UKC

Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

 

Warning

Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

A serious and undergraded pitch not to be confused with The Brothers Direct Step down and right off the right-hand side of the large pinnacle block of Shadrach. Move up to the overhang and (according to the guide)using a slot reach over to gain good (?)holds above. The original ascent did not take the overhang but traversed off rightward.

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

34 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 3
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Groove

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Llech Ddu (Black Slab))

Loading Notifications...