Rockfax Description
An awesome line up the pillar above the caves, watch for rope drag along the way. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An awesome looking line up the pillar between the caves, then left and final press on all the way up the wall.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Neil Foster | 29 Dec, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: This is a long pitch - probably 55m from the path where you belay. Nonetheless, it is possible on a 70m rope (always put a knot in the end of the rope!) if the belayer scrambles up the initial slab, and the leader stripping the route is prepared to solo down past the first 3 bolts after the belayer has let go of the end of the rope (easy ground). It would be less faff with an 80, obviously. Other tip - keep reaching back and unclipping (and collecting) the previous quickdrawer, each time you clip a bolt on the traverse, and even the first couple on the up section. That way the rope will run much better on the headwall (it’s still heavy!), and you won’t need to carry all the 18+ clips needed. If this all sounds like hard work(!), don’t be put off. It’s a great pitch nonetheless! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This is a long pitch - probably 55m from the path where you belay. Nonetheless, it is possible on a 70m rope (always put a knot in the end of the rope!) if the belayer scrambles up the initial slab, and the leader stripping the route is prepared to solo down past the first 3 bolts after the belayer has let go of the end of the rope (easy ground). It would be less faff with an 80, obviously. Other tip - keep reaching back and unclipping (and collecting) the previous quickdrawer, each time you clip a bolt on the traverse, and even the first couple on the up section. That way the rope will run much better on the headwall (it’s still heavy!), and you won’t need to carry all the 18+ clips needed. If this all sounds like hard work(!), don’t be put off. It’s a great pitch nonetheless! |
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Grade: 7a ***
(Pena Rubia)