UKC

Restricted Access

There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.

In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act),  some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.

 

Click here for RAD Access Notes
Last update: 05/06/2018  

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[Unknown climb not listed on UKC or in guidebook - first ascent unknown]. The first climb you come to on the Terrace. To the right of The Gnarly SPAR Kid. 2 bolts to the lower off on The Gnarly SPAR Kid. Nice layback move past first bolt. Middle section can be protected with a poor small nut in expanding crack. Temporary name taken from graffiti at base of route: 'Rocky'. Not sure about grade - easier than its neighbour.

Feedback

User Date Notes
string arms 16 Feb Show βeta
βeta: This is my route. I was meaning to bolt the line to the right but realised after the first bolt that I was in the wrong place! I was so disgusted with myself that I never bothered to write it up. It felt pretty crap too which didn’t help matters either. I never returned. I also managed to top rope what soon after became to be mosquito on sight and was going to return to bolt it but Callum soloed it in the meantime! Ha ha
Show beta
βeta: This is my route. I was meaning to bolt the line to the right but realised after the first bolt that I was in the wrong place! I was so disgusted with myself that I never bothered to write it up. It felt pretty crap too which didn’t help matters either. I never returned. I also managed to top rope what soon after became to be mosquito on sight and was going to return to bolt it but Callum soloed it in the meantime! Ha ha

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
North Wales Climbs Cover
North Wales Climbs (2023)
Rockfax
By Mark Reeves, Mark Glaister
Dry Tooling Great Britain Cover
Dry Tooling Great Britain (2023)
Oxford Alpine Club
By Lina Arthur
Dry-Tooling Great Britain Cover
Dry-Tooling Great Britain (2023)
Oxford Alpine Club
By Lina Arthur
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Route of Interest
Ieuan sending hard on Zeitgeist
Zeitgeist

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Carreg Bengam Bach)

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