Climbs 19
Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude 16m a.s.l
Faces NE
Dave enjoying a fine coast morning © Neil Morrison
The deep narrow inlet cutting into the Bettridge Park is Green Slough. South again is a more open bay with high but broken cliffs along its back wall. These prove disappointing however at the south east tip of the bay is a short but very steep north facing wall of generally good rock. Most of the wall is directly above deep water at any tide and can be conveniently accessed via an easy ramp which descends in from the east. This ramp would provide a comfortable belay for most of the routes. The routes where all DWS on their first ascents however most of the routes are very well protected and might actually be more enjoyable lead so are graded accordingly.
The easiest and best approach on first acquaintance is to contour the large bay from the north at low tide. Park at the Bettridge centre car park, walk to the south east corner of the park and follow the fence east alongside a small burn and down the side of the woods (as for Green slough). Then descend the grass slope into the north side of the bay. A quicker approach and at high tide is to locate a fisherman’s trail which drops down a steep grass slop to gain a narrow rock ledge which descends to platforms above and to the south of the cliff. This however is very hard to locate especially in summer when the grass is long. It is much easier to find as a way out. To find it on the approach head south in the field above the bay as for John heugh. Cross the fence and head out onto the headland just north of John heugh (you can clearly see John heugh to the south) skirting the wind bushes by staying close to the edge. The path is located opposite the small rocky island (May Rock) and starts down a vague grass ridge
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