View larger mapGrid Ref SK 278727 (OS Landranger #119)

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These details were last updated on 19/Jul/2013

Birchen Edge

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 297 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A fine, natural edge in an elevated position overlooking the Derwent Valley. Excellent, quick-drying clean grit (up to 15m), climbable at all times of the year (occasionally sandy after rain). Large number of low grade routes make this a beginner's (and unfortunately Outdoor Pursuit Group's) favourite spot. Often busy but loads to choose from. Don't miss the classic VSs, The Crow's Nest, Top Sail, Sail Buttress, Trafalgar Wall and Nelson's Nemesis.

Access notes
From 100m above the Eric Byne car park at SK 279721 on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619) in <15 min.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Wed  Thu  Fri  Sat 

0.0mm rain
17 °C
15 kph

0.7mm rain
Mainly cloudy
13 °C
20 kph

0.0mm rain
12 °C
14 kph

0.5mm rain
Mainly cloudy
15 °C
32 kph

5.7mm rain
10 °C
30 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Peak Gritstone East (2001), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
2PortsideHS 4b 10
3The BrinyE1 5b 4
4StarboardsideHS 4b 12
5Bosun's NoseS 4c 124
6Bosun's CrackVD 209
7Bosun's WallS 4a 175
8The GangplankM *718
10Poop CrackVB 4a 55
11Handy CrackD 503
12Handy WallV0- 4b *27
13Visitors OnlyHS 4a *405
14Visitors WallV1 5b 13
15Howships LacunaeV5 *2
16PDCLWV1 5b *1
17All AboardD 400
18Saltheart FoamfollowerHVS 5b 71
19Poop Deck CrackS 4a *271
20The PirateV6 2
22Disabled SeamanV3 6a 23
23Cabin BoyV5 6b 43
24The CabinV4 6b 60
25LogV1 5c 26
26Sling Your HammockV1 ***16
27Dan's AreteV6 6b 11
28Crow's FeetV2 5c 8
29Land Ho!S 4c 145
30The Crow's NestVS 4c **749
31Scrim NetE1 6a 67
32Scrim Net StartV3 6a *30
33Lookout AreteS 4a *197
34The FunnelHD **448
35Kiss Me HardyS *483
36The DancerE1 5c 12
37Kiss Me Arse (Sit Start)V5 6b 33
38Kiss Me Arse (Standing Start)V3 6b 28
39Monocled MonoV5 6b 18
40Kiss Me SoftyV3 6b 29
41Victory CrackHS 4b **545
42Victory GullyS 4a 253
44Emma's SlabVS 4b 432
45Roger the Cabin BoyV5  
46Technical GeniusV6 6b *20
47Technical Genius (sit start)f7A+ **2
48Technical Genius AreteV4 6a *15
49Emma's DilemmaS 4b **1105
50Emma RoydVS 4c 282
51Emma's TemptationHVD 4c *943
52Emma's DelightHS 4b *616
53DeludedHS 4b 221
54Emma's DelusionS 4a *386
55The ProwVS 4c 605
56ArtificialVD 50
57Oak GullyM 48
58Oak TowerVD 46
59Heather CornerD 32
60Heather Corner SlabM 29
62The RiggingD 45
63The Bunk LadderHVD 4a 24
64Captain's PrerogativeHS 4b *687
65Captain's BunkHS 4b *616
66Telescope TunnelM 395
67Captain's CrawlM 110
68Porthole ButtressS 4a *258
69Porthole DirectVS 4c **889
70Porthole Super Super DirectVS 5a 17
71Victor HugoE4 6b *1
72Captain BirdseyeVS 4c 130
73Blind EyeS 4b *206
74The Proprioceptive Octetnone 19
75Admiral's Flushed HeadD 6
76Dead EyeHVS 6a 25
77Nelson's SlabHS 5a **557
78Nelson's Slab Indirect StartHS 4b 27
79Nelson's Slab Direct StartV3 6a 10
80Half NelsonVS 5a *228
81Left Ladder ChimneyVD 149
82SplicedS 4a 13
83Right Ladder ChimneyHVD 4a 109
85Midshipman / Plain SailingE2 6a ***69
86Nor'-easterHVS 5a 17
87Cold CompassE2 6b *1
88The KrakenE6 6c ***2
89Sail ButtressHS 4b **1446
90Roger the Cabin BoyVS 4c *89
91RatlineHVS 5b ***401
92Amazing GraceE2 6a *3
93Sail ChimneyS 4a ***850
94TopsailVS 4c ***1952
95SpinnakerVS 5a 17
96Monument Chimney CrackVD *341
97Monument ChimneyD **556
99Pillar WallS 4a 130
100The BowS 4a 206
101BuggerV1 5b 14
102Orpheus WallHVS 5c **384
103UnderworldV2 6a 14
104PeachesE4 6b ***17
105Peaches StartV3 6a 11
106CreamV5 6b 4
107PixieV1 5c 3
108Pixie (sit start)V5 6b 2
109Monument GullyVD **223
110Book SnifferE6 6b 1
111Monument Gully ButtressHVS 5b 265
112The KeelHVS 5b 114
113Naughty NauticalsE2 6b 11
114The BoomHVS 5a *2
117EuryalusV0- 5a 149
118V for VictoryV0- 4a 196
119Prow LeftV0- 4b 185
120Prow RightV0- 4c 177
121Victor's LedgeVB 93
122Prow Right DynoV4 6b *11
123OrionV0 5b 96
124NeptuneV0- 4b 114
125The Victory TraverseV0- 4a 54
127FinisterreV0- 4c 156
128St VincentV0- 4c 161
129CalviV0 5a 130
130AboukirV0- 4c 143
131TenerifeV0- 4c 187
132Tenerife Right-HandV0 5b 80
133The Defiance TraverseV1 5a 44
135RoyalV0- 5a 135
136BilgeV0- 4b 124
137BuccaneerV0- 4c 95
138Buccaneer LeftV0- 50
139Press GangV1 5b 66
140Mini roofV2 6a *15
141OrlopV0 5b 103
142The Royal Soverin TraverseVB 39
144Cutting CornersHVD 4a 3
145The PromenadeD **930
146Promenade DirectHVD 4a *624
147PromareteV3 6a 21
148The ChainS 4a *590
149Gritstone MegamixV5 6b *10
150HMS DaringV8 6c ***2
151HMS Daring Right HandV8+ 6c  
152Thing on a SpringV4 6b 40
153Hollybush Gully (Birchen)VD 4b *279
154Anchor TraverseHS 4b *158
155Floating AnarchyHVS 5a 38
156Powder Monkey ParadeS 4b ***1241
157Oarsman Aretef6B+ *6
158OarsmanHVS 6b 16
159'Oar 'OuseV6 6c 1
 Climb nameGradex
160HornblowerE1 6b *59
161Obstructive PensionerV6 6c *4
162Jumpers for TrousersV10 7a  
163HangoverHVS 5b 58
164Admiral's ProgressD *380
165Polaris ExitD *187
167Bulbous BowHVS 5b 152
168HammockVS 5b 136
169Camperdown CrawlHS 4c ***1459
170Camperdown Crawl Right Hand VariantVS 5c 31
171Barnacle BulgeHS 4c *756
172Trafalgar CrackVD 4a **1912
173Trafalgar WallS 4b ***1766
174The Defiance VariationV0 5b 12
175Defiance CrackVD 4a 17
176The Long PromenadeVS 4b **36
178Bell Bottom AreteS 4a 227
179Sailor's CrackS 4b 220
180Sailor's ProblemVD 530
181Whatknot?S 4b 244
182Reef KnotS 4b *569
183Sheet Bend (aka Sheep Bend)S 4b 247
184Nautical CrackVD *806
185Heave HoS 4a 264
186Yo-Ho CrackVD *1150
187Rum WallVD 607
188Rum BreakVD 90
189Stoker's BreakVD 678
190Stoker's HoleHS 4a *809
191StokedS 4a 875
192Stoker's WallD *838
193Stoker's Wall TraverseVD 3c 23
194Stoker's Wall FlakeV0- 4a 25
195Crack right of Stoker's WallM 2c 28
196Chasing the DragonV9 7a  
198ScandiwallV0- 4b 4
199Copenhagen Wall TraverseS 4a 20
200Copenhagen Corner Left-Hand VariantVD 23
201Copenhagen CornerS 4b 336
202ScandiareteVS 5c *291
203Dane's DelightHS 5b 499
204Dane's DisgustHS 5b 296
205Carlsberg ExportV3 6a 17
206Copenhagen WallVS 5a *392
207The MermaidV9 7a 1
208MP3V8 6b 24
209Wonderful CopenhagenVS 5a *284
210Mast Gully RidgeVD *394
211Mast GullyM 207
213Mast Gully WallVD 4b 111
214Mast Gully CrackHS 4b *173
215Mast Gully ButtressVS 5a **161
216Fo'c'sle WallVS 4c *303
217Fo'c'sle CrackS 4b **543
218Fo'c'sle ChimneyVD *220
219Fo'c'sle AreteVS 5b *61
220Fo'c'sle Arete (Direct Start)V1 5c 3
221BroadsideE2 6a 23
222LowsideV5 6b 4
223The BuccaneerV6 6b 1
224The BrigandV11 7a 2
225Cave GullyVD *82
227Ta Very MuchHS 4c 86
228Tar's AreteVD 4a *319
229Ta Ta For NowHS 5a 222
230Tar's CrackVD *386
231Tar's TeeterVS 4c *11
232Tar's WallHVD 4b 386
233SodomyV4 6a 17
234Tar's Traverse Left-Hand StartS 4c 25
235Tar's TraverseD 257
236Tar's ClimbM 146
237Tar's CornerD 164
238Tar's GullyM 303
239Pig HeadS 4c 222
240PigtailS 4a 266
241WavedanceHS 5b 103
242Prow WallM 199
243Prow GullyM 2c 23
244Prow Gully Prow Left-Hand VariationV0- 4c 2
245Prow Gully ProwHD 3a 22
247Barbette AreteV0- 4b 24
248Barbette CrackHS 4b 190
249Barbette WallS 4a 132
250Barbette ButtressS 4b *332
251Cannonball CrackS 3c 81
252Cannonball WallVD 340
253Cannonball Wall DirectVS 5a 51
254Gunner's GangwayD 246
255Lieutenant's LadderD 144
256Men UnitedV1 5b 19
257Isle of MenV2 5c *16
259Midge's ManoeuvreE2 6a 7
260Middy's ManoeuvreHS 4c 111
261MidwayE1 6b 30
262Torpedo TubeHVD 4a 184
263FlatabackE1 6a 12
264Das BootVS 4c 18
265Gunner's GrooveD 240
266Seasick Arete left hand variationV0 5b 12
267Seasick AreteHS 5a *340
268Seasick SlabVD 4b 478
269Sick as a ParrotHD 4a 24
271Three Sheets to the WindHVD 4b 12
272Cabin FeverHVD 4a 75
273Wooden Leg Wall - Left CornerD 3b 21
274Spotted DickV3 6a 1
275Moby DickS 4a 143
276Old CodgerVS 4c *68
277Bold CodgerV3 6a 2
278Wooden Leg WallHVS 5c *46
279Owd GadgeeE1 6b 4
280Young GadflyHS 4b 12
281Wooden Leg Wall - Right CornerHD 3c 17
282Stoker's CrackS 4b 85
283Knick KnackE1 5b 31
284Stoker's SaunterVD 101
285Easy CornerM 34
286Matelot's MeanderS 4a *110
288Yard ArmHS 4c 28
289ImplosionHVS 5c 33
290ExplosionVS 5b *161
291Blast Hole WallVS 5b 111
292Cor Limey!HD 3a 18
293Powder KegHVD 4a 34
294RefuseV3 6a 4
295FuseVS 5a *193
296Gun-Cotton GrooveVD *380
297Cook's RibE1 5c *107
298Horatio's DirectVS 4c *125
299Horatio's HorrorHS 4a **383
300Heavy CruiserE1 6a  
301Nelson's NemesisVS 4b ***570
302Tom's AreteE5 6b 1
303Victory ViceVD *116
304For Queen and CountryVS 4b 37
305DeviceVS 4c *137
306Gunpowder Gully AreteHVD 134
307Gunpowder GullyD *95
308Sea Dog SlabVD 114
309Sea Dog Slab DirectV0- 4b 7
310Sea Dog Slab IndirectV0- 5a 6
311Sailor's chuteHVD 4a 50
312They Think It's All OverVS 4b 5
313It Is NowVD 3c 12
314It Is Now DirectVD 4b 9
315The Chain Direct StartV0 5a 4
316Ta Ta Ta For Now HS 5a 2
317The Admiral's Head *D 3b 4
318Rum Wall Direct *HVD 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There is a pay car park and a field across the road. pick which you prefer. wet days I'd say the 4 will be worth it.
Lukem6 - 27/Oct/13

Surprised yesterday to have to pay for the Car Park. 2.50 up to 4 hours, 4 all day. Free to NT or RSPB members.
D Berry - 27/Oct/13

The is a problem on the back of the royal sovereign boulder that starts lying down under the overhang pulls through to a slot from slopers on the lip of the overhang and then on to the top with a tiny mono on the top. Does anyone no the name or grade? Thanks
ceturnock - 09/Sep/13

There's a large block halfway up Gun-cotton Groove (VD) on Kismet Buttress which is quite loose. Avoiding using this probably puts it up a grade. Perhaps no longer a "good beginners' climb".
Howard J - 04/Aug/10

Just a quick update... Took a youth group from my Church there this weekend and had a fantastic time. We climbed to the right of the monument, using "On Peak Rock" as a guide. First of all, there's about 500m of delicious rock to the right of the monument, which are not covered by the guidebook :( We camped at the Eric Byne memorial site by the Robin Hood Inn. It's run by the really old couple again, after being run by the Peak authority for a while. It's 2.50 pppn, with toilets and fresh water. They now have a bin area which is new since I was last there (2003). Still no campfires, but where can you these days :( Still a superb crag, unbeatable for groups, families, beginners and first-time outdoor lead climbers.
rich in wales - 20/Oct/07

Victory Vice the V Diff on the Kismet Buttress has got bats living in it just a warning!!!
David Hollyer - 30/May/06

I love this crag - Gives us VS climbers the chance for great low grade soloing. Lots of lovely classically grit moves on a small scale.
Reds - 08/Mar/04

Don\'t miss the great bouldering opportunities to be had on the three large boulders on top of the crag. Each boulder has its name carved into the rock and is named after the Flagships of Nelson\'s fleet at the battle of Trafalgar.
Michael Hunt - 20/Jan/02