UKC

60m, 3 pitches. Excellent climbing, taking a direct line up the steep and impressive ground between Fight or Flight and Bombs Away. Start 2m right of the toe of the buttress. 1. 25m Climb the steep wall then easier ground to a short square-cut chimney leading through a roof. Climb this, then move up and right on blocks and flakes to the ledge below the steep wall at the top of pitch 2 of Bombs Away. 2. 25m Climb the compelling steep crack in the wall, moving slightly left at its top (strenuous but well protected). Move up and right to a niche, junction with Bombs Away, but then continue immediately straight up to below the impressive capping roofs. Climb directly through these at a surprisingly amenable grade to reach a small alcove just below the skyline. Exit the alcove in a superb position with a steep pull top easier ground. 3. 10m Easier ground to the top of the buttress.

Malcolm Bass & Simon Yearsley 25/Jan/2009.

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Route of Interest
Lobby Dancer

Grade: VI 6 ***
(Ben Nevis)

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