38m, 3 pitches.
A classic, natural trad line with contrasting pitches to the right of Deep Impact.
1) 5a, 8m. From a cleaned ledge directly below the line, climb rightwards round the initial bulges then up to belay at the foot of the slabby corner.
2) 6a, 15m. Ascend the corner with increasing difficulty to a footledge and crucial rock 1 placement below a smooth section. Nifty footwork or a massive reach is needed to gain good holds and the grass ledge above and a two-bolt belay.
3) 6a,15m. Reach for the foot of the undercut rib and pull into the base of the bomb bay chimney. Climb steeply up the thin crack, or bridging for the tall, then swing onto a ledge above. Surmount the overhang strenuously, then move left to the top of the corner. Pull over the final bulge to a two-bolt belay. Abseil off.
1) 5a, 8m. From a cleaned ledge directly below the line, climb rightwards round the initial bulges then up to belay at the foot of the slabby corner.
2) 6a, 15m. Ascend the corner with increasing difficulty to a footledge and crucial rock 1 placement below a smooth section. Nifty footwork or a massive reach is needed to gain good holds and the grass ledge above and a two-bolt belay.
3) 6a,15m. Reach for the foot of the undercut rib and pull into the base of the bomb bay chimney. Climb steeply up the thin crack, or bridging for the tall, then swing onto a ledge above. Surmount the overhang strenuously, then move left to the top of the corner. Pull over the final bulge to a two-bolt belay. Abseil off.
FA. M.Bailey, A.Leary 10/Aug/2017.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Simon King | 21 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: WARNING! In mid-June 2023 two shoe-box sized blocks came off pitch 3. It appears that they were partly holding in place a 1m square block (weight around 2 tons). The block has deep cracks on three sides (and chalk on the top!) and its base appears to be resting on a smooth slab set at an angle of around 30 degrees. This type of micro-dioritic rock has been known to sheer off suddenly in large blocks, sometimes with catastrophic consequences. The first two pitches seem stable at present but it may be unwise to attempt an ascent. The recent hot weather, interspersed with heavy showers, may lead to general weakening of many types of rock so please be aware. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: WARNING! In mid-June 2023 two shoe-box sized blocks came off pitch 3. It appears that they were partly holding in place a 1m square block (weight around 2 tons). The block has deep cracks on three sides (and chalk on the top!) and its base appears to be resting on a smooth slab set at an angle of around 30 degrees. This type of micro-dioritic rock has been known to sheer off suddenly in large blocks, sometimes with catastrophic consequences. The first two pitches seem stable at present but it may be unwise to attempt an ascent. The recent hot weather, interspersed with heavy showers, may lead to general weakening of many types of rock so please be aware. |
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Craig y Forwyn)