The large open book corner easily visible from the track below.
Access. The same as for “Twins” except at the top of the first fixed rope move back right onto the
grassy ledge. Traverse right, back around the arete to the base of the large corner crack.
Pitch 1 (18) 25m
Once at the base it’s pretty hard to get lost, just climb straight up the corner, bridging jamming
and lay-backing. (Pro; W, CD, DBC belay)
Cliff Ellery, Bryce Martin & Dave Garrity Jan/93
Pitch 2(15) 20m
From the belay bridge up the chimney just to the left of the belay , 2 bolts runners, then climb
the twin cracks above exiting to the left of the large flax bush. Belay off natural gear up behind
the flax bush. (Pro; 2 bolts W, CD) From here you can scramble up the grass bank to the top off
the crag, best to stay roped in.
Cliff Ellery & Mike Camilleri Jan/97
Access. The same as for “Twins” except at the top of the first fixed rope move back right onto the
grassy ledge. Traverse right, back around the arete to the base of the large corner crack.
Pitch 1 (18) 25m
Once at the base it’s pretty hard to get lost, just climb straight up the corner, bridging jamming
and lay-backing. (Pro; W, CD, DBC belay)
Cliff Ellery, Bryce Martin & Dave Garrity Jan/93
Pitch 2(15) 20m
From the belay bridge up the chimney just to the left of the belay , 2 bolts runners, then climb
the twin cracks above exiting to the left of the large flax bush. Belay off natural gear up behind
the flax bush. (Pro; 2 bolts W, CD) From here you can scramble up the grass bank to the top off
the crag, best to stay roped in.
Cliff Ellery & Mike Camilleri Jan/97
See description 1997.
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Route of Interest
Millennium Madness
Grade: 18 ***
(Waipapa)