Restricted Access
Restrictions apply from 1 March - 25 June.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Crescent Buttress, Upper and Lower Craig Pen Gogarth, St. Tudno's Lower are subject to seasonal restrictions.
Observatory Buttress and Central Buttress are not subject to any seasonal restrictions.
35m.
Euclidean Space
Start a few meters left of Motion in the Ocean/3rd Dimension. Use a clip stick to clip high first bolt over the first big roof. There’s a huge hovering grand piano sized flake under this roof made of poorer rock (it’s a bit of a grim grovel, about 6c ish and a bit risky for your belayer) so I’d hugely recommend just hoisting yourself up to the first bolt then climbing from there. What follows is 30+ metres of huge jugs on great rock. Tricky bit in the soaring groove near the end. Very Pembroke in style apart from it has 12 bolts to a LO. 70m rope minimum. Really fun exposed pitch, best enjoyed on a sunny evening or a fresh low humidity day. Best to use 60cm slings on first 3 bolts to reduce rope drag.
Tim and Fraser, 03/09/23
Start a few meters left of Motion in the Ocean/3rd Dimension. Use a clip stick to clip high first bolt over the first big roof. There’s a huge hovering grand piano sized flake under this roof made of poorer rock (it’s a bit of a grim grovel, about 6c ish and a bit risky for your belayer) so I’d hugely recommend just hoisting yourself up to the first bolt then climbing from there. What follows is 30+ metres of huge jugs on great rock. Tricky bit in the soaring groove near the end. Very Pembroke in style apart from it has 12 bolts to a LO. 70m rope minimum. Really fun exposed pitch, best enjoyed on a sunny evening or a fresh low humidity day. Best to use 60cm slings on first 3 bolts to reduce rope drag.
Tim and Fraser, 03/09/23
Tim Neill and Fraser Ball 02/Sep/2023.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dan Hale | 14 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: No significant issues with rope drag on this. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: No significant issues with rope drag on this. |
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Route of Interest
Rib Rider
Grade: 6b S0 ***
(Lighthouse Crags)