Harpur Hill Quarry

Climbs 366 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces NE

Crag features
An impressive collection of quarried walls high above Buxton in an exposed position (if its windy its cold, even on a sunny day!). Hence dries quickly. Rock generally good, excellent in places, with routes up to 33m long. Recent developments have left a number of worthwhile lower grade sport routes, many of them with a 'trad' feel about them due to the type of climbing and run-out ("proper climbing, not just crimping"). Best routes are Mousehunt (6c), Bag of Bones (6b), The Prophecy (6c+), Coral Seas (6a+), Ratline (7b) and Cairn (7a+).

An excellant article on the infamous Battle of Harpur Hill by Mick Ward can be found here http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=223

For the latest info, try Gary Gibson's web site http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/peak/Harpur%20Hill.htm and don't forget to donate to his bolt fund every now and then !

Access notes
From Harpur Hill (south of Buxton), head west (Grin Low Road), taking the first turning to the left up the hill. Continue until the road levels out in an industrial complex. Park near the old disused railway line on the left. Folow the line forking right to enter wasteland below the quarry. The upper tier is approached from the right.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District : Climbing (2008), From Horseshoe to Harpur Hill (2004), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Peak Limestone - Stoney (1987),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE DARK SIDE - UPPER TIER  
2It has to End Somewhere6a  
3Will It never End4a 2
4Is this the end5a 2
5Coming to an end6a+ 2
6In My Darkest Hour5a 9
7End GamesHVS 5a  
8Endsville6a 10
9Centreville6a 5
10Preston North End6c  
11Will They?5a 1
12People Will Talk5a 55
13The Parting of the Lips5a 43
14Ear to Ear6a+ 21
15UncreasedVS 4c 2
16HairlineVS 4c 2
17The Mouth Waters6b+ *12
18I'm a Port Vale Dribbler6a 1
19George Stark Calling6a+ *44
20Stark Disbelief6c+ 9
21The Dark Half6b *30
22Graveyard Blues6a+ 4
23In Stark Contrast6b+ *3
24Ghost Writer5c  
25Under the Lifeline6b  
26Over the Deadline6b 2
27Automatic Writing6a 2
28Fools Stuffing6a+ 3
29Pillar of Wisdom6b 1
30The Invasion of the Creepazoid6c+ 2
31Later That Night6b 3
32The Coming of the Sparrows5c 55
33Flight of the Finches6c  
34Stop the Pigeon6b+ 2
35Ken Dodd's Dad's Dogs DeadHVS 5b 2
36Gathering Darkness6c+ 2
37A Trip on the Dark Side6a+ *41
38Feel My Presence6b+ 10
39Tapenard6b 1
40Wild Olives6b *18
41Gorignak6a+ 26
42Galaxy Quest5c 14
43Omega 136a *39
44Dr Lazarus6a+ 14
 PERCHED BLOCK BUTTRESS  
46What's the paint5a 9
47Pity The Grafitti5a 2
48Set Fred Free6a 2
49Wilky's Revenge5c *2
50Making Plans for Nidge6b  
51Helzapoppin'7a * 
52Right Said Fred6b  
53Coyote Club6a 3
54Wily Coyote (Trad)E2 5c 1
55Wile E Coyote6a *1
56Beep, Beep6a+ *1
57Road Runner5a *2
58Road Runner (Trad)E1 5b 1
59Zebedee/Running for Cover5c 2
60Balance of Actions/The Run Off4c 2
61GreensleevesVS 4b 2
 PAPACY BUTTRESS  
63Angleterre5a 5
64This England7a+ 2
65Pleasant Valley SundayE1 5b 3
66UpthrutchVS 4c *1
67Gritarete7a *2
68Snake EyesE3 5c *1
69Strangled at Birth6b *12
70Sincerely Yours6b *4
71I'm in the Sin Bin5c *21
72Sin CityE1 5b * 
73The Seven Deadly SinsHVS 5a **43
74Coral Seas6a **370
75Avarice Allsorts7a *33
76LustVS 4c 3
77Freedom of ChoiceVS 4c 1
78Rocky Variations6b **146
79Apollo Creed6b **121
80The Seven Deadly VirtuesE1 5b **28
81Luddite Thought PoliceE3 6a *1
82Penal ServitudeE2 5b *5
83Full Frontal6c+ *25
84El Camino RealE1 5b **21
85Power of Soul7b *12
86Dementia Normale6a *106
87The Last Straw6b 12
88Figure of Law6c+ *3
89I Am The Law6b+ 1
 PROPHECY AREA  
91Danny Cool5a 4
92Cool Danny6b+ 2
93Screaming Wheels6b *8
94Swain's World6b *6
95No Man's Land6b+ 4
96The Exclusion Zone6b+ *15
97The Iron Curtain6b 23
98Mouse Hunt6c 5
99Slowly, Slowly Catch A Monkey6a+ *7
100Thing Thang7a 2
101Thang Thing7a 2
102Slab de Lune6a 4
103Master of a Lune6b  
104Stack of Stones6a+ *30
105Bag of Bones6a+ *72
106Plate of Scones6b+ *1
107Sara Laughs6b+ 7
108Tenth Heaven6b *1
109Calci-Mauve6b+ *37
110Glas Double7a *1
111Flaky PastryHVS 5a * 
112Over the Hill6c **29
113NostalgiaE4 6a **1
114The Omen6b **6
115Yogi Bare7a *8
116Four Telling Tales6c *26
117The Talisman6c+ 7
118Bleingassen6c *1
119The Oracle7b 2
120The Prophecy7a *16
121Supernatural6a 38
122The Indian Cottage7a 1
123What a Load of Roti6a *11
124Aloo Gobi6c 4
125Z Victor 1HVS 5a  
126Pappadum Groove6a 6
127Quartz Initial6b+ 7
128Duma Key6a *3
129Viagra Falls6c+ 5
130Different Seasons6a+ *34
131Apt Pupil6c *7
132In the Gravy6a+ *46
133From Cradle to Grave6c *8
134InceptionHS 4b  
135Calcite Claws6c *4
136So Veneer6b 2
137The End6a 1
 THE DARK SIDE - THE RACETRACK PLAYA  
139Skid Pan Alley5a 7
140Pole Position6a+ 8
141Checkered Flag5c 12
142Peter Perfect5a 9
143Penelope Pit Stop5a 9
144The Whacky Races5a 6
145The Silver Stone6a *6
146Long Playa6b *18
147Dodgem Central6b *11
148Life's a Drag6a *9
149TT Special5a 5
150Brands Hatched6a 3
151Trick Cyclist6b+ *2
152Speed Freak6b *2
153Lap Times5c  
154Screaming TargetE3 6a ** 
155Boneman ConnectionE2 5c  
156Fist to Fist is DoneVS 4c *2
157Mikey DreadHVS 4c  
158ScientistE1 5b  
159Speed Trails7a *2
160Quads5a  
161High Impact6a+ *11
 THE DARK SIDE - LONG WALL  
163In Isolation6a 2
164Can't Pin it On Me6a  
165Grow FinsE2 5b * 
166Cats 23HVS 5a  
167Tricycle ManE2 5c  
168Get Peddling6c+  
169Face ValueE3 6a  
170A Dip in Turquoise NonsenseE3 6a  
171Faces in the Mirror6c  
172College CrackE1 5b  
173Permutation WallHVS 5b  
174Balance of Probabilities6c  
175UpthrutchHVS 5b  
176Diamond WallE1 5b  
177Pool Hand Fluke6a+  
178More Pool You6a  
179Sleeping Sickness6a *4
180My Bed's Downstairs6a 4
181Sleep On It6b *5
182Regulo Mark 66b  
183Easy On The Gas5a 14
184The Pillar Talk6a+ 1
185The Pillar Walk5c 14
186Addit and Scarper6a+ *4
187You've Addit6a *7
188Addit Enough5c 11
189Addit Pillar6a+  
190Flexor Hallucis Longus6a  
191Long walk off a short pier6a+ 3
192Tooooo long6a *6
193Longevity6a *6
194Long Time No See6a *4
195The Long Walk6b *3
196So Long, Farewell6a 6
197Belonging5c 18
198Doh6b *5
 COLLEGE BUTTRESS  
200Old Fiends6c+  
201Carvery6a+  
202The Wrong Unconquerable6b  
203Fartless7a+  
204Strap a Doc to Me6c  
205The Gypsy Kings6c  
206Gooncrack6b+ 3
207Forfeit of Doom6b+  
208Meshrug a My Shoulders6b  
209Profitless6b * 
210Merry PheasantE1 5c  
211Moontalk6b+ * 
212Frantic ManoeuvresE2 5c * 
213BonediggerE1 5b  
214Prefect Day6b * 
215Silent Sprung6b  
216Thirty Nine and a Half StepsE1 5b  
217White Wind6a  
 THE LOWER TIER  
219Thank-you Grooves5a *4
220Wallaclism6b  
221Arteaclism6a+ 1
222Overbored5a 77
223Gatting the Groove6a 77
224Mine Anarchy6a 108
225Only Ken's Anarchy Will Do6b 71
226Always Break the Rules5c 129
227Snap Decision5c 97
228The Candyman6a+ 67
229Flossy's Slab6a+ *106
230Toy Story6a 55
231Suck on This6a+ 48
232Jelly Beans6a+ 12
233Smartie People are Happy People6a 82
234Candy Store6a 61
235Tempting Children6c+ 7
236Would you like a Sweety6c *40
237Bolts 'R' Us6a+ 35
238Sing for Your Dinner6b+ 7
239Do Little6a 7
240Playground Bully6b+  
241The Sweat Shop6a 2
242Totti for England4a 23
243A Bit of Totty6a 58
244Top Totty5a 130
245Jelly Tots5a 101
246Tiny Tots6a 98
247Teeny Tots6a 62
248The Jap's Eyes are on You6b+ 6
249Outside Tokyo6b 23
250Nagasaki Grooves II6b 17
251Sumo7a *17
252A Nip in the Air6b 7
253Geisha Grooves6a 32
254Saweno Gancho6c *6
255Setting Sons6a 27
256The Golden Goose6a 36
257Hong Kong Fewy6a+ 46
258The Rising Sun5a 65
259Kamikaze Clone6a+ 31
260Shang-Hai6b  
261Riding Shogun5a 16
262Fuji Fantastic6a 1
263Picture This6a+ 1
264JokoharmaVS 5a 1
265The Bullet7a  
 CAIRN AREA  
267Inconsiderate Blinking6a+ 2
268Hey Diddle DiddleE1 5b * 
269Unilateral Thinking6c 1
270Pell MellE3 5c 1
271The Light7a *1
272Take Flight7a 1
273Buxton Goes French6b+ 2
274Outer Limits6b+ *7
275Twilight Zone6a+ 3
276Argy Bargy5a 11
277The Misfits6a 38
278Hissing Sid6b 49
279Slippery BillHVS 5a 3
280Ratline7b **31
281Cairn7a+ ***178
282Stealth7a *8
283Great White6a 94
284Orca6a+ 8
285The Naked Spur5a 133
286Assault and Battery6b+ 4
287Trial and Error7a 7
288Senile Delinquents5c *130
289Cabin Fever6b 34
290UnknownS 3
291Fred FlintstoneVS 4b 12
292Barney RubbleVS 4c 6
293Yabba Dabba Doo!VS 4b 4
294Breakfast at Safeways6b 62
295Jam Butty Mines CrackVS 4c *19
29699p Special6b 48
297Food for Sport6a 41
298Over Easy6a  
299Full set6a+ 19
300Short Sport6b 3
 THE SANCTUARY  
302By Caesarean5a 72
303New Arrivals6a 55
304Expecting5a 143
305Induction Program5a 94
306Premature6a 30
307Safe Haven5a 85
308The Hollow Man5a 94
309Christian Salvage Man6a *113
310Which Depp-Artment6a 55
311Ichabod5c 64
312Sleepy Hollow6a *86
313Bonny Helena5a 15
314Gone for a Tim Burton5a 101
315The Height Below5a 86
316The Sanctuarian6c 23
317For Haven's Sake6b 40
318Downtown6b *50
319What Lies Beneath6b 17
320Haven or Hell6a 15
 THE PLAYGROUND  
322Sons of the DesertVS 4c  
323Duelling TrousersHVS 5a  
324Edge Play5a *6
325Play Doh6a 5
326Helter Skelterer6a+ 1
327Groovy Player6a+ 1
328Movie Player6a 7
329Hard Player6b+ 1
330I'm not a player4a 8
331Playground Attraction7a+  
332The Hex6c+  
333Ripsaw6c+  
334E for FrictionE1 5b  
335Terror of the Towers7a 2
336Whose is Casey ?6a 10
337Leben Tod6a+ *6
338Pinball Wizard6b  
339That Ball, LoveVS 4b  
340Clackers Sprained my KnackersS  
341Hamlet, Prince of Players6a+ *3
342William's Plays Shakespeare6a+ 1
343Flog the Lune6a 10
344A Comedy Of Played Errors6a+ 2
345Did Romeo Play4a 17
346With Juliet6a+ 3
347A merchant played in venice4a 13
 THE RETREAT  
349Clean Line5c 3
350Mean Team4c 3
351Cart the Wheel6a *3
352Jamma yer Hut6a+ 2
353Slip Yer Foot6a+ 2
354Bust yer Gut6b+ 1
355Unfinished Business7a+  
356Fin de Siecle6c+ * 
357Combien de Siecle7a+  
358Tough Looking Face7a+  
359The Butch Master6b+ 1
360Retro Rockets6c+  
361Let it Go6c+  
362Pleasant Pillar5a  
363The Gully Folk6b  
364Sub-Atomic7a  
365Atomic Tommy CooperE2 5b  
366Clay ManVS 4c  
367Dog CanuteE1 5b **1
368YardcoreE3 5c *1
369Gully Wall Right5a 1
370No Retreat6a+ 2
371Beat Retreat6b  
372Couples Retreat6b+  
373Tough Face7a  
374VLC6c  
375SLF6a+  
376MLT4a 1
 UNKNOWN ROUTES  
378Pebble dashed S 4a *1
379Ask Mr. T for tea 6c+ *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The Long Wall could really do with some "care and attention". All rather dirty and a bit vegetated and with very old lower off karabiners. Not exactly over bolted either and many off the routes deserve a flutter symbol. A pity as some of the rock is nice and it is all at a nice angle!
roger whetton - 18/Jul/14
If you keep to the best bits (the Upper Tier and Cairn sector) the rock quality is excellent and some of the routes are amongst the best of their grade in the Peak: Ratline, Cairn, Four Telling Tales, Over the Hill, Power of Soul, Coral Seas and quite few others.
stp - 13/Jun/14
There really is a load of tosh talked about this crag."The water is toxic"! WTF its not a spa that's Buxton!You're going to climb not swim! Good routes, some very worthwhile especially on the upper tier.But fine believe the rubbish spouted if you wish it leaves it nice and quiet for the rest of us:)
andybirtwistle - 30/Jul/13
If you have defaulted on your mortgage, been declared bankrupt or you have been advised to give your shoe laces to your mates, then this is the place for you.......... If not then go somewhere else. Seriously. Any where else but here. The water is toxic. The routes are loose and the bolts are something out of popular mechanics 1902 edition.
sputnik - 30/Aug/12
Good area for a climb, we parked in the village and walked to the Quarry. The climbs are good although the ones we climbed did have some loose rock so Helmets are a must. As far as the bolts go they are in pretty good shape but we found the first bolts to be quite high! So much so on some of the climbs a fall from the bolt at chest height would have resulted in 2-3 metre fall. Otherwise A very good venue if you don't expect to much.
magicmartin - 30/May/12
Visited here on Saturday 26th. Would highly recommend that people follow the warnings on parking in the guide. The parking area was very very busy (although hardly any climbers were visible on the crag) and they were clamping and ticketing anything and everything outside of the designated areas.
mattwyles1 - 28/May/12
You can't park by the disused railway line, there are clamping warnings everywhere. We found a place further up the road past the karting track on the left.
Paul Hy - 19/Apr/12
A contender for the most dismal major sport venue in the country. A post-modern celebration of low expectation consumer demand and cruddy rock. Enjoy!
Bulls Crack - 02/Oct/11
Went there today for a look and a traverse around the rocks. Most of the quarry is bolted, creating endless opps for routes. Helmet may be a good idea on some routes as there is a lot of loose rubble at the top of some rocks. Dries very quickly, and extremely windy.
usherwoodm00 - 12/Nov/08
A lot of the routes on the Prophecy buttress have high first bolts and steep sloping ground below. Take extra care as a slip can result in a cartwheel down onto sharp rocks. Often worthwhile carrying a set of wires.
Chris the Tall - 07/Jun/04
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 19/Sep/2014
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