Access Banned
The landowner has informed the BMC that they do not permit climbing on the sections of crag which are not mapped as open access (i.e. the whole crag with the exception of the West Crag). The area contains well used public footpaths (which pass through the crags), but deer stalking takes place between November and March. If you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it woud be wise to do so. Please report any access difficulties to the BMC.
6m.
Not sure if this has been done before, but it's a logical line with the added bonus of offering excellent climbing with a new set of moves for those who enjoy Ames Low and it's variations. Sit start on the slanting rail at the right hand end of the wall. Reach up to the sloping ledge and Ame (ahem)traverse leftwards and upwards for the 'horn' hold on the Right Flake BUT hands must stay on or above the right slanting vein until the span move to the boss just below the horn. Traverse across to and finish up The Flakes.
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Route of Interest
Beware the Fascist Direct
Grade: f7A+ ***
(Huntsham Crags)