100m, 3 pitches.
Another great route on the South Pillar, essentially climbing the crest of the pillar/prow.
Start from the bottom of Mayday, heading left to where the South Pillar forms a prow/arête and changes direction.
1) 5a, 25m. Traverse the slab leftwards toward the arête. A hanging groove appears as you look around the arête, steepening through a cracked bulge, with good gear and holds. Belay ABOVE and LEFT of the Mayday ledge.
2) 4c, 40m. Climb the bulging wall on good holds passing a distinctive yellow open book corner to the large ledge and big open corner of Stugeron.
3) 5b, 35m. Climb steeply up the wall left of the corner, finishing up a smaller quartzy corner.
Start from the bottom of Mayday, heading left to where the South Pillar forms a prow/arête and changes direction.
1) 5a, 25m. Traverse the slab leftwards toward the arête. A hanging groove appears as you look around the arête, steepening through a cracked bulge, with good gear and holds. Belay ABOVE and LEFT of the Mayday ledge.
2) 4c, 40m. Climb the bulging wall on good holds passing a distinctive yellow open book corner to the large ledge and big open corner of Stugeron.
3) 5b, 35m. Climb steeply up the wall left of the corner, finishing up a smaller quartzy corner.
FA. Andy Nelson, Brian Bathurst 27/May/2018.
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