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These details were last updated on 12/May/2014

Murroughkilly

Co. Clare, IRELAND

Climbs 75 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 199m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
The long limestone escarpment of Murroughkilly faces west and runs north/south above the village of Fanore between Black Head lighthouse and the Khyber Pass road. The crag has an atmosphere all of its own, ancient and wild, its only regular visitors being a herd of wild goats. It can be a good alternative when Ailladie is affected by sea-spray, though it takes the full brunt of westerly winds itself. Given that it is an unfrequented mountain cliff care should be taken with the rock, particularly at the tops of routes. Most of the climbs follow corners and cracks and there is still much scope for new routes.

Access - For the left-hand (northern) end of the crag park at the Black Head lighthouse (limited parking) and go straight up the hillside to reach the old ruined fort (Cathair Dhún Irghuis) after about 15 minutes. The crag can be easily seen ahead and to the right at about 450m.

For the southern end park about 1km up the Khyber Pass road just beyond the pass itself. There is a gate on the left. From here cross the stream, passing some sheep pens, and head diagonally leftwards up towards the crag.

Both approaches take about 30 minutes.

The crag is divided into 8 separate areas described from left to right (north to south). The height varies from 10m to 20m.

Walk from the old fort to the junction of the stone walls and continue in the same line to reach the bay with the clean bulging buttress on the right which gives this area its name. The climbs are on the steep clean wall on the left which is cut by vertical cracks and bounded on the left by a short corner. Left of this the escarpment is broken and vegetated.

Guidebooks
Climbs in the Burren and Aran Islands (2008)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1OCTOBERHS 4c * 
2DOOM AND GLOOME1 5b  
3DOONSBURYVD  
4THE NUTTERE2 6a  
5CORNISH RAIDERS  
6PEREGRINE FALCOFFHS *1
7TRUE WESTE2 5b ** 
8SQUALLE3 6a  
9BroncoVS 4c **4
10BATMAN LEAVES GOTHAM CITYHVS 5a  
11The Durango KidE1 5b **4
12MAVERICKS  
13MENTAL BLOCKVS 4c  
14An Mhear FhadaS 3c *3
15RYAN'S CRACKVS 4c *1
16Ryan's GrooveHVS 5a *1
17HOWARD'S ROUTEE1 5c  
18RIDDLEY WALKERVS 4c  
19Coakley's hammerVD ***7
20Soft OptionHS 4b *4
21Soft Option direct startHVS 5b  
22BURNET ROSEVS 4b *1
23WEST COAST COOLERHVS 5a * 
24YELLOW SUBMARINEVS 4b  
25Grace O'MalleyE1 5b **5
26Great WesternE1 5c 2
27LONE RANGERHVS 5a * 
28GOLD FINGERHVS 5a  
29ThrillerHVS 5a  
30SHAKEY FLAKESVS 4c 1
31A Fossil In My Prime.HVS 5a **1
32LIE DETECTORVS 4c  
33Reef EncounterE4 6b **1
34Billy MugginsE3 5c *1
35JCBD  
36BLUESKIESHVS 5a  
37SlothD 1
38DELICATESSENS  
 Climb nameGradex
39The Quiet ClamE5 6a **1
40RIFFRAFFHVS * 
41BLUEBIRDHVS 5a ** 
42TROUBLE CHILDHVS 5a  
43Fossil FuelE6 6b **1
44HARD TACKE1 5c * 
45SLI NA FIRINNEHVS 5a  
46GOOD CRACKVS 4c * 
47PRAMALAMADINGDONGE2 5c * 
48THE NEW HEATHENSE3 5c * 
49CROMWELLE3 5c  
50HINTS AND ALLEGATIONSE3 6a * 
51HY-BRASILE1 5b ** 
52NEBRASKAE2 5c ** 
53FREELANCEVS 4c ** 
54DISTRUST THE STARSHVS 5a ** 
55DELIVERANCEE3 6a * 
56UPLIFTHS 4c * 
57Rain Stops SeHS 4b 1
58ABOUT TIME TOOVS 4c * 
59RAIN DANCEVS  
60WOUNDED KNEEHVS 5a  
61Land of the FreeVS 4c ***1
62HOME OF THE BRAVEHVS 5a ** 
63EMIGRANT'S LEGACYS  
64HIGH DUDGEONHVS 5a **1
65FRESH FIELDSVS 4c ** 
66SQUATTINGE2 6a  
67TIGER'S TAILVS 4c **1
68TANTRUME4 6b ** 
69LION'S MOUTHHVS 5a **1
70EYE OF THE TIGERE1 5b ** 
71FLAKE RATTLE AND ROARHS 4a  
72HERE COMES SUMMERVD  
73LA na SCOLLAIBVD  
74RAINBOW WARRIORS  
75LA na GAOITHES  
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