User | Date | Notes | ||
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westaway | 29 Apr, 2018 |
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βeta: P1 - VS/HVS 4c/5a P2 - fairly hard E3 5c, P3 - great pitch E1/2 5b, P4 horrendous dangerous sandbag E4/5 5c, P5 - very entertaining but completely ungradable. The 4th pitch if climbed up the 'obvious groove' a fall from crumbly flakes would result in a massive fall onto ledges, if successful mantle over moss (don't fall!) onto a crumbly sloping ledge (I nearly committed to this, very glad I didn't after seeing it from above!) to reach a belay on 2 shallow wires, and, if you have one a giant cam (camalot 4 or bigger) shoved in a crack behind a clod of turf. Instead of doing the 'obvious groove' I traversed further left with very little gear to get a small cam, I then mantled onto slightly less crumbly flakes (still easily 5c climbing, with only a broken legs fall should you fail) after 'cleaning' the top cm or so of rotten granite, to gain the far LH end of the narrow ledge, I then teetered rightwards on sloping turf with no gear till the 'interesting' belay, the rope drag was ridculous towards the end and the second had to retrieve the gear in extremis before traversing back right and being hauled over the last section onto the belay. Would be a great and very entertaining route except for pitch 4, we had a good time but be warned! | βeta? | |
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βeta: P1 - VS/HVS 4c/5a P2 - fairly hard E3 5c, P3 - great pitch E1/2 5b, P4 horrendous dangerous sandbag E4/5 5c, P5 - very entertaining but completely ungradable. The 4th pitch if climbed up the 'obvious groove' a fall from crumbly flakes would result in a massive fall onto ledges, if successful mantle over moss (don't fall!) onto a crumbly sloping ledge (I nearly committed to this, very glad I didn't after seeing it from above!) to reach a belay on 2 shallow wires, and, if you have one a giant cam (camalot 4 or bigger) shoved in a crack behind a clod of turf. Instead of doing the 'obvious groove' I traversed further left with very little gear to get a small cam, I then mantled onto slightly less crumbly flakes (still easily 5c climbing, with only a broken legs fall should you fail) after 'cleaning' the top cm or so of rotten granite, to gain the far LH end of the narrow ledge, I then teetered rightwards on sloping turf with no gear till the 'interesting' belay, the rope drag was ridculous towards the end and the second had to retrieve the gear in extremis before traversing back right and being hauled over the last section onto the belay. Would be a great and very entertaining route except for pitch 4, we had a good time but be warned! |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Beinn Tarsuinn)