Restricted Access
A roadside trad climbing venue with some quite adventurous routes, but its convenient roadside location makes a very useful venue for mid-Wales climbers. The crag is divided into three distinct buttresses - Eastern Face, Central Buttress and the Bastion.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The Eastern Face only is restricted due to nesting choughs, peregrines and cormorants. The crag is also located in a Special Protection Area for its avian assemblage. Climbers are also asked to avoid climbing here near to dusk as it's an important roosting site for choughs.
The routes on the Eastern Face are heavily vegetated and contain birds for most of the year and is probably best avoided altogether! Restrction here is from March 1st until July 31st inclusive.
Central Buttress - No restriction for 2018
The main face - The Bastion is unaffected by the seasonal restriction.
Start at the toe of the buttress and move steeply up dark rock, on sharp holds to a finger crack where the angle eases. A perfect pocket on your left takes 4 fingers or you could fill it with a cam. Now move right around the awkward bulge below the slab, the feet are solid but the crimps feel insecure - aim for the dubious looking spike, it sounds hollow but seems solid enough. Finish directly up the rock pillar in a stunning position with positive holds but poor protection to an airy topout.
Matt Rees 01/Aug/2022.
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Logged Ascents
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Flake Crack Into Inspiration
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Carreg y Foel Gron)