and fresh water. They now have a bin area which is new since I was last there (2003). Still no campfires, but where can you these days :( Still a superb crag, unbeatable for groups, families, beginners and first-time outdoor lead climbers.
rich in wales - 20/Oct/07
Victory Vice the V Diff on the Kismet Buttress has got bats living in it just a warning!!!
David Hollyer - 30/May/06
I love this crag - Gives us VS climbers the chance for great low grade soloing. Lots of lovely classically grit moves on a small scale.
Reds - 08/Mar/04
Don\'t miss the great bouldering opportunities to be had on the three large boulders on top of the crag. Each boulder has its name carved into the rock and is named after the Flagships of Nelson\'s fleet at the battle of Trafalgar.
Michael Hunt - 20/Jan/02