Birchen Edge

Climbs 300 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A fine, natural edge in an elevated position overlooking the Derwent Valley. Excellent, quick-drying clean grit (up to 15m), climbable at all times of the year (occasionally sandy after rain). Large number of low grade routes make this a beginner's (and unfortunately Outdoor Pursuit Group's) favourite spot. Often busy but loads to choose from. Don't miss the classic VSs, The Crow's Nest, Top Sail, Sail Buttress, Trafalgar Wall and Nelson's Nemesis.

Approach notes
From 100m above the Eric Byne car park at SK 279721 on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619) in <15 min.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Eastern Grit (2015), Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Eastern Grit (2006) (2006), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2PortsideHS 4b 12
3The BrinyE1 5b 4
4StarboardsideHS 4b 14
5Bosun's NoseS 4c 137
6Bosun's CrackVD 242
7Bosun's WallHVD 4a 198
8The GangplankM *806
10Poop Crackf3 64
11Handy CrackD 552
12Handy WallV0- 4b *31
13Visitors OnlyHS 4a *434
14Visitors WallV1 5b 15
15Howships LacunaeV5 *4
16PDCLWV1 5b *2
17All AboardD 427
18Saltheart FoamfollowerHVS 5c *75
19Poop Deck CrackS 4a 295
20The PirateE2 6b 3
22Disabled SeamanV3 6a 27
23Cabin BoyV5 6b 53
24The CabinV4 6b 68
25LogV1 5c 30
26Sling Your HammockV1 ***20
27Dan's Aretef6C *17
28Crow's Feetf5+ *10
29Land Ho!HS 4c *158
30The Crow's NestVS 4c **830
31Scrim Netf6A *77
32Scrim Net StartV3 6a *31
33Lookout AreteS 4a *214
34The FunnelD *484
35Kiss Me HardyHVD 4a *532
36The DancerE1 5c 12
37Kiss Me Arse (Sit Start)V5 6b 40
38Kiss Me Arse (Standing Start)f6C *32
39Monocled Monof6C 20
40Kiss Me Softyf6B *30
41Victory CrackHS 4b *613
42Victory GullyS 4a *283
44Emma's SlabVS 4b *492
45Roger the Cabin Boyf6C *2
46Technical Geniusf7A *21
47Technical Genius (sit start)f7A+ **3
48Technical Genius AreteV4 6a *15
49Emma's DilemmaS 4a *1222
50Emma RoydVS 4c *318
51Emma's TemptationHVD 4c *1051
52Emma's DelightHS 4b *693
53DeludedVS 4c *243
54Emma's DelusionS 4a *422
55The ProwVS 4c *679
56ArtificialVD 54
57Oak GullyM 51
58Oak TowerVD 48
59Heather CornerD 35
60Heather Corner SlabM 34
62The RiggingD 50
63The Bunk LadderS 4a 28
64Captain's PrerogativeHS 4b *759
65Captain's BunkHS 4b *685
66Telescope TunnelM **435
67Captain's CrawlM 121
68Porthole ButtressS 4a *277
69Porthole DirectVS 4c **996
70Porthole Super Super DirectVS 5a 19
71Victor HugoE4 6b *1
72Captain BirdseyeVS 4c 145
73Blind EyeS 4b *221
74The Proprioceptive Octetnone 20
75Admiral's Flushed HeadD 10
76Dead EyeHVS 6a 28
77Nelson's SlabHS 5a *606
78Nelson's Slab Indirect StartHS 4b 28
79Nelson's Slab Direct Startf6A *10
80Half NelsonVS 5a *247
81Left Ladder ChimneyVD 165
82SplicedS 4a 14
83Right Ladder ChimneyHVD 4a 121
85Midshipman / Plain SailingE2 6a ***75
86Nor'-easterHVS 5a 20
87Cold CompassE2 6b *1
88The KrakenE6 6c ***2
89Sail ButtressHS 4b **1603
90Roger the Cabin BoyVS 4c *103
91RatlineHVS 5b **450
92Amazing GraceE2 6a 3
93Sail ChimneyS 4a **925
94TopsailVS 4c **2179
95Marie's Gone to CanadaE1 5c 1
96SpinnakerVS 5a 20
97Monument Chimney CrackVD *386
98Monument ChimneyD *604
100Pillar WallS 4a 140
101The BowS 4a *226
102BuggerV1 5b 15
103Orpheus WallHVS 5c **424
104UnderworldV2 6a 16
105PeachesE4 6b ***22
106Peaches StartV3 6a 14
107CreamV5 6b 5
108PixieV1 5c 3
109Pixie (sit start)V5 6b 2
110Monument GullyVD *247
111Book SnifferE6 6b 1
112Monument Gully ButtressHVS 5b *293
113The KeelHVS 5b *125
114Naughty NauticalsE2 6b 11
115The BoomHVS 5a *2
118EuryalusV0- 5a 171
119V for VictoryV0- 4a 230
120Prow LeftV0- 4b 214
121Prow RightV0- 4c 206
122Victor's LedgeVB 117
123Prow Right DynoV4 6b *19
124OrionV0 5b 113
125NeptuneV0- 4b 132
126The Victory TraverseV0- 4a 69
128FinisterreV0- 4c 179
129St VincentV0- 4c 186
130CalviV0 5a 151
131AboukirV0- 4c 170
132TenerifeV0- 4c 220
133Tenerife Right-HandV0 5b 95
134The Defiance TraverseV1 5a 55
136RoyalV0- 5a 162
137BilgeV0- 4b 148
138BuccaneerV0- 4c 111
139Buccaneer LeftV0- 55
140Press GangV1 5b 77
141Mini roofV2 6a *22
142OrlopV0 5b 117
143The Royal Soverin TraverseVB 48
145Cutting CornersS 4a 4
146The PromenadeD **1047
147Promenade DirectHVD 4a *715
148Promaretef6A *32
149The ChainS 4a *654
150Gritstone Megamixf7A *11
151HMS Daringf7B+ *2
152HMS Daring Right HandV8+ 6c  
153Thing on a Springf7A *53
154Hollybush Gully (Birchen)VD 4b *317
155Anchor TraverseHS 4b *171
156Floating AnarchyHVS 5a 44
157Powder Monkey ParadeS 4b **1362
158Oarsman Aretef6B+ *7
159Oarsmanf6B+ 16
160'Oar 'Ousef7A 2
161Hornblowerf6C **65
162Obstructive Pensionerf7A+ *5
163Jumpers for Trousersf7C+ * 
164HangoverHVS 5b 63
165Admiral's ProgressD *426
166Polaris ExitD *205
168Bulbous Bowf5+ 163
169HammockVS 5b *157
170Camperdown CrawlHS 4c **1595
171Camperdown Crawl Right Hand VariantVS 5c 34
172Barnacle BulgeHS 4c *848
173Trafalgar CrackVD 4a *2127
174Trafalgar WallS 4b **1935
175The Defiance VariationV0 5b 13
176Defiance CrackVD 4a 20
177The Long PromenadeVS 4b **42
179Bell Bottom AreteS 4a 242
180Sailor's CrackS 4b *237
181Sailor's ProblemVD 576
182Whatknot?S 4b *280
183Reef KnotS 4b *610
184Sheet Bend (aka Sheep Bend)S 4b 270
185Nautical CrackVD *889
186Heave HoS 4a 292
187Yo-Ho CrackVD *1285
188Rum WallVD 673
189Rum BreakVD 100
190Stoker's BreakVD 744
191Stoker's HoleHS 4a *891
192StokedS 4a *960
193Stoker's WallD *918
194Stoker's Wall TraverseVD 3c 29
195Stoker's Wall FlakeV0- 4a 29
196Crack right of Stoker's WallM 2c 33
197Chasing the DragonV9 7a  
199Scandiwallf3+ 12
200Copenhagen Wall TraverseS 4a 23
201Copenhagen Corner Left-Hand VariantVD 24
202Copenhagen Cornerf3+ 358
203Scandiaretef5+ *313
204Dane's Delightf5 *527
205Dane's Disgustf5 *309
206Carlsberg Exportf6B 18
207Copenhagen WallVS 5a *416
208Mermaidf7C *1
209MP3V8 6b 35
210Wonderful Copenhagenf4+ *292
211Mast Gully RidgeVD *428
212Mast GullyM 224
214Mast Gully WallVD 4b 117
215Mast Gully CrackHS 4b *189
216Mast Gully ButtressVS 5a *177
217Fo'c'sle WallVS 4c *328
218Fo'c'sle CrackS 4b *608
219Fo'c'sle ChimneyVD *239
220Fo'c'sle AreteVS 5b *66
221Fo'c'sle Arete (Direct Start)V1 5c 3
222Broadsidef6A+ *26
223LowsideV5 6b 5
224The Buccaneerf7A *1
225The Brigandf7C+ *2
226Cave GullyVD *87
228Ta Very MuchHS 4c 92
229Tar's AreteVD 4a *348
230Ta Ta For NowHS 5a 237
231Tar's CrackVD *421
232Tar's TeeterVS 4c *11
233Tar's WallHVD 4b 418
234Sodomyf6C **21
235Tar's Traverse Left-Hand StartS 4c 26
236Tar's TraverseD 274
237Tar's ClimbM 160
238Tar's CornerM 169
239Tar's GullyD 337
240Pig HeadS 4c 238
241PigtailS 4a 279
242Wavedancef4+ 109
243Prow WallM 217
244Prow GullyM 26
245Prow Gully Prow Left-Hand VariationV0- 4c 3
246Prow Gully ProwHD 3a 24
248Barbette AreteS 4b 27
249Barbette CrackHS 4b *205
250Barbette WallS 4a 138
251Barbette ButtressS 4b *359
252Cannonball CrackS 3c 91
253Cannonball WallVD *374
254Cannonball Wall DirectVS 5a 54
255Gunner's GangwayD 268
256Lieutenant's LadderD 158
257Men UnitedV1 5b 22
258Isle of MenV2 5c *17
260Midge's ManoeuvreE2 6a 10
261Middy's ManoeuvreHS 4c *124
262MidwayE1 6b 31
263Torpedo TubeHVD 4a *201
264FlatabackE1 6a 13
265Das BootVS 5a 19
266Gunner's GrooveD 259
267Seasick Arete left hand variationV0 5b 15
268Seasick Aretef4+ *368
269Seasick Slabf3+ 517
270Sick as a ParrotHD 4a 27
272Three Sheets to the WindHVD 4b 15
273Cabin FeverHVD 4a 84
274Wooden Leg Wall - Left CornerD 3b 22
275Spotted DickV3 6a 1
276Moby DickS 4a 161
277Old CodgerVS 4c *74
278Bold CodgerE2 6a 4
279Wooden Leg WallHVS 5c *53
280Owd GadgeeE2 6a 4
281Young GadflyHS 4b 13
282Wooden Leg Wall - Right CornerHD 3c 21
283Stoker's CrackS 4b 93
284Knick KnackE1 5b 37
285Stoker's SaunterVD 112
286Easy CornerM 39
287Matelot's MeanderS 4a 122
289Yard ArmHS 4c 30
290Implosionf5+ 37
291Explosionf4+ *170
292Blast Hole Wallf5 *120
293Cor Limey!VD 19
294Powder KegS 4a 35
295RefuseV3 6a 5
296FuseVS 5a *211
297Gun-Cotton GrooveVD *417
298Cook's RibE1 5c *120
299Horatio's DirectVS 4c *142
300Horatio's HorrorHS 4a **427
301Heavy CruiserE1 6a  
302Nelson's NemesisVS 4b ***649
303Tom's AreteE5 6b 1
304Victory ViceVD *127
305For Queen and CountryHVS 4c 40
306DeviceHVS 4c 145
307Gunpowder Gully AreteS 3c 147
308Gunpowder GullyD 106
309Sea Dog SlabVD 127
310Sea Dog Slab DirectV0- 4b 10
311Sea Dog Slab IndirectV0- 5a 7
312Sailor's chuteHVD 4a 61
313They Think It's All OverVS 4b 5
314It Is NowVD 3c 13
315It Is Now DirectVD 4b 10
316Ta Ta Ta For NowHS 5a 2
317The Admiral's HeadD 8
318Master and CommanderV5 6b *1
319Cabin Boy Variationf6C *1
320Seasick Stevef6A+ *6
321Whatnot, Stokers wall *M 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Lukem6

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
my favourite crag.
Stanners - 11/Sep/15
There is a pay car park and a field across the road. pick which you prefer. wet days I'd say the 4 will be worth it.
Lukem6 - 27/Oct/13
Surprised yesterday to have to pay for the Car Park. 2.50 up to 4 hours, 4 all day. Free to NT or RSPB members.
D Berry - 27/Oct/13
The is a problem on the back of the royal sovereign boulder that starts lying down under the overhang pulls through to a slot from slopers on the lip of the overhang and then on to the top with a tiny mono on the top. Does anyone no the name or grade? Thanks
ceturnock - 09/Sep/13
There's a large block halfway up Gun-cotton Groove (VD) on Kismet Buttress which is quite loose. Avoiding using this probably puts it up a grade. Perhaps no longer a "good beginners' climb".
Howard J - 04/Aug/10
Just a quick update... Took a youth group from my Church there this weekend and had a fantastic time. We climbed to the right of the monument, using "On Peak Rock" as a guide. First of all, there's about 500m of delicious rock to the right of the monument, which are not covered by the guidebook :( We camped at the Eric Byne memorial site by the Robin Hood Inn. It's run by the really old couple again, after being run by the Peak authority for a while. It's 2.50 pppn, with toilets and fresh water. They now have a bin area which is new since I was last there (2003). Still no campfires, but where can you these days :( Still a superb crag, unbeatable for groups, families, beginners and first-time outdoor lead climbers.
rich in wales - 20/Oct/07
Victory Vice the V Diff on the Kismet Buttress has got bats living in it just a warning!!!
David Hollyer - 30/May/06
I love this crag - Gives us VS climbers the chance for great low grade soloing. Lots of lovely classically grit moves on a small scale.
Reds - 08/Mar/04
Don\'t miss the great bouldering opportunities to be had on the three large boulders on top of the crag. Each boulder has its name carved into the rock and is named after the Flagships of Nelson\'s fleet at the battle of Trafalgar.
Michael Hunt - 20/Jan/02