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These details were last updated on 11/Sep/2012

Utby

Göteborg, SWEDEN

Climbs 150 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 117m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Utby, together with Fjällbo and Gärdsås, is the biggest and most popular crag complex in the Gothenburg area. These three crags are often collectively refered to as Utby. Even though it's popular it is unlikely you will need to queue for a climb.

Routes are between 10 and 25 meters on superb granite. Easy to walk/scramble to and from the top. Very nice scenery. Almost all routes are naturally protected, with just a handful of sport climbs and a few mixed routes.

The grades are here given as norwegian for trad climbs, but they are meant to be interpreted as the swedish grade. Traditionally the grades in the Gothenburg area are considered stiff, so a 6 (french 6b) is usually no laughing matter even for the experienced climber.

Access notes
Worth noting that if you do not speak Swedish and need a topo for only a short holiday, an excellent Topo is available from the site below. Google will translate... :) (use translation in conjunction with UKC descriptions)

http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Utby

Guidebooks
Klättring i Göteborg med omnejd (2006)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 GöMDA VäGGEN  
2Nagelsprickann6 *1
3Fingersprickann6- *1
4Brakkaminenn5 **1
5Moss Crackn5  
6Kristallväggenn5 * 
7Tåjammetn5 **1
 BAKTERIEVäGGEN  
 KöKSVäGGEN  
 RAGNHILDS NäSA  
11Tugga Knivarn7- 1
12Ragnhilds Näsan5+ **1
 SLABBEN  
14Olas Direkttransportn4+  
15Töjbara benetn4+  
16Bagarmossenn6  
17Dagen Eftern4+  
18Fars Dagn3 **3
19Skärseldenn4+ ***8
20Hurtigruttenn5- **6
21La Traviatan4+ ***8
22Flygande marann5 5a 6
23Undanflyktenn4 2
24Slab of Thirstn5- 4c 6
25Brännvinsledenn5+ 5b ***4
 RöNNLEDEN  
27Rönnledenn4+ 4c ***8
28Sneda sprickann5 **4
29Svåra Diedretn6- ***2
30Leepern5+ 2
31Tiöringenn4+ 1
 Climb nameGradex
 MONSTER CRACK  
33Monster laybackn6+ **2
 CRACK OF DOOM  
35Återvändsgrändenn6- **3
36Crack of Doomn6- ***4
 TILL  
38Tilln5- ***13
39Luftiga Stegetn5- ***12
 STORA VäGGEN  
41Tuborgn6+ ***4
42Kronenburgn7 ***2
 LIMBO  
44Boa Constrictorn6- **1
45Ants in my Pantsn6- **4
46Pandan6- ***2
47Vrålapann6- **2
48Babianenn4+ **4
49Babianen Direktn5+ ***4
 NöTTERNA 1  
51Mirceas ledn6 6a ***5
 NöTTERNA 2  
 ÖVRE VäGGEN  
54Spagatenn5+ 5b ***17
55Spagaten Direktn6- ***2
56Till Susannen7- **2
57Snett åt vänstern6 5b ***3
58Snett åt högern5+ 5b **15
 NöTTERNA 3  
 BOULDERING  
61Bögdödenf7A 1
Classifieds
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
A lovely crag 15 minutes drive outside Goteborg with an easy walk in.
JWB - 12/Aug/09