Birchen Edge

Climbs 299 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A fine, natural edge in an elevated position overlooking the Derwent Valley. Excellent, quick-drying clean grit (up to 15m), climbable at all times of the year (occasionally sandy after rain). Large number of low grade routes make this a beginner's (and unfortunately Outdoor Pursuit Group's) favourite spot. Often busy but loads to choose from. Don't miss the classic VSs, The Crow's Nest, Top Sail, Sail Buttress, Trafalgar Wall and Nelson's Nemesis.

Access notes
From 100m above the Eric Byne car park at SK 279721 on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619) in <15 min.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Eastern Grit (2015), Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Eastern Grit (2006) (2006), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 FAR LEFT  
2PortsideHS 4b 12
3The BrinyE1 5b 4
4StarboardsideHS 4b 14
5Bosun's NoseS 4c 135
6Bosun's CrackVD 225
7Bosun's WallHVD 4a 190
8The GangplankM *752
 POOP DECK  
10Poop Crackf3 60
11Handy CrackD 519
12Handy WallV0- 4b *29
13Visitors OnlyHS 4a *415
14Visitors WallV1 5b 13
15Howships LacunaeV5 *3
16PDCLWV1 5b *2
17All AboardD 408
18Saltheart FoamfollowerHVS 5c *74
19Poop Deck CrackS 4a 281
20The PirateE2 6b 3
 THE CROW'S NEST  
22Disabled SeamanV3 6a 24
23Cabin BoyV5 6b 49
24The CabinV4 6b 63
25LogV1 5c 27
26Sling Your HammockV1 ***17
27Dan's Aretef6C *15
28Crow's Feetf5+ *9
29Land Ho!HS 4c *150
30The Crow's NestVS 4c **782
31Scrim Netf6A *72
32Scrim Net StartV3 6a *31
33Lookout AreteS 4a *207
34The FunnelD *460
35Kiss Me HardyHVD 4a *507
36The DancerE1 5c 12
37Kiss Me Arse (Sit Start)V5 6b 37
38Kiss Me Arse (Standing Start)f6C *31
39Monocled Monof6C 20
40Kiss Me Softyf6B *30
41Victory CrackHS 4b *578
42Victory GullyS 4a *269
 EMMA'S SLAB  
44Emma's SlabVS 4b *458
45Roger the Cabin Boyf6C *2
46Technical Geniusf7A *21
47Technical Genius (sit start)f7A+ **3
48Technical Genius AreteV4 6a *15
49Emma's DilemmaS 4a *1159
50Emma RoydVS 4c *298
51Emma's TemptationHVD 4c *989
52Emma's DelightHS 4b *650
53DeludedVS 4c *234
54Emma's DelusionS 4a *404
55The ProwVS 4c *633
56ArtificialVD 52
57Oak GullyM 50
58Oak TowerVD 48
59Heather CornerD 34
60Heather Corner SlabM 33
 NELSON'S SLAB  
62The RiggingD 48
63The Bunk LadderS 4a 27
64Captain's PrerogativeHS 4b *717
65Captain's BunkHS 4b *648
66Telescope TunnelM **420
67Captain's CrawlM 117
68Porthole ButtressS 4a *269
69Porthole DirectVS 4c **922
70Porthole Super Super DirectVS 5a 18
71Victor HugoE4 6b *1
72Captain BirdseyeVS 4c 137
73Blind EyeS 4b *216
74The Proprioceptive Octetnone 20
75Admiral's Flushed HeadD 6
76Dead EyeHVS 6a 28
77Nelson's SlabHS 5a *585
78Nelson's Slab Indirect StartHS 4b 27
79Nelson's Slab Direct Startf6A *10
80Half NelsonVS 5a *231
81Left Ladder ChimneyVD 158
82SplicedS 4a 14
83Right Ladder ChimneyHVD 4a 111
 SAIL BUTTRESS  
85Midshipman / Plain SailingE2 6a ***69
86Nor'-easterHVS 5a 17
87Cold CompassE2 6b *1
88The KrakenE6 6c ***2
89Sail ButtressHS 4b **1499
90Roger the Cabin BoyVS 4c *92
91RatlineHVS 5b **417
92Amazing GraceE2 6a 3
93Sail ChimneyS 4a **882
94TopsailVS 4c **2036
95Marie's Gone to CanadaE1 5c 1
96SpinnakerVS 5a 20
97Monument Chimney CrackVD *361
98Monument ChimneyD *574
 ORPHEUS WALL  
100Pillar WallS 4a 137
101The BowS 4a *213
102BuggerV1 5b 15
103Orpheus WallHVS 5c **401
104UnderworldV2 6a 16
105PeachesE4 6b ***19
106Peaches StartV3 6a 14
107CreamV5 6b 5
108PixieV1 5c 3
109Pixie (sit start)V5 6b 2
110Monument GullyVD *233
111Book SnifferE6 6b 1
112Monument Gully ButtressHVS 5b *272
113The KeelHVS 5b *117
114Naughty NauticalsE2 6b 11
115The BoomHVS 5a *2
 THE THREE SHIPS  
 VICTORY  
118EuryalusV0- 5a 163
119V for VictoryV0- 4a 213
120Prow LeftV0- 4b 203
121Prow RightV0- 4c 196
122Victor's LedgeVB 108
123Prow Right DynoV4 6b *17
124OrionV0 5b 106
125NeptuneV0- 4b 125
126The Victory TraverseV0- 4a 60
 DEFIANCE  
128FinisterreV0- 4c 169
129St VincentV0- 4c 177
130CalviV0 5a 143
131AboukirV0- 4c 159
132TenerifeV0- 4c 208
133Tenerife Right-HandV0 5b 89
134The Defiance TraverseV1 5a 51
 ROYAL SOVERIN  
136RoyalV0- 5a 152
137BilgeV0- 4b 140
138BuccaneerV0- 4c 107
139Buccaneer LeftV0- 55
140Press GangV1 5b 73
141Mini roofV2 6a *21
142OrlopV0 5b 112
143The Royal Soverin TraverseVB 46
 THE PROMENADE TO TRAFALGAR WALL  
145Cutting CornersS 4a 4
146The PromenadeD **977
147Promenade DirectHVD 4a *661
148Promaretef6A *30
149The ChainS 4a *626
150Gritstone Megamixf7A *11
151HMS Daringf7B+ *2
152HMS Daring Right HandV8+ 6c  
153Thing on a Springf7A *50
154Hollybush Gully (Birchen)VD 4b *292
155Anchor TraverseHS 4b *167
156Floating AnarchyHVS 5a 38
157Powder Monkey ParadeS 4b **1281
158Oarsman Aretef6B+ *7
159Oarsmanf6B+ 16
160'Oar 'Ousef7A 2
161Hornblowerf6C **64
162Obstructive Pensionerf7A+ *5
163Jumpers for Trousersf7C+ * 
164HangoverHVS 5b 59
165Admiral's ProgressD *403
166Polaris ExitD *193
 TRAFALGAR WALL  
168Bulbous Bowf5+ 158
169HammockVS 5b *145
170Camperdown CrawlHS 4c **1518
171Camperdown Crawl Right Hand VariantVS 5c 34
172Barnacle BulgeHS 4c *792
173Trafalgar CrackVD 4a *2007
174Trafalgar WallS 4b **1836
175The Defiance VariationV0 5b 13
176Defiance CrackVD 4a 19
177The Long PromenadeHS 4b *37
 STOKER'S WALL  
179Bell Bottom AreteS 4a 235
180Sailor's CrackS 4b *229
181Sailor's ProblemVD 550
182Whatknot?S 4b *259
183Reef KnotS 4b *594
184Sheet Bend (aka Sheep Bend)S 4b 259
185Nautical CrackVD *844
186Heave HoS 4a 281
187Yo-Ho CrackVD *1213
188Rum WallVD 637
189Rum BreakVD 96
190Stoker's BreakVD 713
191Stoker's HoleHS 4a *843
192StokedS 4a *916
193Stoker's WallD *874
194Stoker's Wall TraverseVD 3c 25
195Stoker's Wall FlakeV0- 4a 29
196Crack right of Stoker's WallM 2c 31
197Chasing the DragonV9 7a  
 COPENHAGEN WALL  
199Scandiwallf3+ 8
200Copenhagen Wall TraverseS 4a 22
201Copenhagen Corner Left-Hand VariantVD 24
202Copenhagen Cornerf3+ 349
203Scandiaretef5+ *305
204Dane's Delightf5 *518
205Dane's Disgustf5 *304
206Carlsberg Exportf6B 18
207Copenhagen WallVS 5a *406
208Mermaidf7C *1
209MP3V8 6b 30
210Wonderful Copenhagenf4+ *289
211Mast Gully RidgeVD *411
212Mast GullyM 218
 THE FO'C'SLE  
214Mast Gully WallVD 4b 116
215Mast Gully CrackHS 4b *182
216Mast Gully ButtressVS 5a *167
217Fo'c'sle WallVS 4c *315
218Fo'c'sle CrackS 4b *581
219Fo'c'sle ChimneyVD *230
220Fo'c'sle AreteVS 5b *62
221Fo'c'sle Arete (Direct Start)V1 5c 3
222Broadsidef6A+ *23
223LowsideV5 6b 5
224The Buccaneerf7A *1
225The Brigandf7C+ *2
226Cave GullyVD *84
 TAR'S WALL  
228Ta Very MuchHS 4c 89
229Tar's AreteVD 4a *330
230Ta Ta For NowHS 5a 229
231Tar's CrackVD *402
232Tar's TeeterVS 4c *11
233Tar's WallHVD 4b 402
234Sodomyf6C **20
235Tar's Traverse Left-Hand StartS 4c 26
236Tar's TraverseD 263
237Tar's ClimbM 153
238Tar's CornerM 168
239Tar's GullyD 319
240Pig HeadS 4c 233
241PigtailS 4a 273
242Wavedancef4+ 103
243Prow WallM 208
244Prow GullyM 26
245Prow Gully Prow Left-Hand VariationV0- 4c 3
246Prow Gully ProwHD 3a 24
 BARBETTE BUTTRESS  
248Barbette AreteS 4b 26
249Barbette CrackHS 4b *194
250Barbette WallS 4a 134
251Barbette ButtressS 4b *345
252Cannonball CrackS 3c 87
253Cannonball WallVD *359
254Cannonball Wall DirectVS 5a 52
255Gunner's GangwayD 258
256Lieutenant's LadderD 152
257Men UnitedV1 5b 21
258Isle of MenV2 5c *17
 SEASICK SLAB  
260Midge's ManoeuvreE2 6a 8
261Middy's ManoeuvreHS 4c *115
262MidwayE1 6b 30
263Torpedo TubeHVD 4a *193
264FlatabackE1 6a 13
265Das BootVS 5a 19
266Gunner's GrooveD 249
267Seasick Arete left hand variationV0 5b 14
268Seasick Aretef4+ *356
269Seasick Slabf3+ 495
270Sick as a ParrotHD 4a 27
 WOODEN LEG WALL  
272Three Sheets to the WindHVD 4b 14
273Cabin FeverHVD 4a 78
274Wooden Leg Wall - Left CornerD 3b 22
275Spotted DickV3 6a 1
276Moby DickS 4a 150
277Old CodgerVS 4c *72
278Bold CodgerE2 6a 3
279Wooden Leg WallHVS 5c *49
280Owd GadgeeE2 6a 4
281Young GadflyHS 4b 13
282Wooden Leg Wall - Right CornerHD 3c 20
283Stoker's CrackS 4b 88
284Knick KnackE1 5b 34
285Stoker's SaunterVD 107
286Easy CornerM 39
287Matelot's MeanderS 4a 118
 KISMET BUTTRESS  
289Yard ArmHS 4c 30
290Implosionf5+ 36
291Explosionf4+ *167
292Blast Hole Wallf5 *117
293Cor Limey!VD 18
294Powder KegS 4a 35
295RefuseV3 6a 5
296FuseVS 5a *201
297Gun-Cotton GrooveVD *398
298Cook's RibE1 5c *115
299Horatio's DirectVS 4c *128
300Horatio's HorrorHS 4a **400
301Heavy CruiserE1 6a  
302Nelson's NemesisVS 4b ***592
303Tom's AreteE5 6b 1
304Victory ViceVD *121
305For Queen and CountryHVS 4c 38
306DeviceHVS 4c 141
307Gunpowder Gully AreteS 3c 142
308Gunpowder GullyD 101
309Sea Dog SlabVD 121
310Sea Dog Slab DirectV0- 4b 9
311Sea Dog Slab IndirectV0- 5a 7
312Sailor's chuteHVD 4a 57
313They Think It's All OverVS 4b 5
314It Is NowVD 3c 12
315It Is Now DirectVD 4b 10
316Ta Ta Ta For Now HS 5a 2
317The Admiral's HeadD 5
318Master and Commander *V5 6b *1
319Cabin Boy Variation *f6C *1
320Seasick Steve *f6A+ *4
 ROUTES ADDED FROM ROCKFAX BOOK  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Lukem6

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There is a pay car park and a field across the road. pick which you prefer. wet days I'd say the 4 will be worth it.
Lukem6 - 27/Oct/13
Surprised yesterday to have to pay for the Car Park. 2.50 up to 4 hours, 4 all day. Free to NT or RSPB members.
D Berry - 27/Oct/13
The is a problem on the back of the royal sovereign boulder that starts lying down under the overhang pulls through to a slot from slopers on the lip of the overhang and then on to the top with a tiny mono on the top. Does anyone no the name or grade? Thanks
ceturnock - 09/Sep/13
There's a large block halfway up Gun-cotton Groove (VD) on Kismet Buttress which is quite loose. Avoiding using this probably puts it up a grade. Perhaps no longer a "good beginners' climb".
Howard J - 04/Aug/10
Just a quick update... Took a youth group from my Church there this weekend and had a fantastic time. We climbed to the right of the monument, using "On Peak Rock" as a guide. First of all, there's about 500m of delicious rock to the right of the monument, which are not covered by the guidebook :( We camped at the Eric Byne memorial site by the Robin Hood Inn. It's run by the really old couple again, after being run by the Peak authority for a while. It's 2.50 pppn, with toilets and fresh water. They now have a bin area which is new since I was last there (2003). Still no campfires, but where can you these days :( Still a superb crag, unbeatable for groups, families, beginners and first-time outdoor lead climbers.
rich in wales - 20/Oct/07
Victory Vice the V Diff on the Kismet Buttress has got bats living in it just a warning!!!
David Hollyer - 30/May/06
I love this crag - Gives us VS climbers the chance for great low grade soloing. Lots of lovely classically grit moves on a small scale.
Reds - 08/Mar/04
Don\'t miss the great bouldering opportunities to be had on the three large boulders on top of the crag. Each boulder has its name carved into the rock and is named after the Flagships of Nelson\'s fleet at the battle of Trafalgar.
Michael Hunt - 20/Jan/02