Birchen Edge

Climbs 297 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A fine, natural edge in an elevated position overlooking the Derwent Valley. Excellent, quick-drying clean grit (up to 15m), climbable at all times of the year (occasionally sandy after rain). Large number of low grade routes make this a beginner's (and unfortunately Outdoor Pursuit Group's) favourite spot. Often busy but loads to choose from. Don't miss the classic VSs, The Crow's Nest, Top Sail, Sail Buttress, Trafalgar Wall and Nelson's Nemesis.

Access notes
From 100m above the Eric Byne car park at SK 279721 on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619) in <15 min.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Peak Gritstone East (2001), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 FAR LEFT  
2PortsideHS 4b 10
3The BrinyE1 5b 4
4StarboardsideHS 4b 12
5Bosun's NoseS 4c 125
6Bosun's CrackVD 211
7Bosun's WallS 4a 177
8The GangplankM *721
 POOP DECK  
10Poop CrackVB 4a 55
11Handy CrackD 505
12Handy WallV0- 4b *27
13Visitors OnlyHS 4a *407
14Visitors WallV1 5b 13
15Howships LacunaeV5 *2
16PDCLWV1 5b *1
17All AboardD 400
18Saltheart FoamfollowerHVS 5b 72
19Poop Deck CrackS 4a *272
20The PirateV6 2
 THE CROW'S NEST  
22Disabled SeamanV3 6a 23
23Cabin BoyV5 6b 43
24The CabinV4 6b 60
25LogV1 5c 26
26Sling Your HammockV1 ***16
27Dan's AreteV6 6b 11
28Crow's FeetV2 5c 8
29Land Ho!S 4c 146
30The Crow's NestVS 4c **753
31Scrim NetE1 6a 69
32Scrim Net StartV3 6a *31
33Lookout AreteS 4a *199
34The FunnelHD **450
35Kiss Me HardyS *487
36The DancerE1 5c 12
37Kiss Me Arse (Sit Start)V5 6b 34
38Kiss Me Arse (Standing Start)V3 6b 29
39Monocled MonoV5 6b 19
40Kiss Me SoftyV3 6b 30
41Victory CrackHS 4b **553
42Victory GullyS 4a 255
 EMMA'S SLAB  
44Emma's SlabVS 4b 437
45Roger the Cabin BoyV5  
46Technical GeniusV6 6b *20
47Technical Genius (sit start)f7A+ **2
48Technical Genius AreteV4 6a *15
49Emma's DilemmaS 4b **1113
50Emma RoydVS 4c 284
51Emma's TemptationHVD 4c *946
52Emma's DelightHS 4b *618
53DeludedHS 4b 222
54Emma's DelusionS 4a *387
55The ProwVS 4c 609
56ArtificialVD 50
57Oak GullyM 48
58Oak TowerVD 46
59Heather CornerD 33
60Heather Corner SlabM 30
 NELSON'S SLAB  
62The RiggingD 45
63The Bunk LadderHVD 4a 24
64Captain's PrerogativeHS 4b *690
65Captain's BunkHS 4b *618
66Telescope TunnelM 398
67Captain's CrawlM 110
68Porthole ButtressS 4a *261
69Porthole DirectVS 4c **894
70Porthole Super Super DirectVS 5a 18
71Victor HugoE4 6b *1
72Captain BirdseyeVS 4c 130
73Blind EyeS 4b *208
74The Proprioceptive Octetnone 19
75Admiral's Flushed HeadD 6
76Dead EyeHVS 6a 25
77Nelson's SlabHS 5a **558
78Nelson's Slab Indirect StartHS 4b 27
79Nelson's Slab Direct StartV3 6a 10
80Half NelsonVS 5a *228
81Left Ladder ChimneyVD 153
82SplicedS 4a 13
83Right Ladder ChimneyHVD 4a 109
 SAIL BUTTRESS  
85Midshipman / Plain SailingE2 6a ***70
86Nor'-easterHVS 5a 17
87Cold CompassE2 6b *1
88The KrakenE6 6c ***2
89Sail ButtressHS 4b **1452
90Roger the Cabin BoyVS 4c *89
91RatlineHVS 5b ***403
92Amazing GraceE2 6a *3
93Sail ChimneyS 4a ***852
94TopsailVS 4c ***1965
95SpinnakerVS 5a 17
96Monument Chimney CrackVD *342
97Monument ChimneyD **556
 ORPHEUS WALL  
99Pillar WallS 4a 130
100The BowS 4a 207
101BuggerV1 5b 15
102Orpheus WallHVS 5c **387
103UnderworldV2 6a 15
104PeachesE4 6b ***17
105Peaches StartV3 6a 14
106CreamV5 6b 5
107PixieV1 5c 3
108Pixie (sit start)V5 6b 2
109Monument GullyVD **224
110Book SnifferE6 6b 1
111Monument Gully ButtressHVS 5b 265
112The KeelHVS 5b 115
113Naughty NauticalsE2 6b 11
114The BoomHVS 5a *2
 THE THREE SHIPS  
 VICTORY  
117EuryalusV0- 5a 150
118V for VictoryV0- 4a 197
119Prow LeftV0- 4b 186
120Prow RightV0- 4c 178
121Victor's LedgeVB 94
122Prow Right DynoV4 6b *11
123OrionV0 5b 97
124NeptuneV0- 4b 116
125The Victory TraverseV0- 4a 55
 DEFIANCE  
127FinisterreV0- 4c 157
128St VincentV0- 4c 162
129CalviV0 5a 131
130AboukirV0- 4c 144
131TenerifeV0- 4c 188
132Tenerife Right-HandV0 5b 81
133The Defiance TraverseV1 5a 46
 ROYAL SOVERIN  
135RoyalV0- 5a 136
136BilgeV0- 4b 125
137BuccaneerV0- 4c 96
138Buccaneer LeftV0- 51
139Press GangV1 5b 67
140Mini roofV2 6a *16
141OrlopV0 5b 104
142The Royal Soverin TraverseVB 40
 THE PROMENADE  
144Cutting CornersHVD 4a 3
145The PromenadeD **939
146Promenade DirectHVD 4a *632
147PromareteV3 6a 21
148The ChainS 4a *595
149Gritstone MegamixV5 6b *10
150HMS DaringV8 6c ***2
151HMS Daring Right HandV8+ 6c  
152Thing on a SpringV4 6b 41
153Hollybush Gully (Birchen)VD 4b *280
154Anchor TraverseHS 4b *158
155Floating AnarchyHVS 5a 38
156Powder Monkey ParadeS 4b ***1246
157Oarsman Aretef6B+ *6
158OarsmanHVS 6b 16
159'Oar 'OuseV6 6c 1
160HornblowerE1 6b *59
161Obstructive PensionerV6 6c *4
162Jumpers for TrousersV10 7a  
163HangoverHVS 5b 58
164Admiral's ProgressD *382
165Polaris ExitD *188
 TRAFALGAR WALL  
167Bulbous BowHVS 5b 153
168HammockVS 5b 137
169Camperdown CrawlHS 4c ***1469
170Camperdown Crawl Right Hand VariantVS 5c 31
171Barnacle BulgeHS 4c *760
172Trafalgar CrackVD 4a **1925
173Trafalgar WallS 4b ***1778
174The Defiance VariationV0 5b 12
175Defiance CrackVD 4a 17
176The Long PromenadeVS 4b **36
 STOKER'S WALL  
178Bell Bottom AreteS 4a 230
179Sailor's CrackS 4b 222
180Sailor's ProblemVD 534
181Whatknot?S 4b 244
182Reef KnotS 4b *573
183Sheet Bend (aka Sheep Bend)S 4b 247
184Nautical CrackVD *808
185Heave HoS 4a 266
186Yo-Ho CrackVD *1158
187Rum WallVD 609
188Rum BreakVD 90
189Stoker's BreakVD 681
190Stoker's HoleHS 4a *815
191StokedS 4a 881
192Stoker's WallD *841
193Stoker's Wall TraverseVD 3c 23
194Stoker's Wall FlakeV0- 4a 25
195Crack right of Stoker's WallM 2c 28
196Chasing the DragonV9 7a  
 COPENHAGEN WALL  
198ScandiwallV0- 4b 4
199Copenhagen Wall TraverseS 4a 20
200Copenhagen Corner Left-Hand VariantVD 23
201Copenhagen CornerS 4b 336
202ScandiareteVS 5c *292
203Dane's DelightHS 5b 500
204Dane's DisgustHS 5b 296
205Carlsberg ExportV3 6a 17
206Copenhagen WallVS 5a *393
207The MermaidV9 7a 1
208MP3V8 6b 25
209Wonderful CopenhagenVS 5a *284
210Mast Gully RidgeVD *402
211Mast GullyM 209
 THE FO'C'SLE  
213Mast Gully WallVD 4b 112
214Mast Gully CrackHS 4b *174
215Mast Gully ButtressVS 5a **161
216Fo'c'sle WallVS 4c *307
217Fo'c'sle CrackS 4b **552
218Fo'c'sle ChimneyVD *220
219Fo'c'sle AreteVS 5b *61
220Fo'c'sle Arete (Direct Start)V1 5c 3
221BroadsideE2 6a 23
222LowsideV5 6b 4
223The BuccaneerV6 6b 1
224The BrigandV11 7a 2
225Cave GullyVD *82
 TAR'S WALL  
227Ta Very MuchHS 4c 87
228Tar's AreteVD 4a *322
229Ta Ta For NowHS 5a 223
230Tar's CrackVD *389
231Tar's TeeterVS 4c *11
232Tar's WallHVD 4b 389
233SodomyV4 6a 17
234Tar's Traverse Left-Hand StartS 4c 25
235Tar's TraverseD 258
236Tar's ClimbM 146
237Tar's CornerD 164
238Tar's GullyM 306
239Pig HeadS 4c 223
240PigtailS 4a 266
241WavedanceHS 5b 103
242Prow WallM 199
243Prow GullyM 2c 23
244Prow Gully Prow Left-Hand VariationV0- 4c 2
245Prow Gully ProwHD 3a 22
 BARBETTE BUTTRESS  
247Barbette AreteV0- 4b 24
248Barbette CrackHS 4b 191
249Barbette WallS 4a 132
250Barbette ButtressS 4b *334
251Cannonball CrackS 3c 81
252Cannonball WallVD 344
253Cannonball Wall DirectVS 5a 51
254Gunner's GangwayD 247
255Lieutenant's LadderD 146
256Men UnitedV1 5b 19
257Isle of MenV2 5c *16
 GUNNER'S BUTTRESS  
259Midge's ManoeuvreE2 6a 7
260Middy's ManoeuvreHS 4c 111
261MidwayE1 6b 30
262Torpedo TubeHVD 4a 184
263FlatabackE1 6a 12
264Das BootVS 4c 18
265Gunner's GrooveD 240
266Seasick Arete left hand variationV0 5b 12
267Seasick AreteHS 5a *342
268Seasick SlabVD 4b 479
269Sick as a ParrotHD 4a 24
 WOODEN LEG WALL  
271Three Sheets to the WindHVD 4b 12
272Cabin FeverHVD 4a 75
273Wooden Leg Wall - Left CornerD 3b 21
274Spotted DickV3 6a 1
275Moby DickS 4a 143
276Old CodgerVS 4c *68
277Bold CodgerV3 6a 2
278Wooden Leg WallHVS 5c *47
279Owd GadgeeE1 6b 4
280Young GadflyHS 4b 12
281Wooden Leg Wall - Right CornerHD 3c 17
282Stoker's CrackS 4b 85
283Knick KnackE1 5b 31
284Stoker's SaunterVD 102
285Easy CornerM 34
286Matelot's MeanderS 4a *110
 KISMET BUTTRESS  
288Yard ArmHS 4c 28
289ImplosionHVS 5c 33
290ExplosionVS 5b *162
291Blast Hole WallVS 5b 111
292Cor Limey!HD 3a 18
293Powder KegHVD 4a 34
294RefuseV3 6a 4
295FuseVS 5a *194
296Gun-Cotton GrooveVD *385
297Cook's RibE1 5c *108
298Horatio's DirectVS 4c *125
299Horatio's HorrorHS 4a **384
300Heavy CruiserE1 6a  
301Nelson's NemesisVS 4b ***573
302Tom's AreteE5 6b 1
303Victory ViceVD *116
304For Queen and CountryVS 4b 37
305DeviceVS 4c *138
306Gunpowder Gully AreteHVD 134
307Gunpowder GullyD *96
308Sea Dog SlabVD 114
309Sea Dog Slab DirectV0- 4b 7
310Sea Dog Slab IndirectV0- 5a 6
311Sailor's chuteHVD 4a 50
312They Think It's All OverVS 4b 5
313It Is NowVD 3c 12
314It Is Now DirectVD 4b 9
315The Chain Direct StartV0 5a 4
316Ta Ta Ta For Now HS 5a 2
317The Admiral's Head *D 3b 4
318Rum Wall Direct *HVD 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Lukem6

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There is a pay car park and a field across the road. pick which you prefer. wet days I'd say the 4 will be worth it.
Lukem6 - 27/Oct/13
Surprised yesterday to have to pay for the Car Park. 2.50 up to 4 hours, 4 all day. Free to NT or RSPB members.
D Berry - 27/Oct/13
The is a problem on the back of the royal sovereign boulder that starts lying down under the overhang pulls through to a slot from slopers on the lip of the overhang and then on to the top with a tiny mono on the top. Does anyone no the name or grade? Thanks
ceturnock - 09/Sep/13
There's a large block halfway up Gun-cotton Groove (VD) on Kismet Buttress which is quite loose. Avoiding using this probably puts it up a grade. Perhaps no longer a "good beginners' climb".
Howard J - 04/Aug/10
Just a quick update... Took a youth group from my Church there this weekend and had a fantastic time. We climbed to the right of the monument, using "On Peak Rock" as a guide. First of all, there's about 500m of delicious rock to the right of the monument, which are not covered by the guidebook :( We camped at the Eric Byne memorial site by the Robin Hood Inn. It's run by the really old couple again, after being run by the Peak authority for a while. It's 2.50 pppn, with toilets and fresh water. They now have a bin area which is new since I was last there (2003). Still no campfires, but where can you these days :( Still a superb crag, unbeatable for groups, families, beginners and first-time outdoor lead climbers.
rich in wales - 20/Oct/07
Victory Vice the V Diff on the Kismet Buttress has got bats living in it just a warning!!!
David Hollyer - 30/May/06
I love this crag - Gives us VS climbers the chance for great low grade soloing. Lots of lovely classically grit moves on a small scale.
Reds - 08/Mar/04
Don\'t miss the great bouldering opportunities to be had on the three large boulders on top of the crag. Each boulder has its name carved into the rock and is named after the Flagships of Nelson\'s fleet at the battle of Trafalgar.
Michael Hunt - 20/Jan/02
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 19/Jul/2013
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