120m, 5 pitches.
Fantastic route across the Watchtower slabs at a reasonable grade.
P1 (12) As for Watchtower Crack to spacious belay ledge, easy but bold slab to right of crack.
P2 (13) Climb the crack at the back of the belay ledge, then branch right up towards the overlap above. Before reaching it make an awkward step right to gain a good ledge. Walk right to bolted belay (as for Auto De Fe).
P3 (14) Step right off the ledge and climb the short, but bold slab to reach another bolted belay on the ledge just above (as for Fly Lichen Eagle).
P4 (14) Pleasant climbing rightwards up the big diagonal flake which finishes with an awkward chimney section to reach the tree on the good ledge above.
P5 (12) Climb the wall above the right-hand edge of the ledge to easy ground, then the juggy wall to the right of the deep crack above.
P1 (12) As for Watchtower Crack to spacious belay ledge, easy but bold slab to right of crack.
P2 (13) Climb the crack at the back of the belay ledge, then branch right up towards the overlap above. Before reaching it make an awkward step right to gain a good ledge. Walk right to bolted belay (as for Auto De Fe).
P3 (14) Step right off the ledge and climb the short, but bold slab to reach another bolted belay on the ledge just above (as for Fly Lichen Eagle).
P4 (14) Pleasant climbing rightwards up the big diagonal flake which finishes with an awkward chimney section to reach the tree on the good ledge above.
P5 (12) Climb the wall above the right-hand edge of the ledge to easy ground, then the juggy wall to the right of the deep crack above.
John Fahey, Peter Jackson & Bob Bull 19/Dec/1964.
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Guidebooks for Arapiles - The Watchtower Faces
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Route of Interest
Lamplighter
Grade: 14 ***
(Arapiles - The Pharos)