Climbs 4
Rocktype Ice
Altitude 5844m a.s.l
Faces all
Sunset on Alpamayo, 5,947m © tombushell
Crag features
Alpamayo was described as the most beautiful mountain in the world, and doesn't disappoint. It has a distinctive face that has many snow fluting running to the summit ridge. The popular route was the Ferrari Route, but the French Direct, going direct to the summit, is now preferred as it has less danger from seracs.
Approach notes
Get to the head of the valley from Huaraz by taxi (expensive) or take buses as close as you can go and take a taxi the remainder of the way (cheaper). Donkeys and porters can be arrangesd here if required for the 1 long, or two slow days (better for acclimatising) to the base camp, which has a long drop toilet, shop for basics (and beer!) where tents and bags can be left while at higher camps. Morraine camp is about 2 hours up from base camp and just before the glacier (good for acclimatising). To get to high camp, head up the glacier and climb a gully just left of a rock buttress to the breathtaking view of the mountain from the col. Camp just over the col.
| The individual crags are there already and there is no need for this page. jonnie3430 - 17/Nov/11 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer jonnie3430