Birchen Edge

Climbs 298 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A fine, natural edge in an elevated position overlooking the Derwent Valley. Excellent, quick-drying clean grit (up to 15m), climbable at all times of the year (occasionally sandy after rain). Large number of low grade routes make this a beginner's (and unfortunately Outdoor Pursuit Group's) favourite spot. Often busy but loads to choose from. Don't miss the classic VSs, The Crow's Nest, Top Sail, Sail Buttress, Trafalgar Wall and Nelson's Nemesis.

Access notes
From 100m above the Eric Byne car park at SK 279721 on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619) in <15 min.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Peak Gritstone East (2001), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 FAR LEFT  
2PortsideHS 4b 12
3The BrinyE1 5b 4
4StarboardsideHS 4b 14
5Bosun's NoseS 4c 129
6Bosun's CrackVD 218
7Bosun's WallS 4a 183
8The GangplankM *732
 POOP DECK  
10Poop CrackVB 4a 60
11Handy CrackD 514
12Handy WallV0- 4b *29
13Visitors OnlyHS 4a *412
14Visitors WallV1 5b 13
15Howships LacunaeV5 *3
16PDCLWV1 5b *2
17All AboardD 406
18Saltheart FoamfollowerHVS 5b 72
19Poop Deck CrackS 4a *275
20The PirateV6 3
 THE CROW'S NEST  
22Disabled SeamanV3 6a 24
23Cabin BoyV5 6b 46
24The CabinV4 6b 61
25LogV1 5c 27
26Sling Your HammockV1 ***17
27Dan's AreteV6 6b 15
28Crow's FeetV2 5c 9
29Land Ho!S 4c 147
30The Crow's NestVS 4c **760
31Scrim NetE1 6a *71
32Scrim Net StartV3 6a *31
33Lookout AreteS 4a *201
34The FunnelD *453
35Kiss Me HardyS 4a *493
36The DancerE1 5c 12
37Kiss Me Arse (Sit Start)V5 6b 37
38Kiss Me Arse (Standing Start)V3 6b 31
39Monocled MonoV5 6b 20
40Kiss Me SoftyV3 6b 30
41Victory CrackHS 4b *561
42Victory GullyS 4a 258
 EMMA'S SLAB  
44Emma's SlabVS 4b *443
45Roger the Cabin BoyV5 1
46Technical GeniusV6 6c *21
47Technical Genius (sit start)f7A+ **2
48Technical Genius AreteV4 6a *15
49Emma's DilemmaS 4a *1123
50Emma RoydVS 4c 288
51Emma's TemptationHVD 4c *954
52Emma's DelightHS 4b *626
53DeludedVS 4c 227
54Emma's DelusionS 4a *392
55The ProwVS 4c *614
56ArtificialVD 50
57Oak GullyM 49
58Oak TowerVD 46
59Heather CornerD 33
60Heather Corner SlabM 31
 NELSON'S SLAB  
62The RiggingD 46
63The Bunk LadderHVD 4a 25
64Captain's PrerogativeHS 4b *699
65Captain's BunkHS 4b *628
66Telescope TunnelM *408
67Captain's CrawlM 112
68Porthole ButtressS 4a 264
69Porthole DirectVS 4c **902
70Porthole Super Super DirectVS 5a 18
71Victor HugoE4 6b *1
72Captain BirdseyeVS 4c 134
73Blind EyeS 4b 211
74The Proprioceptive Octetnone 20
75Admiral's Flushed HeadD 6
76Dead EyeHVS 6a 28
77Nelson's SlabHS 5a *564
78Nelson's Slab Indirect StartHS 4b 27
79Nelson's Slab Direct StartV3 6a 10
80Half NelsonVS 5a *228
81Left Ladder ChimneyVD 155
82SplicedS 4a 13
83Right Ladder ChimneyHVD 4a 110
 SAIL BUTTRESS  
85Midshipman / Plain SailingE2 6a ***70
86Nor'-easterHVS 5a 17
87Cold CompassE2 6b *1
88The KrakenE6 6c ***2
89Sail ButtressHS 4b **1468
90Roger the Cabin BoyVS 4c *91
91RatlineHVS 5b **408
92Amazing GraceE2 6a 3
93Sail ChimneyS 4a **861
94TopsailVS 4c **1986
95SpinnakerVS 5a 18
96Monument Chimney CrackVD *351
97Monument ChimneyD *566
 ORPHEUS WALL  
99Pillar WallS 4a 134
100The BowS 4a 208
101BuggerV1 5b 15
102Orpheus WallHVS 5c **392
103UnderworldV2 6a 15
104PeachesE4 6b ***17
105Peaches StartV3 6a 14
106CreamV5 6b 5
107PixieV1 5c 3
108Pixie (sit start)V5 6b 2
109Monument GullyVD *229
110Book SnifferE6 6b 1
111Monument Gully ButtressHVS 5b 268
112The KeelHVS 5b 117
113Naughty NauticalsE2 6b 11
114The BoomHVS 5a *2
 THE THREE SHIPS  
 VICTORY  
117EuryalusV0- 5a 157
118V for VictoryV0- 4a 205
119Prow LeftV0- 4b 195
120Prow RightV0- 4c 187
121Victor's LedgeVB 100
122Prow Right DynoV4 6b *14
123OrionV0 5b 101
124NeptuneV0- 4b 120
125The Victory TraverseV0- 4a 58
 DEFIANCE  
127FinisterreV0- 4c 161
128St VincentV0- 4c 168
129CalviV0 5a 137
130AboukirV0- 4c 152
131TenerifeV0- 4c 197
132Tenerife Right-HandV0 5b 87
133The Defiance TraverseV1 5a 49
 ROYAL SOVERIN  
135RoyalV0- 5a 143
136BilgeV0- 4b 132
137BuccaneerV0- 4c 102
138Buccaneer LeftV0- 54
139Press GangV1 5b 71
140Mini roofV2 6a *20
141OrlopV0 5b 110
142The Royal Soverin TraverseVB 43
 THE PROMENADE  
144Cutting CornersHVD 4a 3
145The PromenadeD **953
146Promenade DirectHVD 4a *641
147PromareteV3 6a 22
148The ChainS 4a *605
149Gritstone MegamixV5 6b *10
150HMS DaringV8 6c ***2
151HMS Daring Right HandV8+ 6c  
152Thing on a SpringV4 6b 45
153Hollybush Gully (Birchen)VD 4b *286
154Anchor TraverseHS 4b *164
155Floating AnarchyHVS 5a 38
156Powder Monkey ParadeS 4b **1261
157Oarsman Aretef6B+ *7
158OarsmanHVS 6b 16
159'Oar 'OuseV6 6c 1
160HornblowerE1 6b *64
161Obstructive PensionerV6 6c *4
162Jumpers for TrousersV10 7a  
163HangoverHVS 5b 59
164Admiral's ProgressD *398
165Polaris ExitD *189
 TRAFALGAR WALL  
167Bulbous BowHVS 5b 156
168HammockVS 5b 144
169Camperdown CrawlHS 4c **1486
170Camperdown Crawl Right Hand VariantVS 5c 32
171Barnacle BulgeHS 4c *770
172Trafalgar CrackVD 4a *1964
173Trafalgar WallS 4b **1802
174The Defiance VariationV0 5b 12
175Defiance CrackVD 4a 18
176The Long PromenadeVS 4b **37
 STOKER'S WALL  
178Bell Bottom AreteS 4a 233
179Sailor's CrackS 4b 224
180Sailor's ProblemVD 539
181Whatknot?S 4b 251
182Reef KnotS 4b *580
183Sheet Bend (aka Sheep Bend)S 4b 251
184Nautical CrackVD *822
185Heave HoS 4a 271
186Yo-Ho CrackVD *1176
187Rum WallVD 615
188Rum BreakVD 91
189Stoker's BreakVD 691
190Stoker's HoleHS 4a *821
191StokedS 4a 891
192Stoker's WallD *849
193Stoker's Wall TraverseVD 3c 23
194Stoker's Wall FlakeV0- 4a 26
195Crack right of Stoker's WallM 2c 30
196Chasing the DragonV9 7a  
 COPENHAGEN WALL  
198ScandiwallV0- 4b 6
199Copenhagen Wall TraverseS 4a 21
200Copenhagen Corner Left-Hand VariantVD 23
201Copenhagen CornerS 4b 342
202ScandiareteVS 5c *297
203Dane's DelightHS 5b *510
204Dane's DisgustHS 5b 300
205Carlsberg ExportV3 6a 18
206Copenhagen WallVS 5a *397
207The MermaidV9 7a 1
208MP3V8 6b 28
209Wonderful CopenhagenVS 5a *287
210Mast Gully RidgeVD *405
211Mast GullyM 215
 THE FO'C'SLE  
213Mast Gully WallVD 4b 112
214Mast Gully CrackHS 4b *177
215Mast Gully ButtressVS 5a *163
216Fo'c'sle WallVS 4c *311
217Fo'c'sle CrackS 4b *559
218Fo'c'sle ChimneyVD *223
219Fo'c'sle AreteVS 5b *61
220Fo'c'sle Arete (Direct Start)V1 5c 3
221BroadsideE2 6a 23
222LowsideV5 6b 4
223The BuccaneerV6 6b 1
224The BrigandV11 7a 2
225Cave GullyVD *84
 TAR'S WALL  
227Ta Very MuchHS 4c 88
228Tar's AreteD 4a *326
229Ta Ta For NowHS 5a 224
230Tar's CrackVD *392
231Tar's TeeterVS 4c *11
232Tar's WallHVD 4b 392
233SodomyV4 6a 18
234Tar's Traverse Left-Hand StartS 4c 25
235Tar's TraverseD 260
236Tar's ClimbM 151
237Tar's CornerM 164
238Tar's GullyD 311
239Pig HeadS 4c 225
240PigtailS 4a 269
241WavedanceHS 5b 103
242Prow WallM 205
243Prow GullyM 2c 24
244Prow Gully Prow Left-Hand VariationV0- 4c 2
245Prow Gully ProwHD 3a 22
 BARBETTE BUTTRESS  
247Barbette AreteV0- 4b 26
248Barbette CrackHS 4b 192
249Barbette WallS 4a 134
250Barbette ButtressS 4b *339
251Cannonball CrackS 3c 86
252Cannonball WallVD 350
253Cannonball Wall DirectVS 5a 52
254Gunner's GangwayD 251
255Lieutenant's LadderD 148
256Men UnitedV1 5b 20
257Isle of MenV2 5c *17
 GUNNER'S BUTTRESS  
259Midge's ManoeuvreE2 6a 8
260Middy's ManoeuvreHS 4c 114
261MidwayE1 6b 30
262Torpedo TubeHVD 4a 189
263FlatabackE1 6a 13
264Das BootVS 4c 18
265Gunner's GrooveD 246
266Seasick Arete left hand variationV0 5b 12
267Seasick AreteHS 5a *349
268Seasick SlabVD 4b 486
269Sick as a ParrotHD 4a 26
 WOODEN LEG WALL  
271Three Sheets to the WindHVD 4b 12
272Cabin FeverHVD 4a 78
273Wooden Leg Wall - Left CornerD 3b 21
274Spotted DickV3 6a 1
275Moby DickS 4a 149
276Old CodgerVS 4c *71
277Bold CodgerV3 6a 3
278Wooden Leg WallHVS 5c *48
279Owd GadgeeE1 6b 4
280Young GadflyHS 4b 12
281Wooden Leg Wall - Right CornerHD 3c 17
282Stoker's CrackS 4b 88
283Knick KnackE1 5b 34
284Stoker's SaunterVD 107
285Easy CornerM 39
286Matelot's MeanderS 4a 118
 KISMET BUTTRESS  
288Yard ArmHS 4c 30
289ImplosionHVS 5c 36
290ExplosionVS 5a *165
291Blast Hole WallVS 5b 116
292Cor Limey!HD 3a 18
293Powder KegHVD 4a 35
294RefuseV3 6a 5
295FuseVS 5a 197
296Gun-Cotton GrooveVD *394
297Cook's RibE1 5c *109
298Horatio's DirectVS 4c *127
299Horatio's HorrorHS 4a **387
300Heavy CruiserE1 6a  
301Nelson's NemesisVS 4b ***576
302Tom's AreteE5 6b 1
303Victory ViceVD *121
304For Queen and CountryVS 5a 37
305DeviceHVS 4c 139
306Gunpowder Gully AreteHVD 139
307Gunpowder GullyD 100
308Sea Dog SlabVD 120
309Sea Dog Slab DirectV0- 4b 9
310Sea Dog Slab IndirectV0- 5a 6
311Sailor's chuteHVD 4a 54
312They Think It's All OverVS 4b 5
313It Is NowVD 3c 12
314It Is Now DirectVD 4b 10
315Ta Ta Ta For Now HS 5a 2
316The Admiral's HeadD 5
317Master and Commander *V5 6b *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Lukem6

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There is a pay car park and a field across the road. pick which you prefer. wet days I'd say the 4 will be worth it.
Lukem6 - 27/Oct/13
Surprised yesterday to have to pay for the Car Park. 2.50 up to 4 hours, 4 all day. Free to NT or RSPB members.
D Berry - 27/Oct/13
The is a problem on the back of the royal sovereign boulder that starts lying down under the overhang pulls through to a slot from slopers on the lip of the overhang and then on to the top with a tiny mono on the top. Does anyone no the name or grade? Thanks
ceturnock - 09/Sep/13
There's a large block halfway up Gun-cotton Groove (VD) on Kismet Buttress which is quite loose. Avoiding using this probably puts it up a grade. Perhaps no longer a "good beginners' climb".
Howard J - 04/Aug/10
Just a quick update... Took a youth group from my Church there this weekend and had a fantastic time. We climbed to the right of the monument, using "On Peak Rock" as a guide. First of all, there's about 500m of delicious rock to the right of the monument, which are not covered by the guidebook :( We camped at the Eric Byne memorial site by the Robin Hood Inn. It's run by the really old couple again, after being run by the Peak authority for a while. It's 2.50 pppn, with toilets and fresh water. They now have a bin area which is new since I was last there (2003). Still no campfires, but where can you these days :( Still a superb crag, unbeatable for groups, families, beginners and first-time outdoor lead climbers.
rich in wales - 20/Oct/07
Victory Vice the V Diff on the Kismet Buttress has got bats living in it just a warning!!!
David Hollyer - 30/May/06
I love this crag - Gives us VS climbers the chance for great low grade soloing. Lots of lovely classically grit moves on a small scale.
Reds - 08/Mar/04
Don\'t miss the great bouldering opportunities to be had on the three large boulders on top of the crag. Each boulder has its name carved into the rock and is named after the Flagships of Nelson\'s fleet at the battle of Trafalgar.
Michael Hunt - 20/Jan/02
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 19/Jul/2013
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