UKC

Restricted Access

Langcliffe is regularly patrolled by YDNPA wardens and conservation volunteers. The quarry area is also designated as a Scheduled Monument under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Areas Act 1979 and English Heritage consider that any further drilling to place bolts may constitute a criminal offence unless consent is gained via them from the Secretary of State.

Skyline Buttress is in private ownership and no formal access agreement is in place. Negotiations have failed to resolve the issue with the landowner of this buttress, who has occasionally asked climbers to leave. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

2024 Update - Both Peregrines and Ravens have been observed at the crag. It's not certain yet whether they are nesting. Restrictions will remain in place for now.

 

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Last update: 16/04/2024  

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20m. The center of the solid wall 2m right of Christmas Crack. Start 1m left of the leftmost of a series of broken and loose grooves at a solid shallow right facing corner/groove. Climb the groove to a sloping ledge, move slightly L and climb the center of the solid wall using a blind flake and thin cracks finishing up the obvious thin crack and final groove in the center of the wall to the left of a prominent square block at the top of the wall. The exit is solid but slopes. The bottom half of the route is unprotected and the grade assumes the use of a large cam side runner at the base of the corner crack of Christmas Crack. An easier version escapes right from the sloping ledge at half height into the solid upper groove of at the right edge of this wall at VS 4c (the bottom part of this groove is dangerously loose).

Malcolm Townsley 24/Apr/2022.

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Guidebooks for Langcliffe Quarry

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Northern Rock Cover
Northern Rock (2022)
Wired Guides
By YMC, NMC, Red Rose Rock, CMC
Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire Cover
Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire (2015)
Rockfax
By Mark Glaister
Guidebook correction for this climb
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Route of Interest
Beldin

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Slipstones)

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