Climbs 150
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 98m a.s.l
Faces all

Nikolaj Hansen leads the classic route, Spagaten, at Utby. Göteborg, Sweden. © Ulrik Hasemann

Crag features

Utby, together with Fjällbo and Gärdsås, is the biggest and most popular crag complex in the Gothenburg area. These three crags are often collectively refered to as Utby. Even though it's popular it is unlikely you will need to queue for a climb.

Routes are between 10 and 25m on superb granite. Easy to walk/scramble to and from the top. Very nice scenery. Almost all routes are naturally protected, with just a handful of sport climbs and a few mixed routes.

The grades are here given as norwegian for trad climbs, but they are meant to be interpreted as the swedish grade. Traditionally the grades in the Gothenburg area are considered stiff, so a 6 (french 6b) is usually no laughing matter even for the experienced climber.

Good topos here:

https://27crags.com/crags/utby

http://www.sverigeforaren.se/listing/utby/

A lovely crag 15 minutes drive outside Goteborg with an easy walk in.
JWB - 12/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Gärdsås 
 Gärdsås / Jannes hörn 
 Gömda väggen 
4Nagelsprickann6 *1
5Fingersprickann6- *2
6Brakkaminenn5 **1
7Moss Crackn5  
8Kristallväggenn5 * 
9Tåjammetn5 **2
 Bakterieväggen 
 Köksväggen 
 Ragnhilds näsa 
13Tugga Knivarn7- 1
14Ragnhilds Näsan5+ **3
 Slabben 
16Olas Direkttransportn4+  
17Töjbara benetn4+ 1
18Bagarmossenn6  
19Dagen Eftern4+  
20Fars Dagn3 **3
21Skärseldenn4+ ***16
22Hurtigruttenn5- **13
23La Traviatan4+ ***8
24Flygande marann5 10
25Undanflyktenn4 3
26Slab of Thirstn5- 9
27Brännvinsledenn5+ ***10
 Rönnleden 
29Rönnledenn4+ ***12
30Sneda sprickann5 **9
31Svåra Diedretn6- ***4
32Leepern5+ 2
33Tiöringenn4+ 1
34Fridstörarenn6 *1
 Monster Crack 
36Alfa Helixn5+ **2
37Monster laybackn6+ **2
 Crack of Doom 
39Återvändsgrändenn6- **3
40Crack of Doomn6- ***8
 Till 
42Tilln5- ***24
43Falkenn5+ *1
44Luftiga Stegetn5- ***18
 Stora väggen 
46Tuborgn6+ ***10
47Kronenburgn7 ***2
48Nelds kaminn5- *1
 Limbo 
50Boa Constrictorn6- **2
51Ants in my Pantsn6- **6
52Pandan6- ***4
53Spindelapann6- *1
54Vrålapann6- **4
55Babianenn4+ **11
56Babianen Direktn5+ ***7
 Nötterna 1 
58Mirceas ledn6 ***9
59Laybacksprickann5- 1
 Nötterna 2 
 Övre väggen 
62Tjabon4 1
63Spagatenn5+ ***30
64Spagaten Direktn6- ***4
65Till Susannen7- **4
66Snett åt vänstern6 ***3
67Snett åt högern5+ **20
68Torrsimmetn5- 2
 Nötterna 3 
 Bouldering 
71Bögdödenf7A 1
 Moved climbs from Fjällbo 
 Koskenkorva 
74Chivas Regaln5 **7
75Koskenkorvan5 **5
76Drambuien5+ *5
77Gonzon5- 2
78Aquatic Apen5 1
79Sans och balansn5+ *1
80Smala ledenn5+ 1
 Ikaros 
82Yo-Yo Hörnetn6 1
 Hollywoodväggen 
84Beverly Hillsn7- *1
85Tjille Vingn7- **2
86Hollywoodn7- ***7
87Bob Hoppn6+ ***4
88Rosa på beten5+ *2
89Sabeldansn7 **1
90Hollywood IceWI-4 **1
 Slowfox 
92Tobleronen6+ ***2
93Slowfoxn5+ 5b **9
 Sahara 
 Rabiesväggen 
96Rabies7a **1
97Dynamo7a * 
98Batman7b+ **1
99Stopplikt6a+ *2
100Hästudden6b 2
101Trotskys hämnd (Trotskys revenge)WI-5 ***3
 Kenneths led 
103Spider Tonyn6- *1
104Kenneths snedstegn6- *1
105Sodomn5 *2
106Bohemian6- **3
107Kenneths ledn5 ***15
108Blue Trackn6 * 
109Blue Track (alt. finish)n5 *1
110Gomorran5- **8
111Nervtrasseln5 *1
 Bananblocket 
113Runt Hörnetn5- 3
114Oles crackn5+ *10
115Robins crackn5+ ***12
116Tunnsprickann5- ***5
117Bananblocketn6- ***12
118Stoppern6 **3
119Svarta Diedretn5+ **1
120Borta med vindenn5+ **2
 Café Stålborsten 
122Zoo-apann5 1
 Skivblocket 
124Gunnars skräckn5+ ***16
125Kantenn6 **3
126Bantarenn5+ **1
127Gladiatorn6b+ ***2
128Quo Vadisn6 2
129Neron6- **5
130Caligulan6- **7
131Limus bror Linusn3+ 1
 Rampen 
 Supertaket 
134Trappan5b *1
135Start6a 1
136Pinnakeln
-
6b+ ** 
137Alfa Caentauri6a 1
 Glömda väggen 
 Moved climbs from Gärdsås 
140Star Trekn5  
141Kurtn7-  
142?n4+  
143Dolomiti
-
n5+ 2
144Svåra väggenn7-  
145Vårtecknetn5 1
146Kryckan
-
n5  
147Jannes Hörnn7- *1
148Kapten långfingern7-  
149Jennys grejn5+  
150Bikupan
-
n5+ 1
151Bitsk *n6+ 1
152Älgens överraskning
-
n5+ 10
153Luftmadrassen
-
n5+ 4
154Yesterday
-
n5  
155Toms överraskning
-
n5+ 3
156Set
-
n5+ 3
157Gamen5- 9
158Måndagens led
-
n3 5
159Fredagens led
-
n4 4
160Dominikas led
-
n4 4
161Jappen5 *13
162Jug
-
n5 14
163??n7+ 1
164Start och speedn6 *4
165Pi kuan
-
n5+ 3
166Sträckfisk
-
n7-  
167Lutfisk
-
n7  
168Tien-Tsin
-
n7 * 
169China corner
-
n6+  
170Centralpelaren
-
n6+ 1
171Travolta
-
n7 5
172Baryshnikov
-
n6 1
173Moses pendelton
-
n8-  
174Nurejev
-
n6+  
175Mowglin4+ 12
176Baloo
-
n4  
177Bagheera
-
n4+  
178Blåvitt
-
n6-  
179Elektricitet
-
n5 2
180Datamaskiner
-
n6-  
 Moved climbs 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mr Andersson