UKC

SnS, 5.8, 18 m (FA Shaun Parent, S???). Look for teenage love graffiti at the top of the cliff. Rappel down to a two-bolt anchor at a small triangular ledge at the bottom/right end of vague buttress. From this stance make an awkward initial move (protected by bolt) up a crack at the right end of a block/bulge, then traverse left along a crack (past three bolts) to a small right facing corner/crack (bolt). Two vari-ations are possible from this point:
1) either diagonal up and slightly left following the crack over a small roof (gear), then step further left and exit up a crack to a ledge (5.7?).
2) or go up and slightly right and get over the roof below a very thin crack (bolt) and then straight up to the ledge (5.9/5.10?).
From the ledge it is possible to exit either left or right over easier ground; or sur-mount the final 3-4 m vertical step above (no pro; 5.8/5.9) to a 2-bolt anchor. DD

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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