UKC

8m. Left wall of the bay to the left of In Your Mind (Desperate Bay). In the center of this wall is a large Africa shaped flake. This route climbs the flake crack on the left side of this feature. Enter the awkward shallow R facing groove direct without using the crack just right and follow this to the base of the L slanting flake then follow the flake and finish as Curly Bill. It is probably best to avoid the friable part of the flake where it doglegs as this seemed hollow and creaky. Start to top of shield is good boulder problem at UK5b (F5). An excellent alternative start is to climb the center of the solid shield of rock 1m left of the starting groove to join the flake at half height (also a good F5 boulder problem).

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Guidebooks for Halton Heights

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Route of Interest
Beldin

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Slipstones)

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