10 pitches.
This is a well bolted alpine sport route. Some medium cams could be useful.
Approach from Passo Giau towards Ra Gusela, the promenent yellow tower. At the path to the Ra Gusela Via Ferrata, turn off the path and then walk across the meadows directly towards the base of the yellow tower. A grassy ledge is gained by climbing easy ground following a rather old looking rope. Start in a corner to the left of the tower.
1) 6a climb the right wall of the corner, 3 bolts before joining the corner just before a steepening. The bulge is turned with some difficulty (extra cams might be welcome here) before reaching a bolt belay on the right.
2) 5c Continue up the crack system for a few metres before reaching a ledge where you climb right around a spur to reach a peg and bolt belay beneath a steep, compact yellow wall.
3) 6c+, 6c A0 climb right across a steep wall using pockets and small edges before climbing vertically up a shallow crack, with extra holds on either side to help. Slings are in place to help should you need it.
4) 6a climb up to a steep bulge and crack. A peg protects a stiff move to pull through the bulge before continuing up the crack to some bolts.
5) 5c a fantastic pitch climbing incredibly featured rock above the void. Easy but entertaining.
6) 5a continue up the wall with scant protection (threads and a couple of bolts, extra thread may be possible) to reach a double bolt. Either belay here on the edge of the arete or continue to a large boulder with bolts on a large sloping ledge.
7) move the belay by traversing the ledge to reach the base of a yellow pillar.
8) 6a/+ a long and continuously interesting pitch which climbs slabby ground before reaching a tricky vertical section. Some loose rock higher on the pitch.
9) 5c climb up to an obvious corner and thrutch up wide cracks to reach a large ledge and a sling/gear belay.
10) easy ground to the top of the pillar.
Now scramble up to the summit of Ra Gusela
Return to the base either down the Via Ferrata or by walking to the summit of Nuvolau and then down to passo Averau and back to passo Giau via a marked path.
Approach from Passo Giau towards Ra Gusela, the promenent yellow tower. At the path to the Ra Gusela Via Ferrata, turn off the path and then walk across the meadows directly towards the base of the yellow tower. A grassy ledge is gained by climbing easy ground following a rather old looking rope. Start in a corner to the left of the tower.
1) 6a climb the right wall of the corner, 3 bolts before joining the corner just before a steepening. The bulge is turned with some difficulty (extra cams might be welcome here) before reaching a bolt belay on the right.
2) 5c Continue up the crack system for a few metres before reaching a ledge where you climb right around a spur to reach a peg and bolt belay beneath a steep, compact yellow wall.
3) 6c+, 6c A0 climb right across a steep wall using pockets and small edges before climbing vertically up a shallow crack, with extra holds on either side to help. Slings are in place to help should you need it.
4) 6a climb up to a steep bulge and crack. A peg protects a stiff move to pull through the bulge before continuing up the crack to some bolts.
5) 5c a fantastic pitch climbing incredibly featured rock above the void. Easy but entertaining.
6) 5a continue up the wall with scant protection (threads and a couple of bolts, extra thread may be possible) to reach a double bolt. Either belay here on the edge of the arete or continue to a large boulder with bolts on a large sloping ledge.
7) move the belay by traversing the ledge to reach the base of a yellow pillar.
8) 6a/+ a long and continuously interesting pitch which climbs slabby ground before reaching a tricky vertical section. Some loose rock higher on the pitch.
9) 5c climb up to an obvious corner and thrutch up wide cracks to reach a large ledge and a sling/gear belay.
10) easy ground to the top of the pillar.
Now scramble up to the summit of Ra Gusela
Return to the base either down the Via Ferrata or by walking to the summit of Nuvolau and then down to passo Averau and back to passo Giau via a marked path.
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Route of Interest
Trephor Slab
Grade: 6c+ ***
(Cinque Torri)