Harpur Hill Quarry

Climbs 368 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces NE

Crag features

An impressive collection of quarried walls high above Buxton in an exposed position (if its windy its cold, even on a sunny day!). Hence dries quickly. Rock generally good, excellent in places, with routes up to 33m long. Recent developments have left a number of worthwhile lower grade sport routes, many of them with a 'trad' feel about them due to the type of climbing and run-out ("proper climbing, not just crimping"). Best routes are Mousehunt (6c), Bag of Bones (6b), The Prophecy (6c+), Coral Seas (6a+), Ratline (7b) and Cairn (7a+).


An excellant article on the infamous Battle of Harpur Hill by Mick Ward can be found here http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=223


For the latest info, try Gary Gibson's web site http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/peak/Harpur%20Hill.htm and don't forget to donate to his bolt fund every now and then !

Approach notes

From Harpur Hill (south of Buxton), head west (Grin Low Road), taking the first turning to the left up the hill. Continue until the road levels out in an industrial complex. Park near the old disused railway line on the left. Folow the line forking right to enter wasteland below the quarry. The upper tier is approached from the right.

Access notes

There is no access agreement here. The landowner occasionally appears and lets people know they have no right of access.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone North (2015), Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District : Climbing (2008), From Horseshoe to Harpur Hill (2004), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Peak Limestone - Stoney (1987),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE DARK SIDE - UPPER TIER  
2It has to End Somewhere6a  
3Will It never End4c 5
4Is this the end5a 3
5Coming to an end6a+ 3
6In My Darkest Hour5a 9
7End GamesHVS 5a  
8Endsville6a 11
9Centreville6a 5
10Preston North End6c  
11Will They?5a 1
12People Will Talk5c 57
13The Parting of the Lips5a 43
14Ear to Ear6a+ 21
15UncreasedVS 4c 2
16HairlineVS 4c 4
17The Mouth Waters6b+ *12
18I'm a Port Vale Dribbler6a 1
19George Stark Calling6a+ *46
20Metal Back CrackHVS 5a  
21Stark Disbelief6c+ 10
22The Dark Half6b *32
23Graveyard Blues6a+ 4
24In Stark Contrast6b+ *3
25Ghost Writer5c 1
26Under the Lifeline6b  
27Over the Deadline6b 2
28Automatic Writing6a 2
29Fools Stuffing6a+ 3
30Pillar of Wisdom6b 1
31The Invasion of the Creepazoid6c+ 2
32Later That Night6b 3
33The Coming of the Sparrows5c *61
34Flight of the Finches6c  
35Stop the Pigeon6b+ 2
36Ken Dodd's Dad's Dogs DeadHVS 5b 2
37Gathering Darkness6c+ *2
38A Trip on the Dark Side6a+ *47
39Feel My Presence6b+ 12
40Tapenard6b *3
41Wild Olives6b *22
42Gorignak6b *31
43Galaxy Quest5c *21
44Omega 136a+ *47
45Dr Lazarus6a+ 17
 PERCHED BLOCK BUTTRESS  
47What's the paint5a 11
48Pity The Grafitti5a 2
49Set Fred Free6a 2
50Wilky's Revenge5c 2
51Making Plans for Nidge6b  
52Helzapoppin'7a * 
53Right Said Fred6b  
54Coyote Club6a 3
55Wily Coyote (Trad)6a 1
56Wile E Coyote6a *5
57Beep, Beep6a+ 1
58Road Runner5a *5
59Road Runner (Trad)5a 1
60Zebedee/Running for Cover5c 7
61Balance of Actions/The Run Off4a 4
62GreensleevesVS 4b 2
 PAPACY BUTTRESS  
64Angleterre5a 6
65This England7a+ *2
66Pleasant Valley SundayE1 5b 3
67UpthrutchVS 4c *1
68Gritarete7a *2
69Snake EyesE3 5c *1
70Strangled at Birth6b+ *14
71Sincerely Yours6b *6
72I'm in the Sin Bin6a *30
73Sin CityE1 5b * 
74The Seven Deadly SinsHVS 5a **45
75Coral Seas6a ***421
76Avarice Allsorts6c+ *36
77LustVS 4c *3
78Freedom of ChoiceVS 4c 1
79Rocky Variations6b ***170
80Apollo Creed6b ***138
81The Seven Deadly VirtuesE1 5b **29
82Luddite Thought PoliceE3 6a *1
83Penal ServitudeE2 5b *5
84Full Frontal6c *27
85El Camino RealE1 5b **21
86Power of Soul7b+ **14
87Dementia Normale6a *122
88The Last Straw6b 13
89Figure of Law6c+ *3
90I Am The Law6b+ *1
 PROPHECY AREA  
92Danny Cool5a 5
93Cool Danny6b 2
94Screaming Wheels6b *9
95Swain's World6b *7
96No Man's Land6b+ 6
97The Exclusion Zone6b+ *16
98The Iron Curtain6a+ *29
99Mouse Hunt6c **5
100Slowly, Slowly Catch A Monkey6a+ *7
101Thing Thang7a 2
102Thang Thing7a 2
103Slab de Lune6a 4
104Master of a Lune6b  
105Stack of Stones6a+ *30
106Bag of Bones6a+ **82
107Plate of Scones6b+ 1
108Sara Laughs6b+ *7
109Tenth Heaven6b *1
110Calci-Mauve6b **46
111Glas Double7a *1
112Flaky PastryHVS 5a * 
113Over the Hill6c **30
114NostalgiaE4 6a **1
115The Omen6b **10
116Yogi Bare7a *13
117Four Telling Tales6c+ **28
118The Talisman6c+ *8
119Bleingassen6c *1
120The Oracle7b *2
121The Prophecy7a **18
122Supernatural6a **51
123The Indian Cottage7a 1
124What a Load of Roti6a *14
125Aloo Gobi6c 4
126Z Victor 1HVS 5a  
127Pappadum Groove6a 6
128Quartz Initial6b+ 7
129Duma Key6a *3
130Viagra Falls6c+ *5
131Different Seasons6a+ *37
132Apt Pupil6c *8
133In the Gravy6a *50
134From Cradle to Grave6c *8
135InceptionHS 4b  
136Calcite Claws6c *4
137So Veneer6b 2
138The End6a 1
 THE DARK SIDE - THE RACETRACK PLAYA  
140Skid Pan Alley5a 7
141Pole Position6a 9
142Checkered Flag5c 13
143Peter Perfect5a 11
144Penelope Pit Stop5a 9
145The Whacky Races5a 6
146The Silver Stone6a 6
147Long Playa6b *21
148Dodgem Central6b 11
149Life's a Drag6a 10
150TT Special5a 6
151Brands Hatched6a 3
152Trick Cyclist6b+ 2
153Speed Freak6b 3
154Lap Times5c 1
155Screaming TargetE3 6a  
156Boneman ConnectionE2 5c  
157Fist to Fist is DoneVS 4c 2
158Mikey DreadHVS 4c  
159ScientistE1 5b  
160Speed Trails7a *2
161Quads5a 2
162High Impact6a+ *11
 THE DARK SIDE - LONG WALL  
164In Isolation6a 2
165Can't Pin it On Me6a 1
166Grow FinsE2 5b  
167Cats 23HVS 5a  
168Tricycle ManE2 5c  
169Get Peddling6c+  
170Face ValueE3 6a  
171A Dip in Turquoise NonsenseE3 6a  
172Faces in the Mirror6c  
173College CrackE1 5b  
174Permutation WallHVS 5b  
175Balance of Probabilities6c  
176UpthrutchHVS 5b  
177Diamond WallE1 5b  
178Pool Hand Fluke6a+  
179More Pool You6a  
180Sleeping Sickness6a 4
181My Bed's Downstairs6a 5
182Sleep On It6b 5
183Regulo Mark 66b 2
184Easy On The Gas5a 22
185The Pillar Talk6a+ 7
186The Pillar Walk5c *18
187Addit and Scarper6a+ 7
188You've Addit6a 15
189Addit Enough5c 20
190Addit Pillar6a+ 5
191Flexor Hallucis Longus6a 1
192Long walk off a short pier6a+ 5
193Tooooo long6a 12
194Longevity6a 10
195Long Time No See6a 8
196The Long Walk6b 6
197So Long, Farewell6a 10
198Belonging5c 22
199Doh6b 6
 COLLEGE BUTTRESS  
201Old Fiends6c+  
202Carvery6a+  
203The Wrong Unconquerable6b  
204Fartless7a+  
205Strap a Doc to Me6c  
206The Gypsy Kings6c  
207Gooncrack6b+ *3
208Forfeit of Doom6b+  
209Meshrug a My Shoulders6b  
210Profitless6b * 
211Merry PheasantE1 5c  
212Moontalk6b+ * 
213Frantic ManoeuvresE2 5c * 
214BonediggerE1 5b  
215Prefect Day6b * 
216Silent Sprung6b  
217Thirty Nine and a Half StepsE1 5b  
218White Wind6a  
 THE LOWER TIER  
220Thank-you Grooves5a 4
221Wallaclism6b  
222Arteaclism6a+ 1
223Overbored5a *85
224Gatting the Groove5c 90
225Mine Anarchy5c 119
226Only Ken's Anarchy Will Do6b *79
227Always Break the Rules5c *146
228Snap Decision5c 109
229The Candyman6a+ *75
230Flossy's Slab6a+ *118
231Toy Story6a 67
232Suck on This6a+ *59
233Jelly Beans6a+ 18
234Smartie People are Happy People6a *93
235Candy Store6a *74
236Tempting Children6c+ 7
237Would you like a Sweety6c *47
238Bolts 'R' Us6b *44
239Sing for Your Dinner6b+ *7
240Do Little6a 7
241Playground Bully6b+  
242The Sweat Shop6a 3
243Totti for England4a 25
244A Bit of Totty6a+ 58
245Top Totty5a *143
246Jelly Tots5a 105
247Tiny Tots6a *103
248Teeny Tots6a 63
249The Jap's Eyes are on You6b+ 6
250Outside Tokyo6b 24
251Nagasaki Grooves II6b 17
252Sumo7a *17
253A Nip in the Air6b 7
254Geisha Grooves6a 33
255Saweno Gancho6c *6
256Setting Sons6a 28
257The Golden Goose5a 40
258Hong Kong Fewy6a+ 47
259The Rising Sun5a 67
260Kamikaze Clone6a 36
261Shang-Hai6b  
262Riding Shogun6a+ *16
263Fuji Fantastic6a 1
264Picture This6a 1
265JokoharmaVS 5a 1
266The Bullet7a  
 CAIRN AREA  
268Inconsiderate Blinking6a+ 2
269Hey Diddle DiddleE1 5b * 
270Unilateral Thinking6c 1
271Pell MellE3 5c 1
272The Light7a *1
273Take Flight6c+ 1
274Buxton Goes French6b+ 3
275Outer Limits6b **8
276Twilight Zone6a+ 3
277Argy Bargy5a 14
278The Misfits6a 39
279Hissing Sid6b 50
280Slippery BillHVS 5a 3
281Ratline7b+ **37
282Cairn7a ***200
283Stealth7a+ **8
284Great White6a 105
285Orca6a+ 9
286The Naked Spur5a *151
287Assault and Battery6b+ 4
288Trial and Error7a 6
289Senile Delinquents5c **149
290Cabin Fever6b 36
291UnknownS 3
292Fred FlintstoneVS 4b 12
293Barney RubbleVS 4c 6
294Yabba Dabba Doo!HS 4b 4
295Breakfast at Safeways6b *64
296Jam Butty Mines CrackVS 4c *20
29799p Special6b 51
298Food for Sport6a *48
299Over Easy6a 1
300Full set6a+ 22
301Short Sport6b 3
 THE SANCTUARY  
303By Caesarean5c 75
304New Arrivals6a+ 58
305Expecting5a 149
306Induction Program5a 94
307Premature6a 34
308Safe Haven5c 88
309The Hollow Man5a 99
310Christian Salvage Man6a *119
311Which Depp-Artment6a+ 63
312Ichabod5c 68
313Sleepy Hollow6a+ *88
314Bonny Helena5a 20
315Gone for a Tim Burton5a *113
316The Height Below5a 90
317The Sanctuarian6c 23
318For Haven's Sake6b *45
319Downtown6b *51
320What Lies Beneath6b 19
321Haven or Hell6a 15
 THE PLAYGROUND  
323Sons of the DesertVS 4c 1
324Duelling TrousersHVS 5a 1
325Edge Play5a 10
326Play Doh6a 9
327Helter Skelterer6a+ 1
328Groovy Player6a+ 1
329Movie Player6a 9
330Hard Player6b+ 2
331I'm not a player4a 14
332Playground Attraction7a+  
333The Hex6c+  
334Ripsaw6c+  
335E for FrictionE1 5b 1
336Terror of the Towers7a 2
337Whose is Casey ?6a 15
338Leben Tod6a+ 10
339Pinball Wizard6b  
340That Ball, LoveVS 4b 1
341Clackers Sprained my KnackersS 1
342Hamlet, Prince of Players6a+ 3
343William's Plays Shakespeare6a+ 1
344Flog the Lune6a 11
345A Comedy Of Played Errors6a+ 4
346Did Romeo Play4a 22
347With Juliet6a+ 5
348A merchant played in venice4a 17
 THE RETREAT  
350Clean Line5c 3
351Mean Team4a 3
352Cart the Wheel6a+ 3
353Jamma yer Hut6a+ 2
354Slip Yer Foot6a+ 2
355Bust yer Gut6b+ 1
356Unfinished Business7a+  
357Fin de Siecle6c+ * 
358Combien de Siecle7a+  
359Tough Looking Face7a+  
360The Butch Master6b+ 1
361Retro Rockets6c+  
362Let it Go6c+  
363Pleasant Pillar5a  
364The Gully Folk6b  
365Sub-Atomic7a  
366Atomic Tommy CooperE2 5c  
367Clay ManVS 4c  
368Dog CanuteE1 5b *1
369YardcoreE3 5c 1
370Gully Wall Right5a 1
371No Retreat6a+ 2
372Beat Retreat6b  
373Couples Retreat6b+  
374Tough Face7a  
375VLC6c  
376SLF6a+  
377MLT4a 1
 UNKNOWN ROUTES  
379Pebble dashedS 4a *1
380Ask Mr. T for tea6c+ *1
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The access notes for harpur hill say to park up near the disused railway line. It seems the quarry owner / construction company have fenced and locked this off now. So it's that 3 car lay-by or parking in the village now.
andy_e - 05/Jul/15
Good to see that the Long Wall has been reequipped - thanks Gary, but it's a pity that the odd extra bolt wasn't added. Many of the routes are rather run out and deserve a flutter symbol.
roger whetton - 26/Jun/15
The Long Wall could really do with some "care and attention". All rather dirty and a bit vegetated and with very old lower off karabiners. Not exactly over bolted either and many off the routes deserve a flutter symbol. A pity as some of the rock is nice and it is all at a nice angle!
roger whetton - 18/Jul/14
If you keep to the best bits (the Upper Tier and Cairn sector) the rock quality is excellent and some of the routes are amongst the best of their grade in the Peak: Ratline, Cairn, Four Telling Tales, Over the Hill, Power of Soul, Coral Seas and quite few others.
stp - 13/Jun/14
There really is a load of tosh talked about this crag."The water is toxic"! WTF its not a spa that's Buxton!You're going to climb not swim! Good routes, some very worthwhile especially on the upper tier.But fine believe the rubbish spouted if you wish it leaves it nice and quiet for the rest of us:)
andybirtwistle - 30/Jul/13
If you have defaulted on your mortgage, been declared bankrupt or you have been advised to give your shoe laces to your mates, then this is the place for you.......... If not then go somewhere else. Seriously. Any where else but here. The water is toxic. The routes are loose and the bolts are something out of popular mechanics 1902 edition.
sputnik - 30/Aug/12
Good area for a climb, we parked in the village and walked to the Quarry. The climbs are good although the ones we climbed did have some loose rock so Helmets are a must. As far as the bolts go they are in pretty good shape but we found the first bolts to be quite high! So much so on some of the climbs a fall from the bolt at chest height would have resulted in 2-3 metre fall. Otherwise A very good venue if you don't expect to much.
magicmartin - 30/May/12
Visited here on Saturday 26th. Would highly recommend that people follow the warnings on parking in the guide. The parking area was very very busy (although hardly any climbers were visible on the crag) and they were clamping and ticketing anything and everything outside of the designated areas.
mattwyles1 - 28/May/12
You can't park by the disused railway line, there are clamping warnings everywhere. We found a place further up the road past the karting track on the left.
Paul Hy - 19/Apr/12
A contender for the most dismal major sport venue in the country. A post-modern celebration of low expectation consumer demand and cruddy rock. Enjoy!
Bulls Crack - 02/Oct/11
Went there today for a look and a traverse around the rocks. Most of the quarry is bolted, creating endless opps for routes. Helmet may be a good idea on some routes as there is a lot of loose rubble at the top of some rocks. Dries very quickly, and extremely windy.
usherwoodm00 - 12/Nov/08
A lot of the routes on the Prophecy buttress have high first bolts and steep sloping ground below. Take extra care as a slip can result in a cartwheel down onto sharp rocks. Often worthwhile carrying a set of wires.
Chris the Tall - 07/Jun/04