Climbs 302
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces SW

"Pensioner's at play" he said © Joshua Willett

Crag features

A fine, natural edge in an elevated position overlooking the Derwent Valley. Excellent, quick-drying clean grit (up to 15m), climbable at all times of the year (occasionally sandy after rain). Large number of low grade routes make this a beginner's (and unfortunately Outdoor Pursuit Group's) favourite spot. Often busy but loads to choose from. Don't miss the classic VSs, The Crow's Nest, Top Sail, Sail Buttress, Trafalgar Wall and Nelson's Nemesis.

Approach notes

From 100m above the Eric Byne car park at SK 279721 on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619) in <15 min.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
my favourite crag.
Stanners - 11/Sep/15
There is a pay car park and a field across the road. pick which you prefer. wet days I'd say the 4 will be worth it.
Lukem6 - 27/Oct/13
Surprised yesterday to have to pay for the Car Park. 2.50 up to 4 hours, 4 all day. Free to NT or RSPB members.
D Berry - 27/Oct/13
The is a problem on the back of the royal sovereign boulder that starts lying down under the overhang pulls through to a slot from slopers on the lip of the overhang and then on to the top with a tiny mono on the top. Does anyone no the name or grade? Thanks
ceturnock - 09/Sep/13
There's a large block halfway up Gun-cotton Groove (VD) on Kismet Buttress which is quite loose. Avoiding using this probably puts it up a grade. Perhaps no longer a "good beginners' climb".
Howard J - 04/Aug/10
Just a quick update... Took a youth group from my Church there this weekend and had a fantastic time. We climbed to the right of the monument, using "On Peak Rock" as a guide. First of all, there's about 500m of delicious rock to the right of the monument, which are not covered by the guidebook :( We camped at the Eric Byne memorial site by the Robin Hood Inn. It's run by the really old couple again, after being run by the Peak authority for a while. It's 2.50 pppn, with toilets and fresh water. They now have a bin area which is new since I was last there (2003). Still no campfires, but where can you these days :( Still a superb crag, unbeatable for groups, families, beginners and first-time outdoor lead climbers.
rich in wales - 20/Oct/07
Victory Vice the V Diff on the Kismet Buttress has got bats living in it just a warning!!!
David Hollyer - 30/May/06
I love this crag - Gives us VS climbers the chance for great low grade soloing. Lots of lovely classically grit moves on a small scale.
Reds - 08/Mar/04
Don\'t miss the great bouldering opportunities to be had on the three large boulders on top of the crag. Each boulder has its name carved into the rock and is named after the Flagships of Nelson\'s fleet at the battle of Trafalgar.
Michael Hunt - 20/Jan/02
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Far Left 
2PortsideHS 4b 13
3The BrinyE1 5b 4
4StarboardsideHS 4b 15
5Bosun's NoseS 4c 144
6Bosun's CrackVD 254
7Bosun's WallHVD 4a 209
8The GangplankM *829
 Poop Deck 
10Poop Crackf3 65
11Handy CrackD 563
12Handy WallV0- *32
13Visitors OnlyHS 4a *442
14Visitors WallV1 16
15Howships Lacunae
-
V5 *5
16PDCLW
-
V1 *3
17All AboardD 433
18Saltheart FoamfollowerHVS 5c *76
19Poop Deck CrackS 4a 302
20The PirateE2 6b 3
 The Crow's Nest 
22Disabled SeamanV3 31
23Cabin BoyV5 62
24The CabinV4 73
25LogV1 33
26Sling Your HammockV1 ***24
27Dan's Aretef6C *20
28Crow's Feetf5+ *11
29Land Ho!HS 4c *161
30The Crow's NestVS 4c **882
31Scrim Netf6A *78
32Scrim Net StartV3 *35
33Lookout AreteS 4a *215
34The FunnelD *499
35Kiss Me HardyHVD 4a *545
36The DancerE1 5c 13
37Kiss Me Arse (Sit Start)V5 49
38Kiss Me Arse (Standing Start)f6C *34
39Monocled Monof6C 20
40Kiss Me Softyf6B *34
41Victory CrackHS 4b *637
42Victory GullyS 4a *290
 Emma's Slab 
44Emma's SlabVS 4b *512
45Roger the Cabin Boyf6C *2
46Technical Geniusf7A *22
47Technical Genius (sit start)f7A+ **5
48Technical Genius AreteV4 *16
49Emma's DilemmaS 4a *1265
50Emma RoydVS 4c *322
51Emma's TemptationHVD 4c *1081
52Emma's DelightHS 4b *711
53DeludedVS 4c *250
54Emma's DelusionS 4a *441
55The ProwVS 4c *701
56ArtificialVD 55
57Oak GullyM 53
58Oak Tower
-
VD 51
59Heather Corner
-
D 36
60Heather Corner SlabM 35
 Nelson's Slab 
62The Rigging
-
D 49
63The Bunk LadderS 4a 30
64Captain's PrerogativeHS 4b *777
65Captain's BunkHS 4b *709
66Telescope TunnelM **452
67Captain's Crawl
-
M 130
68Porthole ButtressS 4a *287
69Porthole DirectVS 4c **1027
70Porthole Super Super DirectVS 5a 19
71Victor HugoE4 6b *1
72Captain BirdseyeVS 4c 148
73Blind EyeS 4b *225
74The Proprioceptive Octetnone 20
75Admiral's Flushed HeadD 10
76Dead EyeHVS 6a 30
77Nelson's SlabHS 5a *635
78Nelson's Slab Indirect StartHS 4b 28
79Nelson's Slab Direct Startf6A *11
80Half NelsonVS 5a *259
81Left Ladder ChimneyVD 168
82SplicedS 4a 14
83Right Ladder ChimneyHVD 4a 125
 Sail Buttress 
85Midshipman / Plain SailingE2 6a ***91
86Nor'-easter
-
HVS 5a 20
87Cold CompassE2 6b *1
88The KrakenE6 6c ***2
89Sail ButtressHS 4b **1681
90Roger the Cabin BoyVS 4c *105
91RatlineHVS 5b **462
92Amazing GraceE2 6a 4
93Sail ChimneyS 4a **980
94TopsailVS 4c **2297
95Marie's Gone to CanadaE1 5c 1
96SpinnakerVS 5a 20
97Monument Chimney CrackVD *397
98Monument ChimneyD *632
 Orpheus Wall 
100Pillar WallS 4a 144
101The BowS 4a *231
102BuggerV1 16
103Orpheus WallHVS 5c **481
104UnderworldV2 16
105PeachesE4 6b ***22
106Peaches StartV3 16
107CreamV5 5
108PixieV1 5
109Pixie (sit start)V5 3
110Monument GullyVD *252
111Book SnifferE6 6b 1
112Monument Gully ButtressHVS 5b *299
113The KeelHVS 5b *127
114Naughty NauticalsE2 6b 11
115The BoomHVS 5a *2
 The Three Ships 
 Victory 
118EuryalusV0- 175
119V for VictoryV0- 234
120Prow LeftV0- 217
121Prow RightV0- 211
122Victor's LedgeVB 120
123Prow Right DynoV4 *20
124OrionV0 117
125NeptuneV0- 133
126The Victory TraverseV0- 68
 Defiance 
128FinisterreV0- 183
129St VincentV0- 189
130CalviV0 156
131AboukirV0- 174
132TenerifeV0- 227
133Tenerife Right-Hand
-
V0 102
134The Defiance TraverseV1 56
 Royal Soverin 
136RoyalV0- 166
137BilgeV0- 149
138BuccaneerV0- 114
139Buccaneer LeftV0- 56
140Press GangV1 77
141Mini roofV2 *22
142OrlopV0 122
143The Royal Soverin TraverseVB 48
 The Promenade to Trafalgar Wall 
145Cutting CornersS 4a 5
146The PromenadeD **1086
147Promenade DirectHVD 4a *736
148Promaretef6A *34
149The ChainS 4a *684
150Gritstone Megamixf7A *19
151HMS Daringf7B+ *4
152HMS Daring Right HandV8+  
153Thing on a Springf7A *61
154Hollybush Gully (Birchen)VD 4b *328
155Anchor TraverseHS 4b *175
156Floating AnarchyHVS 5a 46
157Powder Monkey ParadeS 4b **1448
158Oarsman Aretef6B+ *7
159Oarsmanf6B+ 18
160'Oar 'Ousef7A 2
161Hornblowerf6C **71
162Obstructive Pensionerf7A+ *5
163Jumpers for Trousersf7C+ * 
164HangoverHVS 5b 67
165Admiral's ProgressD *434
166Polaris ExitD *208
 Trafalgar Wall 
168Bulbous Bowf5+ 164
169HammockVS 5b *165
170Camperdown CrawlHS 4c **1656
171Camperdown Crawl Right Hand VariantVS 5c 36
172Barnacle BulgeHS 4c *876
173Trafalgar CrackVD 4a *2189
174Trafalgar WallS 4b **2018
175The Defiance Variation
-
V0 13
176Defiance Crack
-
VD 4a 22
177The Long PromenadeVS 4b **43
 Stoker's Wall 
179Bell Bottom AreteS 4a 257
180Sailor's CrackS 4b *258
181Sailor's ProblemVD 588
182Whatknot?S 4b *296
183Reef KnotS 4b *637
184Sheet Bend (aka Sheep Bend)S 4b 282
185Nautical CrackVD *905
186Heave HoS 4a 306
187Yo-Ho CrackVD *1315
188Rum WallVD 686
189Rum BreakVD 103
190Stoker's BreakVD 760
191Stoker's HoleHS 4a *917
192StokedS 4a *984
193Stoker's WallD *949
194Stoker's Wall Traverse
-
VD 3c 30
195Stoker's Wall FlakeV0- 30
196Crack right of Stoker's WallM 2c 34
197Chasing the DragonV9  
 Copenhagen Wall 
199Scandiwallf3+ 14
200Copenhagen Wall Traverse
-
S 4a 26
201Copenhagen Corner Left-Hand VariantVD 24
202Copenhagen Cornerf3+ 369
203Scandiaretef5+ *321
204Dane's Delightf5 *546
205Dane's Disgustf5 *325
206Carlsberg Exportf6B 19
207Copenhagen WallVS 5a *432
208Mermaidf7C *2
209MP3
-
V8 40
210Wonderful Copenhagenf4+ *304
211Mast Gully RidgeVD *439
212Mast GullyM 229
 The Fo'c'sle 
214Mast Gully WallVD 4b 122
215Mast Gully CrackHS 4b *193
216Mast Gully ButtressVS 5a *181
217Fo'c'sle WallVS 4c *340
218Fo'c'sle CrackS 4b *618
219Fo'c'sle ChimneyVD *247
220Fo'c'sle AreteVS 5b *67
221Fo'c'sle Arete (Direct Start)V1 3
222Broadsidef6A+ *26
223LowsideV5 5
224The Buccaneerf7A *2
225The Brigandf7C+ *2
226Cave GullyVD *94
 Tar's Wall 
228Ta Very MuchHS 4c 96
229Tar's AreteVD 4a *366
230Ta Ta For NowHS 5a 249
231Tar's CrackVD *439
232Tar's TeeterVS 4c *12
233Tar's WallHVD 4b 432
234Sodomyf6C **23
235Tar's Traverse Left-Hand StartS 4c 28
236Tar's TraverseD 287
237Tar's ClimbM 171
238Tar's CornerM 176
239Tar's GullyD 346
240Pig HeadS 4c 244
241PigtailS 4a 288
242Wavedancef4+ 116
243Prow WallM 220
244Prow GullyM 28
245Prow Gully Prow Left-Hand Variation
-
V0- 3
246Prow Gully Prow
-
HD 3a 25
 Barbette Buttress 
248Barbette AreteS 4b 29
249Barbette CrackHS 4b *217
250Barbette WallS 4a 143
251Barbette ButtressS 4b *372
252Cannonball CrackS 3c 92
253Cannonball WallVD *385
254Cannonball Wall DirectVS 5a 57
255Gunner's GangwayD 279
256Lieutenant's LadderD 163
257Men UnitedV1 23
258Isle of MenV2 *18
 Seasick Slab 
260Midge's ManoeuvreE2 6a 10
261Middy's ManoeuvreHS 4c *131
262MidwayE1 6b 34
263Torpedo TubeHVD 4a *209
264FlatabackE1 6a 12
265Das BootVS 5a 22
266Gunner's GrooveD 267
267Seasick Arete left hand variation
-
V0 16
268Seasick Aretef4+ *386
269Seasick Slabf3+ 535
270Sick as a Parrot
-
HD 4a 28
 Wooden Leg Wall 
272Three Sheets to the WindHVD 4b 18
273Cabin FeverHVD 4a 86
274Wooden Leg Wall - Left CornerD 3b 23
275Spotted DickV3 2
276Moby DickS 4a 164
277Old CodgerVS 4c *78
278Bold CodgerE2 6a 4
279Wooden Leg WallHVS 5c *56
280Owd GadgeeE2 6a 4
281Young Gadfly
-
HS 4b 14
282Wooden Leg Wall - Right Corner
-
HD 3c 23
283Stoker's CrackS 4b 96
284Knick KnackE1 5b 38
285Stoker's SaunterVD 115
286Easy CornerM 40
287Matelot's MeanderS 4a 130
 Kismet Buttress 
289Yard ArmHS 4c 33
290Implosionf5+ 37
291Explosionf4+ *176
292Blast Hole Wallf5 *125
293Cor Limey!VD 22
294Powder KegS 4a 40
295RefuseV3 5
296FuseVS 5a *221
297Gun-Cotton GrooveVD *429
298Cook's RibE1 5c *121
299Horatio's DirectVS 4c *147
300Horatio's HorrorHS 4a **440
301Heavy CruiserE1 6a  
302Nelson's NemesisVS 4b ***718
303Tom's AreteE5 6b 1
304Victory ViceVD *132
305For Queen and CountryHVS 4c 42
306DeviceHVS 4c 149
307Gunpowder Gully AreteS 3c 148
308Gunpowder GullyD 108
309Sea Dog SlabVD 130
310Sea Dog Slab Direct
-
V0- 10
311Sea Dog Slab Indirect
-
V0- 7
312Sailor's chuteHVD 4a 65
313They Think It's All Over
-
VS 4b 6
314It Is Now
-
VD 3c 14
315It Is Now DirectVD 4b 11
316Ta Ta Ta For NowHS 5a 2
317The Admiral's HeadD 8
318Master and CommanderV5 *1
319Cabin Boy Variationf6C *2
320Seasick Stevef6A+ *6
321Whatnot, Stokers wall *
-
M 1
 Routes Added from Rockfax Book 
323Eliminate Flake *V0+ *3
324Iron Eye *V7 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Lukem6