Climbs 155
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 322m a.s.l
Faces SW

Masterclass in the sun...(warning: long photo!) © Fraser

Crag features

Another great set of buttresses in a secluded setting, looking out towards the hill-top village of Gorbio. Access to the village is rather tortuous, though once the there, the crags are easily reached by a 15 minute near-horizontal walk. The crag is sunny and quite popular, especially at weekends. There is a good spread of grades, plenty of lovely rock and some big pitches to go at.

Sunny and sheltered, the crags make an excellent winter venue, though they are rather slow to dry after heavy rain. 

Approach notes

Exit the A8 at La Turbie and drive east towards Roquebrune on the D5264 for just over 6km, to a left turn for Gorbio. Weave up this for another 4km to the village - feeling car-sick yet? Turn right uphill at the roundabout and the parking is on the left. From the car park, take the track on the northern side - the Chemin du Doyen Pierre Rochard - to the old chapel. Past this, the track loops down to a bridge. Cross the bridge. Here there is a choice; either turn left then right through a gate to reach Sector La Balme, or turn right and continue for five minutes before branching steeply left up ladders and ropes to reach Sector Tonsai. A rough path connects the sectors.

Guidebooks

France : Côte d'Azur

Côte d'Azur covers the famous cliffs of Calanques, Sainte Victoire and the Verdon and also includes some of the great venues around Toulon, the sunniest city in France. Plus there is the popular winter venue of Châteauvert, the less well known Esterel and Châteaudouble area. Add in Saint Jeannet and a selection of cliffs in the Nice area and this will become an essential volume for any climber.
More info
More Guidebooks:
L'Escalade dans les Alpes-Maritimes (2010)
Best route to CHEZ MAURICE is to take the GR51 path past the signed exits then take a narrow unsigned left turn just before the path swings slightly right and downhill. This heads directly up to the right end of the crag.
rockman - 08/Nov/13
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

57Les Hauts de Gorbio
-
6b  
58Jour de Fièvre
-
6a+  
59Histoire d'o
-
6a+  
60Cousins, Cousines...
-
7a+  
61Le Laurier
-
5c  
 Sector du Diable 
63Couleur Café
-
6b+  
64L'associé du Diable
-
7a  
65Le Bateau Ivre
-
7a  
66Cicsou la Neige
-
6c+  
67Lobsodromie
-
7c  
68Hot Bird
-
6c  
69Sarbacane
-
6b+  
70Ego
-
6c  
71La Lune de Sabbah
-
5c  
 Sector Tonsai 
73Laab5c ***3
74Pad Thai5c ***1
75Califourchon5a ***6
76Le jouer de bloc5c ***9
77Perle d'eau claire6c *** 
78Tonsai7a ***2
79Presque rien6a+ **4
80L'homme des couleurs7a+ *** 
81La dérive des sentiments7b ***2
82Ma mélody6c ***2
 Sector Autoroute 8a 
84Dur6b ***3
85L'oreille cassée6c+ ** 
86Le grime était presque parfait6c+ ** 
87Bonzo6b ** 
88Autoroute 8a7b+ ***2
89Le chef d'expé6b ** 
90Club 545c **3
91Dgilou5a *1
92Les sentinelles de l'ombre5c * 
93Powerage7b+ **2
94Dalle elfique6a+ **2
95Paradoxe5a *2
96Farigoulette5a *1
 Sector Smoke 
98Qui s'y frotte s'y pique5c ** 
99La truite6a+ **1
100Couleur nuit sans rêve6a+ ***1
101Les impatients6a ***1
102Kaliméro6b ***1
103La taupière6a+ ***1
104Smoke on the water7b *** 
105Les cochons de claudine7a+ *** 
106Hystérésis7a *** 
107A prendre ou à lécher7c *** 
108L'enfer du décor7a+ *** 
109Annie Bal6a+ ** 
 Sector Al Dente 
111Il était une fois dans le Sud
-
6a  
112De ci de là
-
6a+  
113Fripouille
-
6a  
114Le Corps et l'esprit
-
6a  
115Summer Spirit
-
6b  
116Ainsi soit-elle
-
6b+  
117Kouros
-
6b+  
118Partir
-
5c  
119Les Saltimbanques
-
6b+  
120Nana
-
6c  
121Al Dente
-
6c+  
 Sector Chemin Faisant 
123Chemin Faisant
-
6a  
124Sniper
-
5c  
125L'art et la Manière
-
5a  
126Les 3 mulots
-
6b+  
127Isbjorn
-
7a+  
128Entre Deux
-
6b  
129Tournesol
-
6a  
130L'aigle Noir
-
7b+  
131Olympe
-
6b  
132Carpe Diem
-
5a  
133Gastibelza
-
6b+  
134Les Gestes pour le Faire
-
7a  
135Le Bear
-
7c  
 Sector Chez Maurice 
137Come Back
-
5c  
138Fourmiz
-
6a  
139Point trop n'en Faut
-
6c  
140Extrème Jonction
-
6a  
141Zazou
-
5c  
142Cascade
-
5a  
143Coté Jardin
-
6a  
144Singha5a 2
145Dolce Vita
-
5a  
146Terrain Vague
-
5c  
147Au Nom de la Lune
-
6a  
148Le Retour de Gérard Lambert
-
6c+  
149Borsalino
-
6b+  
150Dona
-
6a+  
151Parfum de Femme
-
6a  
152La Mauvaise Herbe
-
5c  
153Microcosmos
-
5c  
154Tinghir
-
5a  
155Le Premier Pas
-
5a  
156Patchamama
-
6b+  
157Le Bistrot
-
6a+  
158Jurrassik Bled
-
6a  
159La Veste5a 2
160Caruso
-
5c  
161Du Coté de chez Maurice
-
5a  
162Passé Simple
-
6b+  
 Sector Petit Bloc 
164L'ABC
-
5c  
165Après
-
5c  
166L'horizon
-
4a  
167Le Lézard Gris
-
4c  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83