Altitude 437m a.s.l
Quietus Right Hand © Apharri
Stanage North is the first section of the cliff to be described, and the least popular of the three main sections. It runs from the Long Causeway all the way out to End Slab, and apart from High Neb and Crow Chin the whole area is normally pretty quiet. It lacks the heaped classics of the Plantation and the Popular End but there is plenty of good climbing here, in a remoter feeling setting than the rest of the cliff, and with a greater chance of solitude.
The right-hand half of this section of the edge faces south-west and catches the sun from the mid-morning onwards. It is exposed to any bad weather but dries quickly after rain although a few routes can be a bit green and sandy. Further left the cliff swings round to face due west, it gets the sun later in the day, and is greener in the winter. Midges can be a problem in the late spring and summer when the wind drops.
The High Neb parking is the usual starting place - it is rarely full except on sunny summer weekends. The Long Causeway leads towards the cliff then bears away rightwards towards western Sheffield. A couple of stiles on the lead steeply to a good horizontal track that runs below the whole of this section of the cliff. It is also possible to approach from the A57 from very limited parking near the crest of the hill. This is the quickest approach for the crags near Stanage End.
|good, quiet and underestimated part of stanage.|
antoniusblock - 22/May/10