Rockfax Description
If the 6b puts you off there is a 5b trad start which keeps the route at about UK HVS climbing. A standard trad rack for sea cliff climbing is required. Start by scrambling up to the first belay about 5m up the ridge.
1) 5b, 10m. Where the bolts head right, continue straight up the rib to reach a small ledge system 15m higher. Traverse this right to below a groove that leads up to the main ridge, past an iron spike joining the main route on P3. Clip a bolt and continue on to the belay.
2) 4c, 50m. As for the main route P4 to the belay in a niche.
Escape is possible here leftwards although the paths are vague. You can continue up P5 to P7 of the main route but this includes a slightly harder 5c pitch. © Rockfax
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