120m, 3 pitches.
An excellent climb utilising the most continues clean rock on the face. The initial 60m pitch leading to the terrace drys quickly after rain due to it being completely devoid of any vegetation. A unique attribute at this crag when other climbs are affected by seepage. Descent can be made left off the terrace. The initial pitch climbs the centre of the 60m tongue of rock. The upper section climbs the big corner crack system that breaks through the overhanging head wall.
1. 60m. 4c. Start as for Mystic and Central grooves. Ascend directly up the middle of the slab. Over bulge and climb the overlap centrally via a small triangular niche. Crux. Continue up the centre of the face on small indentations and pockets to reach the big block belay (Central grooves) at the terrace. A fantastic pitch with the difficult sections protected but the easier ones run out.
2. 30m. 4b. Directly behind the belay across the terrace. Climb a short wall onto a sloping granite shelf. Follow this right to below an obvious small, short corner and climb this to give access onto the upper slab. Continue up the slab aiming for the base of the big corner crack in the headwall. A final short groove gives access to a massive, gravity defying block. Belay comfortably on top of the block. Bomber hex belay in huge flake behind.
3. 30m. 4b. From the left end of the block move up and round into the corner crack system. Follow this easily until an obvious protruding hand hold on the right wall gives access out onto a small granite ledge on the bottomless rib to the right. Finish up the impeccable slab above in an exciting finish.
1. 60m. 4c. Start as for Mystic and Central grooves. Ascend directly up the middle of the slab. Over bulge and climb the overlap centrally via a small triangular niche. Crux. Continue up the centre of the face on small indentations and pockets to reach the big block belay (Central grooves) at the terrace. A fantastic pitch with the difficult sections protected but the easier ones run out.
2. 30m. 4b. Directly behind the belay across the terrace. Climb a short wall onto a sloping granite shelf. Follow this right to below an obvious small, short corner and climb this to give access onto the upper slab. Continue up the slab aiming for the base of the big corner crack in the headwall. A final short groove gives access to a massive, gravity defying block. Belay comfortably on top of the block. Bomber hex belay in huge flake behind.
3. 30m. 4b. From the left end of the block move up and round into the corner crack system. Follow this easily until an obvious protruding hand hold on the right wall gives access out onto a small granite ledge on the bottomless rib to the right. Finish up the impeccable slab above in an exciting finish.
F.McKie. R.McKie 20/Apr/2024.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| fmck | 21 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 1 can be broken into 2 pitches by traversing left above the overlap to the 1st belay of Mystic. This would require some down climbing and traverse back to regain the line. Pitch 2 & 3 are well protected. In particular pitch 2 has threads and spike runners. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pitch 1 can be broken into 2 pitches by traversing left above the overlap to the 1st belay of Mystic. This would require some down climbing and traverse back to regain the line. Pitch 2 & 3 are well protected. In particular pitch 2 has threads and spike runners. |
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Logged Ascents
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Guidebooks for Caisteal Abhail
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Route of Interest
Dogleg / Blank Linkup
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Rosa Slabs)