UKC

14m. It is possible to bypass the worst of the suspect rock around the rock scar of Chicken Finger by moving right at the base of the rock scar, following jugs, to gain a large mossy ledge and the sound crack of The Despondent Chicken 1.5m to the right. Follow the crack to its top and then step carefully left across the corner to gain the right edge of the flake. Although not as good it avoids tackling the suspect blocks from below.

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Guidebooks for Burley Woodhead Quarry

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Route of Interest
Crutch

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Hetchell)

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