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View larger mapGrid Ref SK 278727 (OS Landranger #119)

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These details were last updated on 19/Jul/2013

Birchen Edge

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 294 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A fine, natural edge in an elevated position overlooking the Derwent Valley. Excellent, quick-drying clean grit (up to 15m), climbable at all times of the year (occasionally sandy after rain). Large number of low grade routes make this a beginner's (and unfortunately Outdoor Pursuit Group's) favourite spot. Often busy but loads to choose from. Don't miss the classic VSs, The Crow's Nest, Top Sail, Sail Buttress, Trafalgar Wall and Nelson's Nemesis.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.7mm rain
Sunny periods
8 °C
25 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
7 °C
13 kph

0.2mm rain
Sunny periods
9 °C
23 kph

10.9mm rain
Mainly cloudy
7 °C
29 kph

11.2mm rain
Mainly cloudy
8 °C
19 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Peak Gritstone East (2001), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 FAR LEFT  
2PortsideHS 4b 9
3The BrinyE1 5b 3
4StarboardsideHS 4b 11
5Bosun's NoseS 4c 113
6Bosun's CrackVD 196
7Bosun's WallS 4a 162
8The GangplankM *682
 POOP DECK  
10Poop CrackVB 4a 50
11Handy CrackD 474
12Handy WallV0- 4b *23
13Visitors OnlyHS 4a *377
14Visitors WallV1 5b 13
15Howships LacunaeV5 * 
16PDCLWV1 5b * 
17All AboardD 381
18Saltheart FoamfollowerHVS 5b 71
19Poop Deck CrackS 4a *254
20The PirateV6 1
 THE CROW'S NEST  
22Disabled SeamanV3 6a 20
23Cabin BoyV5 6b 41
24The CabinV4 6b 56
25LogV1 5c 24
26Sling Your HammockV1 ***14
27Dan's AreteV6 6b 8
28Crow's FeetV2 5c 7
29Land Ho!S 4c 136
30The Crow's NestVS 4c **702
31Scrim NetE1 6a 64
32Scrim Net StartV3 6a *29
33Lookout AreteS 4a *188
34The FunnelHD **426
35Kiss Me HardyS *452
36The DancerE1 5c 11
37Kiss Me Arse (Sit Start)V5 6b 31
38Kiss Me Arse (Standing Start)V3 6b 26
39Monocled MonoV5 6b 17
40Kiss Me SoftyV3 6b 27
41Victory CrackHS 4b **494
42Victory GullyS 4a 238
 EMMA'S SLAB  
44Emma's SlabVS 4b 406
45Roger the Cabin BoyV5  
46Technical GeniusV6 6b *19
47Technical Genius (sit start)f7A+ **2
48Technical Genius AreteV4 6a *14
49Emma's DilemmaS 4b **1037
50Emma RoydVS 4c 248
51Emma's TemptationHVD 4c *894
52Emma's DelightHS 4b *577
53DeludedHS 4b 205
54Emma's DelusionS 4a *359
55The ProwVS 4c 565
56ArtificialVD 48
57Oak GullyM 47
58Oak TowerVD 46
59Heather CornerD 32
60Heather Corner SlabM 29
 NELSON'S SLAB  
62The RiggingD 45
63The Bunk LadderHVD 4a 23
64Captain's PrerogativeHS 4b *649
65Captain's BunkHS 4b *583
66Telescope TunnelM 372
67Captain's CrawlM 105
68Porthole ButtressS 4a *233
69Porthole DirectVS 4c **828
70Porthole Super Super DirectVS 5a 15
71Victor HugoE4 6b * 
72Captain BirdseyeVS 4c 116
73Blind EyeS 4b *192
74The Proprioceptive Octetnone 15
75Admiral's Flushed HeadD 6
76Dead EyeHVS 6a 24
77Nelson's SlabHS 5a **525
78Nelson's Slab Indirect StartHS 4b 27
79Nelson's Slab Direct StartV3 6a 10
80Half NelsonVS 5a *215
81Left Ladder ChimneyVD 144
82SplicedS 4a 13
83Right Ladder ChimneyHVD 4a 104
 SAIL BUTTRESS  
85Midshipman / Plain SailingE2 6a ***67
86Nor'-easterHVS 5a 15
87Cold CompassE2 6b *1
88The KrakenE6 6c ***2
89Sail ButtressHS 4b **1344
90Roger the Cabin BoyVS 4c *83
91RatlineHVS 5b ***379
92Amazing GraceE2 6a *3
93Sail ChimneyS 4a ***792
94TopsailVS 4c ***1814
95SpinnakerVS 5a 16
96Monument Chimney CrackVD *327
97Monument ChimneyD **522
 ORPHEUS WALL  
99Pillar WallS 4a 124
100The BowS 4a 193
101BuggerV1 5b 13
102Orpheus WallHVS 5c **350
103UnderworldV2 6a 13
104PeachesE4 6b ***16
105Peaches StartV3 6a 9
106CreamV5 6b 3
107PixieV1 5c 2
108Pixie (sit start)V5 6b 1
109Monument GullyVD **213
110Book SnifferE6 6b 1
111Monument Gully ButtressHVS 5b 241
112The KeelHVS 5b 111
113Naughty NauticalsE2 6b 10
114The BoomHVS 5a *2
 THE THREE SHIPS  
 VICTORY  
117EuryalusV0- 5a 118
118V for VictoryV0- 4a 162
119Prow LeftV0- 4b 156
120Prow RightV0- 4c 150
121Victor's LedgeVB 66
122Prow Right DynoV4 6b *5
123OrionV0 5b 77
124NeptuneV0- 4b 93
125The Victory TraverseV0- 4a 38
 DEFIANCE  
127FinisterreV0- 4c 122
128St VincentV0- 4c 128
129CalviV0 5a 103
130AboukirV0- 4c 116
131TenerifeV0- 4c 153
132Tenerife Right-HandV0 5b 65
133The Defiance TraverseV1 5a 33
 ROYAL SOVERIN  
135RoyalV0- 5a 104
136BilgeV0- 4b 95
137BuccaneerV0- 4c 74
138Buccaneer LeftV0- 40
139Press GangV1 5b 52
140Mini roofV2 6a *3
141OrlopV0 5b 81
142The Royal Soverin TraverseVB 30
 THE PROMENADE  
144Cutting CornersHVD 4a 3
145The PromenadeD **876
146Promenade DirectHVD 4a *583
147PromareteV3 6a 18
148The ChainS 4a *553
149Gritstone MegamixV5 6b *10
150HMS DaringV8 6c ***2
151HMS Daring Right HandV8+ 6c  
152Thing on a SpringV4 6b 39
153Hollybush Gully (Birchen)VD 4b *261
154Anchor TraverseHS 4b *151
155Floating AnarchyHVS 5a 35
156Powder Monkey ParadeS 4b ***1153
157Oarsman Aretef6B+ *5
158OarsmanHVS 6b 13
 Climb nameGradex
159'Oar 'OuseV6 6c 1
160HornblowerE1 6b *57
161Obstructive PensionerV6 6c *4
162Jumpers for TrousersV10 7a  
163HangoverHVS 5b 57
164Admiral's ProgressD *353
165Polaris ExitD *174
 TRAFALGAR WALL  
167Bulbous BowHVS 5b 144
168HammockVS 5b 127
169Camperdown CrawlHS 4c ***1367
170Camperdown Crawl Right Hand VariantVS 5c 30
171Barnacle BulgeHS 4c *703
172Trafalgar CrackVD 4a **1787
173Trafalgar WallS 4b ***1652
174The Defiance VariationV0 5b 11
175Defiance CrackVD 4a 17
176The Long PromenadeVS 4b **31
 STOKER'S WALL  
178Bell Bottom AreteS 4a 205
179Sailor's CrackS 4b 201
180Sailor's ProblemVD 499
181Whatknot?S 4b 225
182Reef KnotS 4b *540
183Sheet Bend (aka Sheep Bend)S 4b 222
184Nautical CrackVD *748
185Heave HoS 4a 241
186Yo-Ho CrackVD *1066
187Rum WallVD 566
188Rum BreakVD 86
189Stoker's BreakVD 632
190Stoker's HoleHS 4a *756
191StokedS 4a 820
192Stoker's WallD *785
193Stoker's Wall TraverseVD 3c 21
194Stoker's Wall FlakeV0- 4a 23
195Crack right of Stoker's WallM 2c 25
196Chasing the DragonV9 7a  
 COPENHAGEN WALL  
198ScandiwallV0- 4b 1
199Copenhagen Wall TraverseS 4a 20
200Copenhagen Corner Left-Hand VariantVD 21
201Copenhagen CornerS 4b 312
202ScandiareteVS 5c *273
203Dane's DelightHS 5b 460
204Dane's DisgustHS 5b 279
205Carlsberg ExportV3 6a 16
206Copenhagen WallVS 5a *370
207The MermaidV9 7a 1
208MP3V8 6b 23
209Wonderful CopenhagenVS 5a *265
210Mast Gully RidgeVD *365
211Mast GullyM 193
 THE FO'C'SLE  
213Mast Gully WallVD 4b 101
214Mast Gully CrackHS 4b *165
215Mast Gully ButtressVS 5a **155
216Fo'c'sle WallVS 4c *284
217Fo'c'sle CrackS 4b **502
218Fo'c'sle ChimneyVD *204
219Fo'c'sle AreteVS 5b *60
220Fo'c'sle Arete (Direct Start)V1 5c 2
221BroadsideE2 6a 22
222LowsideV5 6b 4
223The BuccaneerV6 6b 1
224The BrigandV11 7a 2
225Cave GullyVD *78
 TAR'S WALL  
227Ta Very MuchHS 4c 78
228Tar's AreteVD 4a *294
229Ta Ta For NowHS 5a 210
230Tar's CrackVD *356
231Tar's TeeterVS 4c *9
232Tar's WallHVD 4b 363
233SodomyV4 6a 15
234Tar's Traverse Left-Hand StartS 4c 24
235Tar's TraverseD 242
236Tar's ClimbM 131
237Tar's CornerD 158
238Tar's GullyM 278
239Pig HeadS 4c 209
240PigtailS 4a 244
241WavedanceHS 5b 98
242Prow WallM 189
243Prow GullyM 2c 22
244Prow Gully Prow Left-Hand VariationV0- 4c 1
245Prow Gully ProwHD 3a 19
 BARBETTE BUTTRESS  
247Barbette AreteV0- 4b 19
248Barbette CrackHS 4b 172
249Barbette WallS 4a 119
250Barbette ButtressS 4b *307
251Cannonball CrackS 3c 76
252Cannonball WallVD 319
253Cannonball Wall DirectVS 5a 49
254Gunner's GangwayD 226
255Lieutenant's LadderD 131
256Men UnitedV1 5b 17
257Isle of MenV2 5c *13
 GUNNER'S BUTTRESS  
259Midge's ManoeuvreE2 6a 6
260Middy's ManoeuvreHS 4c 105
261MidwayE1 6b 28
262Torpedo TubeHVD 4a 178
263FlatabackE1 6a 11
264Das BootVS 4c 16
265Gunner's GrooveD 225
266Seasick Arete left hand variationV0 5b 11
267Seasick AreteHS 5a *322
268Seasick SlabVD 4b 449
269Sick as a ParrotHD 4a 22
 WOODEN LEG WALL  
271Three Sheets to the WindHVD 4b 11
272Cabin FeverHVD 4a 72
273Wooden Leg Wall - Left CornerD 3b 19
274Spotted DickV3 6a  
275Moby DickS 4a 136
276Old CodgerVS 4c *66
277Bold CodgerV3 6a 1
278Wooden Leg WallHVS 5c *43
279Owd GadgeeE1 6b 3
280Young GadflyHS 4b 11
281Wooden Leg Wall - Right CornerHD 3c 16
282Stoker's CrackS 4b 79
283Knick KnackE1 5b 26
284Stoker's SaunterVD 94
285Easy CornerM 31
286Matelot's MeanderS 4a *102
 KISMET BUTTRESS  
288Yard ArmHS 4c 25
289ImplosionHVS 5c 30
290ExplosionVS 5b *154
291Blast Hole WallVS 5b 105
292Cor Limey!HD 3a 17
293Powder KegHVD 4a 31
294RefuseV3 6a 3
295FuseVS 5a *185
296Gun-Cotton GrooveVD *357
297Cook's RibE1 5c *91
298Horatio's DirectVS 4c *123
299Horatio's HorrorHS 4a **364
300Heavy CruiserE1 6a  
301Nelson's NemesisVS 4b ***534
302Tom's AreteE5 6b  
303Victory ViceVD *113
304For Queen and CountryVS 4b 37
305DeviceVS 4c *127
306Gunpowder Gully AreteHVD 128
307Gunpowder GullyD *93
308Sea Dog SlabVD 105
309Sea Dog Slab DirectV0- 4b 6
310Sea Dog Slab IndirectV0- 5a 5
311Sailor's chuteHVD 4a 49
312They Think It's All OverVS 4b 5
313It Is NowVD 3c 12
314It Is Now DirectVD 4b 9
315The Chain Direct StartV0 5a 3
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Access notes
From 100m above the Eric Byne car park at SK 279721 on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619) in <15 min.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Lukem6

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There is a pay car park and a field across the road. pick which you prefer. wet days I'd say the £4 will be worth it.
Lukem6 - 27/Oct/13

Surprised yesterday to have to pay for the Car Park. £2.50 up to 4 hours, £4 all day. Free to NT or RSPB members.
D Berry - 27/Oct/13

The is a problem on the back of the royal sovereign boulder that starts lying down under the overhang pulls through to a slot from slopers on the lip of the overhang and then on to the top with a tiny mono on the top. Does anyone no the name or grade? Thanks
ceturnock - 09/Sep/13

There's a large block halfway up Gun-cotton Groove (VD) on Kismet Buttress which is quite loose. Avoiding using this probably puts it up a grade. Perhaps no longer a "good beginners' climb".
Howard J - 04/Aug/10

Just a quick update... Took a youth group from my Church there this weekend and had a fantastic time. We climbed to the right of the monument, using "On Peak Rock" as a guide. First of all, there's about 500m of delicious rock to the right of the monument, which are not covered by the guidebook :( We camped at the Eric Byne memorial site by the Robin Hood Inn. It's run by the really old couple again, after being run by the Peak authority for a while. It's £2.50 pppn, with toilets and fresh water. They now have a bin area which is new since I was last there (2003). Still no campfires, but where can you these days :( Still a superb crag, unbeatable for groups, families, beginners and first-time outdoor lead climbers.
rich in wales - 20/Oct/07

Victory Vice the V Diff on the Kismet Buttress has got bats living in it just a warning!!!
David Hollyer - 30/May/06

I love this crag - Gives us VS climbers the chance for great low grade soloing. Lots of lovely classically grit moves on a small scale.
Reds - 08/Mar/04

Don\'t miss the great bouldering opportunities to be had on the three large boulders on top of the crag. Each boulder has its name carved into the rock and is named after the Flagships of Nelson\'s fleet at the battle of Trafalgar.
Michael Hunt - 20/Jan/02