100m, 3 pitches.
This route follows the left corner of the wide stepped square-cut groove right of
Sun Rock Blues. Moon Ice Jazz follows a line that approximates the right-hand
corner of this feature. The climb has tenuous technical sections and limited
protection in places but follows a natural line with some interesting rock. Start at
the off width crack to the left of the overhanging overlap at the foot of the feature
and about 15m up from the start of Sun Rock Blues.
1. 35m Climb this with some difficulty using a crack on the left wall. Break into
the off-width and gain the top of the overlap. Move up to the next overlap and
cross this. Move right to overcome a second smaller overlap on good ice. Move
diagonally left to enter the corner. Follow the corner-line until forced right
slightly before breaking back left using icy/vegetated grooves. Belay in a corner
with a protective roof beside a large cracked block.
2. 30m Step up left onto the cracked block, then step rightwards over it and
follow the groove until a ledge is reached which leads left onto Sun Rock Blues.
Move up slightly rightwards to rejoin the groove line. Climb up a snow slope to
belay just above an obvious flake on a ledge below the final corner pitch. The
final pitch can be escaped by moving left onto Sun Rock Blues at this point.
3. 35m Move easily up into the base of an overhanging groove and break out
right onto a slabby ramp. Move up and right into a left-facing corner system until
below an obvious overlap. Follow the corner by climbing over the bulge and
continue to a second icier bulge. Climb this to a ledge system which leads
leftwards to the top belay at the end of the difficulties on Sun Rock Blues. Climb
one final undercut bulge before moving up and right to a large isolated boulder.
Follow easy mixed ground for 60m to the plateau.
Sun Rock Blues. Moon Ice Jazz follows a line that approximates the right-hand
corner of this feature. The climb has tenuous technical sections and limited
protection in places but follows a natural line with some interesting rock. Start at
the off width crack to the left of the overhanging overlap at the foot of the feature
and about 15m up from the start of Sun Rock Blues.
1. 35m Climb this with some difficulty using a crack on the left wall. Break into
the off-width and gain the top of the overlap. Move up to the next overlap and
cross this. Move right to overcome a second smaller overlap on good ice. Move
diagonally left to enter the corner. Follow the corner-line until forced right
slightly before breaking back left using icy/vegetated grooves. Belay in a corner
with a protective roof beside a large cracked block.
2. 30m Step up left onto the cracked block, then step rightwards over it and
follow the groove until a ledge is reached which leads left onto Sun Rock Blues.
Move up slightly rightwards to rejoin the groove line. Climb up a snow slope to
belay just above an obvious flake on a ledge below the final corner pitch. The
final pitch can be escaped by moving left onto Sun Rock Blues at this point.
3. 35m Move easily up into the base of an overhanging groove and break out
right onto a slabby ramp. Move up and right into a left-facing corner system until
below an obvious overlap. Follow the corner by climbing over the bulge and
continue to a second icier bulge. Climb this to a ledge system which leads
leftwards to the top belay at the end of the difficulties on Sun Rock Blues. Climb
one final undercut bulge before moving up and right to a large isolated boulder.
Follow easy mixed ground for 60m to the plateau.
Brian Duthie, Forest Templeton 02/Feb/2013.
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