UKC Logbook - 'The Arete'

25m.

Rockfax Description
The best route in the quarry follows the fine arete. Make tricky starting moves past some unconvincing wires/micro cams to gain the break. Finish more easily up the arete to the ledge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
E1 5b in the BMC guide

FA. G.R.Fiddles, A.T.Braddock 1959.

Ticklists

Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak

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User	Date		Notes
Rob M	19 Sep, 2020	Show βeta βeta: My first E1 & first anything above VS for that matter. I top roped it afew times, the last of which without moving my ascender from 2m from the floor - a very silly idea as it made no difference, I still had to come back & lead it to say I'd done it right. Afew guys from down Stoke way at the crag on the day kindly belayed me. As far as the route goes, it's a one move 5a/ 5b wonder & if you place a number 4 wire into the back of the crack, turn it 90deg & pul it forward you're safe on the crux. Beyond that, there is potential for a ground fall but it's hard 4c from the crux onward in my opinion. I love this climb, I'm suprised mitre cracks sees so many ascents yet this sees so few but then it's easy for me to love it, I knew it intricately when I lead it!... I'll say with my hand on my heart, it's a low E1 with that wire & just for example, I'd happily lead this again over leading antidigestant which last time I looked only gets HVS bizarrely!
Show beta βeta: My first E1 & first anything above VS for that matter. I top roped it afew times, the last of which without moving my ascender from 2m from the floor - a very silly idea as it made no difference, I still had to come back & lead it to say I'd done it right. Afew guys from down Stoke way at the crag on the day kindly belayed me. As far as the route goes, it's a one move 5a/ 5b wonder & if you place a number 4 wire into the back of the crack, turn it 90deg & pul it forward you're safe on the crux. Beyond that, there is potential for a ground fall but it's hard 4c from the crux onward in my opinion. I love this climb, I'm suprised mitre cracks sees so many ascents yet this sees so few but then it's easy for me to love it, I knew it intricately when I lead it!... I'll say with my hand on my heart, it's a low E1 with that wire & just for example, I'd happily lead this again over leading antidigestant which last time I looked only gets HVS bizarrely!
msjhes2	2 Jun, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Descent off the top was fine and the via ferrata cable is there, although it still looks like it is killing some trees. It is worth dropping a rope above mitre crack for belaying. This works well if you are doing a few routes on that wall as you can abb down and avoid the chose.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Descent off the top was fine and the via ferrata cable is there, although it still looks like it is killing some trees. It is worth dropping a rope above mitre crack for belaying. This works well if you are doing a few routes on that wall as you can abb down and avoid the chose.
Andy Reeve	30 Jul, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Ooh Fiend! Lay off the poor route! Must disagree, gear didn't find to be fiddly at all, good nut right on time for the (albeit) crux, bit of a stretch but my mate (who lead the route) is a short arse and didn't grumble at all. Nice moves and a good line imo.
Show beta βeta: Ooh Fiend! Lay off the poor route! Must disagree, gear didn't find to be fiddly at all, good nut right on time for the (albeit) crux, bit of a stretch but my mate (who lead the route) is a short arse and didn't grumble at all. Nice moves and a good line imo.
Chris the Tall	2 Aug, 2004	Show βeta βeta: Bottom end E1 but very pleasant. The polish isn't an issue as long as your technique is up to scratch.
Show beta βeta: Bottom end E1 but very pleasant. The polish isn't an issue as long as your technique is up to scratch.