Harpur Hill Quarry

Climbs 366 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces NE

Crag features
An impressive collection of quarried walls high above Buxton in an exposed position (if its windy its cold, even on a sunny day!). Hence dries quickly. Rock generally good, excellent in places, with routes up to 33m long. Recent developments have left a number of worthwhile lower grade sport routes, many of them with a 'trad' feel about them due to the type of climbing and run-out ("proper climbing, not just crimping"). Best routes are Mousehunt (6c), Bag of Bones (6b), The Prophecy (6c+), Coral Seas (6a+), Ratline (7b) and Cairn (7a+).

An excellant article on the infamous Battle of Harpur Hill by Mick Ward can be found here http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=223

For the latest info, try Gary Gibson's web site http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/peak/Harpur%20Hill.htm and don't forget to donate to his bolt fund every now and then !

Access notes
From Harpur Hill (south of Buxton), head west (Grin Low Road), taking the first turning to the left up the hill. Continue until the road levels out in an industrial complex. Park near the old disused railway line on the left. Folow the line forking right to enter wasteland below the quarry. The upper tier is approached from the right.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District : Climbing (2008), From Horseshoe to Harpur Hill (2004), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Peak Limestone - Stoney (1987),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 THE DARK SIDE - UPPER TIER 
2It has to End Somewhere6a
3Will It never End4a
4Is this the end5a
5Coming to an end6a+
6In My Darkest Hour5a
7End GamesHVS 5a
8Endsville6a
9Centreville6a
10Preston North End6c
11Will They?5a
12People Will Talk5a
13The Parting of the Lips5a
14Ear to Ear6a+
15UncreasedVS 4c
16HairlineVS 4c
17The Mouth Waters6b+ *
18I'm a Port Vale Dribbler6a
19George Stark Calling6a+ *
20Stark Disbelief6c+
21The Dark Half6b *
22Graveyard Blues6a+
23In Stark Contrast6b+ *
24Ghost Writer5c
25Under the Lifeline6b
26Over the Deadline6b
27Automatic Writing6a
28Fools Stuffing6a+
29Pillar of Wisdom6b
30The Invasion of the Creepazoid6c+
31Later That Night6b
32The Coming of the Sparrows5c
33Flight of the Finches6c
34Stop the Pigeon6b+
35Ken Dodd's Dad's Dogs DeadHVS 5b
36Gathering Darkness6c+
37A Trip on the Dark Side6a+ *
38Feel My Presence6b+
39Tapenard6b
40Wild Olives6b *
41Gorignak6a+
42Galaxy Quest5c
43Omega 136a *
44Dr Lazarus6a+
 PERCHED BLOCK BUTTRESS 
46What's the paint5a
47Pity The Grafitti5a
48Set Fred Free6a
49Wilky's Revenge5c *
50Making Plans for Nidge6b
51Helzapoppin'7a *
52Right Said Fred6b
53Coyote Club6a
54Wily Coyote (Trad)E2 5c
55Wile E Coyote6a *
56Beep, Beep6a+ *
57Road Runner5a *
58Road Runner (Trad)E1 5b
59Zebedee/Running for Cover5c
60Balance of Actions/The Run Off4c
61GreensleevesVS 4b
 PAPACY BUTTRESS 
63Angleterre5a
64This England7a+
65Pleasant Valley SundayE1 5b
66UpthrutchVS 4c *
67Gritarete7a *
68Snake EyesE3 5c *
69Strangled at Birth6b *
70Sincerely Yours6b *
71I'm in the Sin Bin5c *
72Sin CityE1 5b *
73The Seven Deadly SinsHVS 5a **
74Coral Seas6a **
75Avarice Allsorts7a *
76LustVS 4c
77Freedom of ChoiceVS 4c
78Rocky Variations6b **
79Apollo Creed6b **
80The Seven Deadly VirtuesE1 5b **
81Luddite Thought PoliceE3 6a *
82Penal ServitudeE2 5b *
83Full Frontal6c+ *
84El Camino RealE1 5b **
85Power of Soul7b *
86Dementia Normale6a *
87The Last Straw6b
88Figure of Law6c+ *
89I Am The Law6b+
 PROPHECY AREA 
91Danny Cool5a
92Cool Danny6b+
93Screaming Wheels6b *
94Swain's World6b *
95No Man's Land6b+
96The Exclusion Zone6b+ *
97The Iron Curtain6b
98Mouse Hunt6c
99Slowly, Slowly Catch A Monkey6a+ *
100Thing Thang7a
101Thang Thing7a
102Slab de Lune6a
103Master of a Lune6b
104Stack of Stones6a+ *
105Bag of Bones6a+ *
106Plate of Scones6b+ *
107Sara Laughs6b+
108Tenth Heaven6b *
109Calci-Mauve6b+ *
110Glas Double7a *
111Flaky PastryHVS 5a *
112Over the Hill6c **
113NostalgiaE4 6a **
114The Omen6b **
115Yogi Bare7a *
116Four Telling Tales6c *
117The Talisman6c+
118Bleingassen6c *
119The Oracle7b
120The Prophecy7a *
121Supernatural6a
122The Indian Cottage7a
123What a Load of Roti6a *
124Aloo Gobi6c
125Z Victor 1HVS 5a
126Pappadum Groove6a
127Quartz Initial6b+
128Duma Key6a *
129Viagra Falls6c+
130Different Seasons6a+ *
131Apt Pupil6c *
132In the Gravy6a+ *
133From Cradle to Grave6c *
134InceptionHS 4b
135Calcite Claws6c *
136So Veneer6b
137The End6a
 THE DARK SIDE - THE RACETRACK PLAYA 
139Skid Pan Alley5a
140Pole Position6a+
141Checkered Flag5c
142Peter Perfect5a
143Penelope Pit Stop5a
144The Whacky Races5a
145The Silver Stone6a *
146Long Playa6b *
147Dodgem Central6b *
148Life's a Drag6a *
149TT Special5a
150Brands Hatched6a
151Trick Cyclist6b+ *
152Speed Freak6b *
153Lap Times5c
154Screaming TargetE3 6a **
155Boneman ConnectionE2 5c
156Fist to Fist is DoneVS 4c *
157Mikey DreadHVS 4c
158ScientistE1 5b
159Speed Trails7a *
160Quads5a
161High Impact6a+ *
 THE DARK SIDE - LONG WALL 
163In Isolation6a
164Can't Pin it On Me6a
165Grow FinsE2 5b *
166Cats 23HVS 5a
167Tricycle ManE2 5c
168Get Peddling6c+
169Face ValueE3 6a
170A Dip in Turquoise NonsenseE3 6a
171Faces in the Mirror6c
172College CrackE1 5b
173Permutation WallHVS 5b
174Balance of Probabilities6c
175UpthrutchHVS 5b
176Diamond WallE1 5b
177Pool Hand Fluke6a+
178More Pool You6a
179Sleeping Sickness6a *
180My Bed's Downstairs6a
181Sleep On It6b *
182Regulo Mark 66b
183Easy On The Gas5a
184The Pillar Talk6a+
185The Pillar Walk5c
186Addit and Scarper6a+ *
187You've Addit6a *
188Addit Enough5c
189Addit Pillar6a+
190Flexor Hallucis Longus6a
191Long walk off a short pier6a+
192Tooooo long6a *
193Longevity6a *
194Long Time No See6a *
195The Long Walk6b *
196So Long, Farewell6a
197Belonging5c
198Doh6b *
 COLLEGE BUTTRESS 
200Old Fiends6c+
201Carvery6a+
202The Wrong Unconquerable6b
203Fartless7a+
204Strap a Doc to Me6c
205The Gypsy Kings6c
206Gooncrack6b+
207Forfeit of Doom6b+
208Meshrug a My Shoulders6b
209Profitless6b *
210Merry PheasantE1 5c
211Moontalk6b+ *
212Frantic ManoeuvresE2 5c *
213BonediggerE1 5b
214Prefect Day6b *
215Silent Sprung6b
216Thirty Nine and a Half StepsE1 5b
217White Wind6a
 THE LOWER TIER 
219Thank-you Grooves5a *
220Wallaclism6b
221Arteaclism6a+
222Overbored5a
223Gatting the Groove6a
224Mine Anarchy6a
225Only Ken's Anarchy Will Do6b
226Always Break the Rules5c
227Snap Decision5c
228The Candyman6a+
229Flossy's Slab6a+ *
230Toy Story6a
231Suck on This6a+
232Jelly Beans6a+
233Smartie People are Happy People6a
234Candy Store6a
235Tempting Children6c+
236Would you like a Sweety6c *
237Bolts 'R' Us6a+
238Sing for Your Dinner6b+
239Do Little6a
240Playground Bully6b+
241The Sweat Shop6a
242Totti for England4a
243A Bit of Totty6a
244Top Totty5a
245Jelly Tots5a
246Tiny Tots6a
247Teeny Tots6a
248The Jap's Eyes are on You6b+
249Outside Tokyo6b
250Nagasaki Grooves II6b
251Sumo7a *
252A Nip in the Air6b
253Geisha Grooves6a
254Saweno Gancho6c *
255Setting Sons6a
256The Golden Goose6a
257Hong Kong Fewy6a+
258The Rising Sun5a
259Kamikaze Clone6a+
260Shang-Hai6b
261Riding Shogun5a
262Fuji Fantastic6a
263Picture This6a+
264JokoharmaVS 5a
265The Bullet7a
 CAIRN AREA 
267Inconsiderate Blinking6a+
268Hey Diddle DiddleE1 5b *
269Unilateral Thinking6c
270Pell MellE3 5c
271The Light7a *
272Take Flight7a
273Buxton Goes French6b+
274Outer Limits6b+ *
275Twilight Zone6a+
276Argy Bargy5a
277The Misfits6a
278Hissing Sid6b
279Slippery BillHVS 5a
280Ratline7b **
281Cairn7a+ ***
282Stealth7a *
283Great White6a
284Orca6a+
285The Naked Spur5a
286Assault and Battery6b+
287Trial and Error7a
288Senile Delinquents5c *
289Cabin Fever6b
290UnknownS
291Fred FlintstoneVS 4b
292Barney RubbleVS 4c
293Yabba Dabba Doo!VS 4b
294Breakfast at Safeways6b
295Jam Butty Mines CrackVS 4c *
29699p Special6b
297Food for Sport6a
298Over Easy6a
299Full set6a+
300Short Sport6b
 THE SANCTUARY 
302By Caesarean5a
303New Arrivals6a
304Expecting5a
305Induction Program5a
306Premature6a
307Safe Haven5a
308The Hollow Man5a
309Christian Salvage Man6a *
310Which Depp-Artment6a
311Ichabod5c
312Sleepy Hollow6a *
313Bonny Helena5a
314Gone for a Tim Burton5a
315The Height Below5a
316The Sanctuarian6c
317For Haven's Sake6b
318Downtown6b *
319What Lies Beneath6b
320Haven or Hell6a
 THE PLAYGROUND 
322Sons of the DesertVS 4c
323Duelling TrousersHVS 5a
324Edge Play5a *
325Play Doh6a
326Helter Skelterer6a+
327Groovy Player6a+
328Movie Player6a
329Hard Player6b+
330I'm not a player4a
331Playground Attraction7a+
332The Hex6c+
333Ripsaw6c+
334E for FrictionE1 5b
335Terror of the Towers7a
336Whose is Casey ?6a
337Leben Tod6a+ *
338Pinball Wizard6b
339That Ball, LoveVS 4b
340Clackers Sprained my KnackersS
341Hamlet, Prince of Players6a+ *
342William's Plays Shakespeare6a+
343Flog the Lune6a
344A Comedy Of Played Errors6a+
345Did Romeo Play4a
346With Juliet6a+
347A merchant played in venice4a
 THE RETREAT 
349Clean Line5c
350Mean Team4c
351Cart the Wheel6a *
352Jamma yer Hut6a+
353Slip Yer Foot6a+
354Bust yer Gut6b+
355Unfinished Business7a+
356Fin de Siecle6c+ *
357Combien de Siecle7a+
358Tough Looking Face7a+
359The Butch Master6b+
360Retro Rockets6c+
361Let it Go6c+
362Pleasant Pillar5a
363The Gully Folk6b
364Sub-Atomic7a
365Atomic Tommy CooperE2 5b
366Clay ManVS 4c
367Dog CanuteE1 5b **
368YardcoreE3 5c *
369Gully Wall Right5a
370No Retreat6a+
371Beat Retreat6b
372Couples Retreat6b+
373Tough Face7a
374VLC6c
375SLF6a+
376MLT4a
 UNKNOWN ROUTES 
378Pebble dashed S 4a *
379Ask Mr. T for tea 6c+ *
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The Long Wall could really do with some "care and attention". All rather dirty and a bit vegetated and with very old lower off karabiners. Not exactly over bolted either and many off the routes deserve a flutter symbol. A pity as some of the rock is nice and it is all at a nice angle!
roger whetton - 18/Jul/14
If you keep to the best bits (the Upper Tier and Cairn sector) the rock quality is excellent and some of the routes are amongst the best of their grade in the Peak: Ratline, Cairn, Four Telling Tales, Over the Hill, Power of Soul, Coral Seas and quite few others.
stp - 13/Jun/14
There really is a load of tosh talked about this crag."The water is toxic"! WTF its not a spa that's Buxton!You're going to climb not swim! Good routes, some very worthwhile especially on the upper tier.But fine believe the rubbish spouted if you wish it leaves it nice and quiet for the rest of us:)
andybirtwistle - 30/Jul/13
If you have defaulted on your mortgage, been declared bankrupt or you have been advised to give your shoe laces to your mates, then this is the place for you.......... If not then go somewhere else. Seriously. Any where else but here. The water is toxic. The routes are loose and the bolts are something out of popular mechanics 1902 edition.
sputnik - 30/Aug/12
Good area for a climb, we parked in the village and walked to the Quarry. The climbs are good although the ones we climbed did have some loose rock so Helmets are a must. As far as the bolts go they are in pretty good shape but we found the first bolts to be quite high! So much so on some of the climbs a fall from the bolt at chest height would have resulted in 2-3 metre fall. Otherwise A very good venue if you don't expect to much.
magicmartin - 30/May/12
Visited here on Saturday 26th. Would highly recommend that people follow the warnings on parking in the guide. The parking area was very very busy (although hardly any climbers were visible on the crag) and they were clamping and ticketing anything and everything outside of the designated areas.
mattwyles1 - 28/May/12
You can't park by the disused railway line, there are clamping warnings everywhere. We found a place further up the road past the karting track on the left.
Paul Hy - 19/Apr/12
A contender for the most dismal major sport venue in the country. A post-modern celebration of low expectation consumer demand and cruddy rock. Enjoy!
Bulls Crack - 02/Oct/11
Went there today for a look and a traverse around the rocks. Most of the quarry is bolted, creating endless opps for routes. Helmet may be a good idea on some routes as there is a lot of loose rubble at the top of some rocks. Dries very quickly, and extremely windy.
usherwoodm00 - 12/Nov/08
A lot of the routes on the Prophecy buttress have high first bolts and steep sloping ground below. Take extra care as a slip can result in a cartwheel down onto sharp rocks. Often worthwhile carrying a set of wires.
Chris the Tall - 07/Jun/04
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 19/Sep/2014
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