UKC

300m, 10 pitches. A nice yet somewhat inhomogeneous route which takes a direct line up the impressive water grooved slabs on the Alpspitze. The first two pitches are significantly harder than any of the neighbouring routes with pitch 1 (VII-) being the crux requiring steep and powerful climbing through some overhanging terrain on sharp holds. Pitch 2 (VI+) requires some skill in order to move gracefully up through the shallow water grooves - strong fingers won't help you here! Rather, a good feel for smearing on close to non-existent footholds is key to make it through. The remaining 8 pitches are a lot easier. The route finishes at the large scree ledge half way up the main wall. If you have enough time (and motiviation) the AdamPlatte (IV-) leads to the summit over 8 pitches of easy yet runout slabs which starts just above the "Herze" a heart shaped patch of snow which remains through much of the summer season. The route is perfectly bolted unlike many of the other routes on Alpspitze - no nuts of friends are required.

G. Durner and S. Klotz 2018.

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High VII
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High VII-
Mid VII-
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High VI+
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Route of Interest
Steil ist Geil

Grade: VII- ***
(Göll)

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