Utby

Climbs 150 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 117m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Utby, together with Fjällbo and Gärdsås, is the biggest and most popular crag complex in the Gothenburg area. These three crags are often collectively refered to as Utby. Even though it's popular it is unlikely you will need to queue for a climb.

Routes are between 10 and 25 meters on superb granite. Easy to walk/scramble to and from the top. Very nice scenery. Almost all routes are naturally protected, with just a handful of sport climbs and a few mixed routes.

The grades are here given as norwegian for trad climbs, but they are meant to be interpreted as the swedish grade. Traditionally the grades in the Gothenburg area are considered stiff, so a 6 (french 6b) is usually no laughing matter even for the experienced climber.

Access notes
Worth noting that if you do not speak Swedish and need a topo for only a short holiday, an excellent Topo is available from the site below. Google will translate... :) (use translation in conjunction with UKC descriptions)

http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Utby

Guidebooks
Klättring i Göteborg med omnejd (2006)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 GöMDA VäGGEN  
2Nagelsprickann6 *1
3Fingersprickann6- *1
4Brakkaminenn5 **1
5Moss Crackn5  
6Kristallväggenn5 * 
7Tåjammetn5 **1
 BAKTERIEVäGGEN  
 KöKSVäGGEN  
 RAGNHILDS NäSA  
11Tugga Knivarn7- 1
12Ragnhilds Näsan5+ **2
 SLABBEN  
14Olas Direkttransportn4+  
15Töjbara benetn4+ 1
16Bagarmossenn6  
17Dagen Eftern4+  
18Fars Dagn3 **3
19Skärseldenn4+ ***11
20Hurtigruttenn5- **10
21La Traviatan4+ ***8
22Flygande marann5 6
23Undanflyktenn4 2
24Slab of Thirstn5- 7
25Brännvinsledenn5+ ***7
 RöNNLEDEN  
27Rönnledenn4+ ***9
28Sneda sprickann5 **5
29Svåra Diedretn6- ***3
30Leepern5+ 2
31Tiöringenn4+ 1
32Fridstörarenn6 *1
 MONSTER CRACK  
34Monster laybackn6+ **2
 CRACK OF DOOM  
36Återvändsgrändenn6- **3
37Crack of Doomn6- ***5
 TILL  
39Tilln5- ***15
40Luftiga Stegetn5- ***13
 STORA VäGGEN  
42Tuborgn6+ ***5
43Kronenburgn7 ***2
 LIMBO  
45Boa Constrictorn6- **1
46Ants in my Pantsn6- **5
47Pandan6- ***3
48Vrålapann6- **2
49Babianenn4+ **5
50Babianen Direktn5+ ***4
 NöTTERNA 1  
52Mirceas ledn6 ***5
 NöTTERNA 2  
 ÖVRE VäGGEN  
55Spagatenn5+ ***19
56Spagaten Direktn6- ***3
57Till Susannen7- **2
58Snett åt vänstern6 ***3
59Snett åt högern5+ **16
 NöTTERNA 3  
 BOULDERING  
62Bögdödenf7A 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
A lovely crag 15 minutes drive outside Goteborg with an easy walk in.
JWB - 12/Aug/09