Climbs 301
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces SW

"Pensioner's at play" he said © Joshua Willett

Crag features

A fine, natural edge in an elevated position overlooking the Derwent Valley. Excellent, quick-drying clean grit (up to 15m), climbable at all times of the year (occasionally sandy after rain). Large number of low grade routes make this a beginner's (and unfortunately Outdoor Pursuit Group's) favourite spot. Often busy but loads to choose from. Don't miss the classic VSs, The Crow's Nest, Top Sail, Sail Buttress, Trafalgar Wall and Nelson's Nemesis.

Approach notes

From 100m above the Eric Byne car park at SK 279721 on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619) in <15 min.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
my favourite crag.
Stanners - 11/Sep/15
There is a pay car park and a field across the road. pick which you prefer. wet days I'd say the 4 will be worth it.
Lukem6 - 27/Oct/13
Surprised yesterday to have to pay for the Car Park. 2.50 up to 4 hours, 4 all day. Free to NT or RSPB members.
D Berry - 27/Oct/13
The is a problem on the back of the royal sovereign boulder that starts lying down under the overhang pulls through to a slot from slopers on the lip of the overhang and then on to the top with a tiny mono on the top. Does anyone no the name or grade? Thanks
ceturnock - 09/Sep/13
There's a large block halfway up Gun-cotton Groove (VD) on Kismet Buttress which is quite loose. Avoiding using this probably puts it up a grade. Perhaps no longer a "good beginners' climb".
Howard J - 04/Aug/10
Just a quick update... Took a youth group from my Church there this weekend and had a fantastic time. We climbed to the right of the monument, using "On Peak Rock" as a guide. First of all, there's about 500m of delicious rock to the right of the monument, which are not covered by the guidebook :( We camped at the Eric Byne memorial site by the Robin Hood Inn. It's run by the really old couple again, after being run by the Peak authority for a while. It's 2.50 pppn, with toilets and fresh water. They now have a bin area which is new since I was last there (2003). Still no campfires, but where can you these days :( Still a superb crag, unbeatable for groups, families, beginners and first-time outdoor lead climbers.
rich in wales - 20/Oct/07
Victory Vice the V Diff on the Kismet Buttress has got bats living in it just a warning!!!
David Hollyer - 30/May/06
I love this crag - Gives us VS climbers the chance for great low grade soloing. Lots of lovely classically grit moves on a small scale.
Reds - 08/Mar/04
Don\'t miss the great bouldering opportunities to be had on the three large boulders on top of the crag. Each boulder has its name carved into the rock and is named after the Flagships of Nelson\'s fleet at the battle of Trafalgar.
Michael Hunt - 20/Jan/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Far Left 
2PortsideHS 4b 12
3The BrinyE1 5b 4
4StarboardsideHS 4b 14
5Bosun's NoseS 4c 142
6Bosun's CrackVD 252
7Bosun's WallHVD 4a 207
8The GangplankM *824
 Poop Deck 
10Poop Crackf3 64
11Handy CrackD 561
12Handy Wallf3+ *31
13Visitors OnlyHS 4a *442
14Visitors Wallf5 15
15Howships Lacunae
f6C *4
f5 *3
17All AboardD 433
18Saltheart FoamfollowerHVS 5c *76
19Poop Deck CrackS 4a 304
20The PirateE2 6b 3
 The Crow's Nest 
22Disabled Seamanf6A 30
23Cabin Boyf6C 54
24The Cabinf6B 70
25Logf5 32
26Sling Your Hammockf5 ***23
27Dan's Aretef6C *17
28Crow's Feetf5+ *11
29Land Ho!HS 4c *164
30The Crow's NestVS 4c **871
31Scrim Netf6A *81
32Scrim Net Startf6A *32
33Lookout AreteS 4a *216
34The FunnelD *493
35Kiss Me HardyHVD 4a *540
36The DancerE1 5c 12
37Kiss Me Arse (Sit Start)f6C 45
38Kiss Me Arse (Standing Start)f6C *32
39Monocled Monof6C 20
40Kiss Me Softyf6B *32
41Victory CrackHS 4b *621
42Victory GullyS 4a *289
 Emma's Slab 
44Emma's SlabVS 4b *507
45Roger the Cabin Boyf6C *2
46Technical Geniusf7A *21
47Technical Genius (sit start)f7A+ **3
48Technical Genius Aretef6B *16
49Emma's DilemmaS 4a *1258
50Emma RoydVS 4c *325
51Emma's TemptationHVD 4c *1074
52Emma's DelightHS 4b *704
53DeludedVS 4c *249
54Emma's DelusionS 4a *438
55The ProwVS 4c *696
56ArtificialVD 56
57Oak GullyM 53
58Oak Tower
VD 52
59Heather Corner
D 36
60Heather Corner SlabM 35
 Nelson's Slab 
62The Rigging
D 50
63The Bunk LadderS 4a 31
64Captain's PrerogativeHS 4b *773
65Captain's BunkHS 4b *704
66Telescope TunnelM **445
67Captain's Crawl
M 129
68Porthole ButtressS 4a *284
69Porthole DirectVS 4c **1016
70Porthole Super Super DirectVS 5a 19
71Victor HugoE4 6b *1
72Captain BirdseyeVS 4c 147
73Blind EyeS 4b *222
74The Proprioceptive Octetnone 20
75Admiral's Flushed HeadD 10
76Dead EyeHVS 6a 29
77Nelson's SlabHS 5a *626
78Nelson's Slab Indirect StartHS 4b 28
79Nelson's Slab Direct Startf6A *10
80Half NelsonVS 5a *255
81Left Ladder ChimneyVD 168
82SplicedS 4a 14
83Right Ladder ChimneyHVD 4a 127
 Sail Buttress 
85Midshipman / Plain SailingE2 6a ***76
HVS 5a 20
87Cold CompassE2 6b *1
88The KrakenE6 6c ***2
89Sail ButtressHS 4b **1670
90Roger the Cabin BoyVS 4c *104
91RatlineHVS 5b **490
92Amazing GraceE2 6a 3
93Sail ChimneyS 4a **972
94TopsailVS 4c **2282
95Marie's Gone to CanadaE1 5c 1
96SpinnakerVS 5a 20
97Monument Chimney CrackVD *394
98Monument ChimneyD *625
 Orpheus Wall 
100Pillar WallS 4a 143
101The BowS 4a *232
102Buggerf5 15
103Orpheus WallHVS 5c **476
104Underworldf5+ 16
105PeachesE4 6b ***22
106Peaches Startf6A 14
107Creamf6C 5
108Pixief5 4
109Pixie (sit start)f6C 3
110Monument GullyVD *256
111Book SnifferE6 6b 1
112Monument Gully ButtressHVS 5b *297
113The KeelHVS 5b *130
114Naughty NauticalsE2 6b 11
115The BoomHVS 5a *2
 The Three Ships 
118Euryalusf3+ 175
119V for Victoryf3+ 233
120Prow Leftf3+ 218
121Prow Rightf3+ 210
122Victor's Ledgef3 120
123Prow Right Dynof6B *20
124Orionf4 116
125Neptunef3+ 133
126The Victory Traversef3+ 69
128Finisterref3+ 182
129St Vincentf3+ 188
130Calvif4 154
131Aboukirf3+ 173
132Tenerifef3+ 225
133Tenerife Right-Hand
f4 99
134The Defiance Traversef5 55
 Royal Soverin 
136Royalf3+ 164
137Bilgef3+ 149
138Buccaneerf3+ 112
139Buccaneer Leftf3+ 57
140Press Gangf5 78
141Mini rooff5+ *23
142Orlopf4 120
143The Royal Soverin Traversef3 49
 The Promenade to Trafalgar Wall 
145Cutting CornersS 4a 4
146The PromenadeD **1077
147Promenade DirectHVD 4a *731
148Promaretef6A *33
149The ChainS 4a *675
150Gritstone Megamixf7A *11
151HMS Daringf7B+ *2
152HMS Daring Right Handf7B+  
153Thing on a Springf7A *53
154Hollybush Gully (Birchen)VD 4b *326
155Anchor TraverseHS 4b *173
156Floating AnarchyHVS 5a 44
157Powder Monkey ParadeS 4b **1441
158Oarsman Aretef6B+ *7
159Oarsmanf6B+ 16
160'Oar 'Ousef7A 2
161Hornblowerf6C **65
162Obstructive Pensionerf7A+ *5
163Jumpers for Trousersf7C+ * 
164HangoverHVS 5b 69
165Admiral's ProgressD *432
166Polaris ExitD *209
 Trafalgar Wall 
168Bulbous Bowf5+ 167
169HammockVS 5b *161
170Camperdown CrawlHS 4c **1641
171Camperdown Crawl Right Hand VariantVS 5c 34
172Barnacle BulgeHS 4c *867
173Trafalgar CrackVD 4a *2172
174Trafalgar WallS 4b **1999
175The Defiance Variation
f4 13
176Defiance Crack
VD 4a 21
177The Long PromenadeVS 4b **42
 Stoker's Wall 
179Bell Bottom AreteS 4a 253
180Sailor's CrackS 4b *253
181Sailor's ProblemVD 587
182Whatknot?S 4b *290
183Reef KnotS 4b *631
184Sheet Bend (aka Sheep Bend)S 4b 277
185Nautical CrackVD *910
186Heave HoS 4a 300
187Yo-Ho CrackVD *1309
188Rum WallVD 685
189Rum BreakVD 101
190Stoker's BreakVD 758
191Stoker's HoleHS 4a *913
192StokedS 4a *982
193Stoker's WallD *940
194Stoker's Wall Traverse
VD 3c 29
195Stoker's Wall Flakef3+ 30
196Crack right of Stoker's WallM 2c 33
197Chasing the Dragonf7C  
 Copenhagen Wall 
199Scandiwallf3+ 14
200Copenhagen Wall Traverse
S 4a 26
201Copenhagen Corner Left-Hand VariantVD 24
202Copenhagen Cornerf3+ 367
203Scandiaretef5+ *318
204Dane's Delightf5 *540
205Dane's Disgustf5 *316
206Carlsberg Exportf6B 19
207Copenhagen WallVS 5a *424
208Mermaidf7C *1
f7B 35
210Wonderful Copenhagenf4+ *296
211Mast Gully RidgeVD *439
212Mast GullyM 226
 The Fo'c'sle 
214Mast Gully WallVD 4b 119
215Mast Gully CrackHS 4b *193
216Mast Gully ButtressVS 5a *186
217Fo'c'sle WallVS 4c *336
218Fo'c'sle CrackS 4b *620
219Fo'c'sle ChimneyVD *249
220Fo'c'sle AreteVS 5b *69
221Fo'c'sle Arete (Direct Start)f5 3
222Broadsidef6A+ *26
223Lowsidef6C 5
224The Buccaneerf7A *1
225The Brigandf7C+ *2
226Cave GullyVD *93
 Tar's Wall 
228Ta Very MuchHS 4c 93
229Tar's AreteVD 4a *361
230Ta Ta For NowHS 5a 243
231Tar's CrackVD *432
232Tar's TeeterVS 4c *11
233Tar's WallHVD 4b 424
234Sodomyf6C **23
235Tar's Traverse Left-Hand StartS 4c 27
236Tar's TraverseD 279
237Tar's ClimbM 165
238Tar's CornerM 174
239Tar's GullyD 342
240Pig HeadS 4c 241
241PigtailS 4a 284
242Wavedancef4+ 111
243Prow WallM 218
244Prow GullyM 26
245Prow Gully Prow Left-Hand Variation
f3+ 3
246Prow Gully Prow
HD 3a 24
 Barbette Buttress 
248Barbette AreteS 4b 29
249Barbette CrackHS 4b *212
250Barbette WallS 4a 143
251Barbette ButtressS 4b *370
252Cannonball CrackS 3c 92
253Cannonball WallVD *381
254Cannonball Wall DirectVS 5a 55
255Gunner's GangwayD 275
256Lieutenant's LadderD 161
257Men Unitedf5 22
258Isle of Menf5+ *17
 Seasick Slab 
260Midge's ManoeuvreE2 6a 10
261Middy's ManoeuvreHS 4c *127
262MidwayE1 6b 34
263Torpedo TubeHVD 4a *209
264FlatabackE1 6a 13
265Das BootVS 5a 21
266Gunner's GrooveD 265
267Seasick Arete left hand variation
f4 15
268Seasick Aretef4+ *377
269Seasick Slabf3+ 529
270Sick as a Parrot
HD 4a 28
 Wooden Leg Wall 
272Three Sheets to the WindHVD 4b 15
273Cabin FeverHVD 4a 84
274Wooden Leg Wall - Left CornerD 3b 22
275Spotted Dickf6A 1
276Moby DickS 4a 163
277Old CodgerVS 4c *76
278Bold CodgerE2 6a 4
279Wooden Leg WallHVS 5c *55
280Owd GadgeeE2 6a 4
281Young Gadfly
HS 4b 13
282Wooden Leg Wall - Right Corner
HD 3c 21
283Stoker's CrackS 4b 95
284Knick KnackE1 5b 38
285Stoker's SaunterVD 114
286Easy CornerM 39
287Matelot's MeanderS 4a 127
 Kismet Buttress 
289Yard ArmHS 4c 32
290Implosionf5+ 37
291Explosionf4+ *174
292Blast Hole Wallf5 *123
293Cor Limey!VD 20
294Powder KegS 4a 37
295Refusef6A 5
296FuseVS 5a *214
297Gun-Cotton GrooveVD *423
298Cook's RibE1 5c *121
299Horatio's DirectVS 4c *144
300Horatio's HorrorHS 4a **431
301Heavy CruiserE1 6a  
302Nelson's NemesisVS 4b ***713
303Tom's AreteE5 6b 1
304Victory ViceVD *128
305For Queen and CountryHVS 4c 42
306DeviceHVS 4c 148
307Gunpowder Gully AreteS 3c 147
308Gunpowder GullyD 106
309Sea Dog SlabVD 130
310Sea Dog Slab Direct
f3+ 10
311Sea Dog Slab Indirect
f3+ 7
312Sailor's chuteHVD 4a 62
313They Think It's All Over
VS 4b 5
314It Is Now
VD 3c 13
315It Is Now DirectVD 4b 10
316Ta Ta Ta For NowHS 5a 2
317The Admiral's HeadD 8
318Master and Commanderf6C *1
319Cabin Boy Variationf6C *2
320Seasick Stevef6A+ *6
321Whatnot, Stokers wall *
M 1
 Routes Added from Rockfax Book 
323Eliminate Flake *f4+ *3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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