30m.
The Magician is a fun new route on the left side of Tarot Wall. The route involves a crack, face, arete, and overhang on superb rock. There are several variations, and the route can be done as a 5.9 or a 5.10.
Start on the left side of Tarot Wall, left of Earth Angel and Ah Ya Punter. There are two bolts on the face just right of the arete. This is the route. The two bolts mark the direct start, which is 5.10.
Climb the corner before transferring onto the face (there are several alternatives). Note that you will need to place some additional protection as there is a large gap between bolts, enough that a ground fall would be inevitable. As a minimum, take a set of cams up to #4. Near the top follow the bolts to the anchor.
A lovely route with a touch of adventure.
Start on the left side of Tarot Wall, left of Earth Angel and Ah Ya Punter. There are two bolts on the face just right of the arete. This is the route. The two bolts mark the direct start, which is 5.10.
Climb the corner before transferring onto the face (there are several alternatives). Note that you will need to place some additional protection as there is a large gap between bolts, enough that a ground fall would be inevitable. As a minimum, take a set of cams up to #4. Near the top follow the bolts to the anchor.
A lovely route with a touch of adventure.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
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Route of Interest
Big Bob Cranks
Grade: 5.9 ***
(Dinosaur Rock)