Restricted Access
The crag is located on open access land so there is a legal right of access for climbing at the crag itself. However access problems have arisen in the past when climbers cut across fields on the quickest approach with does not cross Open Access land, but instead relies upon linear rights of way. This angered the farmer at Conies Farm due to damage to dry stone walls from people climbing over them and his attitude to climbers remains negative. Avoid confrontation with the farmer by accessing the crag via the very slightly longer route through Oxlow Rake rather than through Conies Farm (see 'parking and approach' below for more info).
The crag is characterised by non-eliminate climbing on good rock. Holds are mostly weathered features - slopers, pinches, crimps - a refreshing change from the usual rattly Peak limestone. Great landings - mostly flat and grassy and lots of link ups possible. More details on www.peakbouldering.info (when it is functional). There are problems on either side of those documented in Peak Limestone North, but these are poor quality and best avoided for ecological reasons.
Rockfax Description
From a juggy hole in the break, gain the small perfect crimp with your right and use it to reach jugs at the usual level. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Between Conie Lamprecht and Musselbrook the bulge is fairly blank but for on obvious very nice head-height crimp (if you like crimps). Climb direct to this and use with your RH to gain jugs at the usual level. This is used on problem called Comie Iommi which shares holds with Lamprecht. As Koniwa is independent (next problem notwithstanding) and of a lower grade I’d argue it makes more sense as a line up this bit of rock
Jon Fullwood 2020.
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Red or Dead
Grade: f7A+ ***
(Blackwell Dale)