Access Banned
The landowner has informed the BMC that they do not permit climbing on the sections of crag which are not mapped as open access (i.e. the whole crag with the exception of the West Crag). The area contains well used public footpaths (which pass through the crags), but deer stalking takes place between November and March. If you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it woud be wise to do so. Please report any access difficulties to the BMC.
4m.
Elliot told me about this problem, so I'll put him down as the first ascensionist. From the 'Under the Stars...' foot jam start and rail, go straight up the wall without using the crack (other than for feet to start) or hand holds on the left arete. Finish in a round pocket before the wall kicks back. Definitely worthwhile. Not sure about the grade but definitely harder than 'Under the Stars...'
Elliot Boyd.
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Route of Interest
Ames Games/Golden Bicep - Sit Start
Grade: f6C+ ***
(Huntsham Crags)