Birchen Edge

Climbs 297 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A fine, natural edge in an elevated position overlooking the Derwent Valley. Excellent, quick-drying clean grit (up to 15m), climbable at all times of the year (occasionally sandy after rain). Large number of low grade routes make this a beginner's (and unfortunately Outdoor Pursuit Group's) favourite spot. Often busy but loads to choose from. Don't miss the classic VSs, The Crow's Nest, Top Sail, Sail Buttress, Trafalgar Wall and Nelson's Nemesis.

Access notes
From 100m above the Eric Byne car park at SK 279721 on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619) in <15 min.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Peak Gritstone East (2001), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 FAR LEFT 
2PortsideHS 4b
3The BrinyE1 5b
4StarboardsideHS 4b
5Bosun's NoseS 4c
6Bosun's CrackVD
7Bosun's WallS 4a
8The GangplankM *
 POOP DECK 
10Poop CrackVB 4a
11Handy CrackD
12Handy WallV0- 4b *
13Visitors OnlyHS 4a *
14Visitors WallV1 5b
15Howships LacunaeV5 *
16PDCLWV1 5b *
17All AboardD
18Saltheart FoamfollowerHVS 5b
19Poop Deck CrackS 4a *
20The PirateV6
 THE CROW'S NEST 
22Disabled SeamanV3 6a
23Cabin BoyV5 6b
24The CabinV4 6b
25LogV1 5c
26Sling Your HammockV1 ***
27Dan's AreteV6 6b
28Crow's FeetV2 5c
29Land Ho!S 4c
30The Crow's NestVS 4c **
31Scrim NetE1 6a
32Scrim Net StartV3 6a *
33Lookout AreteS 4a *
34The FunnelHD **
35Kiss Me HardyS *
36The DancerE1 5c
37Kiss Me Arse (Sit Start)V5 6b
38Kiss Me Arse (Standing Start)V3 6b
39Monocled MonoV5 6b
40Kiss Me SoftyV3 6b
41Victory CrackHS 4b **
42Victory GullyS 4a
 EMMA'S SLAB 
44Emma's SlabVS 4b
45Roger the Cabin BoyV5
46Technical GeniusV6 6b *
47Technical Genius (sit start)f7A+ **
48Technical Genius AreteV4 6a *
49Emma's DilemmaS 4b **
50Emma RoydVS 4c
51Emma's TemptationHVD 4c *
52Emma's DelightHS 4b *
53DeludedHS 4b
54Emma's DelusionS 4a *
55The ProwVS 4c
56ArtificialVD
57Oak GullyM
58Oak TowerVD
59Heather CornerD
60Heather Corner SlabM
 NELSON'S SLAB 
62The RiggingD
63The Bunk LadderHVD 4a
64Captain's PrerogativeHS 4b *
65Captain's BunkHS 4b *
66Telescope TunnelM
67Captain's CrawlM
68Porthole ButtressS 4a *
69Porthole DirectVS 4c **
70Porthole Super Super DirectVS 5a
71Victor HugoE4 6b *
72Captain BirdseyeVS 4c
73Blind EyeS 4b *
74The Proprioceptive Octetnone
75Admiral's Flushed HeadD
76Dead EyeHVS 6a
77Nelson's SlabHS 5a **
78Nelson's Slab Indirect StartHS 4b
79Nelson's Slab Direct StartV3 6a
80Half NelsonVS 5a *
81Left Ladder ChimneyVD
82SplicedS 4a
83Right Ladder ChimneyHVD 4a
 SAIL BUTTRESS 
85Midshipman / Plain SailingE2 6a ***
86Nor'-easterHVS 5a
87Cold CompassE2 6b *
88The KrakenE6 6c ***
89Sail ButtressHS 4b **
90Roger the Cabin BoyVS 4c *
91RatlineHVS 5b ***
92Amazing GraceE2 6a *
93Sail ChimneyS 4a ***
94TopsailVS 4c ***
95SpinnakerVS 5a
96Monument Chimney CrackVD *
97Monument ChimneyD **
 ORPHEUS WALL 
99Pillar WallS 4a
100The BowS 4a
101BuggerV1 5b
102Orpheus WallHVS 5c **
103UnderworldV2 6a
104PeachesE4 6b ***
105Peaches StartV3 6a
106CreamV5 6b
107PixieV1 5c
108Pixie (sit start)V5 6b
109Monument GullyVD **
110Book SnifferE6 6b
111Monument Gully ButtressHVS 5b
112The KeelHVS 5b
113Naughty NauticalsE2 6b
114The BoomHVS 5a *
 THE THREE SHIPS 
 VICTORY 
117EuryalusV0- 5a
118V for VictoryV0- 4a
119Prow LeftV0- 4b
120Prow RightV0- 4c
121Victor's LedgeVB
122Prow Right DynoV4 6b *
123OrionV0 5b
124NeptuneV0- 4b
125The Victory TraverseV0- 4a
 DEFIANCE 
127FinisterreV0- 4c
128St VincentV0- 4c
129CalviV0 5a
130AboukirV0- 4c
131TenerifeV0- 4c
132Tenerife Right-HandV0 5b
133The Defiance TraverseV1 5a
 ROYAL SOVERIN 
135RoyalV0- 5a
136BilgeV0- 4b
137BuccaneerV0- 4c
138Buccaneer LeftV0-
139Press GangV1 5b
140Mini roofV2 6a *
141OrlopV0 5b
142The Royal Soverin TraverseVB
 THE PROMENADE 
144Cutting CornersHVD 4a
145The PromenadeD **
146Promenade DirectHVD 4a *
147PromareteV3 6a
148The ChainS 4a *
149Gritstone MegamixV5 6b *
150HMS DaringV8 6c ***
151HMS Daring Right HandV8+ 6c
152Thing on a SpringV4 6b
153Hollybush Gully (Birchen)VD 4b *
154Anchor TraverseHS 4b *
155Floating AnarchyHVS 5a
156Powder Monkey ParadeS 4b ***
157Oarsman Aretef6B+ *
158OarsmanHVS 6b
159'Oar 'OuseV6 6c
160HornblowerE1 6b *
161Obstructive PensionerV6 6c *
162Jumpers for TrousersV10 7a
163HangoverHVS 5b
164Admiral's ProgressD *
165Polaris ExitD *
 TRAFALGAR WALL 
167Bulbous BowHVS 5b
168HammockVS 5b
169Camperdown CrawlHS 4c ***
170Camperdown Crawl Right Hand VariantVS 5c
171Barnacle BulgeHS 4c *
172Trafalgar CrackVD 4a **
173Trafalgar WallS 4b ***
174The Defiance VariationV0 5b
175Defiance CrackVD 4a
176The Long PromenadeVS 4b **
 STOKER'S WALL 
178Bell Bottom AreteS 4a
179Sailor's CrackS 4b
180Sailor's ProblemVD
181Whatknot?S 4b
182Reef KnotS 4b *
183Sheet Bend (aka Sheep Bend)S 4b
184Nautical CrackVD *
185Heave HoS 4a
186Yo-Ho CrackVD *
187Rum WallVD
188Rum BreakVD
189Stoker's BreakVD
190Stoker's HoleHS 4a *
191StokedS 4a
192Stoker's WallD *
193Stoker's Wall TraverseVD 3c
194Stoker's Wall FlakeV0- 4a
195Crack right of Stoker's WallM 2c
196Chasing the DragonV9 7a
 COPENHAGEN WALL 
198ScandiwallV0- 4b
199Copenhagen Wall TraverseS 4a
200Copenhagen Corner Left-Hand VariantVD
201Copenhagen CornerS 4b
202ScandiareteVS 5c *
203Dane's DelightHS 5b
204Dane's DisgustHS 5b
205Carlsberg ExportV3 6a
206Copenhagen WallVS 5a *
207The MermaidV9 7a
208MP3V8 6b
209Wonderful CopenhagenVS 5a *
210Mast Gully RidgeVD *
211Mast GullyM
 THE FO'C'SLE 
213Mast Gully WallVD 4b
214Mast Gully CrackHS 4b *
215Mast Gully ButtressVS 5a **
216Fo'c'sle WallVS 4c *
217Fo'c'sle CrackS 4b **
218Fo'c'sle ChimneyVD *
219Fo'c'sle AreteVS 5b *
220Fo'c'sle Arete (Direct Start)V1 5c
221BroadsideE2 6a
222LowsideV5 6b
223The BuccaneerV6 6b
224The BrigandV11 7a
225Cave GullyVD *
 TAR'S WALL 
227Ta Very MuchHS 4c
228Tar's AreteVD 4a *
229Ta Ta For NowHS 5a
230Tar's CrackVD *
231Tar's TeeterVS 4c *
232Tar's WallHVD 4b
233SodomyV4 6a
234Tar's Traverse Left-Hand StartS 4c
235Tar's TraverseD
236Tar's ClimbM
237Tar's CornerD
238Tar's GullyM
239Pig HeadS 4c
240PigtailS 4a
241WavedanceHS 5b
242Prow WallM
243Prow GullyM 2c
244Prow Gully Prow Left-Hand VariationV0- 4c
245Prow Gully ProwHD 3a
 BARBETTE BUTTRESS 
247Barbette AreteV0- 4b
248Barbette CrackHS 4b
249Barbette WallS 4a
250Barbette ButtressS 4b *
251Cannonball CrackS 3c
252Cannonball WallVD
253Cannonball Wall DirectVS 5a
254Gunner's GangwayD
255Lieutenant's LadderD
256Men UnitedV1 5b
257Isle of MenV2 5c *
 GUNNER'S BUTTRESS 
259Midge's ManoeuvreE2 6a
260Middy's ManoeuvreHS 4c
261MidwayE1 6b
262Torpedo TubeHVD 4a
263FlatabackE1 6a
264Das BootVS 4c
265Gunner's GrooveD
266Seasick Arete left hand variationV0 5b
267Seasick AreteHS 5a *
268Seasick SlabVD 4b
269Sick as a ParrotHD 4a
 WOODEN LEG WALL 
271Three Sheets to the WindHVD 4b
272Cabin FeverHVD 4a
273Wooden Leg Wall - Left CornerD 3b
274Spotted DickV3 6a
275Moby DickS 4a
276Old CodgerVS 4c *
277Bold CodgerV3 6a
278Wooden Leg WallHVS 5c *
279Owd GadgeeE1 6b
280Young GadflyHS 4b
281Wooden Leg Wall - Right CornerHD 3c
282Stoker's CrackS 4b
283Knick KnackE1 5b
284Stoker's SaunterVD
285Easy CornerM
286Matelot's MeanderS 4a *
 KISMET BUTTRESS 
288Yard ArmHS 4c
289ImplosionHVS 5c
290ExplosionVS 5b *
291Blast Hole WallVS 5b
292Cor Limey!HD 3a
293Powder KegHVD 4a
294RefuseV3 6a
295FuseVS 5a *
296Gun-Cotton GrooveVD *
297Cook's RibE1 5c *
298Horatio's DirectVS 4c *
299Horatio's HorrorHS 4a **
300Heavy CruiserE1 6a
301Nelson's NemesisVS 4b ***
302Tom's AreteE5 6b
303Victory ViceVD *
304For Queen and CountryVS 4b
305DeviceVS 4c *
306Gunpowder Gully AreteHVD
307Gunpowder GullyD *
308Sea Dog SlabVD
309Sea Dog Slab DirectV0- 4b
310Sea Dog Slab IndirectV0- 5a
311Sailor's chuteHVD 4a
312They Think It's All OverVS 4b
313It Is NowVD 3c
314It Is Now DirectVD 4b
315The Chain Direct StartV0 5a
316Ta Ta Ta For Now HS 5a
317The Admiral's Head *D 3b
318Rum Wall Direct *HVD
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Lukem6

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There is a pay car park and a field across the road. pick which you prefer. wet days I'd say the 4 will be worth it.
Lukem6 - 27/Oct/13
Surprised yesterday to have to pay for the Car Park. 2.50 up to 4 hours, 4 all day. Free to NT or RSPB members.
D Berry - 27/Oct/13
The is a problem on the back of the royal sovereign boulder that starts lying down under the overhang pulls through to a slot from slopers on the lip of the overhang and then on to the top with a tiny mono on the top. Does anyone no the name or grade? Thanks
ceturnock - 09/Sep/13
There's a large block halfway up Gun-cotton Groove (VD) on Kismet Buttress which is quite loose. Avoiding using this probably puts it up a grade. Perhaps no longer a "good beginners' climb".
Howard J - 04/Aug/10
Just a quick update... Took a youth group from my Church there this weekend and had a fantastic time. We climbed to the right of the monument, using "On Peak Rock" as a guide. First of all, there's about 500m of delicious rock to the right of the monument, which are not covered by the guidebook :( We camped at the Eric Byne memorial site by the Robin Hood Inn. It's run by the really old couple again, after being run by the Peak authority for a while. It's 2.50 pppn, with toilets and fresh water. They now have a bin area which is new since I was last there (2003). Still no campfires, but where can you these days :( Still a superb crag, unbeatable for groups, families, beginners and first-time outdoor lead climbers.
rich in wales - 20/Oct/07
Victory Vice the V Diff on the Kismet Buttress has got bats living in it just a warning!!!
David Hollyer - 30/May/06
I love this crag - Gives us VS climbers the chance for great low grade soloing. Lots of lovely classically grit moves on a small scale.
Reds - 08/Mar/04
Don\'t miss the great bouldering opportunities to be had on the three large boulders on top of the crag. Each boulder has its name carved into the rock and is named after the Flagships of Nelson\'s fleet at the battle of Trafalgar.
Michael Hunt - 20/Jan/02
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 19/Jul/2013

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