Back Tor (Edale) Derbyshire, ENGLAND
Climbs 5 – Rocktype Shale – Altitude 380m a.s.l – Faces N
Crag on the north side of Back Tor, similar to Mam Tor but shorter and much more stable! At its best in frozen conditions, although people have been known to climb here in summer, despite the copious loose rock, mud and vegetation. Back Tor Gully is the obvious central feature of the crag and goes at around grade II/III in winter and is highly conditions dependant due to the fickle nature of cold spells at this altitude in this location; a traditional summer grade of VDiff has been previously suggested although those expecting to employ traditional climbing techniques during its ascent may be disappointed. The nebulous face to the right is made from a series of short but steep bands of shale overtopped with heather and moor-grass. This has traditionally been given the same grade but is actually harder (probably at least Severe/III/IV involving torquing cracks in winter). Further right again the angle eases slightly and one can work around steeper sections if necessary to pick lines at the desired grade.
Approach from Castleton, Hope or Edale via various bridlepaths up to the Lose Hill-Mam Tor ridge. Edale approach is shortest, via path that runs past Backtor Farm - about 20 minutes. Others approaches ca. 30-40 minutes.
No access issues.
Scrambles in the Dark Peak (2012), Over the Moors (2012),
Out of print: Rock Climbing in thge Peak District (1987)
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