UKC

Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

 

Warning

Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

22m. 'Philtrum' - the shallow groove under everyones nose. Follow The Snake up its slab to the stance before the pod, then go direct up the steep corner to embrace the tooth and up & rightwards through the roof, to a triangular footledge, then climb the delicate overhanging groove (old peg) to the sloping shelf and a final mantle for glory! Maybe a Tremadog notoriously hard E5 6b; brilliant f7b climbing and adequate gear.

Mikey Goldthorp 24/Mar/2011.

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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High E7
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High E6
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High E5
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High 6c
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Route of Interest
Psyche 'n' Burn

Grade: E6 6c ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))

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