Climbs 152
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 98m a.s.l
Faces all

Nikolaj Hansen leads the classic route, Spagaten, at Utby. Göteborg, Sweden. © Ulrik Hasemann

Crag features

Utby, together with Fjällbo and Gärdsås, is the biggest and most popular crag complex in the Gothenburg area. These three crags are often collectively refered to as Utby. Even though it's popular it is unlikely you will need to queue for a climb.

Routes are between 10 and 25m on superb granite. Easy to walk/scramble to and from the top. Very nice scenery. Almost all routes are naturally protected, with just a handful of sport climbs and a few mixed routes.

The grades are here given as norwegian for trad climbs, but they are meant to be interpreted as the swedish grade. Traditionally the grades in the Gothenburg area are considered stiff, so a 6 (french 6b) is usually no laughing matter even for the experienced climber.

Good topos here:

https://27crags.com/crags/utby

http://www.sverigeforaren.se/listing/utby/

A lovely crag 15 minutes drive outside Goteborg with an easy walk in.
JWB - 12/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Gärdsås 
 Gärdsås / Jannes hörn 
3Star Trekn5  
4Kurtn7-  
5?n4+  
6Dolomiti
-
n5+ 2
7Svåra väggenn7-  
8Vårtecknetn5 1
9Kryckan
-
n5  
10Jannes Hörnn7- *1
11Kapten långfingern7-  
12Jennys grejn5+  
13Bikupan
-
n5+ 1
14Bitskn6+ 1
15Älgens överraskning
-
n5+ 10
16Luftmadrassen
-
n5+ 4
17Yesterday
-
n5  
18Toms överraskning
-
n5+ 3
19Set
-
n5+ 3
20Gamen5- 9
21Måndagens led
-
n3 5
22Fredagens led
-
n4 4
23Dominikas led
-
n4 4
24Jappen5 *13
25Jug
-
n5 14
26??n7+ 1
27Start och speedn6 *4
28Pi kuan
-
n5+ 3
29Sträckfisk
-
n7-  
30Lutfisk
-
n7  
31Tien-Tsin
-
n7 * 
32China corner
-
n6+  
33Centralpelaren
-
n6+ 1
34Travolta
-
n7 5
35Baryshnikov
-
n6 1
36Moses pendelton
-
n8-  
37Nurejev
-
n6+  
38Mowglin4+ 12
39Baloo
-
n4  
40Bagheera
-
n4+  
41Blåvitt
-
n6-  
42Elektricitet
-
n5 2
43Datamaskiner
-
n6-  
 Gömda väggen 
45Nagelsprickann6 *1
46Fingersprickann6- *2
47Brakkaminenn5 **1
48Moss Crackn5  
49Kristallväggenn5 * 
50Tåjammetn5 **2
 Bakterieväggen 
 Köksväggen 
 Utby / Ragnhilds näsa 
54Tugga Knivarn7- 1
55Ragnhilds Hakan5+ *1
56Ragnhilds Näsan5+ **3
 Slabben 
58Olas Direkttransportn4+  
59Töjbara benetn4+ 1
60Bagarmossenn6  
61Dagen Eftern4+  
62Fars Dagn3 **6
63Skärseldenn4+ ***16
64Hurtigruttenn5- **13
65La Traviatan4+ ***8
66Flygande marann5 10
67Undanflyktenn4 6
68Slab of Thirstn5- 11
69Brännvinsledenn5+ ***10
 Rönnleden 
71Rönnledenn4+ ***13
72Sneda sprickann5 **9
73Svåra Diedretn6- ***4
74Leepern5+ 2
75Tiöringenn4+ 1
76Fridstörarenn6 *1
 Monster Crack 
78Alfa Helixn5+ **2
79Monster laybackn6+ **2
 Crack of Doom 
81Återvändsgrändenn6- **3
82Crack of Doomn6- ***8
 Till 
84Tilln5- ***24
85Falkenn5+ *1
86Luftiga Stegetn5- ***18
 Stora väggen 
88Tuborgn6+ ***10
89Kronenburgn7 ***2
90Nelds kaminn5- *1
 Limbo 
92Boa Constrictorn6- **2
93Ants in my Pantsn6- **6
94Pandan6- ***4
95Spindelapann6- *1
96Vrålapann6- **4
97Babianenn4+ **11
98Babianen Direktn5+ ***7
 Nötterna 1 
100Mirceas ledn6 ***10
101Laybacksprickann5- 1
 Nötterna 2 
 Övre väggen 
104Tjabon4 1
105Spagatenn5+ ***30
106Spagaten Direktn6- ***4
107Till Susannen7- **4
108Snett åt vänstern6 ***4
109Snett åt högern5+ **21
110Torrsimmetn5- 2
 Nötterna 3 
 Bouldering 
113Ängsaretenf5 1
114Ängsareten Direktf5+ 1
115Jazzabyxaf5 1
116I'm Chevy Chase and Your Notf4 2
117Bögdödenf7A 1
 Moved climbs from Fjällbo 
 Koskenkorva 
120Chivas Regaln5 **7
121Koskenkorvan5 **6
122Drambuien5+ *5
123Gonzon5- 2
124Aquatic Apen5 1
125Sans och balansn5+ *1
126Smala ledenn5+ 1
 Ikaros 
128Yo-Yo Hörnetn6 1
 Hollywoodväggen 
130Beverly Hillsn7- *1
131Tjille Vingn7- **2
132Hollywoodn7- ***7
133Bob Hoppn6+ ***4
134Rosa på beten5+ *4
135Sabeldansn7 **1
136Hollywood IceWI-4 **1
 Slowfox 
138Tobleronen6+ ***2
139Slowfoxn5+ 5b **9
 Sahara 
 Rabiesväggen 
142Rabies7a **1
143Dynamo7a * 
144Batman7b+ **1
145Stopplikt6a+ *2
146Hästudden6b 2
147Trotskys hämnd (Trotskys revenge)WI-5 ***3
 Kenneths led 
149Spider Tonyn6- *1
150Kenneths snedstegn6- *1
151Sodomn5 *3
152Bohemian6- **3
153Kenneths ledn5 ***15
154Blue Trackn6 * 
155Blue Track (alt. finish)n5 *1
156Gomorran5- **8
157Nervtrasseln5 *1
 Bananblocket 
159Runt Hörnetn5- 3
160Oles crackn5+ *10
161Robins crackn5+ ***14
162Tunnsprickann5- ***5
163Bananblocketn6- ***13
164Stoppern6 **3
165Svarta Diedretn5+ **1
166Borta med vindenn5+ **2
 Café Stålborsten 
168Zoo-apann5 1
 Skivblocket 
170Gunnars skräckn5+ ***16
171Kantenn6 **4
172Bantarenn5+ **1
173Gladiatorn6b+ ***2
174Quo Vadisn6 2
175Neron6- **6
176Caligulan6- **8
177Limus bror Linusn3+ 1
 Rampen 
 Supertaket 
180Trappan5b *3
181Start6a 1
182Pinnakeln
-
6b+ ** 
183Alfa Caentauri6a 1
 Glömda väggen 
 Moved climbs from Gärdsås 
 Moved climbs 

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