Climbs 150 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 117m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Utby, together with Fjällbo and Gärdsås, is the biggest and most popular crag complex in the Gothenburg area. These three crags are often collectively refered to as Utby. Even though it's popular it is unlikely you will need to queue for a climb.

Routes are between 10 and 25 meters on superb granite. Easy to walk/scramble to and from the top. Very nice scenery. Almost all routes are naturally protected, with just a handful of sport climbs and a few mixed routes.

The grades are here given as norwegian for trad climbs, but they are meant to be interpreted as the swedish grade. Traditionally the grades in the Gothenburg area are considered stiff, so a 6 (french 6b) is usually no laughing matter even for the experienced climber.

Approach notes
Worth noting that if you do not speak Swedish and need a topo for only a short holiday, an excellent Topo is available from the site below. Google will translate... :) (use translation in conjunction with UKC descriptions)


Klättring i Göteborg med omnejd (2006)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Nagelsprickann6 *1
3Fingersprickann6- *1
4Brakkaminenn5 **1
5Moss Crackn5  
6Kristallväggenn5 * 
7Tåjammetn5 **1
11Tugga Knivarn7- 1
12Ragnhilds Näsan5+ **2
14Olas Direkttransportn4+  
15Töjbara benetn4+ 1
17Dagen Eftern4+  
18Fars Dagn3 **3
19Skärseldenn4+ ***12
20Hurtigruttenn5- **11
21La Traviatan4+ ***8
22Flygande marann5 7
23Undanflyktenn4 3
24Slab of Thirstn5- 7
25Brännvinsledenn5+ ***7
27Rönnledenn4+ ***10
28Sneda sprickann5 **5
29Svåra Diedretn6- ***3
30Leepern5+ 2
31Tiöringenn4+ 1
32Fridstörarenn6 *1
34Monster laybackn6+ **2
36Återvändsgrändenn6- **3
37Crack of Doomn6- ***6
39Tilln5- ***18
40Luftiga Stegetn5- ***15
42Tuborgn6+ ***6
43Kronenburgn7 ***2
44Nelds kaminn5- *1
46Boa Constrictorn6- **2
47Ants in my Pantsn6- **5
48Pandan6- ***4
49Spindelapann6- *1
50Vrålapann6- **3
51Babianenn4+ **9
52Babianen Direktn5+ ***6
54Mirceas ledn6 ***6
57Spagatenn5+ ***23
58Spagaten Direktn6- ***3
59Till Susannen7- **2
60Snett åt vänstern6 ***3
61Snett åt högern5+ **19
65Bögdödenf7A 1
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A lovely crag 15 minutes drive outside Goteborg with an easy walk in.
JWB - 12/Aug/09