View larger mapGrid Ref SK 278727 (OS Landranger #119)

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These details were last updated on 19/Jul/2013

Birchen Edge

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 297 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A fine, natural edge in an elevated position overlooking the Derwent Valley. Excellent, quick-drying clean grit (up to 15m), climbable at all times of the year (occasionally sandy after rain). Large number of low grade routes make this a beginner's (and unfortunately Outdoor Pursuit Group's) favourite spot. Often busy but loads to choose from. Don't miss the classic VSs, The Crow's Nest, Top Sail, Sail Buttress, Trafalgar Wall and Nelson's Nemesis.

Access notes
From 100m above the Eric Byne car park at SK 279721 on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619) in <15 min.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

3.6mm rain
Cloudy
13 °C
13 kph

0.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
15 °C
18 kph

1.9mm rain
Cloudy
13 °C
23 kph

0.2mm rain
Sun
13 °C
18 kph

0.8mm rain
Mainly cloudy
16 °C
13 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Peak Gritstone East (2001), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 FAR LEFT  
2PortsideHS 4b 9
3The BrinyE1 5b 3
4StarboardsideHS 4b 11
5Bosun's NoseS 4c 116
6Bosun's CrackVD 201
7Bosun's WallS 4a 165
8The GangplankM *703
 POOP DECK  
10Poop CrackVB 4a 52
11Handy CrackD 489
12Handy WallV0- 4b *26
13Visitors OnlyHS 4a *393
14Visitors WallV1 5b 13
15Howships LacunaeV5 *1
16PDCLWV1 5b * 
17All AboardD 391
18Saltheart FoamfollowerHVS 5b 70
19Poop Deck CrackS 4a *264
20The PirateV6 1
 THE CROW'S NEST  
22Disabled SeamanV3 6a 22
23Cabin BoyV5 6b 42
24The CabinV4 6b 59
25LogV1 5c 24
26Sling Your HammockV1 ***15
27Dan's AreteV6 6b 10
28Crow's FeetV2 5c 7
29Land Ho!S 4c 139
30The Crow's NestVS 4c **731
31Scrim NetE1 6a 67
32Scrim Net StartV3 6a *29
33Lookout AreteS 4a *191
34The FunnelHD **440
35Kiss Me HardyS *474
36The DancerE1 5c 11
37Kiss Me Arse (Sit Start)V5 6b 32
38Kiss Me Arse (Standing Start)V3 6b 27
39Monocled MonoV5 6b 17
40Kiss Me SoftyV3 6b 27
41Victory CrackHS 4b **529
42Victory GullyS 4a 248
 EMMA'S SLAB  
44Emma's SlabVS 4b 415
45Roger the Cabin BoyV5  
46Technical GeniusV6 6b *19
47Technical Genius (sit start)f7A+ **2
48Technical Genius AreteV4 6a *14
49Emma's DilemmaS 4b **1083
50Emma RoydVS 4c 267
51Emma's TemptationHVD 4c *929
52Emma's DelightHS 4b *606
53DeludedHS 4b 214
54Emma's DelusionS 4a *378
55The ProwVS 4c 588
56ArtificialVD 49
57Oak GullyM 48
58Oak TowerVD 46
59Heather CornerD 32
60Heather Corner SlabM 29
 NELSON'S SLAB  
62The RiggingD 45
63The Bunk LadderHVD 4a 24
64Captain's PrerogativeHS 4b *676
65Captain's BunkHS 4b *608
66Telescope TunnelM 388
67Captain's CrawlM 107
68Porthole ButtressS 4a *253
69Porthole DirectVS 4c **872
70Porthole Super Super DirectVS 5a 17
71Victor HugoE4 6b * 
72Captain BirdseyeVS 4c 124
73Blind EyeS 4b *201
74The Proprioceptive Octetnone 16
75Admiral's Flushed HeadD 6
76Dead EyeHVS 6a 23
77Nelson's SlabHS 5a **540
78Nelson's Slab Indirect StartHS 4b 27
79Nelson's Slab Direct StartV3 6a 10
80Half NelsonVS 5a *223
81Left Ladder ChimneyVD 148
82SplicedS 4a 13
83Right Ladder ChimneyHVD 4a 108
 SAIL BUTTRESS  
85Midshipman / Plain SailingE2 6a ***68
86Nor'-easterHVS 5a 15
87Cold CompassE2 6b *1
88The KrakenE6 6c ***2
89Sail ButtressHS 4b **1416
90Roger the Cabin BoyVS 4c *89
91RatlineHVS 5b ***396
92Amazing GraceE2 6a *3
93Sail ChimneyS 4a ***838
94TopsailVS 4c ***1914
95SpinnakerVS 5a 17
96Monument Chimney CrackVD *335
97Monument ChimneyD **549
 ORPHEUS WALL  
99Pillar WallS 4a 129
100The BowS 4a 200
101BuggerV1 5b 13
102Orpheus WallHVS 5c **368
103UnderworldV2 6a 13
104PeachesE4 6b ***16
105Peaches StartV3 6a 9
106CreamV5 6b 3
107PixieV1 5c 2
108Pixie (sit start)V5 6b 1
109Monument GullyVD **218
110Book SnifferE6 6b 1
111Monument Gully ButtressHVS 5b 256
112The KeelHVS 5b 113
113Naughty NauticalsE2 6b 10
114The BoomHVS 5a *2
 THE THREE SHIPS  
 VICTORY  
117EuryalusV0- 5a 141
118V for VictoryV0- 4a 187
119Prow LeftV0- 4b 178
120Prow RightV0- 4c 174
121Victor's LedgeVB 89
122Prow Right DynoV4 6b *10
123OrionV0 5b 92
124NeptuneV0- 4b 109
125The Victory TraverseV0- 4a 51
 DEFIANCE  
127FinisterreV0- 4c 149
128St VincentV0- 4c 154
129CalviV0 5a 125
130AboukirV0- 4c 137
131TenerifeV0- 4c 183
132Tenerife Right-HandV0 5b 77
133The Defiance TraverseV1 5a 42
 ROYAL SOVERIN  
135RoyalV0- 5a 130
136BilgeV0- 4b 120
137BuccaneerV0- 4c 92
138Buccaneer LeftV0- 48
139Press GangV1 5b 63
140Mini roofV2 6a *14
141OrlopV0 5b 99
142The Royal Soverin TraverseVB 37
 THE PROMENADE  
144Cutting CornersHVD 4a 3
145The PromenadeD **920
146Promenade DirectHVD 4a *616
147PromareteV3 6a 20
148The ChainS 4a *582
149Gritstone MegamixV5 6b *10
150HMS DaringV8 6c ***2
151HMS Daring Right HandV8+ 6c  
152Thing on a SpringV4 6b 40
153Hollybush Gully (Birchen)VD 4b *274
154Anchor TraverseHS 4b *158
155Floating AnarchyHVS 5a 38
156Powder Monkey ParadeS 4b ***1223
157Oarsman Aretef6B+ *5
158OarsmanHVS 6b 15
159'Oar 'OuseV6 6c 1
 Climb nameGradex
160HornblowerE1 6b *58
161Obstructive PensionerV6 6c *4
162Jumpers for TrousersV10 7a  
163HangoverHVS 5b 58
164Admiral's ProgressD *371
165Polaris ExitD *182
 TRAFALGAR WALL  
167Bulbous BowHVS 5b 150
168HammockVS 5b 134
169Camperdown CrawlHS 4c ***1429
170Camperdown Crawl Right Hand VariantVS 5c 31
171Barnacle BulgeHS 4c *744
172Trafalgar CrackVD 4a **1878
173Trafalgar WallS 4b ***1733
174The Defiance VariationV0 5b 11
175Defiance CrackVD 4a 17
176The Long PromenadeVS 4b **35
 STOKER'S WALL  
178Bell Bottom AreteS 4a 218
179Sailor's CrackS 4b 216
180Sailor's ProblemVD 521
181Whatknot?S 4b 241
182Reef KnotS 4b *561
183Sheet Bend (aka Sheep Bend)S 4b 240
184Nautical CrackVD *793
185Heave HoS 4a 261
186Yo-Ho CrackVD *1130
187Rum WallVD 601
188Rum BreakVD 88
189Stoker's BreakVD 670
190Stoker's HoleHS 4a *796
191StokedS 4a 869
192Stoker's WallD *824
193Stoker's Wall TraverseVD 3c 23
194Stoker's Wall FlakeV0- 4a 24
195Crack right of Stoker's WallM 2c 26
196Chasing the DragonV9 7a  
 COPENHAGEN WALL  
198ScandiwallV0- 4b 3
199Copenhagen Wall TraverseS 4a 20
200Copenhagen Corner Left-Hand VariantVD 23
201Copenhagen CornerS 4b 330
202ScandiareteVS 5c *285
203Dane's DelightHS 5b 488
204Dane's DisgustHS 5b 291
205Carlsberg ExportV3 6a 16
206Copenhagen WallVS 5a *386
207The MermaidV9 7a 1
208MP3V8 6b 24
209Wonderful CopenhagenVS 5a *279
210Mast Gully RidgeVD *386
211Mast GullyM 203
 THE FO'C'SLE  
213Mast Gully WallVD 4b 109
214Mast Gully CrackHS 4b *171
215Mast Gully ButtressVS 5a **159
216Fo'c'sle WallVS 4c *300
217Fo'c'sle CrackS 4b **533
218Fo'c'sle ChimneyVD *216
219Fo'c'sle AreteVS 5b *60
220Fo'c'sle Arete (Direct Start)V1 5c 3
221BroadsideE2 6a 23
222LowsideV5 6b 4
223The BuccaneerV6 6b 1
224The BrigandV11 7a 2
225Cave GullyVD *81
 TAR'S WALL  
227Ta Very MuchHS 4c 85
228Tar's AreteVD 4a *313
229Ta Ta For NowHS 5a 220
230Tar's CrackVD *380
231Tar's TeeterVS 4c *11
232Tar's WallHVD 4b 382
233SodomyV4 6a 17
234Tar's Traverse Left-Hand StartS 4c 25
235Tar's TraverseD 251
236Tar's ClimbM 141
237Tar's CornerD 162
238Tar's GullyM 298
239Pig HeadS 4c 218
240PigtailS 4a 261
241WavedanceHS 5b 100
242Prow WallM 195
243Prow GullyM 2c 23
244Prow Gully Prow Left-Hand VariationV0- 4c 2
245Prow Gully ProwHD 3a 21
 BARBETTE BUTTRESS  
247Barbette AreteV0- 4b 23
248Barbette CrackHS 4b 182
249Barbette WallS 4a 127
250Barbette ButtressS 4b *327
251Cannonball CrackS 3c 80
252Cannonball WallVD 335
253Cannonball Wall DirectVS 5a 51
254Gunner's GangwayD 241
255Lieutenant's LadderD 142
256Men UnitedV1 5b 19
257Isle of MenV2 5c *16
 GUNNER'S BUTTRESS  
259Midge's ManoeuvreE2 6a 6
260Middy's ManoeuvreHS 4c 110
261MidwayE1 6b 29
262Torpedo TubeHVD 4a 181
263FlatabackE1 6a 11
264Das BootVS 4c 18
265Gunner's GrooveD 236
266Seasick Arete left hand variationV0 5b 12
267Seasick AreteHS 5a *333
268Seasick SlabVD 4b 471
269Sick as a ParrotHD 4a 23
 WOODEN LEG WALL  
271Three Sheets to the WindHVD 4b 12
272Cabin FeverHVD 4a 74
273Wooden Leg Wall - Left CornerD 3b 20
274Spotted DickV3 6a 1
275Moby DickS 4a 141
276Old CodgerVS 4c *66
277Bold CodgerV3 6a 2
278Wooden Leg WallHVS 5c *46
279Owd GadgeeE1 6b 3
280Young GadflyHS 4b 12
281Wooden Leg Wall - Right CornerHD 3c 17
282Stoker's CrackS 4b 83
283Knick KnackE1 5b 27
284Stoker's SaunterVD 98
285Easy CornerM 33
286Matelot's MeanderS 4a *107
 KISMET BUTTRESS  
288Yard ArmHS 4c 25
289ImplosionHVS 5c 32
290ExplosionVS 5b *159
291Blast Hole WallVS 5b 110
292Cor Limey!HD 3a 17
293Powder KegHVD 4a 31
294RefuseV3 6a 3
295FuseVS 5a *192
296Gun-Cotton GrooveVD *375
297Cook's RibE1 5c *100
298Horatio's DirectVS 4c *124
299Horatio's HorrorHS 4a **379
300Heavy CruiserE1 6a  
301Nelson's NemesisVS 4b ***559
302Tom's AreteE5 6b  
303Victory ViceVD *115
304For Queen and CountryVS 4b 37
305DeviceVS 4c *133
306Gunpowder Gully AreteHVD 133
307Gunpowder GullyD *95
308Sea Dog SlabVD 111
309Sea Dog Slab DirectV0- 4b 6
310Sea Dog Slab IndirectV0- 5a 5
311Sailor's chuteHVD 4a 49
312They Think It's All OverVS 4b 5
313It Is NowVD 3c 12
314It Is Now DirectVD 4b 9
315The Chain Direct StartV0 5a 3
316Ta Ta Ta For Now HS 5a 1
317The Admiral's Head *D 3b 3
318Rum Wall Direct *HVD 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Lukem6

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There is a pay car park and a field across the road. pick which you prefer. wet days I'd say the 4 will be worth it.
Lukem6 - 27/Oct/13

Surprised yesterday to have to pay for the Car Park. 2.50 up to 4 hours, 4 all day. Free to NT or RSPB members.
D Berry - 27/Oct/13

The is a problem on the back of the royal sovereign boulder that starts lying down under the overhang pulls through to a slot from slopers on the lip of the overhang and then on to the top with a tiny mono on the top. Does anyone no the name or grade? Thanks
ceturnock - 09/Sep/13

There's a large block halfway up Gun-cotton Groove (VD) on Kismet Buttress which is quite loose. Avoiding using this probably puts it up a grade. Perhaps no longer a "good beginners' climb".
Howard J - 04/Aug/10

Just a quick update... Took a youth group from my Church there this weekend and had a fantastic time. We climbed to the right of the monument, using "On Peak Rock" as a guide. First of all, there's about 500m of delicious rock to the right of the monument, which are not covered by the guidebook :( We camped at the Eric Byne memorial site by the Robin Hood Inn. It's run by the really old couple again, after being run by the Peak authority for a while. It's 2.50 pppn, with toilets and fresh water. They now have a bin area which is new since I was last there (2003). Still no campfires, but where can you these days :( Still a superb crag, unbeatable for groups, families, beginners and first-time outdoor lead climbers.
rich in wales - 20/Oct/07

Victory Vice the V Diff on the Kismet Buttress has got bats living in it just a warning!!!
David Hollyer - 30/May/06

I love this crag - Gives us VS climbers the chance for great low grade soloing. Lots of lovely classically grit moves on a small scale.
Reds - 08/Mar/04

Don\'t miss the great bouldering opportunities to be had on the three large boulders on top of the crag. Each boulder has its name carved into the rock and is named after the Flagships of Nelson\'s fleet at the battle of Trafalgar.
Michael Hunt - 20/Jan/02