UKC

35m. This route is found 7 metres right of Game On, below a towering pillar, which it climbs.
Start on the right side of a dark cleft capped by a small overhang at 6 metres.
Gain the initial crack following it for 3 metres to an overlap, then make some reachy moves round this, laybacking up the rib to the right until a big move back left allows the top of the small overhang to be gained.
Steep moves now to reach an undercut prow below the stratigraphic column and groove.
Launching directly up the overhanging groove climb this for 5 metres (crux) moving out right onto the pillar which is climbed boldly on spaced holds to gain a grassy niche at it’s top.
Follow the slopes above the niche for about 10 metres to belay well back at the base of the upper cliff.

Note: It would be worthwhile leaving a 10 metre rope from the upper cliff to the grassy niche at the top of the pillar for protection on the grass slope.

R Neath, S Quinton 31/Aug/2022.

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Guidebooks for Lydstep Cavern Bay

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Route of Interest
Zero She Flies

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Raming Hole Area)

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