Altitude 437m a.s.l
The Bleak District - Looking to Win Hill and Kinder from High Neb © Nicholas Livesey
Stanage North is the first section of the cliff to be described, and the least popular of the three main sections. It runs from the Long Causeway all the way out to End Slab, and apart from High Neb and Crow Chin the whole area is normally pretty quiet. It lacks the heaped classics of the Plantation and the Popular End but there is plenty of good climbing here, in a remoter feeling setting than the rest of the cliff, and with a greater chance of solitude.
The right-hand half of this section of the edge faces south-west and catches the sun from the mid-morning onwards. It is exposed to any bad weather but dries quickly after rain although a few routes can be a bit green and sandy. Further left the cliff swings round to face due west, it gets the sun later in the day, and is greener in the winter. Midges can be a problem in the late spring and summer when the wind drops.
The High Neb parking is the usual starting place - it is rarely full except on sunny summer weekends. The Long Causeway leads towards the cliff then bears away rightwards towards western Sheffield. A couple of stiles on the lead steeply to a good horizontal track that runs below the whole of this section of the cliff. It is also possible to approach from the A57 from very limited parking near the crest of the hill. This is the quickest approach for the crags near Stanage End.
Stanage is one of the most frequented crags in the world. On busy weekends parking can be a problem and the PDNPA have introduced a series of traffic management measures to address this. This includes creating formal parking areas, roadside bunds and reduced speed limits. There are now 310 formal parking spaces on the North Lees Estate which should be sufficient on all but the busiest weekends. The PDNPA and The BMC set up a management structure for consulting with users of the Stanage area. The ‘Stanage Forum’, a series of open meetings gives climbers and walkers an opportunity to have a say in the management of the estate. Details available from the BMC. There are problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
|good, quiet and underestimated part of stanage.|
antoniusblock - 22/May/10