Rockfax Description
A massive and rewarding day out which is more of an alpine excursion than a cragging route, despite the easy access. A big E2 in UK grade. The crux pitch is simply mind blowing.
1) 3c, 28m. Move diagonally up and left to reach a right-trending rampline. Climb this to belay below a long corner by a tree.
2) 5c, 35m. Climb the crack on the right of the corner until you can regain the corner. Follow it past some vegetation to bridge up to a single bolt and wire belay on a small ledge.
3) 6a, 30m. Carry on up the corner (3 pegs) with a hard move to reach a 2-bolt belay.
4) 4c, 30m. Go up and left aiming for a small shoulder below and left of prominent right-facing corner. Sustained.
5) 5b, 25m. Now the rock and climbing improve. Traverse right into the corner and climb it with sustained interest on sharp juggy solution pockets to a bulge. Pass this to a bolted belay just under the roof. Belay or link the next pitch with some careful rope work.
6) 4c, 13m. Move down slightly and go right to avoid the roof. Climb a crack to a bolted belay.
7) 6a+, 20m. One of the most amazing pitches you will ever climb. Place a good wire and move up and left to a bolt that is hard to see from below. Move up slightly and then make a phenomenal move around the arete in an outrageously exposed position to better holds and an old thread. Move up slightly easier ground to clip a peg below another steepening. Commit to the bulge to reach massive holds. Continue on up to peg and wire belay.
8) 5b, 30m. Climb up the easier ground aiming for a innocuous looking groove above which turns out to be longer and more sustained than it first appears. Belay on a small ledge at its top.
9) 4c, 20m. Climb the front face of the narrowing pillar on cracks and some chicken heads to reach a small loose ridge leading to a col. Belay on a poor spike and small cams.
10) 4a, 25m. The climbing turns more alpine with loose rock to deal with. Climb straight up on the right side of the pillar for 15m to where the rock improves. Move left round the arete and gain a small ledge by a tree on the left below a hand crack. Belay in the crack off cams and a large wire.
11) 5a, 60m. Jam up the hand crack. Continue up the groove, making a step right after 20m. Kep heading up past possible belays. Eventually there is a good spike and wire on easy terrain after 60m.
Descent - Where you can start the epic walk off.
FA Javier Saenz, Angel Bengoechea 14.5.1995 © Rockfax

Feedback Always Hide βeta