UKC

333m, 8 pitches. The Route is next to Father Time and the Border Country. Just left of the first anchor heading into the Gunsight Gully there is a chossy pedestal. The route heads up this and proceeds to wander. The route is given an R in Reid's Guidebook, and route finding can be interesting.
P1. Either climb directly up about 15 meters right of the pedestal aiming for the top of it through some ill protected 5.8 slab or move left and onto the pedestal and then move right to the corner. Climb until you run out of rope.
P2. (5.8) Move right into two right trending cracks, move between them as needed and then move left onto a narrow belay stance.
P3. Moving left up flakes, traverse below a large block until you reach an offwidth. Move up it and belay at the top.
P4. Delicate slab moves onto a left facing corner which you surmount and then up.
P5. Exposed traverse into a series of lie backs and jams. Hanging belay below the ledge with the looks blocks.
P6. Head right and up through the crux of the route from a wobbly flake and then reach around the corner into a crack and head straight up through delicate unprotected slab climbing until you reach an obvious poor belay station in a section of largely loose and broken orange rock.
P7-8 Just keep heading right then up through 5.2-5.3 territory, route ends at a forested ledge. Descent is a long walk right around Cathedral until you descend a poorly marked climbers trail and scrambling/abbing down Gunsight. (Generally fixed lines)

Some poor quality rock on the route and rockfall at the bottom, but overall it's a great day out. Just watch your partner's head.

Frank Sacherer and Mark Powell Jun/1964.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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Route of Interest
Isostacy

Grade: 5.8 ***
(Dozier Dome)

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