All bolts on the East Face and the final pitch of Gweilo were chopped during protest banner removal in 2020.
Hong Kong Rock Description
70m. Pause for thought in the knowledge this was the original line of the crag climbed without bolts way back in 1958. The modern version starts from the belay at the end of the second pitch of Gweilo and was retro-bolted during the 1990s.
1) 5a - 22m - 7 Bolts. Climb the first pitch of Gweilo.
2) 6a+ - 12m - 8 Bolts. Climb the right-hand corner crack directly above the belay as for Gweilo. The original second pitch climbed the traditionally protected left corner of the bay.
3) 6b+ - 10m - 9 Bolts. Climb directly above the belay with crux moves past the second bolt to a cramped rest. Pull over a small block roof and finish easily above, stepping right onto a ledge and bolt belay.
4) 6a+ - 11m - 7 Bolts. Step left from the belay and use the tree to become established on the slab bordering the right side of the lion's head. Tackle the short wall above to a double-bolt belay. © Hong Kong Rock
UKC Logbook Description
This was the original line of the crag climbed without bolts way back in 1958. The modern version starts from the belay at the end of the second pitch of Gweilo and was retro-bolted during the 1990s.
P1 F5
P2 F6a+
P3 F6b+
P4 F6a+
J.Ward, J.Bunnell 06/Apr/1958.
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Grade: 6b ***
(Lingnan Slabs)