Climbs 20
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 248m a.s.l
Faces SE

Crag features

Tucked away in the centre of the Estérel is this fine, rocky peak that got a great deal of attention from the early pioneers; several of the routes were put up in the early 1970s as true adventure outings. Many of their ancient pegs, concreted wire loops and huge painted arrows are still visible on the cliff. As elsewhere in the area, the better quality routes have been bolted, giving them a new lease of life. Despite this, the cliffs are rarely busy, indeed, the likelihood is that you will have the place to yourself.

The peak juts up enough to catch any wind that is going, a plus in hot weather and a minus when the Mistral is blowing. The main (southeast) face goes into the shade in the early afternoon. The crag takes little drainage and drys quickly.

Approach notes

Leave the motorway at J37 or 38 and follow signs for Fréjus. Before you enter Fréjus, turn left at a roundabout (signed 'Saint-Raphaël') to avoid the town. Continue along this road heading roughly straight on around both Fréjus and Saint-Raphaël until you pick up signs for 'Agay'. Continue towards Agay on the D100, past some golf courses. About 1km north of Agay, look out for a small road on the left, just past a field of vines and north of a big bend, signed 'Massif de l'Estérel' and turn into this. Take the only left turn to reach a roundabout and parking at the end of the road. The crag is visible from here; take the good track that runs towards it. It crosses a stream at a high stone-bridge, then bends sharply leftwards. About 170m along here on the right is an old boulder-strewn car park, and 70m beyond this a good track branches back rightwards uphill. Follow this to a minor left fork (cairn) which weaves up the hill to eventually reach a rocky area. Head out right (not obvious) to locate the continuation track that soon arrives at a col at the left-hand toe of the cliff.

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Guidebooks

France : Côte d'Azur

Côte d'Azur covers the famous cliffs of Calanques, Sainte Victoire and the Verdon and also includes some of the great venues around Toulon, the sunniest city in France. Plus there is the popular winter venue of Châteauvert, the less well known Esterel and Châteaudouble area. Add in Saint Jeannet and a selection of cliffs in the Nice area and this will become an essential volume for any climber.
More info
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Road is closed to old car park adding an extra km to walk. Walk in is up to an hour and beware instruction in rockfax, difficult to find the correct path. Keep left at the cairn and keep a look out for a very rough track that is the path up to the crag. Also wild boar about so be careful. Named Routes are difficult to find on the crag as well.
Sheila - 07/Sep/13
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Climbs at this crag

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