Climbs 150
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 117m a.s.l
Faces S

Nikolaj Hansen leads the classic route, Spagaten, at Utby. Göteborg, Sweden. © Ulrik Hasemann

Crag features

Utby, together with Fjällbo and Gärdsås, is the biggest and most popular crag complex in the Gothenburg area. These three crags are often collectively refered to as Utby. Even though it's popular it is unlikely you will need to queue for a climb.

Routes are between 10 and 25 meters on superb granite. Easy to walk/scramble to and from the top. Very nice scenery. Almost all routes are naturally protected, with just a handful of sport climbs and a few mixed routes.

The grades are here given as norwegian for trad climbs, but they are meant to be interpreted as the swedish grade. Traditionally the grades in the Gothenburg area are considered stiff, so a 6 (french 6b) is usually no laughing matter even for the experienced climber.

Approach notes

Worth noting that if you do not speak Swedish and need a topo for only a short holiday, an excellent Topo is available from the site below. Google will translate... :) (use translation in conjunction with UKC descriptions)

A lovely crag 15 minutes drive outside Goteborg with an easy walk in.
JWB - 12/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Gömda väggen 
2Nagelsprickann6 *1
3Fingersprickann6- *1
4Brakkaminenn5 **1
5Moss Crackn5  
6Kristallväggenn5 * 
7Tåjammetn5 **1
 Ragnhilds näsa 
11Tugga Knivarn7- 1
12Ragnhilds Näsan5+ **2
14Olas Direkttransportn4+  
15Töjbara benetn4+ 1
17Dagen Eftern4+  
18Fars Dagn3 **3
19Skärseldenn4+ ***13
20Hurtigruttenn5- **12
21La Traviatan4+ ***8
22Flygande marann5 8
23Undanflyktenn4 3
24Slab of Thirstn5- 7
25Brännvinsledenn5+ ***7
27Rönnledenn4+ ***10
28Sneda sprickann5 **6
29Svåra Diedretn6- ***3
30Leepern5+ 2
31Tiöringenn4+ 1
32Fridstörarenn6 *1
 Monster Crack 
34Alfa Helix *n5+ **1
35Monster laybackn6+ **2
 Crack of Doom 
37Återvändsgrändenn6- **3
38Crack of Doomn6- ***7
40Tilln5- ***18
41Luftiga Stegetn5- ***15
 Stora väggen 
43Tuborgn6+ ***7
44Kronenburgn7 ***2
45Nelds kaminn5- *1
47Boa Constrictorn6- **2
48Ants in my Pantsn6- **5
49Pandan6- ***4
50Spindelapann6- *1
51Vrålapann6- **3
52Babianenn4+ **9
53Babianen Direktn5+ ***6
 Nötterna 1 
55Mirceas ledn6 ***6
 Nötterna 2 
 Övre väggen 
58Spagatenn5+ ***24
59Spagaten Direktn6- ***3
60Till Susannen7- **2
61Snett åt vänstern6 ***3
62Snett åt högern5+ **19
63Torrsimmetn5- 1
 Nötterna 3 
66Bögdödenf7A 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mr Andersson