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USER ATTENTION
3 March 2023 update: Peregrines and other seabirds are either prospecting or nesting on this crag.
A temporary ban has been put in place by the National Trust covering the area of cliff between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, so includes all of the major route locations up to and including the America Buttress. Once the exact locations of any nests have been identified, restrictions may be lifted.
from 03/03/0023
55m, 3 pitches.
This is a higher parallel line to aprez-vous, finishing up the last part of the Diabolist. from the 1996 guide but without description.
Starts on the edge of the teflon slab. The higher slab above the overhangs crosses to a corner at the base of this is a belay, 60 feet, a set of moves down and around the bulge gains a belay on the Diabolist 40 feet, above the Diabolist corner is followed to near the top a further traverse right crosses the wall to a belay somewhere right of the finish of the Diabolist 80 feet.
Starts on the edge of the teflon slab. The higher slab above the overhangs crosses to a corner at the base of this is a belay, 60 feet, a set of moves down and around the bulge gains a belay on the Diabolist 40 feet, above the Diabolist corner is followed to near the top a further traverse right crosses the wall to a belay somewhere right of the finish of the Diabolist 80 feet.
J Cheshire, k Pike. 1996.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Luke pavey | 31 Oct, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: This route hasn't had a full description added. so the description on UKC is from our ascent as a guide only. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This route hasn't had a full description added. so the description on UKC is from our ascent as a guide only. |
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Route of Interest
Till Dreaming's Done
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Maer Cliff (aka Northcott Mouth))